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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old May 25th, 2012, 20:12   #286
ymz
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Sorry... I was replying to PDjetta, but you posted ahead of me, so it appears as if I was replying to you...

Good luck,

Yuri
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Old May 25th, 2012, 20:46   #287
Thirstyturtle328
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Originally Posted by ymz View Post
Sorry... I was replying to PDjetta, but you posted ahead of me, so it appears as if I was replying to you...

Good luck,

Yuri
No worries!!

I think I'm just giving up at this point. I'm going to return all my Harbor Freight tools tomorrow and just take it somewhere next week. Don't really care how much it costs, I have a 1,000+ miles trip next weekend and the weekend after that and then another one two weekends after that and no time to mess with it except for this weekend and I just want to go to the beach and hang with my wife and dog, not be stuck in the garage. I'm truly disappointed in myself though, it's just that damn axle is STUCK!! I can't even take the whole assembly off and take it somewhere because of the axle being stuck. I'm not trying to undo the axle from the differential or anything.

Anyways, goodnight fellas...
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Old May 26th, 2012, 06:56   #288
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Originally Posted by Thirstyturtle328 View Post
Got the axle nut, wheel, caliper, and rotor off pretty easily. Now I'm at the point of pushing the axle out through the hub.
Stupid question - did you unbolt the balljoint plate on the bottom of the control arm to let the steering knuckle swing out?
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Old May 26th, 2012, 08:31   #289
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Stupid question - did you unbolt the balljoint plate on the bottom of the control arm to let the steering knuckle swing out?
Not a stupid question!! Although I wouldn't be surprised if I made a mistake like that, it's not the case. I did in fact unbolt the plate to allow some wiggle room for removing the axle.

I packed it in guys. Put everything back together (luckily I didn't damage anything), replaced my pads and rotors as planned (she's braking so smooth now!) and I'm going to return my HF tools and take it to a shop this week and let them deal with it I reckon.

I really appreciate all the help but at the end of the day I just don't have the right tools to unfuse the axle splines from the hub.

Good luck to everyone who tries this, I think mine was particularly rusty and that is/was the problem.
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Old May 26th, 2012, 08:33   #290
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When you get the car back, ask them how they got the drive axle out. That is an odd occurance.

--Nate
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Old May 26th, 2012, 09:51   #291
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Well just ran to the farmer's market downtown and I noticed a lack of wheel bearing noise...strange.

I went to a parking lot and did some typical maneuvers that ALWAYS caused the noise and it's gone...yay?

I think I'll just wait for it to come back and then take it to a shop to have it fixed. I know it's the front passenger wheel though because you can shake the wheel a decent amount when grabbed on two sides and when the wheel was off the hub was somewhat loose. Anyways, I'll keep people updated I guess.

PS_I torqued the axle nut as hard as I could with a 25" breaker bar (I'm guessing about 260 ft-lbs) is that enough?
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Old May 26th, 2012, 12:21   #292
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Who knows... maybe someone once put red LocTite on the splines...

Yuri.
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Old May 29th, 2012, 11:54   #293
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Called around today and got some quotes for doing my wheel bearing. Dropped it off at German Speed Merchants who quoted me $200 (labor only, I have the parts).

Well I gotta tell you, I spent $200 in tools at Harbor Freight. Most people on this thread stated $400 and $500 for the repair which really put me off but $200 isn't bad if you only have 1 to replace. I realize if you have to replace another one in the future then the savings add up but I'm honestly kind of happy it didn't work out for me.

BUT, well see if they get my axle out of my hub, that's the rub. May end you being more than $200 at the end of the day.
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Old May 29th, 2012, 15:27   #294
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Well, I just successfully replaced the passenger side wheel bearing on the 99.5. Bought the Harbor Freight 12ton press and had a 20% off coupon so the whole thing only cost me ~$100.

Like its been mentioned above, its a little tricky because there is no flat spots on the knuckle to press on. I used a 4x4 and 2x4 wood blocks to support the knuckle and it worked like a champ! Man, was that bearing race TIGHT! I thought I was going to break the press, but it finally popped free. I can't imagine trying to do this on the car with a threaded puller.

It was pretty easy to pull the whole knuckle off too. Top strut nut, tie rod, three ball joint bolts, ABS sensor and the whole thing comes right off.

Now for the good/bad news, my noise is still there, but it seems much quieter now. I inspected the races and there was some very small pitting starting on the inner one. Nothing like the one pictured above though.

I think I am going to do the drivers side bearing and see if it totally eliminates the sound. I hate doing the same job again.
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Old May 29th, 2012, 17:25   #295
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I did my drivers side this weekend with a home made tool that I had one of the guys in our fab shop make up for me. Total cost, 1/5 bottle of whiskey. Took me about 4 hours to do. Once I had the axle out I decided to give the hub a spin. It sounded like it had no grease in it what so ever. When it came out there was still lots of grease in it. I need to take the other race off and see what the bearings look like. The side that came with the hub looked good. Started to do the passenger side, mainly because I had no idea which one was bad, but decided to check to see what it sounded like with the axle out of the hub. It was nice a quiet. My ride in to work this morning was nice and quiet, no howling or growling.

Thanks Scurvy
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Old May 29th, 2012, 18:17   #296
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I've got three quote so far (one more coming) to replace both front wheel bearings on my '03 wagon:

- stealership: $688
- import auto place: $670 (including alignment which they said was necessary)
- fav muffler/brake shop: $290

Still waiting for my favorite mechanic, who usually only works on domestic cars, but said a wheel bearing is a wheel bearing.

But the muffler/brake place is obviously at the top of the list. They're not a chain, local owned place for 40 yrs, good reputation and I've had a lot of stuff done there with no problems. They were $70 for wheel bearing kit and $75 for labor per side. I think they underestimated labor, but you couldn't beat that, if the work was done well.

I do not have the impression that an alignment would be required. The import auto shop mentioned taking off the tie rods or some other suspension component and I don't remember that as a part of scurvy's write-up.
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Old May 29th, 2012, 18:36   #297
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Originally Posted by 79TA7.6 View Post
I did my drivers side this weekend with a home made tool that I had one of the guys in our fab shop make up for me. Total cost, 1/5 bottle of whiskey.
...
Thanks Scurvy
No problem. I'll be glad to take any donations of whiskey as well.

(edit: but I'd like the entire bottle!)
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Old May 29th, 2012, 19:01   #298
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I do not have the impression that an alignment would be required. The import auto shop mentioned taking off the tie rods or some other suspension component and I don't remember that as a part of scurvy's write-up.
I haven't aligned my car since I did both front wheel bearings and my tires have worn very evenly for the past 97k km. The tires will be getting replaced before winter and I will get an alignment at that time.

The import shop may opt to remove whatever they want, especially if they're realigning it afterwards.
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Old May 31st, 2012, 06:59   #299
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Had a local shop replace my front right bearing for $212 (labor only). I was certain it was the right aide because the sound came from that side, happened when turning left, and I jacked you each side and shook the wheel, left side tight, right side wobbled. However, the sound is still there and it's definitely coming from the right side.

What could it be other than the wheel bearing? I've never ever noticed the noise at high speeds. Only when turning sharply to the left and only when accelerating.
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Old June 3rd, 2012, 13:34   #300
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Quote:
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To be certain which one is bad, put the front end of the car up on jackstands. Put parking brake on. With car idling, put it in 5th gear and let the clutch out. The side with the bad bearing should be making that gawdawful racket.
I'm not sure how reliable this test is. I think I can hear bearing noise on the passenger side only if I have my ear in the wheel well while the car is idling in 6th, but it's not very loud, certainly not as loud as it is in the cabin driving down the road at the same speed.

When the noise first started about 20K ago it was only audible in 6th on smooth pavement and would stop when turning left, which convinced me it must be a front wheel bearing. It has slowly gotten worse and is now audible in the lower gears and doesn't change when cornering. It sounds to me like it's passenger side, but I'm still not completely convinced.

Simon
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