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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas

VW MKV-A5 Golf/Jettas Discussions area for A5/MkV Jetta/Golf (2005/2006 PD and 2009 CR).

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Old April 29th, 2012, 21:13   #16
ecaddy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fanw01 View Post
I did test the actuator, the actuator does not hold vacuum. I know the actuator is bad but I really don't want to buy a new turbo for just a bad actuator.

After you replaced you turbo did you have any additional adjustments to make on the actuator? Do you know of a good repair manual for the VW? I have the Bentley Service manual.


I bought the turbo from a seller on ebay for $800 plus a $100 core. My old turbo is good so I will just sell the turbo without actuator on ebay and get more than what the core return is worth.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300527554417...84.m1439.l2649

Nice unit with no issues. The actuator bar was set at a different spot than my old one but they clearly marked it with red glue stuff so if I moved it they could tell. I left it alone and installed it that way. I then data logged it and this is what I got:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78986143@N02/6981005126/

If you have a Bently manual you have a lot more than I had, which was nothing. It took a good 8 hours to do but it really wasn't that hard. Replacing the dmf was a lot worse. I pulled the turbo out from the top of the motor but it could be done from underneath also. I drove the car up on ramps and not jack stands so I was not able to remove the passenger side axle, that is why I went out the top. I can give some help if you have questions, I don't know how detailed the manual is.

I did not find any write up on the internet for the 2006 turbo removal, and I looked a lot for one. If you are located near me I would be happy to donate some time to lend a hand.
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Old April 30th, 2012, 21:57   #17
fanw01
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Default 2006 Jetta 1.9L PD TDI (BRM) code P0299

Quote:
Originally Posted by ecaddy View Post
I bought the turbo from a seller on ebay for $800 plus a $100 core. My old turbo is good so I will just sell the turbo without actuator on ebay and get more than what the core return is worth.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300527554417...84.m1439.l2649

Nice unit with no issues. The actuator bar was set at a different spot than my old one but they clearly marked it with red glue stuff so if I moved it they could tell. I left it alone and installed it that way. I then data logged it and this is what I got:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78986143@N02/6981005126/

If you have a Bently manual you have a lot more than I had, which was nothing. It took a good 8 hours to do but it really wasn't that hard. Replacing the dmf was a lot worse. I pulled the turbo out from the top of the motor but it could be done from underneath also. I drove the car up on ramps and not jack stands so I was not able to remove the passenger side axle, that is why I went out the top. I can give some help if you have questions, I don't know how detailed the manual is.

I did not find any write up on the internet for the 2006 turbo removal, and I looked a lot for one. If you are located near me I would be happy to donate some time to lend a hand.
Thanks for the information you have been a big help. I am going to purchase a new turbo for my car also. I don't want to fight with modifications to a turbo and EGR tube at this time. I was thinking of replacing the turbo with a Garrett turbo but at this time there is not a good match for a Garrett turbo with a smart actuator that would not require modifications to the smart actuator or EGR tube. I do know I will not pay the stealership $2700-$3300 to replace the turbo.

Thanks for the offer to help out but I live in Nebraska so not that close to Illinois.
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Old May 25th, 2013, 08:36   #18
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Originally Posted by fanw01 View Post
Hi all, I am new to the site and a new TDI owner. I purchased my TDI in Oct 2011 and now having a problem.

I have a 2006 Jetta 1.9L PD TDI (BRM) with 92,000 miles; I am having the following problem. I purchased the car with 87,000 miles and now have 92,000 miles, while driving the check engine light came on and the car went into limp mode. When I checked the codes with my OB2 scanner the code retrieved was “P0299 under Boost condition”. I took the car to the dealer and they wanted to install a new turbo for the car. I did not allow them to install the turbo at a cost of $2900.00. I cleared the code and got the car out of limp mode. This problem is happening about twice a month. When I view the freeze frame data on my scanner, the condition is happening at or around 45-60mph. If it happens on the highway the cruise control will shut off also which I would expect. After searching on this site I am seeing that this is a common problem with the TDI’s. Where should I start my troubleshooting? I am pretty handy working on cars and have tools needed or will buy the tools needed.

I think the turbo actuator is the problem. After checking vacuum at the actuator, the actuator will not hold vacuum. Does anyone know if there are Turbo repair kits for the 2006 TDI (BRM)?

I'm having a very similar problem only I’m getting 2 codes. 1 is the P0299 Control Range Not Reached and the other is the P0102 Signal too Low – Intermittent. The P0102 is the MAF Sensor. When pulling a hill my 06 BRM goes in a “loss of power” mode. I don’t think it’s “limp mode” from what I’ve been reading. Limp mode is when your VW or Audi TDI suddenly loses power while driving and is restored after you turn the car off and back on. That is not my case. I do get a sudden lose of power but it’s not restored by a key cycle. In order to get power back I have to clear the code with a OBD reader. If I pull over and unplug the MAF the “loose of power” goes away and I’m back in business. From what I’ve been reading on this forum that tells me the MAF is bad. But before I go and buy the replacement MAF I want to make sure that is in fact the problem. The only thing stopping me is the PO299 Code but if the MAF is not working properly it will send a code to the computer putting it in a low power mode. I’m assuming the P0299 code is the lack of fuel caused by the MAF putting the computer in a low power mode. Does that make sense?
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Last edited by Cliffman; May 25th, 2013 at 08:40.
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Old May 25th, 2013, 10:04   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ecaddy View Post
I bought the turbo from a seller on ebay for $800 plus a $100 core. My old turbo is good so I will just sell the turbo without actuator on ebay and get more than what the core return is worth.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300527554417...84.m1439.l2649
Why would there be a core on a new part? Prothe? Chinese knock off/rebuild? Let us know if it grenades within 10 to 20K miles or so................
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Old May 25th, 2013, 14:00   #20
ecaddy
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Default Do it yourself

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Originally Posted by fanw01 View Post
Thanks for the information you have been a big help. I am going to purchase a new turbo for my car also. I don't want to fight with modifications to a turbo and EGR tube at this time. I was thinking of replacing the turbo with a Garrett turbo but at this time there is not a good match for a Garrett turbo with a smart actuator that would not require modifications to the smart actuator or EGR tube. I do know I will not pay the stealership $2700-$3300 to replace the turbo.

Thanks for the offer to help out but I live in Nebraska so not that close to Illinois.

There is no rebuild kit for the electronic actuator and there is not one available for purchase anywhere.

You are going to have to purchase the entire turbo and replacement.

Replace the turbo yourself, it is not difficult and you will save a ton of money.

You might as well do the egr mod while your at it, if you drop the turbo underneath the car you will have to remove it anyway. After you do the egr mod you will have to have Superchips do a mild level 1 mod on your ecu to keep the engine light off.

Good luck! Not hard but it will take a little time.
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Old May 25th, 2013, 14:03   #21
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Default Chinese ??

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Originally Posted by Ol'Rattler View Post
Why would there be a core on a new part? Prothe? Chinese knock off/rebuild? Let us know if it grenades within 10 to 20K miles or so................

Yes, there was a core charge. Borg Warner doesn't make there turbo's in China now, do they?

I have 30k on the new turbo and no problems. Bought it off of eBay
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Old May 25th, 2013, 14:06   #22
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Default Boost actuator

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Originally Posted by Cliffman View Post
I'm having a very similar problem only Iím getting 2 codes. 1 is the P0299 Control Range Not Reached and the other is the P0102 Signal too Low Ė Intermittent. The P0102 is the MAF Sensor. When pulling a hill my 06 BRM goes in a ďloss of powerĒ mode. I donít think itís ďlimp modeĒ from what Iíve been reading. Limp mode is when your VW or Audi TDI suddenly loses power while driving and is restored after you turn the car off and back on. That is not my case. I do get a sudden lose of power but itís not restored by a key cycle. In order to get power back I have to clear the code with a OBD reader. If I pull over and unplug the MAF the ďloose of powerĒ goes away and Iím back in business. From what Iíve been reading on this forum that tells me the MAF is bad. But before I go and buy the replacement MAF I want to make sure that is in fact the problem. The only thing stopping me is the PO299 Code but if the MAF is not working properly it will send a code to the computer putting it in a low power mode. Iím assuming the P0299 code is the lack of fuel caused by the MAF putting the computer in a low power mode. Does that make sense?
Check your boost actuator with a vacuum pump from the autopart store. Autozone sells one that will be perfect for what you are testing.
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Old May 26th, 2013, 04:10   #23
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http://www.idparts.com/catalog/produ...oducts_id=3218
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Old May 26th, 2013, 06:01   #24
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Originally Posted by ecaddy View Post
Check your boost actuator with a vacuum pump from the autopart store. Autozone sells one that will be perfect for what you are testing.
I guess I should do the test just to rule it out but I don't see how that could possibly be the problem given the fact that when it goes into "wimp mode" (thatís what I call it cuz it's not "Limp Mode") all I have to do is unplug the MAF sensor and Whaaalaaaa, got all my power back. The boost actuator is a mechanical device that I donít believe can be fixed by unplugging the MAF. Please correct me if Iím wrong.
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Old May 27th, 2013, 10:03   #25
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I hate to tell you, but you may have 2 issues. Your symptoms of a loss of power up hills does sound like the actuator. An easier way test, is have someone else start the car while you watch the actuator rod, if it extends slowly upon startup it is working, if it tries to extend and you have to help it down with a regular screwdriver it is bad. Your exhaust will also sound loud and airy at idle if it is broke. I drove around for 17k miles with it broke, and it didn't always go until limp mode up hills because shifting down to raise the rpm over 2200 would prevent it.
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Old May 27th, 2013, 14:31   #26
ecaddy
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Originally Posted by Mechnurse View Post

The 2005 2006 Jetta TDI use a electronic boost actuator. This will not work for these 2 years. Look at your actuator before buying a new one
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Old May 27th, 2013, 14:36   #27
ecaddy
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Originally Posted by Cliffman View Post
I guess I should do the test just to rule it out but I don't see how that could possibly be the problem given the fact that when it goes into "wimp mode" (thatís what I call it cuz it's not "Limp Mode") all I have to do is unplug the MAF sensor and Whaaalaaaa, got all my power back. The boost actuator is a mechanical device that I donít believe can be fixed by unplugging the MAF. Please correct me if Iím wrong.

When you put the handheld vacuum pump on the actuator did the bar move and stay in that position? If you went right back then your actuator is bad and you will need to replace the turbo.

The actuator is electronic for the 2005 and 2006 Jetta TDI.

If you have a data cable that will give you some additional info that will be helpful. The Ross-Tech VCDS I use is very good. Post your logs if you need additional help
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Old May 27th, 2013, 15:14   #28
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Actually the actuator mentioned in post #26 as not fitting WILL INDEED fit the 2005.5, 2006, 2007 Jettas. These cars have the BRM motors and require the expensive electronic position feedback vacuum operator pictured in the add from IDParts.com. When in doubt read the label on top of the timing belt cover.

But there is nothing to show he needs a new actuator, yet.
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Old May 27th, 2013, 21:00   #29
ecaddy
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Actually the actuator mentioned in post #26 as not fitting WILL INDEED fit the 2005.5, 2006, 2007 Jettas. These cars have the BRM motors and require the expensive electronic position feedback vacuum operator pictured in the add from IDParts.com. When in doubt read the label on top of the timing belt cover.

But there is nothing to show he needs a new actuator, yet.

You are correct, after enlarging the picture it does look like an electronic actuator. Wish these were out when I needed them. At first glance it appeared to be a vacuum actuator and those will not work.
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Old May 28th, 2013, 03:53   #30
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Originally Posted by scrichy84 View Post
I hate to tell you, but you may have 2 issues. Your symptoms of a loss of power up hills does sound like the actuator. An easier way test, is have someone else start the car while you watch the actuator rod, if it extends slowly upon startup it is working, if it tries to extend and you have to help it down with a regular screwdriver it is bad. Your exhaust will also sound loud and airy at idle if it is broke. I drove around for 17k miles with it broke, and it didn't always go until limp mode up hills because shifting down to raise the rpm over 2200 would prevent it.
I love to but the turbo seems to be hidden behind the engine.
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