FS: 2001 Golf GLS TDI 5M (Los Angeles area)
I'm selling my 2001 Golf TDI GLS with 185k miles. I'm the original owner.
- ALH engine
- Black paint/black cloth interior
- 5 speed manual
- Power moonroof
- 15" alloys
- Consistently gets 45 mpg during 80-85 mpg road trips. Gets closer to 50 mpg if I slow down. It got 62 mpg during the MPG rally at TDIFest in MI in 2002!
The main reason I am selling this now is that it has a leaking injection pump. I don't have a place to wrench on my cars anymore and I need a reliable vehicle for commuting and long road trips, so I've decided it's time to pass my baby on to someone who wants to fix her up and run her another 200k+ miles. I ran B100 for about 30k miles several years ago, and when I switched back to petroleum I got the dreaded weeping pump. I replaced the three serviceable-on-engine seals about 50-60k ago which fixed the problem. Now fuel is dripping out of the center bolt on the delivery head when the engine is running, about a drip per second. This may just require a real reseal job, or it may require a pump rebuild/replace. The leaking did start quite suddenly, so I'm thinking that it's a seal that failed inside the pump.
Other than the fuel pump, the car drives like a dream, has some nice mods and I've dumped a decent amount of $$$ on maintenance in the last year. The body and electricals have some warts, which I will mention below:
- VNT17 turbo
- PP520 injectors
- RocketChip RC3
- Bilstein TCs and idparts suspension refresh kit with Audi TT bushings and new tie rod ends installed by Matt in Santa Maria 1 year ago (20-25k miles on the car since then)
- VDO boost gauge on A-pillar, plus oil temp, oil press and voltage gauges in dash cubby slot
- Alpine head unit with CD player, iPod connector (routed to glove box) and in-unit iPod control
- Hidden hitch
- New timing belt, water pump, EGR assembly and main crank seal installed by Harv at 150k. 100k belt is good until 250k.
- New (<5k miles) Toyo Versado tires on all 4 corners and fresh alignment
- New battery installed last December
- Full synthetic oil at 10k changes. Most recently I've been using M-1 T&SUV, but I have used Lubro Moly and full-synth Delvac in the past.
Other, ahem, issues
- Paint job is OK, but there are some rock chips in the hood and a few scratches and dents. NO RUST. This car lived the first two years of it's life in Atlanta, GA and the remainder in Los Angeles.
- Rear bumper has scratches and some paint transfer from a parking lot hit-n-run several years back.
- Windshield has a couple of chips and one large (~15" long) crack from a rock strike. Crack has stopped growing, but the windshield really needs to be replaced.
- Interior is in good shape, other than part of the driver's seat left bolster has worn through the upholstery. I'm fat and apparently have abused that bolster getting in and out of the car over the years.
- Electrical: Driver's door open switch not working, driver's door unlock switch not working (but remote and passenger side switch works), rear hatch latch closure relay not working (hatch closes and latches but will not lock, although the alarm will sound if you open it with the alarm armed). Note that a drain hole was put in to the coolant sensor socket very early in this car's life, so the chances of there being any coolant migration are minimal.
Overall, other than the fuel pump, windshield and some electrical gremlins which are likely just failed switches or connections (especially common in the door on this model), this car is mechanically sound and drives wonderfully. I will miss it terribly. A significant amount of maintenance has been done in the last year. With some TLC it should easily be good for a couple hundred thousand more miles.
Asking $6000 OBO. Located in La Habra, CA.
Last edited by Davin; April 24th, 2012 at 12:44.