DC's 1756VK-assisted B4

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
It's alive!

However I have an oil light on but oil level isn't low. I killed the engine to be safe, but still need the 20 minutes of run time for the cam break in. Suggestions?
 

markd89

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2009
Location
Los Angeles
TDI
1978 VW Bus 1Z TDI
How satisfying that must be!!

What are you expecting for performance, longevity, economy -- i.e. what are the results you think you'll be seeing from all the changes?
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
First few minutes of life:
http://youtu.be/Tlz8WO3rJqo

Just a little walking around it while the cam is breaking in:
http://youtu.be/oOWbgJyW46A

I put about 110K miles on it. The rebuild was so I could enjoy the power and have the engine last me. I hope to treat it right and get 500K more out of my B4. I have hopes of 210-220 whp with everything taken into account. I've already noticed different behavior at RPMs <2000. I have interior work on the list next. Oh, and G60 gear oil is smooth as butter for shifting!

Gotta head into work in a few though. I have 1 existing issue to take care of before this is done; I seem to be stuck in a limp mode by nature of a boost leak. Noticed it when I drove over to temporaptor's place last night and it doesn't go away with a power cycle, thus its a hardware issue. No codes either. Nothing was loose or pipes popped off. I have 2 things left to check.
 

vanbcguy

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Location
Vancouver, BC
TDI
'93 Passat - AHU mTDI with GTB1756VK
Congratulations!

Hoping to get mine going soon, just lost 2 weeks due to a work trip. Can't wait for my first start.

Sent from my HTC One XL using Tapatalk
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
Okay, so the actuator popped off the vane's arm. I'll fix it when I get home. I may have to pull the actuator, cut a good amount off the shaft, and add a threaded union to lengthen the rod. Not too much of a surprise, honestly


How satisfying that must be!!

What are you expecting for performance, longevity, economy -- i.e. what are the results you think you'll be seeing from all the changes?
To more clearly answer: 210-220 whp. Excessive NVH <2000 RPM is gone. THis is a combination of better boost, balanced engine internals, the porting, or culmination of all of the above. Most B4s smooth out their NVH at ~2000, but mine is completely gone, despite the 14 lb flywheel making is worse due to less inertial damping.

For economy, as long as I don't muck anything up, I expect it to stay about the same. Before the rebuild I was getting ~49 with spirited highway driving. As for longevity, I still expect to keep this car and run it into the ground. I love it and now its even better than before.
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
I have the actuator set, for now until I can relocate it. So now that it works, yes I am stoked :D :D :D

I have to take the freeway into work due to a mini mountain range between me and work. With traffic I'm not worried about constantly variable RPM but without, it becomes a bit trickier. I'm pulsing and gliding between 60 and 80 if the road is empty. Sometime I'll engine break back to speed, else it'll be coasting in neutral. If I pulse to 85, engine RPMs will then range from 2250 to 2750.

Some do oil changes right after a cam break in. Some do them 10 miles into the break in. Others do them at 500 miles. I'm still running the high capacity oil filters in my B4 so I'm going to do the first change between 250 and 500. I have 5 quarts of oil left and might do 3.5 quarts break in oil, 1 quart reg. synthetic. This would be followed by using the last quart and a half of the break in oil with 3 quarts of synthetic at the next interval of 1000-2000 miles, depending on the returning UOA. Liqui-Moly Diesel High-Tech 5w-40 will be my synthetic.

Maybe on somewhere in that 2nd oil change, but defiantly in the 3rd, I will begin logs and fine tune everything. Right now it is evident in 1st, only on slow acceleration, that the N75 is pulling too much vacuum below 2250 RPM and chocking the engine. At 2000 RPM it starts opening up and I get a pop of acceleration. If I have a medium load on the engine it's nearly not perceptible, but watching VCDS and listening to the turbo makes it easy to spot. The extreme vacuum is also causing about 1.3 bar absolute of boost @ 2000 when I request a little acceleration on the freeway at 65 MPH.

So, as far as I can tell, I have just a couple things left before the engine is "done"
  • Fix timing. It's fully retarded so I want to move it up to half retard ;)
  • Fix tune
  • Relocate actuator

After that and gauges, I'll install/test the new intake setup I've been dreaming of ;)
 

nexus665

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 14, 2012
Location
Austria
TDI
Golf 4 1.9 ALH MY2002
Hi DC,

you'll notice boost creation/spikes change when you change ignition timing - if you've been running fully retarded, you'll be creating more boost than if the ignition timing was advanced a bit more. Even if this is not noticeable as much during driving since it's actively regulated then, response and spoolup are affected by timing changes.

So be sure to log again and not adjust beforehand when you change timing.

Regards
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
Thanks for that. I'll watch it after the retune. I'm tempted to put the timing at dead even since I have a drop in CR from the HG and pistons, but I won't be playing with it to that degree until I'm ready for logging.

Previously the stop screw was setup so the actuator rod had to be shortened to 11.5-12.5 inHg in order to get 60-70% DC in 3rd gear at 4000 RPM while WOT. Now that I've adjusted the vane gap via the stop screw and the actuator stop 15-16 inHg, I strongly feel that the over boosting is induced by a strong N75 DC used previously in attempts to get the turbo to spool. I have always had a 300-400 mbar overboost when below 2500 RPM, especially 2000-2250 RPM, all while steady state driving on level ground. When I coast down to speed in gear, right at 2500 RPM I start building boost again and there is a change in the curve of the N75 tapering off so it's apparent what's going on. I'll probably log that info and send it to my tuner.
 

JFettig

Vendor
Joined
Aug 18, 2010
Location
Blaine, MN
TDI
B5 Passat, 2010 Jetta
I've spent lots of time messing with timing on some low compression motors and found that you still do want it advanced mechanically. I don't even allow the ecu to call for negative timing at any point on these cars.
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
How far? Full mechanical? On Thursday I was going to play with it and if the stumbling & NVH in 2nd comes back when I advance it, I was going to put it back to middle-of-the-road.
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
Put timing dead center but too tired to tweak adaption to make sure actual=requested with a good duty cycle. Idling in gear for parking lot speeds did get rougher when I moved the timing up so I'll leave it centered since this is a daily driver. The anomalies in the turn and turbo control are more noticeable but that should be resolved shortly. I knew I overfilled with oil a bit. Doesn't look like I have any consumption but one minor leak that I need to tight and with 220 miles it's still nice and clear. Granted I'm not doing any WOT driving. I'll be changing the oil tomorrow and on Monday my new trans mount will go in. I'll probably post more photos on Mon/Tues too. Can't wait to get this on a dyno.
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
Had to go look through some PMs... I haven't touched the pump since I adjusted it a couple months prior to the rebuild so assuming it's still the same, I'm at 2.2 adapted to 4.2 with a pump voltage of 1.55 (average of over 100 points). Any higher I have a noticeable loss in power.
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
Hammered it down to ~1.7 v which came out to ~5 mg/str, matched timing via adaption too. Alsmost went for a test drive, but there was one kicker.

On Saturday I did the first oil change, 367.6 miles, and noticed the diff bell and a little of the clutch's bell housing had a film of oil. I couldn't tell if it was the break in oil, pale yellow, or G60, which is water clear but mixed with left over Redline MTL and MT-90. The film was light and not dripping so I left it be. When I had my head under the bonnet for the IQ adjustment. Noticed my clutch slave cylinder was slicked in oil with pooling and trailing down from the top of the bell housing. I had the engine on, traced it up and noticed a leak and then I noticed the cover for the cylinder head oil pressure sender was popped off. The oil was leaking through the spot where the electrical terminal was. Great, it's toast, but an inexpensive fixed that will be at a local shop for me to pick up tomorrow morning. Good news though that the oil level via the dip stick was never below the hashmarks.
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
Oil Squirters

Oil squirters: one of those things that isn't talked about much. Those who've been around engines a while know them well, but for someone new like me, they're simple and elegent. If you break one on the 1Z a replacement is ~$50 from IDParts. They're made from a banjo bolt with a valve of sorts that looks to be made from a ball bearing and a spring. This holds down what is basically a slightly oversized square nut with an corner cut off and a small metal pipe/nozzle press fitted in.

These guys are setup to spray oil at the bottom of the 1Z piston that has no oil galley and the oil will just slingshot around the underside of the piston. However, the nozzle needs to be delicately bent a few times in order to clear the fill hole on the new pistons if you're not putting 1Z pistons back in your TDI.

Stock Orientation:




I tried a coule different ways to hold onto the nozzles body (square nut) and bend the nozzle. I ended up using some tissue or paper and covered both sides of the nut with it and put it inside the jaws of an adjustable wrench. With it's weight and handle, it was the best anchor I had that didn't have teeth.

The easiest solution for bending the nozzle/pipette was the purchase of some brazz pipe; 2 sizes are needed with one at 3/16" and one at 1/8". I picked up 2, 1' sections of both pipe sizes for less than $5. The brass is rigid enough to bend the steel nozzle's end, but will not mar the surface. I had tried 8 mm wrenches, 4 & 5 mm, 1/4" drive sockets, but I needed deep throat variants but I know they'd mar or dent the nozzle.

Now if you go about this yourself, you may find that you can actually start closing down the opening of the nozzle due to how the brass pipe rests on the rest of the nozzle when you bend it. To solve that, I used my spike-on-a-stick tool from craftsman. It was in a toolset I have from a few years back and I just call it my shank; I've drawn blood a couple times with it unfortunately.



The shank is a rounded spike and is sharp enough and strong enough to use as a light pick, re-aim window washer jets, and for this use, re open up or round out the end out the nozzles of the oil squirters

Now, at first I thought that the squirters only needed a little rotation and outward bend so the stream of oil would hit the hole when the piston was close. However, I later decided to get a little more detailed and measured out the distance of the stroke, 95.5 mm, and move the pistons all of the way down the bore until it was at the end of it's stroke. For those who don't know, this is at a position that causes the piston's skirt to exit the cylinder bore, which is why the notch is present (duh!). So, I quickly found out that the nozzle needed to be bent/modded so it was parallel to, and cleared the oil galley hole because it actually sticks inside the piston.

As such, just aiming it at the hole won't work:






I'm sorry I don't have followup/final photos of the squirters clearing the entry holes, but I didn't want to clean the gloves or remove them and wash the powder off my hands to photograph things when I had momentum during reassembly. It took me about 8 minutes just to get those 5 photos after about 30 minutes trying to get lighting just so things could be seen clearly on camera.
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
One part I had to wait on was a M18x1.5 to AN10, 45˚ elbow for the oil return line. The sucker wasn't cheap, but I'm happy with the quality





Even thought the fittings are a bit oversized, the restrictions created from the fitting are close to the original pipe ID so I'm not worried.
 
Last edited:

mk1-83

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 14, 2010
Location
Holland
TDI
LUPO 1.9 tdi 300+ hp
Hi have same problems with oilsq. I bend them and i drill the hole in piston 1 mm bigger to have more clearance.
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
You may recall that the subframe got a healthy dose of oil. As mentioned before I've had some help with various parts of the rebuild.

Well, this is how you get under a subframe to clean it:





Replacing the hinted photo here, the subframe went in that night


John, to answer your question: Thermo-tec Coolit. Basically a cost effective generic foil+butyl barrier.

Engine went in a few days later.
It had to wait until I was rested enough to shuffle it onto the engine mounts


Visual to make sure everything cleared
 
Top