CCV Mod

OK I'll try again. While my last post was either very interesting or pathetic (I'm not sure), it didn't ackomplish what I had hoped.
Could some that has installed a "CCV filter", describe it to me or post a picture. Thanks

There is a post created by OldNavy that has a picture. There is also a post by GeWilli that has a picture of another mod. (Search for Eclipse will help.) The other mod is elephant hose which I don't like personally.

You can do a search on that. I am at work and I don't have time to find it for you.

Try Ricks ccv mod I did it and I love it. I get about a half a cup of oil, water, and black sludge out of it every 5000 miles. Mine looks a bit different I used different pieces for it. It just fits together so I don't have to unscrew it. I use four copper scrubbies, and one large stainless steel scrubbie. It took an afternoon to make. I painted it black so that took a bit longer.
I don't have any picks of mine because I don't have a digital camera yet.

Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for!

DLV,

My original thread on my Eclipse CCV filter installation is lost, but here is an update I did on it which includes a picture. This thread also has the discussion of Old Navy's new CCV filter that replaces the CCV "hockey puck" valve.

Hope this helps.

-Mel

Hey gang, I found this 'aftermarket' pCV filter that might work. Not sure if it can handle the CCV volume, but maybe it can spur some thought.

http://vamp.darkravers.net/VampsCarCheapOilCatchCan.cfm?Size=Full

I've been working on CCV mod myself, and was wondering if anyone here knows what the flow rates are.

Heres my CCV mod. It cost me less than $5 and works with gravity. I emptied about half a shot glass out on my last oil change.

Hmmmmm, let's rate wingnut's CCV mod:

1. Cost Effective (i.e., cheap) --> Oh Yeah!!
2. Works --> 1/2 a shot captured in 10K isn't bad. In fact, 1/2 a shot isn't bad anytime!!
3. Stock look --> Fits under cover real well.
4. Immune to cold --> should be totally immune.
5. Retains stock crank pressure regulation --> Yes.
6. Impress your girlfriend --> definitely!!

Now all you need is some red hose. Just think what a 45 degree "T" would do?

What's in there besides hoses and a "T"? any scrubby pads or whatnot? How do you close the open end of the system?

There are no scrub pads or filters inside the tubes. Gravity forces most of the oil to settle at the bottom, allowing the air pressure to remain in a closed system. I think a filter would be too restrictive to the air flow. I'm sure some oil vapor still goes through, but only a small percentage of what did. The bottom 4" of hose has a cap to catch the oil. Total parts were a 3' length of hose, a cap & a 'T' all from Home Depot. Gotta love shopping for auto mods at a hardware store

I used the very same hose to make my (now departed) CCV catchcan. Was the stuff it caught mostly oil? Mine was catching mostly water, which is one reason I ditched it.

This mod takes the cake, Wingnut. Simple, cheap, effective. This is the one that is going onto my engine. Perhaps you can provide some details on the tubing you selected (type, size, etc.).

And yes, buying parts at Home Cheap-o to fix my car is awesome!

Been testing the little CCV filter below and have made some mods to the device and we are in the process of mfg some test units for others to test, including a member who will do a 4000 mile trip with one next month.


These will be billet aluminum and will be anodized. They will fit under the engine cover and be easy to change the filter in. No draining of oil required, as they will drain excess oil back to valve cover as OEM CCV does. Part of the testing is to find how often filters will need to be changed, what is best filter and will it be worth the money it will cost to buy when it goes on the market. Our target cost is $100-$125 for finished product that is both functional and nice looking that eliminates all the extra hoses.

TTT - Hey, Old Navy - any progress on this filter??? I'd love to have one if your pricing holds!

Patrick

For those of you interested in the economical CCV mod, I did one for a member today and took some pictures.

Here is the stock setup:


Here are the parts required:
1 - 3/4" 'T'
1 - 3/4" End cap
4 - Feet of 3/4" tubing (some places you can buy by the foot, but we had to get a 10' roll)


Cut the parts to length:


Using a heat gun, soften the tubing so it goes around the fittings more easily:


And finally assemble the pices & install so it looks something like this:

Total cost = $10
Total time to complete about 20min.
Amount of oil I emptied out of my mod this week = 1 teaspoon


EDIT:

An addition I made to my CCV system was to add an inline fuel filter to trap any oil that made it past the gravity trap. The fuel filter works, but I am worried about the paper element becoming oil soaked & restricting the airflow. I will monitor it & report back test results. MRIBOB recently found an inline oil/water separator used for air tools that I tested. I replaced my fuel filter with it, but it became very restricted within 1 week. So I have since removed it and gone back to the fuel filter. Here is the new setup with the fuel filter. Notice how clean the hose is post filter:

Notice the condensation accumulation:


Thanks to VikF for the filter idea & to MRIBOB for the separator idea. Even though the separator didn't work, it is great that we are trying out new things. Good work guys.

Here is the link to MRIBOB's seperator idea. Sorry it didn't work out, but the only way we can find new ways to do things is to try them.

I've been running a CCV mod similar to Wingnuts for about a year and a half/ 50,000 miles. I have the T in front of the oil filter with the 3rd leg dangling just above the belly pan.

No Problems! Every oil change I drain out the goo and clean the hoses. Every time the return hose is clean (a q-tip stays clean) I also pulled to lower hose from my intercooler to see what it was like and there was not residue.

Only comment is that I do drive about 1 hour each way to and from work. If you have a short commute, freezing in the winter might be a concern.

Good Luck!

Only comment is that I do drive about 1 hour each way to and from work. If you have a short commute, freezing in the winter might be a concern.

Click to expand...

If you keep the hoses short enough to be kept under the cover & close to the engine, there is little chance of freezing. Plus the system is closed, so no cold air can cet into it unlike the elephant hose system where the end of the hose is hanging under the car where it is easily affected by the elements.

GW, How much oil are you able to drain out of your setup? Like I mentioned above, I get about 1 teaspoon a week with almost 500 miles of spirited drivng.

It's hard to say how much I get out. I never really measured it. I guess I am getting about 2 ounces every 10,000 miles/ 3 months.

I usually take the whole thing off and flush it out with mineral spirits followed by soem degreaser.

With the longer hose I always have a clean return line.

Wingnut - How do you keep the return hose off the top of the engine block? Or do you even bother? I used the same kind of hose (just did the mod tonight) and put a plastic/rubber riser where the hose comes the closest to the block. I'm a little concerned the vinyl hose would not deal with the heat very well... The rest of it I routed such that it touches nothing or simply rests against another piece of plastic - and used a ziptie to keep it all in place.

I almost got the rubber heater hose from Home Depot instead, but I liked the idea of the clear hose to see how dirty things get!!!

BTW - How the heck do you get this stuff back off to clean/empty?!?! Once I got it together it is a serious b!tch to get off! Do you just take it all off (puck 'n all) from the block to the intake before trying to pull the short catch hose off?

Thanks for the good idea!
Cheers,
Brian

A word of caution to those installing CCV filters (which I'm a big fan of) Exercise caution when routing whatever hoses you might use so that they are not being pressed up against the high pressure fuel lines when you put the engine cover back in place. With a little forethought, this can be easily avoided as can any damage to the fuel lines. I caught my error in time when I noticed that one of my lines had been polished by the return line. Just my .02. -mickkirk

I'm new and still climbing up a steep long learning curve [requires a lot of torque] but I thought the reason one does the EGR mod was to eliminate the problem that the CCV filters seems to address.

Are both the EGR and CCV mods necessary or redundant?

thx and for all you guys do

dk

Well, I guess it 'depends'.

If you define 'problem' as the intake getting plugged with oil+soot between the EGR and the engine, then the EGR mod alone will solve that 'problem'.

However, if you define 'problem' to be this PLUS oil vapors coating the intercooler and MAF, then the EGR mod will not solve this 'problem'.

Hence, IMHO, the primary concern is the CCV vapors, not EGR.

I don't think you can eliminate the soot in the intake completely with EGR mod, you just reduce it is all that can be done.

CCV filter will do away with the oiled intake and problems created by that.

Below are pictures of one filter type I've been testing with the help of about 25 members here at Fred's. The 2 pictures are of filter from my NB with 2,200 miles of high speed driving trip to Impex GTG last month. 1050 miles in 14.5 hours on return trip and it was a blast.

I saw a members 2001 Golf with the "Elephant" type CCV mod but he has that "Sensor" or Bentleys calls it a PCV heater in the big chamber portion of his intake.

My 2003 Jetta has that HEATER SENSOR or whatever it is right in the PCV TUBE.
If I plug the tube at the manifold I am putting a plug 1mm before the sensor.

Will that hurt anything?

I am somewhat concerned about putting a plug on that sensor not knowing what its does. All I know is Bentleys calls it a "heater".
Anyone know how important is it and what it does?

If it's on the tube that goes into the CCV, then modify the tube to include that portion of the stock tube.

heater=hot thing to heat the air/gasses as they enter the intake to avoid moisture condensation/freezing.

It is not a sensor.

Front view of the new CCV we are testing.

I like the concept of the Old Navy design.

I have been running the wingnut version for about 25,000 miles (8 months) and just cleaned the intercooler....absolutely contaminated with oil. I probably got about 2-3 ounces out just by tipping it upside down.

After cleaning the whole thing, I added a makeshift filter on the return side. I spliced in a schedule 80 PVC 1" union and placed a PVC filter in the union. After a week the white filter is black.

Wingnut, sorry for bearing bad news, but our idea isn't as good as originally thought. It still traps oil, but not all of it. I suspect there is enough oil in vapor form so that it does not condense and fall into the trap.