And yet another Toyota swap, but M-Tdi.

JaysinSpaceman

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Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
While dealing with DMV is never fun doing a diesel swap on a pre 97 vehicle is fairly straight forward. (In Cali) Fill out a Statement Of Fact, bring the vehicle with the swap completed and the form to your local DMV, they will verify that the motive power is in fact diesel and make the change on the registration.

I also thought that I would mention that the 10" clutch that I swapped in (thanx to Jimbote's advice) holds the power great so far and has a very nice light peddle pressure. It is a joy to drive with this clutch as opposed to the uber heavy upgraded stock size clutches.

So far so good. I'm off for a little family vacation for the next 5 days but when I get back I will be putting some miles on her and hopefully be getting some MPG numbers and do a bit more tuning.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 

JaysinSpaceman

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Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
It's not a very good video. It's rather shaky as I had my wife's phone wedged into the headrest on the passenger seat but you get the idea. I would guess that the acceleration is about 1/2 throttle and revving to 2200-2500.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sara-philosophygal/14425392506/

I am going to try to borrow a GoPro or something like it to get a better video, but this will have to do for today.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 

JaysinSpaceman

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Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
Thanks for the video. How do the transmission ratios feel
With the 4.10 axle gears and the 33" tires 1st is just a wee bit tall, but not so bad that I want to swap axle gears or swap in a R151 trans (unless one fell into my lap). The rest of the ratio spread is pretty damn good. The drop between 1 through 4 is about 8-900 rpm each shift. 5th is only 3-400 rpm taller then 4th, but I don't mind this as I live in a very mountainous area and it works well to just increase the revs when pulling hills.

The first partial fill up netted 27.5 mpg, but that is with a lot of idle time, full throttle testing and creeping around the gravel roads in my neighborhood while working on tuning the mech pump. I think this next fill up will be better but the mountain roads are always hard on the MPG, I would like to see some freeway miles to see how that changes things.

Jaysin
 

Rockwell

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Joined
Nov 23, 2009
Location
Manchester, NH
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI (R.I.P.), 1.6TD Toyota pickup, 2011 BMW 335d, 1996 Passat TDI
What would you say was a good cruising RPM, say @ 65 MPH. Going to be doing a swap soon and trying to decide on which axle gears to go with.
 

JaysinSpaceman

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Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
And another update. More little finishing details, damn this stuff takes a lot of time.

I made up new door panels out of Masonite or hard board or what ever it's called. I used the old broken ones for a template and a jigsaw then some spray adhesive to stick the upholstery to the board. The fabric is the same stuff I used for the headliner. It might get dirty after a while but it is cheap and should be easily replaced and it seems to do a good job of sound deadening.





The arm rests are a hideous color and clash horribly. I am going to keep an eye out for some plain black ones to replace them with.

Then I made some new kick panels and incorporated some 6" two-way speakers into them. They are 18 gauge steel with insulation glued to the back of them and with the 3 x 5 two-way speakers I cut into the b-pillars the stereo now sounds pretty good. Or at least good enough for this deaf bastard.





So two more things crossed off the list. The door panels made a huge difference in the interior noise level and then the kick panels made a little more reduction as well. It ain't no Lexus and it's still a diesel but it is livable at this point and I have a few more things to insulate which should further reduce the interior noise.

As for Rockwell's question, I aimed at getting the same (or close) cruse RPM that the stock VW car had. I think that 4.10 or 4.30 gears with 33" tires would both be acceptable, both ratios are stock Toyota gearings and if you are looking to add E-locker rear and/or front then either are easy to come by.

Tune in next time for another installment of insanity.
Jaysin
 

Bczuk

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Joined
May 21, 2012
Location
Mission, BC
TDI
LWB Samurai - 2001 Jetta
I'm curious what mine will be like with 5.29 and 37s. At least the 5.29 will be easy to sell if needed.

Door panels came out great
 

JaysinSpaceman

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Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
5.29 and 37" tires is roughly 15% deeper then what I am running (4.10 and 33" tires). Now I've driven a few stock Samis and I never felt comfortable over 60 mph or so and I can't imagine a lifted one on 37s would handle better then stock so I think your limited top speed will make it ok. And it will be one torquey SOB.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 

Rockwell

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Joined
Nov 23, 2009
Location
Manchester, NH
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI (R.I.P.), 1.6TD Toyota pickup, 2011 BMW 335d, 1996 Passat TDI
As for Rockwell's question, I aimed at getting the same (or close) cruse RPM that the stock VW car had. I think that 4.10 or 4.30 gears with 33" tires would both be acceptable, both ratios are stock Toyota gearings
Ok, perfect. Mines 2wd and I'll be running the stock 25" tires, just picked up a 3.07 axle
 

JaysinSpaceman

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Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
Well guys,

I might have a bit of a problem cropping up. I took the truck down to the TDI Club GTG in San Pablo and everything went swell on the way down, spent the night at a friends house about a half hour drive away, went to the GTG and had a great time on Sunday (it was very cool to put some faces to names). However, part way home cruising on the highway I looked at the oil pressure gauge and it was running about half of what it had been on the way down. I don't actually know what the pressure was before (the Toyota gauge just has a "L" and "H", no numbers) but the gauge was visibly lower (below the two ticks where normal should be). I watched it like a hawk the rest of the trip and it never got any lower but it never went up to where it was before even when the ambient air temp went down in the evening (I was sort of hoping itwas just the warmer temps driving through the valley). So today I screwed a mechanical gauge in the extra port on the oil cooler/filter mount next to the Toyota sender and with the engine and oil up to temp the idle pressure is 9-10psi and at 2000rpm it is 28-29psi. While this is not catastrophically low pressure it is lower then what I could find for a specification and it is lower then it was when I first got it running.

So I would like to ask what people's thoughts are and if there is anything that is a known problem with the oil pressure on ahu/1z engines? A little search said maybe the vac pump (which drives the oil pump) or the intermediate shaft bearings. Anyway, any help or input would be appreciated.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 

JaysinSpaceman

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Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
No one has an Idea?

I will likely be pulling the pan to check the oil pump bolts, only because I had to remove the oil pump and pickup to install the windage tray. I will also be looking for any other signs of babbitt material from the bearings or the intermediate shaft bearings.

I wouldn't be worried about the oil pressure as it is running now except for the fact that it was running higher and then it changed. It is the change that bothers me.

If anyone has other Ideas let me know.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 

JaysinSpaceman

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Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
Well I pulled the front covers off, loosened the timing bent and indeed the Intermediate Shaft has some radial play. The front bearing has play in the direction that the timing belt applies force on the pulley. So it is going to need at least a front I-shaft bearing and hopefully I can change both the front and rear with the engine in the truck.

Can someone tell me if this part number is the correct one, Clevite #SH-1209S? According to JEGS this number fits 73-84 1.5/1.6/1.7 4cyl engines and I saw a post from QuickTD they are the same but I wanted to make sure.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 

JaysinSpaceman

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Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
So I have been thinking about this Intermediate Shaft bearing failure and the fact that it is a common occurrence on these TD and AHU/1Z TDI engines. While looking at where the bearing has failed on the thrust side of the I-shaft (opposite the timing belt) I realized that the position of the oil hole in the bearing is in completely the wrong place. The reason it is in the wrong place is because A) this is basically the same block that the 1.8 gasser used and the 1.8 didn't have an injection pump and therefore ran the T-belt on the opposite side of the I-shaft pulley so the shaft's thrust was opposite where the TDI's thrust is and the oil hole is in the correct place when run as a gasser. B) the shaft also turns the opposite direction in a TDI from a gasser and therefore again the oil hole is in the wrong place for the TDI. In other words everything is wrong about this bearing.

So I talked with my old engine machining instructor about the issue and we came up with a fix. I will machine a groove in the back of the new bearing shell that is the width of the existing oil hole and to a depth approximately 60% of the thickness of the bearing shell. Then I will place the oil hole in the correct clocked location for the direction of thrust and rotation. The oil can now travel around the outside of the bearing shell and exit in the appropriate location. Problem solved.

Now I just wait for the bearing to arrive and do some careful machine work on the lathe.

If you can't tell I am a bit of a detective when it comes to all things mechanical and I really like to figure out why something fails so that I can make sure it doesn't fail again. And since the front bearing on the intermediate shaft is a common failure point on TD/TDI engines I knew that something was amiss and I just had to suss it out to fix the problem permanently.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 

vanbcguy

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Location
Vancouver, BC
TDI
'93 Passat - AHU mTDI with GTB1756VK
Very cool.

Generally they do OK as long as the timing belt doesn't get over tightened, but they definitely are the first place to look when one of these engines is having oil pressure problems or metal in the pan. The gasser origins of the block totally make sense with your hypothesis.
 

JaysinSpaceman

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Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
I am about 95% sure this is the main culprit to this particular problem, mostly because I have seen Chevrolet cam bearings installed incorrectly with this same kind of failure. The oil hole always needs to be installed so that the pressurized oil is swept under the most loaded area of any plane bearing. In my opinion this is a cost cutting measure that has caused the problem, VW could have easily remedied this but cutting a groove in the bearing bore and installing the same bearing with the oil hole correctly positioned. If I ever rebuild this or any other TD/TDI engine I will be sure to cut an oil groove in this bore so that an unmodified bearing could be installed with the oil hole down at the 5 or 6 o'clock position where the oil would be swept under the thrust area.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 

JaysinSpaceman

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Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
Jimmy,

Can you wait a week or so? I'd like to get a set installed, you know, to make sure it works. Not that I have any doubt about the solution, just my ability to machine a bearing shell. If I can do it reasonably easy I would be happy to do more.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 

jimbote

Certified Volkswagen Nut
Joined
Jul 10, 2006
Location
spiral arm, milky way (aka central NC)
TDI
Tacoma 4x4 converted to TDI
Jimmy,

Can you wait a week or so? I'd like to get a set installed, you know, to make sure it works. Not that I have any doubt about the solution, just my ability to machine a bearing shell. If I can do it reasonably easy I would be happy to do more.

Thanx,
Jaysin
yeah.... it'll be a week or so before i get my donor passat in the shop ...looking forward to your results !
 

JaysinSpaceman

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Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
Ok, I am going to show you how I modified the ahu/1z front intermediate shaft bearing so that it shouldn't be as failure prone. Although I did get a bit carried away while doing the repairs and forgot to take pictures as it was going back together.

These next two diagrams show the Timing Belt routing for the 1.8 gasser and the ahu/1z (which bassically share the same block) and the fact that the timing belt runs on opposite sides of the intermediate shaft pulley. This rearrangement of the timing belt is the majority of the reason that this front bearing is prone to failure, it not only changes the direction that the shaft is loaded but also the direction that it turns. The thrust load of the timing belt can also be exaggerated by adding a larger injector pump head (like 11 or 12 mm) because the force required to turn the pump increases and the tension on the timing belt also increases and therefore the thrust applied to the I-shaft bearing also increases. The oil hole in this bearing was positioned in the correct place for the gasser engine(about 10 o'clock) but completely incorrectly for the TD/TDI engines.





These next two pictures are taken from above the motor looking down at the wear on the thrust side of the TDI bearing. You can see a difference in color/shine at the wear/no wear interface.




This picture is looking up from the bottom of the motor at the oil galley hole that supplies oil to the bearing. It is quite literally 180 degrees opposite of the thrust load on the tdi I-shaft, this means that not only is the T-belt thrust pushing the shaft toward the dry side of the bearing but the oil pressure coming out of the galley is also adding to that thrust force.


Here is the practice groove cut into the back side of the bad bearing that I removed and then the two new bearings with the grove cut into the front bearing. The bearing shell is only about .060" thick and since the babbitt material on the inside of the bearing is .005" or so thick the groove should only be cut .035-.040" deep and the width of the oil hole in the bearing.


This looks out of focus but it is so you can see the groove depth at the side of the bearing.


New bearings.




This is where I quit taking pictures because I was so excited to get it all back together. But it goes together just like the original except that the front bearing oil hole gets clocked down between the 4:00-5:00 mark so that the oil enters at the beginning of the thrust area and is swept under the thrust area as any plane bearing is typically installed.

Now the repair I have done here is for an engine that is not completely disassembled. If you have an engine block that you are rebuilding and is just a bare block I would perform this repair differently, I would machine this grove into the bearing bore in the block itself (1/8" deep and the same width as the oil galley hole) then using a standard bearing (without any modification) the oil hole in the bearing would be located down at the 4:00-5:00 mark.

If you have any questions feel free to ask I will answer them as best I can.

Thanx for looking,
Jaysin
 

Frankencar

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Joined
May 15, 2007
Location
Dixon, California
TDI
1991 GTI +TDI, Lifted 98 NB TDI, Corrado TDI Swap, 15 Golf TDI, a dozen TDI motors etc...
great info Jaysin! Thanks for posting that. :) Now the question is - did this solve your oil pressure issue? I think I will be performing the same mod to the GTI soon as I just had a sudden decrease in oil pressure.
 

JaysinSpaceman

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Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
great info Jaysin! Thanks for posting that. :) Now the question is - did this solve your oil pressure issue? I think I will be performing the same mod to the GTI soon as I just had a sudden decrease in oil pressure.

Well, this is the question isn't it. The answer is a yes and a no. Yes, it did improve the oil pressure. With the bad I-shaft bearing it was running 9-10 psi at idle and 28-29 psi at 2000 rpm and now it is running 12-13 psi at idle and 33-34 psi at 2000 rpm and if I rev it further the pressure will hit 50+ psi. The no is that it did not come back to the same point it had been running at before the failure. I can't give a number for the before because I am going by the "no number" Toyota gauge but that same gauge is not running at the same place it was before the I-shaft bearing failure. I am a bit concerned that maybe I took some of the life out of the main and rod bearings because I drove it the rest of the way home with the low oil pressure, but I really don't know. I can't really think of anything else that might cause low pressure at this point with the repaired I-shaft bearing (other then mains and rods). There is no rod knock or other bad sounds so I think it is OK but... I am still a wee bit concerned because it is not the same as it was. I am currently trying to decide if I should try and replace the rod and main bearings or if I just drive it and not worry (me not worrying is somewhat unlikely).

If anyone has input about the direction that I should take please feel free to post up.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 

Frankencar

Veteran Member
Joined
May 15, 2007
Location
Dixon, California
TDI
1991 GTI +TDI, Lifted 98 NB TDI, Corrado TDI Swap, 15 Golf TDI, a dozen TDI motors etc...
Well, this is the question isn't it. The answer is a yes and a no. Yes, it did improve the oil pressure. With the bad I-shaft bearing it was running 9-10 psi at idle and 28-29 psi at 2000 rpm and now it is running 12-13 psi at idle and 33-34 psi at 2000 rpm and if I rev it further the pressure will hit 50+ psi. The no is that it did not come back to the same point it had been running at before the failure. I can't give a number for the before because I am going by the "no number" Toyota gauge but that same gauge is not running at the same place it was before the I-shaft bearing failure. I am a bit concerned that maybe I took some of the life out of the main and rod bearings because I drove it the rest of the way home with the low oil pressure, but I really don't know. I can't really think of anything else that might cause low pressure at this point with the repaired I-shaft bearing (other then mains and rods). There is no rod knock or other bad sounds so I think it is OK but... I am still a wee bit concerned because it is not the same as it was. I am currently trying to decide if I should try and replace the rod and main bearings or if I just drive it and not worry (me not worrying is somewhat unlikely).
If anyone has input about the direction that I should take please feel free to post up.
Thanx,
Jaysin
If it were me I would do the rods and mains just to be sure. :( I would instal the sputter bearings for the AFN engine. I really like that bearing mod too! :)
 

cumminsfromthecold

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Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Re. 1Z TDI intermediate shaft bearing and oil pressure drop, 1Z TDI

Sorry to hear about the oil pressure drop. That's some fine detective work. I just installed my Cyberdyne digital oil pressure gauge a week or so before the GTG, and I watched it the whole way down and the whole way back.

There seemed to be a drop in the initial readings on my truck as well. During the first few dozen miles (pre-highway high speed hammering for 400 miles), the readings seemed to be higher, and now they seem to be a point or two lower but are still within specifications: ~26psi at idle when at operating temperature.

I wonder if there is a "break in" period of time as we all install various brands and types of gauges from various places.

Still lacking an accurate coolant temp gauge, so I don't entirely know when the motor is over 85C and actually "warm," which is when I'm able to accurately monitor oil pressure values as I understand it. My little burg is a cool spot in the mountains, kind of like yours.

I did recently rebuild my vacuum pump (when I misdiagnosed a broken turbo oil feed line). That will be easy for you since you created a nice firewall gap.

Your solution looks great, and I would happily order one from you (if you're taking orders). :D Thanks for pics and keeping us posted. This is something swappers should attend to early on, I'm learning.
 

JaysinSpaceman

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Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
Well, I have an oil pressure update.

Wednesday morning I drove the truck on a 70-100 mile loop to run some errands and on the way down the hill about 30 miles or so the oil pressure stayed where it was on the stock Toyota gauge (slightly lower then where it ran when I first got it on the road but acceptable) and I ran around town then started home. On the way home I watched as the oil pressure slowly but alarmingly dropped more and more, never to zero but dropping oil pressure is never a good thing. Well I figured that I would either make it home and change all the bearings or not make it home and change all the bearings when it got towed (either way new bearings). Well long story short it made it home but was reading really low, I jumped out opened the hood and low and behold the mechanical gauge on the engine said that it had exactly the same pressure as when I left that morning, my stock gauge or sender must have been going south. So I bought a new VDO gauge and electric sender, stuck it in this afternoon and wouldn't you know it but I have 19-20 psi hot idle and 36 psi hot 2000 rpm and 45 psi by 2500 rpm. All this stress about oil pressure and I am pretty sure it was nothing but a failing gauge and the original failed I-shaft bearing. The mechanical gauge that I had installed was a 0 to 100 psi gauge and as we know they are only accurate in mid scale so the fact that it was reading a bit low at idle and a little low at 2000 rpm is not that surprising but DAMN that factory Toyota gauge. I think I will sleep better tonight.

Thanx,
Jaysin
 

marvinight

New member
Joined
Jan 24, 2014
Location
Oregon
TDI
2000 golf 1.9 5speed
so someone spotted your truck on Facebook under "toyotaholics" group. you might want to grab some popcorn. been watching your build thread for a while now been working on mine for bout 4 months doing great work! going to be my first paint job metallic blue.
 

JaysinSpaceman

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 5, 2008
Location
Skull County, Ca
TDI
Golf
So how do you like the power and MPG's.

So far, soooo good! It has great power, lots more get up and go then 22r it replaced. The mileage seems to be running right around 30mpg which for the very hilly and windy roads I live in isn't bad at all, not to mention that I can't seem to drive it sanely. The power sets you back in your seat pretty good and the loud peddle is addictive.

I hope to get it dynoed sometime in the near future, I just want to sort out a few more details before I do.

Jaysin
 
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