| VW MKIII-A3/B4 TDIs This is a discussion about MKIII-A3/MkIII Jetta/Golf (<99.5) and B4 Passats (96,97) TDI's. Non TDI related postings will be moved or removed. |
March 1st, 2012, 17:59
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#1
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Fort Bragg, NC.
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Ball joint replacement? How bad?
Anyone replace their front ball joints recently? How did it go? What else did you replace? I've been thinking about doing the ones on my B4 and am just wondering what kind of job I'm looking at? Also any specials tools needed?
Also what's with these "second design unthreaded" ball joints??
__________________
'05 GTO: 6.0, M6, & go fast goodies.
'96 Passat: 1.9, M5, Stop tech pads, & Skunk Speed exhaust.
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March 1st, 2012, 19:16
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Vancouver, Canada
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 Hopefully the pics will come through
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www.vixenrv.org 30 mpg motorhome
1997 Passat tdi B4
1996 Passat tdi B4V
1984 Landcruiser diesel
1937 Chevy 350 TPI
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March 1st, 2012, 19:29
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#3
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Tucson, Az
Fuel Economy: A5: 35mpg Avg / B4: 41mpg Avg
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Aside from corrosion, the B4 front suspension has to be one of the easiest I've worked on. The ball joints are probably the easiest part.
If you suspect the ball joints need to be replaced, I wouldn't hesitate to replace them. Easy to do.
Make sure you use jack stands and be careful!
Tony
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Diesel fleet: 2006 Jetta, TDI, DSG, 35MPG avg; 2006 DC Cummins, CC/LB/DRW, Jake, 15.5MPG avg, 47kmiles; 1996 Passat TDI, 5sp, Project car! 204k miles, Avg 42mpg / best 48.9mpg, Troubleshooting Links: Whitedog's No Start Trusted TDI Mechanics A4 Limp Mode IP Timing Timing Belt FAQ A3/B4 Low Power Cyl Head Repair Fault Codes What you have just read is an opinion...take it as you see fit!
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March 2nd, 2012, 10:00
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#4
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Nobleboro, Maine
Fuel Economy: And the miles just keep ticking away
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Agreed. I love the design, so easy to replace.
Undo the nut and bolt near the top (the horizontal ones, and you have to remove the bolt completely), then remove the three bolts from underneath, remove ball joint, reassemble with new parts.
Most of the time it's quick & easy.
The second design unthreaded ball joint is great, basically it's a ball joint with no top threaded portion. The one in your picture has the threaded portion on it, and the problem is if the tapered fit comes loose, it is difficult to hold the top portion from spining if the nut isn't all the way off. On the second design, there is a recessed portion on this top piece, and the bolt that goes through horizontally uses it as a keeper, so it won't come off. It also clamps the top portion together, which is easy to spread with a chisel or ply bar making the joint removal MUCH easier. No special puller is needed.
__________________
'97 B4: 434,000 miles RC2+, PP520's, Stage 2 cam, SBC3, ARP studs, Westach EGT/Boost, Koni Reds/Yellows, 2 1/4" exhaust, 2.5" Cat, no mufflers or EGR, Evo plate, leathers, 16" MSW's
'96 B4V: 309,000 miles Wettenauer Chips, PP520's (out on loan), Scangauge
'96 B4 (wife's): 205,000 miles Sprint 205's, Bilstein TC's, RC3+ on the shelf
HEX-USB-CAN Vag-Com, A3/A4/B4 timing belt tools & manuals, IP socket, alt & specialty tools.
Last edited by Abacus; March 2nd, 2012 at 10:21.
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March 3rd, 2012, 14:02
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#5
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Fort Bragg, NC.
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Ok I'm just going to get the threaded ones like whats on there and be done with it. Anyone replace any bushings or other things on the front end while down there?
__________________
'05 GTO: 6.0, M6, & go fast goodies.
'96 Passat: 1.9, M5, Stop tech pads, & Skunk Speed exhaust.
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March 6th, 2012, 05:20
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#6
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Nobleboro, Maine
Fuel Economy: And the miles just keep ticking away
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No need, since nothing else comes off. Quick and easy.
__________________
'97 B4: 434,000 miles RC2+, PP520's, Stage 2 cam, SBC3, ARP studs, Westach EGT/Boost, Koni Reds/Yellows, 2 1/4" exhaust, 2.5" Cat, no mufflers or EGR, Evo plate, leathers, 16" MSW's
'96 B4V: 309,000 miles Wettenauer Chips, PP520's (out on loan), Scangauge
'96 B4 (wife's): 205,000 miles Sprint 205's, Bilstein TC's, RC3+ on the shelf
HEX-USB-CAN Vag-Com, A3/A4/B4 timing belt tools & manuals, IP socket, alt & specialty tools.
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March 8th, 2012, 18:40
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#7
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Ontario, California
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As long as you dont' have corrosion you'll be okay. Brearing press kit for an impact wrench for the bushings, hammer and pry bar for opening the ball joint socket, and a little patience. Took 15 min to get my 2nd ball joint off and it had corrosion. Control arm bushings took about 30 min because I never had pressed bushings before. It really is pretty simple.
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March 23rd, 2012, 18:25
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#8
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Fort Bragg, NC.
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Now looking at mine they don't look like the one above. It seems mine have a part that clamps around the top of the ball joint? Does this mean I'll need the non-threaded ones? Actually I can only find those.
__________________
'05 GTO: 6.0, M6, & go fast goodies.
'96 Passat: 1.9, M5, Stop tech pads, & Skunk Speed exhaust.
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March 24th, 2012, 08:41
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#9
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
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VR6 ("Plus") suspension uses the threaded ball joints.
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Chris
'96 Passat TDI variant
'97 Passat TDI sedan
'99 BMW M3 Cabrio
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March 26th, 2012, 05:41
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#10
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: charleston,wv
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Super easy job and replace your rear factory " garbage" rear a-arm bushings with Audi TT ones while you're in there.
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March 26th, 2012, 06:15
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#11
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Nobleboro, Maine
Fuel Economy: And the miles just keep ticking away
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The A-arm doesn't need to come off to replace the ball joints, so you're not "in there" already.
I agree the TT's are the way to go though.
__________________
'97 B4: 434,000 miles RC2+, PP520's, Stage 2 cam, SBC3, ARP studs, Westach EGT/Boost, Koni Reds/Yellows, 2 1/4" exhaust, 2.5" Cat, no mufflers or EGR, Evo plate, leathers, 16" MSW's
'96 B4V: 309,000 miles Wettenauer Chips, PP520's (out on loan), Scangauge
'96 B4 (wife's): 205,000 miles Sprint 205's, Bilstein TC's, RC3+ on the shelf
HEX-USB-CAN Vag-Com, A3/A4/B4 timing belt tools & manuals, IP socket, alt & specialty tools.
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March 26th, 2012, 07:46
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#12
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: CT
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I did this job this past weekend. I got the harbor freight tool for the inner ball joints and it made the job quite easy.
the hardest part was getting the boots on. If the control arms had been out it would have been easier I think. Each boot took about an hour to wiggle on there - there just isn't any room to get your hands or a tool in there..
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July 4th, 2012, 07:11
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#13
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Stafford,NY (WNY)
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I forgot how I changed the one on my A3 yeas ago(I think I did it while replacing axle). Can the wheel be on ground(as in on car ramps)to remove ball joint,or does the wheel have to be in air? I'll be doing both sides,then hopefully an alignment check tomorow after work.
__________________
97 Passat TDI-350k- Kubota GR2100 Diesel 502 hrs.
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July 4th, 2012, 07:17
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#14
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Oakland, CA
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The suspension has to hang free, wheels off.
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K03 hybrid turbo, RC II, Titan 502's, DC Stage I, TT LCA bushings
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July 4th, 2012, 08:21
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#15
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Veteran Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Stafford,NY (WNY)
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Does the driveshaft actually have to be disconnected from tranny? I'd rather not mess w/ those bolts if I don't have to(12pt)-I don't own the best bit for those,and the bit broke 1/2 way through last timeI was putting axle in-got a replacement one,but of same quality(Autozone warranty)......
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97 Passat TDI-350k- Kubota GR2100 Diesel 502 hrs.
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