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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs

VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed.

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Old March 26th, 2012, 16:57   #16
vwmttek
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You can probably fix your leaky injector lines. I had that issue with mine after taking off one. Take some fine grit sandpaper to the "rounded" end part (part that seats into the injector), if you look closely there will be a small groove worn into it. Sand it smooth and evenly (Carefully). Then I buffed it even smoother with some finer grit.
Rinse it out really well and when you reinstall - make sure its centered tightly while you tighten the nut.
I'd take a picture and show you better, but I don't dare take them off again lol.
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Old March 26th, 2012, 17:17   #17
luceberg
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I think he means the fuel return lines, which are braided rubber originally and can be replaced with viton tubing.
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Old March 26th, 2012, 17:36   #18
mech644
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Looks and sounds good Abacus. I installed a new Kolbenschimdt head on my ALH about 5weeks ago. Had same symptoms as your B4, car could sit overnight in 0*F and pressure cap would still release pressure from the coolant bubble, not sign that I could see that the hg was leaking. You'll be pleased with the results, valve job, clean head, and intake; it will run nice.
The pic of that turbo is the PERFECT reason to find a VNT 15, DP, and N75 from someones MKIV, notch your rear engine mount, and rock on.
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Rest of the fleet, '06 Jetta DSG, no mods; '97 B4(Gone and glad of it); '88 GMC 1500 4x4; '72 Ford C800; '55 Ford 650 tractor; '82 Kubota B7100 HST tractor
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Old March 26th, 2012, 20:16   #19
Abacus
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I don't want to get too outrageous going VNT, and how much will a 15 gain me over the stock turbo, or the K03/04 hybrid I was thinking of when mine pooches? After spending a cool $1k on the head + install, there isn't a ton of money left over.

Luceberg is correct, they were the rubber return lines and they've been replaced.

Thanks BlindViper, I did not know that.

Silver box: thanks, it actually surprised the hell out of me, too, as did the condition of the piston tops. It has never felt sluggish and always pulled hard whenever called upon. Now the Mrs' B4...that needs to have some updates. It may get slightly better mileage, but it feels like I'm driving a moped by comparison.

Car runs flawlessly and the power gain is noticeable, even though I'm on the break-in oil and being somewhat easy on it. The mild smoke under acceleration is also gone, which I'll miss for those tailgaters. Guess I'll just have to live with it.
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'97 B4: 441,000 miles Malone 3, PP520's, Stage 2 cam, SBC3, ARP studs, Westach EGT/Boost, Koni Reds/Yellows, 2 1/4" exhaust, 2.5" Cat, no mufflers or EGR, Evo plate, leathers
'96 B4V: 462,000km (Windex's wagon) Malone 2, PP520's, 6 speed, G60 brakes, leathers, DMF, Evo...
'96 B4 (wife's): 212,000 miles Malone 3, Sprint 205's, Bilstein TC's
HEX-USB-CAN Vag-Com, A3/A4/B4 timing belt tools & manuals, IP socket, alt & specialty tools.

Last edited by Abacus; March 26th, 2012 at 20:25.
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Old March 27th, 2012, 14:58   #20
tdidieselbobny
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You want smoke? Just replace the Sprints w/ PP 520's......
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Old March 28th, 2012, 12:25   #21
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It does start a little hard when cold, not sure of what that's about. I may run a diesel purge through the injectors in case we disturbed something them on removal, but the balance looks great. I had the tops covered while they were out of the car to avoid any contamination.

I also have the timing set at exactly mid graph and before it was at the upper range. I'll adjust it back, but really wanted to get the car running again since I needed it for work.

The IQ remains unchanged at 3.8, I am wondering if I should adjust it? I get a little smoke around 3K, but almost nothing before that.
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'97 B4: 441,000 miles Malone 3, PP520's, Stage 2 cam, SBC3, ARP studs, Westach EGT/Boost, Koni Reds/Yellows, 2 1/4" exhaust, 2.5" Cat, no mufflers or EGR, Evo plate, leathers
'96 B4V: 462,000km (Windex's wagon) Malone 2, PP520's, 6 speed, G60 brakes, leathers, DMF, Evo...
'96 B4 (wife's): 212,000 miles Malone 3, Sprint 205's, Bilstein TC's
HEX-USB-CAN Vag-Com, A3/A4/B4 timing belt tools & manuals, IP socket, alt & specialty tools.
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Old March 29th, 2012, 11:37   #22
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Nice work Abacus! You have kept her up quite well! Glad to hear that you've got it running again, and thanks for the suggestion with regards to additives - I've been adding clean motor oil and some Diesel Kleen at each fill of fuel but have no longevity results to share - I just obtained my first TDI a couple weeks ago.

Thanks for the pictures and for sharing!
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Old March 29th, 2012, 12:07   #23
Abacus
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Thanks. I would not add the motor oil, but only 2 cycle oil, which is designed to be burned. Motor oil is not and is designed as a lubricant only. Just a suggestion.
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'97 B4: 441,000 miles Malone 3, PP520's, Stage 2 cam, SBC3, ARP studs, Westach EGT/Boost, Koni Reds/Yellows, 2 1/4" exhaust, 2.5" Cat, no mufflers or EGR, Evo plate, leathers
'96 B4V: 462,000km (Windex's wagon) Malone 2, PP520's, 6 speed, G60 brakes, leathers, DMF, Evo...
'96 B4 (wife's): 212,000 miles Malone 3, Sprint 205's, Bilstein TC's
HEX-USB-CAN Vag-Com, A3/A4/B4 timing belt tools & manuals, IP socket, alt & specialty tools.
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Old April 5th, 2012, 07:29   #24
moterhead855
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@abacus, could you describe in detail the cooling system issues you were having? im fighting a cooling system demon on my mk4 alh jetta and kinda leaning towards head gasket at this point. the engine runs great though and i thought that a blown head gasket would show performance issues, but like i said it runs great. im building pressure and blowing out the over heat port. ive replaced the thermostat, coolant reservoir/cap and verified good flow through radiator and engine. the bottom hose stays cool and top hose is hot. any ideas? ive pretty much exhausted all of my diag abilities and that of my vw mechanic friends and we're all stumped/frustrated at this point and open to any advice/recomendations. thanks!
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Old April 5th, 2012, 12:02   #25
Abacus
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My car was weird. It always ran flawlessly, had great power, got great mileage, and had no related issues.

Occasionally it would pressurize the coolant bottle, which would dump coolant out the overflow. But, occasionally it would not as well. There were days when I had to top it off (just a few ounces) every time I started the car, and times when I could run a few months without adding coolant. The car would come up to temperature fine and be rock solid at 190 degrees in all weather, unless I was pulling a big hill and then it would heat up and the temp gauge would go over 190, but it never got to over 240 degrees on the gauge. Around town it was fine and it did not get better or worse. I went to the ARP2000 head studs, but these did not help. I replaced the thermostat and this didn't seem to help, but I did notice the upper coolant hose would be hot and the bottom not, even after the thermostat change. For awhile I suspected the radiator, but now I think it's fine. I had since learned that you can get a bad thermostat right from the box, even from a reputable vendor on this board (ie: no Chinese junk).

If I let the car sit overnight, it would dump most of the reservoir bottle overnight. I found that if I released the pressure slowly from the cap (so it didn't blow off), it may or may not be pressurized the next morning, but it would not dump the coolant. I did the test with the Block Tester and it showed negative for exhaust gases and the oil showed no signs of coolant on the Used Oil Analysis. The thing that gave it away was the very slight accumulation and minor discoloration in the coolant bottle, indicating exhaust gases had to be getting into it despite what the NAPA Block Tester showed.

I think I was pressurizing the coolant bottle only on one cylinder, which is why it would not do it all the time, but only when that one cylinder had a lot of pressure in it. When I replaced the head, I saw no indications of a breach, but it's perfect now.

I went through a lot of G12 coolant, more than I car to mention here. The ease of adding coolant once and awhile coupled with my natural procrastination let me to put it off for a long time, but I finally got tired of it and did the work. I am not sorry and wish I hadn't waited.
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'97 B4: 441,000 miles Malone 3, PP520's, Stage 2 cam, SBC3, ARP studs, Westach EGT/Boost, Koni Reds/Yellows, 2 1/4" exhaust, 2.5" Cat, no mufflers or EGR, Evo plate, leathers
'96 B4V: 462,000km (Windex's wagon) Malone 2, PP520's, 6 speed, G60 brakes, leathers, DMF, Evo...
'96 B4 (wife's): 212,000 miles Malone 3, Sprint 205's, Bilstein TC's
HEX-USB-CAN Vag-Com, A3/A4/B4 timing belt tools & manuals, IP socket, alt & specialty tools.
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Old April 5th, 2012, 20:31   #26
mech644
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abacus View Post
I don't want to get too outrageous going VNT, and how much will a 15 gain me over the stock turbo, or the K03/04 hybrid I was thinking of when mine pooches? After spending a cool $1k on the head + install, there isn't a ton of money left over.

Luceberg is correct, they were the rubber return lines and they've been replaced.

Thanks BlindViper, I did not know that.

Silver box: thanks, it actually surprised the hell out of me, too, as did the condition of the piston tops. It has never felt sluggish and always pulled hard whenever called upon. Now the Mrs' B4...that needs to have some updates. It may get slightly better mileage, but it feels like I'm driving a moped by comparison.

Car runs flawlessly and the power gain is noticeable, even though I'm on the break-in oil and being somewhat easy on it. The mild smoke under acceleration is also gone, which I'll miss for those tailgaters. Guess I'll just have to live with it.
Nothing outrageous at all about a VNT15. When I was researching the idea for mine Peter N remarked that a VNT15 in a B4 would be an ideal match. The 15 has very quick response. I reckon you would have boost sooner and it would last further up the RPM's; VNT makes the turbo more efficient vs a WG type. MPG gains, pure speculation but I'd hazzard a guess of 2-4. This thread is a good resource if you want to go that route http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=314761.
But I'm totally sympathetic to "enough is enough", if the money tree in your back yard is anything like the one in mine then it's slim pickings.
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2000 Golf 5spd, 260k, EGR & cooler delete, CAT filter, snowscreen delete, RC3, Doniol boost/EGT gauge, PP520(balanced), Jarama rims, DC1 clutch, Whitbread 2.5" SS DP, PD150 IM, PD130 TIP, DG bypass, 17/22.
Rest of the fleet, '06 Jetta DSG, no mods; '97 B4(Gone and glad of it); '88 GMC 1500 4x4; '72 Ford C800; '55 Ford 650 tractor; '82 Kubota B7100 HST tractor
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Old April 6th, 2012, 04:23   #27
BlindViper
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moterhead855 View Post
@abacus, could you describe in detail the cooling system issues you were having? im fighting a cooling system demon on my mk4 alh jetta and kinda leaning towards head gasket at this point. the engine runs great though and i thought that a blown head gasket would show performance issues, but like i said it runs great. im building pressure and blowing out the over heat port. ive replaced the thermostat, coolant reservoir/cap and verified good flow through radiator and engine. the bottom hose stays cool and top hose is hot. any ideas? ive pretty much exhausted all of my diag abilities and that of my vw mechanic friends and we're all stumped/frustrated at this point and open to any advice/recomendations. thanks!
Do you have low or no heat at idle on a warmed up car? If so you have a very small head gasket leak. One thing you can try is to drive the car one day and act like you have a 200 deg cup of coffee between your legs make no boost at. If you don't loose any coolant its the head gasket
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Old April 11th, 2012, 11:33   #28
Abacus
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I just stripped the original head for cleaning, and thought I'd post some pics of the cam. The cam is original and the lifters have 98K on them (please don't deride me, they were replaced by a guru).

(click on picture to enlarge)



And here is why I prefer the teflon seal to the stock OEM black one. Note the two grooves which were worn into the cam from the seal, which was leaking a little. Since it needed a new head gasket and a cam, and the rest of the head had 393K on it, I thought it was time for a complete swap. I have always run Shell Rotella-T or Mobil-1 TDT oil, so I would say it was time that wore it in.

(click on picture to enlarge)



Hard to believe I have over 2K on the new head already and the car runs like a champ.
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'97 B4: 441,000 miles Malone 3, PP520's, Stage 2 cam, SBC3, ARP studs, Westach EGT/Boost, Koni Reds/Yellows, 2 1/4" exhaust, 2.5" Cat, no mufflers or EGR, Evo plate, leathers
'96 B4V: 462,000km (Windex's wagon) Malone 2, PP520's, 6 speed, G60 brakes, leathers, DMF, Evo...
'96 B4 (wife's): 212,000 miles Malone 3, Sprint 205's, Bilstein TC's
HEX-USB-CAN Vag-Com, A3/A4/B4 timing belt tools & manuals, IP socket, alt & specialty tools.
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Old April 16th, 2012, 01:21   #29
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I was hoping to see what the old head looked like when you pulled it! Or was that IT?
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Old April 16th, 2012, 03:36   #30
Abacus
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I stripped it already and scraped the old gasket off in preparation for a dip cleaning. It looked like any other head that is taken off though, nothing spectacular and no buildup. I did not touch the valves in it, so I can post a pic if you'd like.
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'97 B4: 441,000 miles Malone 3, PP520's, Stage 2 cam, SBC3, ARP studs, Westach EGT/Boost, Koni Reds/Yellows, 2 1/4" exhaust, 2.5" Cat, no mufflers or EGR, Evo plate, leathers
'96 B4V: 462,000km (Windex's wagon) Malone 2, PP520's, 6 speed, G60 brakes, leathers, DMF, Evo...
'96 B4 (wife's): 212,000 miles Malone 3, Sprint 205's, Bilstein TC's
HEX-USB-CAN Vag-Com, A3/A4/B4 timing belt tools & manuals, IP socket, alt & specialty tools.
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