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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old May 18th, 2012, 00:57   #31
KLXD
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My Genuine Bentley Book that covers through 2005 says 30 ft-lb plus 90 degrees for the idler. 33 ft-lb for the mount to block bolts on the ALH engines.
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Old May 18th, 2012, 06:07   #32
crobinson16
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thank you verry much , boy 33lbs for those bolts into the block for the motor monut just dosent seem like much
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Old May 19th, 2012, 13:51   #33
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well I finally got time to day to finish the tb job and I have it all back together and running so far so good, only question is the tensioner I set it to were the notch and line match up but when I would turn it over by hand and stop it would change sometimes it would be right some times it would not be , I think it has to do whether there is compression trying to turn back the belt against the tenisioner, I guess I should run it awhile then check it when its cold again, also I set the inj pump to 65 at 110 , boy just a little I mean very little movement changes that setting allot, but after its all said and done it runs way better than before, very snappy, and ever so lightly turbo lag but not like before, I guess thats normal , thanks to everyone who helped with info
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Old May 20th, 2012, 14:25   #34
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I have seen mark and pray method used. The reason you lock the cam and pump and crank is because when you tension the tensioner it moves both the pump and cam counterclock wise. The belt actually pulls them. I own VW's and have done a lot of these, both diesels 1.9 and 1.8 and 2.0 gassers. The gassers are easy, but the 1.9 will turn everything out of time when you tension the tensioner. I and a buddy did a really good mark and pray on a 1.9, but used a canister of finger nail polish to mark cam and pump position and between the two of us, him holding the wrench on the pump and cam sprocket, I set the tensioner and tightened. We set the crank at tdc first this do always, I do not recommend this method because as I said when you tension the tensioner on a TDI everything moves. Also once the tensioner is tightened tork the nut to spec. Tension it clockwise by inserting tool in pin holes and turning in a clockwise direction. Hint if belt squeals its too tight you should be able to put fingers on it and twist flex at area between pump and cam sprocket it back and forth about an eighth or 1/16 of an inch after tensioned. The sprockets on a TDI are wide and prevent twist play. I always use 35 ft lbs on tensioner nut I don't over do it . I have a Metalnerd tool for tensioners. I do not recommend anything I just discussed here, the pray and mark method is an out of need and desperation method. Primarily the belt needs changed now and don't have the lockout kit. Then on the 1.9 take your VCDS and check pump timing and adjust if needed.

Last edited by vwdieseling; May 21st, 2012 at 06:44. Reason: added to post.
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Old May 20th, 2012, 14:41   #35
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Paralux vision is technicians worst friend, "I saw it backwards from up front, behind then turned it like I was behind but up front." The reason that evan mirrors don't help and only distort. An intersting topic for the shade tree mechanic in me. Which was the start of my passion and love for automobiles. If its criticle I will mark as well as pin. Saves waiting for that no start and removing the head with bent valves and smiley faces on the pistons. Or ten miles down the road getting it after a horrible sound. Attention to detail is necessary when doing TB change, double check everything before cranking could save you a 1000.00 dollars.
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Old May 20th, 2012, 14:42   #36
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Even if the "mark & pray" method is done spot on, if the valve and/or injection timing was off in the first place, it will still will be off.

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Old May 20th, 2012, 14:53   #37
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I agree, I said I didn't recommend mark and pray method. I alway check pump timing first anyway before locking out everything just out of GP. If you have TDI checker with your VCDS you should know that. Going in blind is coming out behind. That way after belt is intalled I have a reference.

Last edited by vwdieseling; May 22nd, 2012 at 14:40. Reason: Added
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Old May 20th, 2012, 17:31   #38
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i did not use the mark and pray, i was only asking about the tensioner, and Paralux vision is not affecting my judgment, just wondering if i should readjust it or not
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Old May 21st, 2012, 06:39   #39
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You can, the tensioner will always jump a little its doing its job. If its keeping the belt tensioned its good. Check the belt tension at the location between IP sprocket and cam sprocket between the top roller. Twist the belt with your fingers it to check. Do this after you idle the engine and rev it to 2500 or 3000 rpms. Twist again if it feels the same, as far as tension your good. For Gods sake man trust yourself. Just kidding. I hate to say this but we learn from our experiances. My first TB change was nothing short of total fear and nervous breakdown. I let it idle in the driveway for 20 minuets till I got the balls to rev the engine to simulate highway. "Your the Man" That vision thing is just what it is interesting BS. You probably saved $ 600.00 to the 850.00 charged for TB workblock by a shop. Minus 250.00 for TB kit. Kevlar belts when will they have them for 1.9 TDI?

Last edited by vwdieseling; May 21st, 2012 at 06:57. Reason: Added to post
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Old May 22nd, 2012, 14:39   #40
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Heres a link www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vv9hW7US5fk this might help.
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