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Non VW Group Diesels This section is for discusion of Non VWGroup Diesels.

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Old April 19th, 2012, 19:44   #1
KALaBenne
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Default Injector bleeding '82 300D

Hey guys, I'm needing a little help with an '82 MB 300D.

I replaced the primer pump and it didn't seem to have any resistance when I pumped it, so I then replaced the first fuel filter and I thought it was pumping correctly. Would't start. Replaced the main fuel filter, still no start. Replaced both fuel lines on either side of the first fuel filter thinking I had a leak, still no start. I think I need to bleed the injectors.

So, I'm going to loosen slightly the top nut where each metal fuel line goes into the top of the injector while a friend tries to start it for a few seconds, right? My big question is, what kind of 17mm wrench do I need to use? It just doesn't look like there's any room to manuver a standard wrench in among the injector lines and throttle linkage. Any tips, tricks or warnings?

Thanks in advance for any help you're able to offer,
Keith
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Old April 22nd, 2012, 20:30   #2
KALaBenne
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Well, I found a stubby 17mm open-ended wrench that I could maneuver under the hard injectors lines, and was able to get to all of them, but still could not get it going. Will try again tomorrow after the battery has a chance to charge.
My new question: Is there an order I should bleed them in? And, how much fuel should I let escape? Or I guess, how long do I let it go before I tighten it?
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Old April 22nd, 2012, 21:31   #3
Seatman
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I don't know much about that engine but if fuel's coming out the tops of the injectors while cranking then it should be primed enough. Did you tighten them all one at a time while the car was still cranking?

Has the car ever run? Did it just stop working one day? It might be an idea to add some background info for folk so they can have a better understanding of the problem.
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Old April 22nd, 2012, 23:21   #4
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if the priming plunger isn't yet firm, there's still air in the low-pressure circuit; I'd ensure that side is sorted first.
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 07:19   #5
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Here's the backround: Car was a victim of the April tornados of last year, had a tree fall on it, moved once and sat for a year. I started driving it around St. Patrick's day and it ran fine for about three weeks (other than feeling like it ran out of fuel then only took 14.5 gal). I drove aproximately 1000 miles during this time. On Easter, the car started once and then would not restart because of a failure in the ignition switch. While waiting on parts, I replaced the primer pump and was getting no resistance when I tried to reprime it. Tried to start the engine anyway (Dumb, I know) and got air in the injection lines. Replaced both fuel filters and the primer pump began working as it should. Tried opening injector lines yesterday and ran the battery down trying to get it going.

I'm fairly certain I have something biological growing in the tank (based on what the pre-filter looked like) but it's completely full so draining it to get to the tank screen will be very tricky. I dumped a shot of Killem biocide in the tank and maybe that will kill the critters in the tank.

Can anyone tell me if there is a required order to bleeding the injectors?

Thanks for the replies,
Keith
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Old April 23rd, 2012, 15:27   #6
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Why not get a clean can of fuel and run the fuel pipes to it to test, if it fires up you'll know it must be the tank and it's time to get the syphon out

Regarding any order for bleeding, anytime I've bled the injectors on a diesel I've always just shut the lines as the fuel comes through regardless which order they were in.
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Old April 24th, 2012, 13:25   #7
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Their is an in-tank fuel screen which can become clogged. It is accessed for cleaning from the bottom and is a bit of a PITA to remove without the proper tool due to location, I used a large socket with vice grip on it. Seatman's suggestion to run direct from a can of diesel is a good one.
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Old April 25th, 2012, 17:23   #8
KALaBenne
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I tried hooking up the engine to an independent fuel source, diesel purge in a pickle jar, opend all the injectors and shut each as I saw fuel coming out. If I let it have a good long glow-plug cycle, it will start for just a few seconds and die like it's loosing fuel. I think after letting the battery charge up a bit I will try starting with one injector line open at a time and see if I can't get it to run.
I've got the ignition assembly plug dangling under the dash with a replacement switch because an ignition failure is what started this adventure. Is there a possibility that the engine shut-off is working against me?
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Old April 26th, 2012, 16:12   #9
KALaBenne
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I got it started!
Apparently, the issue (after getting the injectors bled) was the engine shut-off valve that was working correctly. The ignition assembly it is hooked to via vacuum lines was in the off position while the electrical plug had been removed and was hanging under the dash with it's new switch. I was just using a screwdriver to turn it cycling the glow-plugs and starter. Once I unhooked one of the vacuum lines it ran no problem.

Thanks again for all your help and advice,
Keith
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Delete - dealer, vent, chime, DRLs, Ceramic GP's, BS CHAIN
Add - auto unlock, sebring stubby, sunglass holder

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Old April 26th, 2012, 16:56   #10
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Cool, glad to hear it's working now, you'll be the new 82 MB 300D guru now
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