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TDI Power Enhancements Discussions about increasing the power of your TDI engine. i.e. chips, injectors, powerboxes, clutches, etc. Handling, suspensions, wheels, type discussion should be put into the "Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)" forum. Non TDI vehicle related postings will be moved or removed. Please note the Performance Disclaimer.

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Old March 7th, 2015, 18:55   #1
[486]
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Location: St.Paul, MN
TDI(s): 02 golf ALH
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Default made a twin disk flywheel

So, got bored and stuff. Here's the results.
Jig to hold it to the rotab took about 8 hours to make.

Milling out the bulk of the material, mainly to learn about the mill, and also because doing it all on the brake lathe would suck.

Pretty good hogging pass for a crappy italian bridgeport clone that was $1200, rotary table, vise, and collets included.

Done on the mill more or less.

Skip a few steps because I forgot to take pics, and there you are.

The flywheel was turned on the brake lathe, both the surface and the sides of the "pot", mainly because I don't want iron
on my lathe's ways.
The ring gear came off, and the slots for the drive lugs were milled in there, then the ring gear pressed (hammered) back on.
Floater plate and the spacer ring were both made out of brake rotors, because cheap.
You can see in the upper right there are some balance holes I drilled, balanced it on the tire balancer at work, heh. Figured
.35oz is close enough for me, parts'll flop around in there quite a bit anyways.

Floater has the step in it both to clear the spacer ring, and to add drive lug meat.

Didn't know if the not all that supported starter ring gear wouldn't just spin on the decreased bearing surface, so I made the
spacer plate such that it presses on the ring gear first, and has about .005" clearance before touching the flywheel's iron.


Pics are huge and untrimmed because MS paint doesn't seem to want to work under wine in loonicks.
Gonna use two stock DMF friction discs , just gotta cut the drive hubs down a bit so they all stack in there and don't rub on
the input bearing retainer's snout.
You know there's only 1/32" of clearance with the sachs DMF setup to the final drive housing in the bellhousing? Bad design.
Luckily the 2L gas flywheel has 7mm of extra room in there. First thought it wasn't going to work until I figured that bit out.
Oh, and another interesting thing for those who have done a clutch job and wondered why it only fits pp-flywheel one way, the
bolts are all equally spaced, the alignment dowels are more or less, one of them is a single, one (1) degree off to one side, to
line up the slots in the pp fingers with the crank bolts.

Last edited by [486]; March 7th, 2015 at 19:22.
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Old March 7th, 2015, 19:07   #2
Bob_Fout
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What's a twin dick?
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Old March 7th, 2015, 19:10   #3
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strong work. I don't see any problems, I like it.
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Old March 7th, 2015, 19:11   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_Fout View Post
What's a twin dick?
Got a mirror at your house?
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Old March 7th, 2015, 19:22   #5
[486]
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob_Fout View Post
What's a twin dick?
hahahaha
A typo.

Let's see if I can edit that. ETA: nope, guess I'm stuck with it. I'll try deleting and reposting. ETA2: guess I can't do that either. Well heck.
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Old March 7th, 2015, 19:31   #6
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You can ask a moderator for help.
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Old March 7th, 2015, 20:46   #7
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Lots of nice work there,looks top notch! The unsprung disc's should be interesting as your flywheel is obviously light.Should be silent I just wonder how it will act on the road compared to a sprung disc.My spec twin disc setup for the drag car is not too heavy either and is unsprung also.

I was tempted to try an upsprung 4 pad disc on my daily but did some searching and figured I'd stick with sprung.I still wonder how it would work with a daily driver.

Are you going to use the DMF pressure plate ? Might need to put a bit more than stock clamping force even with 2 fresh disc's.vr6 pressure plate would be a good start.
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Old March 8th, 2015, 09:09   #8
[486]
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy2 View Post
Lots of nice work there,looks top notch! The unsprung disc's should be interesting as your flywheel is obviously
light.Should be silent I just wonder how it will act on the road compared to a sprung disc.My spec twin disc setup
for the drag car is not too heavy either and is unsprung also.

I was tempted to try an upsprung 4 pad disc on my daily but did some searching and figured I'd stick with sprung.
I still wonder how it would work with a daily driver.

Are you going to use the DMF pressure plate ? Might need to put a bit more than stock clamping force even with
2 fresh disc's.vr6 pressure plate would be a good start.
The springs in the clutch hub are not for damping any sort of vibration, they're for hitting curbs, potholes and stuff.
Keeping 'hard' shock loads off the drivetrain. They may work back and forth when you're lugging the engine down
and putting far too much torque through it at too low of an RPM, but when that is happening they are being worked
back and forth far past their design properties, and they will fail very quickly. Then you have spring bits flying about
in the far too small bellhousing. A new trans case is the result.
.
I'm pretty sure it'll end up spitting a few gears out in chunks eventually, even with the stock pressure plate. Figure it's
nicer on the TO bearing, and the crank thrust bearings. On all the high dollar multidisk (almost typed dick again there)
clutch sites they seem to rate the holding power of their clutches linearly with the amount of discs, ie, "white"
diaphragm spring is rated at 120ft/lbs single, 240 dual, and 360 triple disc, so going with the stock rating of something
like 250 ft/lbs this should be good for 500ft/lbs, more than I hope to ever make with this transmission.
.
On the weight, I was trying to keep it heavy as possible, in fact, I'd love a 30lb+ flywheel if it were possible to fit it in
there with the rest, I might be able to sneak in a couple more lbs with a billet flywheel, this one has very generous
clearance for the rear main seal.
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Old March 8th, 2015, 09:21   #9
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Found some more pics on my phone in the interim where I thought I forgot to take pics. All this was 2 weeks ago,
figured I wouldn't post anything until the thing was done. Trying to avoid posting half a project then losing interest.

ETA: second pic is to show that I used a corner radius end mill for the slots, to eliminate the stress riser of a
sharp corner right at the crotch of the slots. Do not want twenty pounds of cast iron coming apart at 5k RPM.
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Old March 8th, 2015, 15:25   #10
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Wow nice work I've been thinking about this for a while, but don't have access to the machinery to make it.

How did you get the starter ring off ?
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Old March 8th, 2015, 19:08   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikkijayne View Post
Wow nice work I've been thinking about this for a while, but don't have access to the machinery to make it.

How did you get the starter ring off ?
Just guessing but usually with a little heat applied those ring gears come right off quite easily.


Nice job on the machining!
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Old March 8th, 2015, 20:44   #12
[486]
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mikkijayne View Post
Wow nice work I've been thinking about this for a while, but don't have access to the machinery to make it.

How did you get the starter ring off ?
Hammer and a chisel. Tried heating it with propane, the oxy acet heats quick enough to get them off, but didn't want to screw with it.

Oh, and this ain't any sort of DMF, those flywheels have the ring gear welded on. Pretty sure it's a friction weld too. Stock 2L gasoline flywheel.
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Old March 9th, 2015, 05:12   #13
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Do the input shaft have long enough splines for this?
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Old March 9th, 2015, 10:07   #14
[486]
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Do the input shaft have long enough splines for this?
Honest, I've measured.

I haven't looked at the figures yet, but it'll work. I'll make it work. The splined drive hubs will need to be
thinned on the lathe, and which direction I thin them in is entirely dependent on where the input shaft lines
up, as its protruding splines are only really the length of one of the splined hubs.
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Old March 10th, 2015, 17:39   #15
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Very very cool stuff.
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