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VW B5 Passat TDIs This is a general discussion about B5 Passat(>98 (2004-2005 in North America)). Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old February 24th, 2013, 14:43   #1
Uberhare
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Default BHW/01E 6 Speed Swap

First - thanks to all who have written info on this in previous threads.
Second - I am half way though my swap and have discovered a few things not previously mentioned.

Let's start with the REAL parts list: (Work in progress will update as I complete my swap.)
6 Speed transmission
Passenger side heat shield above axle
240mm flywheel/clutch (get new bolts if reusing used parts)
Pilot bearing 056105313C
6 speed shifter & rods, boot and knob.
Starter
Axles. (larger inner CV than 5 speed units)
5.5mm spacer plate between bellhousing and transmission 01E 103 551B if using stock 240mm DMF. 228mm can do without.
*** 16x18.8 dowel pins x 2. 01E 301 153E. No one has mentioned this before!
Clutch switches and pigtails.
Clutch pedal with longer mounting pin
Brake pedal and rubber - OR cut and modify your original one.
Clutch master cyl, slave cyl and line. Apparently one from a NA 1.8T will work fine
Longer upper starter bolt
Longer bolt + nut for passenger side lower through block
Also used a bolt + nut to relocate the starter wire support on the passenger side. There is an extra through hole up there not used.
Fresh gear oil (recommended)
New outer CV boots (recommended)

In the beginning.........We had a funny looking brake pedal, and something was missing.

In this image you can see where the master bolts in above the steering shaft. There are two grommets you will pull out. Push them through to the engine side. Bolt up the master without the pedal attached. It sticks through the firewall far enough to clip in the line after. Then put the pedal in. It's a tight squeeze, but just fits between the fuse panel and the steering shaft. Just rotate it around, it goes.


Here's how I dealt with the brake pedal, as I didn't get a donor one:




The all important 3 pedal shot:



I chose the perfect timing to do my swap. There was a vibration in the front right, which I had assumed was from a torn CV boot eating up the outer joint. WRONG:


Here you will notice 2 bolts missing. The other 4 also were well on their way out. Car was dealer service prior to my purchase.....
More updates to come....
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Retired: 2005 Passat BHW Variant w/01E 6 gang

Last edited by Uberhare; February 27th, 2016 at 18:15.
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Old February 24th, 2013, 19:15   #2
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Just found this Ford P/N in case Audi doesn't have any dowels in stock tomorrow: F8AZ-6A008-AA. They are m16x19 for block to head alignment! They should work as well.

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Old February 25th, 2013, 18:31   #3
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Update: Dowels are readily available here in NA. On order, should see them tomorrow.
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Old February 26th, 2013, 20:16   #4
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Curious about the spacer plate for the trans. Where did you find that info and or who suggested it?
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Old February 26th, 2013, 21:19   #5
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It's right in ETKA.

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Old February 27th, 2013, 09:06   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uberhare View Post
It's right in ETKA.

Hmm, I wonder if one is needed for the 01E DQS ratio trans. I looked at ETKA originally, but I couldn't find info on it. I'm sure it's there, but I'm not finding it. Right now, I have the trans without the spacer.
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1996
B4V, 2.0L w/ BHW pistons, Rosten Rods, Girdle, 11mm, GTB1756vk, RC6, PP764s, .622 5th, Colt Cam II, Ecodes W/leveling motors & Euro switch, fog lights, Koni Yellow, Cat FF, Whitbread 2.5" DP, exhaust, FMIC
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Old February 27th, 2013, 10:45   #7
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My understanding is that it is very necessary if you have the stock 240mm DMF, as this is thicker than the SMF you are using.
I fitted my 01E DQS with a SMF, and no spacer. It works fine, but pedal position is very high. Pretty sure the spacer would help it.
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Old February 27th, 2013, 21:16   #8
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I'll be running the stock DMF for now, as I blew the budget already. Dowel pins are on my desk. Going to have another go at it tomorrow.

Another note on the dowels - If you look in group 3 it only shows the shorter ones. Even when you go by transmission code. Only under group 103 do you get the right dowel with the spacer.
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Old March 3rd, 2013, 07:07   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprocket View Post
Curious about the spacer plate for the trans. Where did you find that info and or who suggested it?
Use of the spacer is dictated by the flywheel. Early 1.9 228mm dmf flywheels do not require a spacer, however the later 240mm flywheels do.
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Old March 4th, 2013, 20:51   #10
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Rear main seal was just starting to leak, so I replaced it:


Installing the clutch line. This was the worst part of the install, and you'll want to do this with the trans out. ELSA tells you to remove the brake booster. The lower torx bolt is a PITA. Some have been able to bend the line slightly to get it to fit. I didn't want to force it through, so I loosed the booster and pulled it forward an inch. Un-thread the bolts almost all the way - they are pretty long. Clutch line position from underneath:


I reused all the original grommets, just poked a hole in them for the lines to go through.

New dowel pins: (old one in the pic for comparison)


Side by side comparison for size (I can actually pickup the 6 speed by myself!):



Old starter and new starter (now go sell yours to someone else!):

You will have to remove the turbo support bracket. I am looking into finding a different one that fits, or fabricating something. I also had to unbolt the a/c compressor to get the starter in. Yes - it's that big...



Fits like a glove:


They left an access hole in the driver's side mount to tighten the bolt....
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Last edited by Uberhare; March 4th, 2013 at 21:31.
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Old March 4th, 2013, 20:54   #11
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Shifter completed:


Connect the clutch line and bleed! You will need a helper for this part. Just keep pushing fluid through until there are no more bubbles. I tied a bungee to the pedal for my helper, so he could pull it back up easily. My son is short and has troubles reaching the floor!

Remove TCM in floor - remove passenger side lower A-piller trim. There is a single screw under a cap at floor level. Remove the screw and gently pull. Then pull up the trim along the door sill. It just clips in, pull straight up. Lift up the carpet, reach inside and pull out the large plastic box. Open it and remove the TCM. Seal the box back up and put in back in the floor. If your carpet is wet - CHECK YOUR SUNROOF DRAINS!! (Mine was....) They easily disconnect where they go through the A-pillar. I'll take pictures when I fix mine.

ECU: You will have to get a chip tuner to reprogram your ECU.

Can/Gateway: Set coding to 006. Same as before but it will force the gateway to relearn installed modules.

ABS - Recode:
Login to enable coding 09555
Recode to 04255
NOW perform steering angle sensor calibration. (Failure to compelete this will cause the coding not to complete.) Login to enable Basic Settings (40168)
Perform G85 calibration in Basic Settings group 001

I am still driving around with faults - I have to reprogram the ECU first. The flashing ABS warning has got to be the most annoying light to drive with. The cluster is smart enough to realize there is NO TCM after you do the gateway coding. No more PRND321 illuminated on the dash: (Here's my Christmas Tree...)



Cruise control: It works as is, but without the clutch switch the engine redlines if you press the clutch. I tested it... You will need the clutch switch and pigtail from another car. This has to be wired to the ECM through the firewall. You can reuse the kickdown wire and repin at the ECU. More on this later when it's done.

Starter interlock: Relay position #13. Two choices here - A) Bypass it with a jumper wire from terminal 30 to 87 B) Rewire to the clutch interlock switch from a donar car....I bypassed it for now.

Good news: car drives amazing.
Bad news: clutch slips.....Grrr. At least I don't have to take down the subframe this time. (Don't ask me how i know....)

Would I do it again? ABSOLUTELY. Could you pay me to do it? ABSOLUTELY NOT.
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Last edited by Uberhare; March 4th, 2013 at 21:33.
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Old March 4th, 2013, 21:01   #12
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BTW - this is what this car replaced

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Old March 5th, 2013, 18:12   #13
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Good job!! I'm in the middle of rounding up all the parts needed for the 5 speed since I can't source a local wrecked donor. Thanks for posting up the pics & sharing the experience. I think I'll echo your willingness to be paid to do it after I finish mine too! Definitely something that needs to be done, but only if you want to & like a challenge!
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Old March 5th, 2013, 21:45   #14
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Uberhare,
Curious to know how much engagement you got on the pilot bearing with the spacer installed ?
How deep did you press it into the crank ? any pics ?
thx
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Old March 6th, 2013, 05:34   #15
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CharlieT and Uberhare, what 240mm clutch are you using? I have seen CharlieT's comment about his 228mm being noisy and wanting to change, but will the 240MM DMF for the MKIV work?
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