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VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old April 6th, 2012, 05:42   #16
xdrift0rx
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Thank you for the links everyone! The car itself has around 265k miles on it. It was previously owned by a diesel mechanic though. The car hasn't given me any issues in the 6 months I've owned it except for the n75 valve, and now the fuel cut-off solenoid.

Baron, I am located in Wilmington, Delaware. 150-200$ for reassembly sounds good.

My other car is an RX7 so I'm not too sure how this fancy piston engines work . Just kidding. In all seriousness this is my first diesel and I did not expect that to happen!


edit: is this the right DFIS page? http://www.dfispdx.com/contact.html There arent any phone numbers to call! and their submit a message thing is broken.

Last edited by xdrift0rx; April 6th, 2012 at 05:44.
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Old April 6th, 2012, 06:49   #17
beetle1963
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I have a used one off a 2001 stick worked when pulled $175+ shipping
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Old April 6th, 2012, 07:06   #18
migbro
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xdrift0rx View Post
edit: is this the right DFIS page? http://www.dfispdx.com/contact.html There arent any phone numbers to call! and their submit a message thing is broken.
That's the correct web site. Looks like they're updating their site and it's incomplete right now. Here are their phone numbers:
503-235-1947
888-285-1213
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Old April 6th, 2012, 07:23   #19
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The DFIS website really needs help. Go to the "about" page. They have all of these links to what people have said about DFIS and it's like they searched for "DFIS" and just grabbed the first post they found for various people. And to show they don't really know uch about websites, they picked one of my posts as well. ***???

But just because they can't build a good website doesn't mean that they can't build a pump.
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Old April 6th, 2012, 07:34   #20
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http://www.diesel-forumas.lt/downloa..._pump_head.pdf
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Old April 8th, 2012, 08:01   #21
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If you do it yourself, keep in mind:

You'll need a seal kit. The existing ones are too old and hard to reuse.

After you get it back together it will require the hammer mod to get the IQ adjusted.

The solenoid was probably ok. I would bet on an wiring problem. VCDS can't detect a nonfunctioning solenoid, only an electrical fault. An internal short or open would be flagged but a bad external wire is far more likely.

It could have been checked out without removing it. Don't mean to kick you when you're down, might help the next guy.
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Old April 9th, 2012, 08:52   #22
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Quote:
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Me too. Thanks, Oilhammer! But it is "tooefed", not "toofed."

Grammar n@zi signing off.
My bad, I thought the first 'e' was silent.
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Old April 9th, 2012, 13:01   #23
G60ING
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I had to grind the snot out of a 24mm socket to remove the fuel shut off solenoid on my car. Then I had to use vise grips on the socket. It came off but it took a good amount of effort to avoid tooefing it.
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Old April 10th, 2012, 05:56   #24
xdrift0rx
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How HARD would you say it is to reassemble the pump? My biggest worry is making sure all the timing stuff is right. I have plenty of tools to get the job done. I don't mind sending it out, but if I can save some money I'd prefer to do it myself.

Edit:

I came across the website www.injection-pump.com and figured I would try this myself before sending it out. I picked out a seal kit with triangle bolt for 23$ a timing belt kit with locking tools for 75$ and a replacement belt tensioner because its been squeaking for 34$. Total comes to $141 with shipping.

Is it worth trying to do this myself? The link gmenouous included seemed to be the ticket I needed to get this done. I'd much rather be putting this money towards my turbo build for the RX7....

Last edited by xdrift0rx; April 10th, 2012 at 06:28.
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Old April 10th, 2012, 06:07   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xdrift0rx View Post
How HARD would you say it is to reassemble the pump? My biggest worry is making sure all the timing stuff is right. I have plenty of tools to get the job done. I don't mind sending it out, but if I can save some money I'd prefer to do it myself.
See the .pdf I posted a link to. I thought it was pretty easy. I put my own pump back together using those instructions. The pump rotates normally with nothing rattling around inside. However I haven't put it back on the car to try it out as I had already installed a used replacement pump by the time I got around to reassembling the original. I'll be due for a timing belt in 500 miles so I could put it back in then, but I may just stick with what's working.

You will need the triangular socket to take off the quantity adjuster.

Greg
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Old April 10th, 2012, 06:32   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xdrift0rx View Post
Edit:

I came across the website www.injection-pump.com and figured I would try this myself before sending it out. I picked out a seal kit with triangle bolt for 23$ a timing belt kit with locking tools for 75$ and a replacement belt tensioner because its been squeaking for 34$. Total comes to $141 with shipping.
Many people here have had not just bad luck, but horrible luck with the stuff sold from that site. Others have had great luck because they are the guys that fix the stuff that breaks when someone gets garbage parts from that site, or others by Prothe.
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Old May 18th, 2012, 12:01   #27
xdrift0rx
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Well...I'm gonna be pulling the injection pump tonight. is there any marks i need to make to make sure when i put the pulley back on it is in the correct spot?
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Old May 18th, 2012, 20:33   #28
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Get all the parameters set to #1 TDC and locked - as if you were doing a timing belt job. Can't remember if mk3 has snout-to-timing cover backing plate index marks on snout and plate like the mk1 and mk2 off hand - but paint dobs could be made to mark orientation - on snout and backing plate.

Break the cam sprocket bolt loose - will come in handy to do it now instead of waiting until you re-install the belt.

Break the Inj Pump sprocket nut loose - probably will need a puller for removing the sprocket. Should be an index mark on outer lip of pump sprocket at about 12 o'clock. Sprocket and shaft are keyed.
Make note or drawing of keyway orientation location on shaft.
Should be about 10 o'clock.
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Old May 18th, 2012, 21:03   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xdrift0rx View Post
a replacement belt tensioner
*This* I would pitch out asap and replace it with a proper OEM tensioner...very bad things happen if it fails...and if you search for "Prothe" you'll read about a lot of fail.

The triangular bolt socket and timing belt locking tools will be fine... and the seals can but leak.
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Old May 19th, 2012, 10:43   #30
xdrift0rx
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Okay so I followed the myturbodiesel.com instructions for removing the timing belt, and then took the injection pump out, followed the diesel-forumas.lt guide to the tee and got it all back together. i assembled it and wiped all the parts down in fresh diesel as a lubricant during assembly. I got the pump back in, the key in place and then locked it into place with the injection pump lock tool. I got the new timing belt on and made sure the crankshaft was aligned where the flywheel is location, made sure the camshaft was locked also and put the belt on. I didnt get a tensioner tool from metalnerd...so I'm trying to find someone local who has one I can borrow.

Once I get the tensioner tight I think its a matter of simple assembly. The diesel-forumas.lt guide was excellent and should be a sticky or something!

Anyone in the delaware tristate area? I'd be willing to drive half hour to an hour to borrow the tensioner tool...

Thanks for your help everybody! cant wait to have my jetta back on the road!
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