2micron PureFlow Kit Installed: First Impressions

Added Contain Flow Kit...working great!

Here are pics of both my PureFlow and ContainFlow kits installed....







...and a pic of my retired "early version" of the Contain Flow kit that I had on the car for 10,000 miles....



I have 300 miles on the Pure Flow kit with no problems and no leaks at all. I plan a longer vacation trip of 600-800 miles next week so I'll put both kits through a thorough test during that time.

Some installation tips....

Even though I feel I am methodical and organized I do have clumsy, fat fingers. During the install of the PureFlow I dropped a rubber compression washer down into the belly pan. Today, when installing the ContainFlow I was determined to be even more careful. Of course, I dropped the stainless steel clamp screw down into the belly pan! Couldn't use my magnetic wand to get it out. So, I hit the belly pan to bounce the screw back into view below the serpentine belt and used a claw reacher tool my son bought me for X-mas! No pulling the belly pan!!!

Please learn from my ordeal. Be very careful during your installs with these small parts.

My installation of both kits today

Well, today was my day to install both of 2microns latest kits. I did not drop any parts (I was very careful), but I did have a few other minor issues.

First off, this is what I started with. I already had a "2nd generation" Contain flow return filter.


These are all of the parts before assembly:


I decided that the Pure Flow (HPFP) mod might be easier to install before I installed the new return filter, so I removed my old Contain Flow filter and then set about installing the Pure Flow modification. My biggest problem was with removing the fuel line between the Aux pump and the Fuel Temperature sensor. The fuel line did not want to come off of that plastic temp sensor. We ended up cutting the fuel line (lengthwise) to get it loose from the sensor. I knew this piece of fuel line would not be re-used and I did not want to break the plastic sensor. This was only the beginning of the problems. When we tried to twist the hose to break it free of the fitting on the Aux pump - the entire fitting started to unscrew from the Aux pump. We removed the fitting and then got the hose off of it. More about this fitting later in this story.
{Edit} When twisting the fuel line to break loose the connection between the hose and the Aux pump fitting, ONLY twist clockwise (tighten) and you will not loosen the hose fitting screwed into the Aux pump.

The installation of the Pure Flow kit went very smoothly. The only issue I had was in inserting the little "assurance pin" into the channel (hole) in the HPFP. My pump is the older style, so I needed the bigger assurance pin. It took quite a bit of force to get this pin all of the way in. I ended up using an extension and a small hammer and tapping the pin into its hole. This was not a big deal, but it did take more force than I expected. I think that here was some fuel in the hole and most liquids don't compress very well at all. In every other way the installation was quick and easy.

We then installed the new Contain Flow return filter. With everything else done, this took only about 15 minutes.

This is a picture of the complete setup all installed:



...and this is after all was complete and the engine cover in place:



Anyway, our biggest problem came when we used VCDS to run the fuel pumps. There was fuel dripping from the line between the Aux pump and the banjo fitting on 2micron's aluminum fuel splitter block. It turned out to be that fitting I mentioned earlier. The little hose fitting that screws into the Aux Pump is sealed by a copper washer. Considering how easily this fitting came unscrewed when we tried pulling off the hose, I am really amazed that it did not leak before I took it apart. After tightening the hose clamps we determined that the leak was at that copper washer. We tried cleaning the washer and we managed to turn it from a fast drip to a slow leak, but it still leaked. Once again we took it all apart and I used the same diesel compatible high temperature thread sealant I used on the gauge to seal the threads on this hose fitting. Success! No more leaks. Finding and fixing this stupid leak ended up taking more time than the whole rest of the installation.

Special thanks to Rory (jetlagmech) for his assistance. He was curious how this kit worked and how it was installed. He mostly read the instructions while I did the install, but when it came to the leak, he actually got his hands dirty too. My new motto: Never turn down an offer of help from an aircraft mechanic when working on a car.

I had a few minor issues with the draft version of the instructions I had, but I will email Andrew about those so he can update the instructions. For example: the instructions say to remove two 8mm triple square bolts. Well, on my car they were 10mm triple square bolts. I do not know if this was an error in the instructions or a difference between Mk5 and Mk6 mounting hardware. My car is a Mk5 (2009) while Andrew's and Paul's are Mk6s. Either way, it was not difficult to figure out what to do.

One thing missing from the necessary tools listed in the instructions is some diesel compatible high temp thread sealant. This is necessary if you decide to install the optional gauge and it also came in very handy for the leak detailed above. Loctite 592 or Permatex 59235 are both good choices for this purpose.

General impressions: Both of these kits are superbly engineered and precisely manufactured. Every part fits perfectly. The only problems I had were related to Volkswagen engineered and build parts. For quality of design and construction, I would put Andrew ("2micron") in the same category as Jim Ralston ("Corrado TDI" better known as DieselGeek). Off the top of my head, I cannot think of third name to put in this same category. Beauty!

Have Fun!

Don

P.S. Total time doing both modifications was about 3.5 hours, but probably half of that time was spent fighting that stupid leak from the Aux Pump. We also BS'd a bit while working. It could have been done quicker, but we were not in a hurry.

Don,

Nice job! Thanks for the tips. I got my kits on Friday and want to install them but I still need the gauge (long story). I agree on the tremendous quality of these two assemblies. At least they are visible unlike Jim Ralston's DG short shifter.

Bob

Some more installation tips:

Read the instructions carefully before you even start working (more than once won't hurt). Then go out and have a very close look at your car and figure out where all of the parts you have to change are. Then carefully read the complete instructions again. Thoroughly understanding every detail of the assembly instructions will help immensely when you start working. You do not want to unhook the wrong hose or route the fuel the wrong way.

This is in the instructions, but it is worth mentioning again. When you have the HPFP open, absolute cleanliness is critical. Clean around the fuel metering valve before you remove it so no dirt can fall into the pump while it is removed. Do not use rags or paper towels to clean out the hole. Both are sources of lint which can cause future problems. Just leave it alone and don't keep it open (removed) for too long.

Other minor misc. tips:

-The instructions recommend ball end Allen wrenches. I would call them required, not recommended. (inch & metric sizes is nice)
-Andrew's hose clamps can be tightened with a screw driver, but a 7mm socket or nutdriver works even better (where you can get access).
-Don't over tighten hose clamps or any O-ringed connection.
-After you finish (but before running the pumps), make sure all hose clamps and Swagelock fittings are tight (we left one loose the first time we ran the pumps, and had to clean up the mess).

Have Fun!

Don

Glad you got everything installed Don. Seems there always is something to complicate an install. I too had trouble getting the fuel hose off the temp sensor. I finally used pliers to carefully grip the hose over the area containing the plastic barb from the sensor. I then was able to twist the hose back/forth until it was not adherent to the barb at all. I then still had to assist it off by using the flat portion of a screwdriver to push the edges of the tube while pulling. It eventually came off. I was overly cautious since I didn't want to break the plastic barb.

I have an early pump with the larger bore opening for the assurance tube. I had mild snugness but the assurance tube slid into place without much trouble.

Another tip: I found that in some instances using a allen/hex socket on a socket wrench worked better than using a standard L-shaped Allen wrench.

Don: once everything was installed do you find that the fuel line from the Aux pump to the banjo on the PureFlow was snug against the Contain Flow clamp? I don't think there will be a lot of vibration transmitted to this hose but I am wondering if I need to adjust this on my set up? I believe if I take 1/2" off the length it won't arc as much and will stay 1/8-1/4" away from the clamp.

schultp said:

Don: once everything was installed do you find that the fuel line from the Aux pump to the banjo on the PureFlow was snug against the Contain Flow clamp? I don't think there will be a lot of vibration transmitted to this hose but I am wondering if I need to adjust this on my set up? I believe if I take 1/2" off the length it won't arc as much and will stay 1/8-1/4" away from the clamp.

Click to expand...

I did not notice this. I will check tomorrow and see how it looks.

Have Fun!

Don

Is this the Temp Sensor




WOW this the most complicated backwards way I have ever seen of uploading a picture to a Forum!!!!

Is this the temp sensor?

Yes, it is!

TDIDSG4ME said:

WOW this the most complicated backwards way I have ever seen of uploading a picture to a Forum!!!!

Click to expand...

There are "tricks" to using the pic server here. The default URL you are presented with is a linked thumbnail (which is what you posted). If you click on the icon at the end of that line (looks like this: ), you get several other choices. You can choose a URL for a "linked medium image" which will display a resized (usually smaller) image in the post. If you click on that image, you can see the full sized image. You can also just choose a "medium image" which just show the resized image in your post. A little trick is that you can delete "/medium" out of the URL and it will post the full sized image. Be very careful if you do this. Do not post too large of an image or some members will get upset. Limit these "full sized image" postings to about 800x600 or smaller.

Have Fun!

Don

Thanks Don, and also for your great support for Andrew.

I've been thinking about these mods and trying to decide if there is any downside to their installation (aside from possibly freaking out a dealership mechanic). My conclusion is that there is no downside to the Pure Flow HPFP modification. As for the Contain Flow return flow there are a few minor issues:
1) This filter will have to be removed to service the air conditioning system. One of the refrigerant fittings is under/behind the filter.
2) This filter will probably have to be removed to replace left side headlight bulbs.
3) This filter has to be (at least) disconnected to change the regular (stock) fuel filter.
4) In my Mk5, there is not much spare room under the filter. I am not sure whether or not I will be able to replace this new return filter with the bracket mounted. I might have to remove (or partially remove) the filter bracket to change the filter. I won't know for sure until I actually try replacing the filter.

The good news is that temporarily disconnecting (or removing) this return filter is easy and can be done in 10 minutes or less (disconnecting or bypassing in even less time). This new (3rd generation?) design is actually easier to work with than the 2nd generation one I had before. Better in every way.

Have Fun!

Don

P.S. Since removing and re-installing this thing will likely happen a number of times while you own the car. I would strongly recommend that anyone who wants to install these should either own or have a friend that owns VCDS or some other VW specific scanner that knows how to do VW engine controller basic settings.

schultp said:

I too had trouble getting the fuel hose off the temp sensor. I finally used pliers to carefully grip the hose over the area containing the plastic barb from the sensor. I then was able to twist the hose back/forth until it was not adherent to the barb at all. I then still had to assist it off by using the flat portion of a screwdriver to push the edges of the tube while pulling. It eventually came off. I was overly cautious since I didn't want to break the plastic barb.

Click to expand...

I tried this method first. I twisted as hard as I dared. I, too, was afraid of breaking off that plastic barb. This is why I decided to cut open the hose. The fuel line is disposable, the temp sensor irreparable. It was an easy choice.

Have Fun!

Don

JSWTDI09 said:

As for the Contain Flow return flow there are a few minor issues:
1) This filter will have to be removed to service the air conditioning system. One of the refrigerant fittings is under/behind the filter.
2) This filter will probably have to be removed to replace left side headlight bulbs.
3) This filter has to be (at least) disconnected to change the regular (stock) fuel filter.
4) In my Mk5, there is not much spare room under the filter. I am not sure whether or not I will be able to replace this new return filter with the bracket mounted. I might have to remove (or partially remove) the filter bracket to change the filter. I won't know for sure until I actually try replacing the filter.

Click to expand...

I had this same list form in my mind as I did the installation. I definitely don't see a way to remove the filter for replacement without removing the clamp and raising it upward. The bottom of the filter is only a fraction of an inch from the top of the air conditioning service port.

I mentioned to Andrew in one of my emails that it would be nice to have the recommended filter replacement procedure included in his final instructions/manual. I am sure he has reviewed the best method...he checks into everything as you know!

The installation of the Pure Flow kit went very smoothly. The only issue I had was in inserting the little "assurance pin" into the channel (hole) in the HPFP. My pump is the older style, so I needed the bigger assurance pin. It took quite a bit of force to get this pin all of the way in. I ended up using an extension and a small hammer and tapping the pin into its hole. This was not a big deal, but it did take more force than I expected. I think that here was some fuel in the hole and most liquids don't compress very well at all. In every other way the installation was quick and easy.

Click to expand...

Hi Don,

Can you explain the "Assurance Pin" and how it was installed? I have a 2009 as well and want to make sure I get the right part from Andrew when ordering the kit. It sounds like it blocks off the return channel in the HPFP.

Thanks,
Thomas

konyip said:

Hi Don,

Can you explain the "Assurance Pin" and how it was installed? I have a 2009 as well and want to make sure I get the right part from Andrew when ordering the kit. It sounds like it blocks off the return channel in the HPFP.

Thanks,
Thomas

Click to expand...

Getting the "right one" is not an issue because the kit comes with both possible pins. You just install the one that fits. How it is installed is explained in the instructions (with several pictures). It is basically just pushed into a hole. It is a metal pin with an o-ring to seal it.

What the "Assurance Pin" does is to ensure that the fuel flow from the low pressure side of the pump cannot get to the high pressure side. This is the design flaw in the stock HPFP that the Pure Flow adapter is intended to correct. This prevents any metal particles from the destruction of the roller in the low pressure side from getting into the high pressure side and contaminating the fuel rail and the injectors. The Pure flow adapter by itself should completely block this flow, but this pin "assures" that this fuel channel in the pump is blocked - hence its name "Assurance Pin".

Have Fun!

Don

JSWTDI09 said:

...
2) This filter will probably have to be removed to replace left side headlight bulbs.
...

Click to expand...

I think only the high beam bulbs access will be blocked, these bulbs are used less and if not working not so critical as the low beam dying. Low beam globe is still accessible as it is closer to the side fender and not blocked by the return filter.

After chaging bulbs on my 2000 beetle, anything else should be a cakewalk.

Gigitt said:

I think only the high beam bulbs access will be blocked, these bulbs are used less and if not working not so critical as the low beam dying. Low beam globe is still accessible as it is closer to the side fender and not blocked by the return filter.

Click to expand...

I thought about this. It is why I included the word "probably" in my statement.

Have Fun!

Don

thread sealant

Don,

I see you mention thread sealant, specifically for the filter gauge. I'm preparing to install both the filter and the ContainFlow assembly as soon as the filter arrives. Do you recommend using the sealant on all the threads or for just the gauge. Looking forward to your response.

Thanks

Bob

bobt2382 said:

Don,

I see you mention thread sealant, specifically for the filter gauge. I'm preparing to install both the filter and the ContainFlow assembly as soon as the filter arrives. Do you recommend using the sealant on all the threads or for just the gauge. Looking forward to your response.

Thanks

Bob

Click to expand...

There is no need for sealants on the Swagelock fittings (to the stainless tubes), they are a compression seal. Andrew already used sealant when these fittings screw into his aluminum pieces. These are pre-installed so you don't have to worry about them. If all goes well, the only place you will want sealant is on the gauge. If you want the gauge to be easily readable, you might not be able to tighten it as far as it will go. The sealant will allow you to position the gauge so that the bottom of the dial faces you. The only other place I used the thread sealant is when something came apart that wasn't supposed to come apart.

Have Fun!

Don

schultp said:

Don: once everything was installed do you find that the fuel line from the Aux pump to the banjo on the PureFlow was snug against the Contain Flow clamp? I don't think there will be a lot of vibration transmitted to this hose but I am wondering if I need to adjust this on my set up? I believe if I take 1/2" off the length it won't arc as much and will stay 1/8-1/4" away from the clamp.

Click to expand...

I'm sorry, I forgot to reply to this question. I did look at my setup and it is the same as yours. That hose is definitely resting against the contain flow bracket. The good news is that it is touching a nice flat, smooth part of the bracket (not a sharp edge). I do not know how much movement or vibration occurs with these hoses, so I do not know if this is important or how important it is. Have you tried shortening (or re-positioning) that hose? I would not want it to be too tight. Since the engine does move some, there has to be some room to flex. Perhaps Andrew will have an opinion about this issue.

Have Fun!

Don

Have all the users of this system installed it yourself? How much (approx) would an independent shop charge for installation?

I would think about an hour to 90 minutes labor.

Don,

I have the hose resting against the same flat gave you refer to. Initially it was riding up on the top edge of the contain flow bracket. But a quick readjustment and it is now reading more comfortably.

Paul

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk 2

JSWTDI09 said:

- hence its name "Assurance Pin".

Click to expand...

We like acronyms and things on this site. So from now on, this will be known as the Ass. Pin.

frugality said:

We like acronyms and things on this site. So from now on, this will be known as the Ass. Pin.

Click to expand...

The industry I work in has an incredible mass of acronyms. My company recently released it's official list of industry acronyms - it is 45 (single spaced) pages long!

You can call this little thing anything you want, but I doubt that Andrew will change the name in his documentation.

Have Fun!

Don

1000 mile update

I returned from a 600 mile trip to northern Michigan for a short vacation. About 520 miles of this was on the interstate highway. No changes in performance at all. You wouldn't ever know that the PureFlow and ContainFlow kits were installed. Averaged 50 mpg with the AC on during the return trip earlier today (about 250 miles of interstate at about 72 mph).

schultp said:

I returned from a 600 mile trip to northern Michigan for a short vacation. About 520 miles of this was on the interstate highway. No changes in performance at all. You wouldn't ever know that the PureFlow and ContainFlow kits were installed. Averaged 50 mpg with the AC on during the return trip earlier today (about 250 miles of interstate at about 72 mph).

Click to expand...

good info. Thanks Schultp. The more miles we see on this solution the more confidence people will have in it....

Another PureFlow Kit Installed

Completed my PureFlow Kit install on My 2010 Golf. I also replaced the 1st generation Contain Flow set-up with the current version. I have used Optilube XPD and B2-B5 blend since about 5k miles. As others have stated, real quality products! I will forward my suggestions to Andrew for his review.

Install went well thanks to his instructions and additional information provided by folks in this thread.

A few comments about the install that may help some of the novice mechanics that want to install this.

1. Removing the OEM fuel line from the Auxiliary Fuel pump - HPFP Temperature Sensor is a PITA. The pump nipple attachment is underneath a bracket. I removed the two fuel lines that rub along the bracket. They attach to the OEM fuel filter top. I simply removed the OEM clamps and pulled the lines off the OEM filter cap and then moved them out of the way to have easy access to the Auxiliary Fuel pump nipple/OEM line clamp.

The pump nipple is metal (unlike the plastic temp sensor), so I was able to carefully place a flathead screwdriver between the nipple and hose. This hose is NOT reused so you, can grab the hose with pliers ( or vide grips ) and pull away from the nipple while prying with the screwdriver. My line came off fairly easily using this technique. Andrew suggested that I "tighten" this nipple on the fuel pump as another install had some leaking at this point, IIRC an 11mm socket. Well, you'll need a deep socket in order to tighten it, which I did have with me. Thankfully, I have no leaks! I would have followed his suggestion to remove, apply red thread locker, and reinstall if I had the correct tool. . "an once of prevention..."

The HPFP Temperature Sensor nipple is plastic. My car is a little over 3 years old and the fuel line was very stubborn. I should have just carefully sliced the line along the length of the nipple and then pried it away from the nipple as Don did, since were not reusing it. I have some small dental picks that I "forced" between the line and nipple while applying a little lubricant. Be careful not to mar or nick the plastic nipple which could lead to a leaky seal. If you take your time and carefully break the bond between the plastic nipple and rubber hose, you can "pull/twist" the hose from this plastic nipple.

LUBE both the nipples!!! This is really helpful when install the new fuel lines. The lube allows you to "align" the hoses in order to provide stress relief and prevent contact with metal parts. I had to remove/twist the new lines a few times until I was able get the clearance and radius that I was happy with.

2. Removing the OEM fuel clamps. I do not have a clamp tool for these type clamps. I have always used a small vise grip. I set the opening width of the grip to the about 1/4 inch and then squeeze the OEM clamp open. If I've set the grip width correctly they will lock firmly in position and the clamp has opened sufficiently in order to slide the clamp down the fuel line. Also helps if the grip ends have clean ridges (not worn down); grab the two clamp compression points with the 1st ridge. The vise grip worked perfectly for me and the I did not mangle the OEM clamp.

3. Clean thoroughly before starting. This is probably obvious to most of the members. My OCD and professional experience made this a priority. I purchased a can of Brake Cleaner to use in cleaning the following three areas. The Aux. Fuel Pump Nipple, the base of the Fuel Metering Valve, and the lift bracket mounting point.

My car is 3 years old and is mainly driven in the CA desert, so lots of fine dust on the motor.

I sprayed the brake cleaner in each of the areas a few times. I used Q-Tips spayed with the cleaner to wipe around the base of the Fuel Metering Valve. I was satisfied with the result. When I removed the Fuel Metering Valve there was visible debris. I DID wipe down this area a few times with the cleaner soaked Q-Tips.

4. Primed the system using VCDS. Did the Fuel Pump and Aux Fuel pumps 3-4 times. Waited a 10-15 minutes and another 3-4 times. Since its suggested that you run each pump for 45 seconds, I inspected for leaks as the pumps were running. Thankfully, no leaks! You can hear "air bubbles", mainly when running the aux pump. When I was satisfied that the air was purged from the system I checked for leaks. I took a Q-TIP and wiped under the aux fuel pump nipple for leaks or weepage. Car started as it normally does without issues. Drove around the block and rechecked for leaks. Later, I ran a few errands and rechecked for leaks at each stop.

Thanks Andrew for two great products. Not sure I'll sleep any better since I still drink too much coffee , but I'm sure I will worry less about the financial impact if I experience the unfortunate HPFP failure. I may make a roundtrip from NJ to Florida next week. If I do, I'll report back with some feedback.

Bob

Bob, glad to hear you have everything installed. Working off the hose from the aux pump is tricky due to the space constraints. I also used the flat screwdriver method.

How close to the bottom of your filter is the AC service port? I moved/bent the line over slightly as instructed. But, when it comes time to change the filter I only have about 1/2" between the cap on the port and the bottom of the filter. I am wondering about the spacing on yours and Don's installations.