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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old February 17th, 2012, 13:02   #406
cumminsfromthecold
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Default Re ALH Wiring Schematics

Very nice work, Andy. I admire your attention to detail. Those schematics are invaluable, too.
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Old February 25th, 2012, 20:54   #407
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Default Update

(6/2014) EDIT: The improvised use of the Fan Control Module housing as shown below was abandoned! I also did not use the Ethernet cable. However the concept/idea stayed the same but I used individual 20 and 22 gauge wires with various plug & play non-protected connectors.

Update

Well, for the last week or so, I haven't done a lot of hands-on work with the project. But, I have spent a considerable amount of time "tweaking" the electrical schematics so that they are a little more user friendly. Looking at all those diagrams here on the PC and then trying to apply them in the real world (out at the garage) is a challenge.

Okay, here in this post are a few photos of my latest work. As usual, I've made use of available "stuff" either from the project bits or things laying around the garage.

These photos will primarily reflect the wiring for the Accelerator and Cruise Control and their respective place in the central location.

I am trying to make everything as close to "plug and play" as possible while maintaining the circuits that I use per the Bentley schematics.

Anyway, to "improvise" you will see I used the 14-pin connector and "half" of the Fan Control Module (FCM) to provide the "plug and play" aspect of the Accelerator and Cruise Control wiring. (Water was the culprit that destoryed the FCM.)

The Accelerator circuits require 6 wires and the Cruise Control requires 7 wires, of which two are associated with the Brake Switch. So, that totals 13 wires in the 14-pin connector (#12 was a blank, so perfect for my use).

Comments are at the top of each photo.

The photo below is a side shot of the FCM cut in half. You can see the 14-pin connector on the left and the Ethernet cable on the right. Notice the schematics in the background ...........


In this photo, the two ethernet cables have been soldered onto the "guts" of the 14-pin connector.


Here, both ethernet cables are visible. Notice: later, I made the decision to elimate one of the ethernet cables. I determined that the wires may not be large enough to carry the load.


In this photo, you can see that I have eliminated the ethernet cable on the left and replaced it with individual 18 & 20 gauage wires. Also, notice there are three circuits of the one ethernet cable pulled out. Well, those circuits will be used for three connections to the "green" side of the Cluster.


This is a view from the other side of the FCM, opposite of the ethernet cable and individual wires. Notice, these wires are grouped. The group on the right is for the Accelerator connector circuit and the group on the left is for the Cruise Control connector circuit.


This is a side shot that shows the blue connector on the left (accelerator circuits) and the black connector (which contains the cruise control circuits). The purple thingy is where the 109 Relay will sit. Notice the black square piece of plastic laying on top of the ECU. Well, that bit will be secured on the end of the FCM half. Also, the position of the ECU will be more to the right than how it's position there in the photo.


In this photo, you can see the relative position of all five of the colored connectors. As you may recall from previous posts, there will be at least three additional relays in the panel (two for the Coolant GPs and the Starter Interlock Relay (safety).


This is another angle


This shot is from the other end. You can see the wiring bundle is pretty large (13 wires total). Also, the big blue wire on the left under the fuse box is from the 109 Relay. It will be be spliced for three connections to the fuse box. Also, the other wires with tags on them will either go to the fuse box or forward to the dash of the vehicle as necessary! Actually, I've got so deep into the wiring aspect that the "tags" are no longer needed for identification............am I getting good or what?

The wire bundle near the center of the above photo ........^^^ is 10.5 feet long.

As stated, this aspect of the project involves 13 circuits that will go up front to the dash, etc. There will be at least 27 more circuits to complete the wiring to the front...........Wow!
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456 fill-ups, in Excel spreadsheet, 345k miles...
'84 Vanagon ALH TDI engine (32 mpg) Malone Stage 1 tune, Polaris Diesel ATV, Allegro Bay RV 5.9 cummins, VWs 41 years, VW diesels 34 years, ALH TDIs 12 years

Last edited by AndyBees; June 15th, 2014 at 17:27. Reason: Add a photo, comments.
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Old February 27th, 2012, 12:39   #408
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Andy, curious, what is an FCM? I don't think, my vanagon conversion has one. The majority of the ECU wiring is very low load, so I don't know that I would worry about using ethernet as long as it is twisted strand nonplenum. Greaseworks also sells wiring for conversions by the foot. https://www.greaseworks.com/store/pr...c7ae0nlrbdnoq4 mark
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Old February 27th, 2012, 13:01   #409
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FCM is the fan control module
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Old February 27th, 2012, 15:00   #410
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Yeah, as RACKARACKA stated, FCM is the abbreviaton for Fan Control Module which is used on the Jetta (and others). One half of the FCM has a 14-pin connector and the other half has 4-pins (I think). I only needed the 14-pin side of the FCM. Anyway, using that connector and the receptical (half of the FCM) allows me to "bunch" wiring and also keep with the "plug and play" concept.

But ..........................does everyone see the mistake I made?

Go back and look at the photos. I should have reversed the 14-pin connector and receptical.. As it is now will not work for Plug and Play. So, I have to "un-solder" all those wires, flip the FCM half and solder the wires from the Black and Blue Connectors to that end of the FCM. Then the 14-pin conncector wires will be soldered to the "bundle of 13" going to the front...................Geezzz...what was I thinking?

Advice to those considering to strip a car for a conversion project, save all you can. Later, some of that "stuff" you cut off may be needed later.

Radio Shack has a good variety of 24, 22, 20, and 18 gauge stranded wire. Most of the need is 0.35mm which is roughly the same as 22 gauage.

So, I plan to dump the Ethernet wire! Also, I'm thinking a 3/4 inch coated flexible conduit will provide adqueate protection to the wires...........(Squeezing in 36 runs will be a challenge)!
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Old February 28th, 2012, 11:48   #411
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Not sure why you would go to the trouble to tie in a fan control module on the Vanagon, when the vangon already has a standalone radiator fan circuit tied to the radiator temp and the factory ac if equiped. It is a straight forward circuit that does not depend on the ECU etc. You also have options of thermostat temps and radiator fan switches. I upgraded to the largest rad fan that came in the vanagon which handles 3 speeds. Low comes on with the AC, Medium is controlled by temp or A/C pressure, High is there as a fail safe.

My radiator fan almost never comes on when the air is off. It takes about 8 miles for the engine to even get to temp. I think the size of the Vanagon cooling system has something to do with this. Going down the highway regardless of ambient, the engine temp runs between 188 F and 192 F. If I come off the highway, and am idling in traffic to get to the service station, I might hear the rad fan click on for maybe a minute or less. Just my 2 cents. mark
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Old February 28th, 2012, 18:31   #412
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsxsr View Post
Not sure why you would go to the trouble to tie in a fan control module on the Vanagon, when the vangon already has a standalone radiator fan circuit tied to the radiator temp and the factory ac if equiped. It is a straight forward circuit that does not depend on the ECU etc. You also have options of thermostat temps and radiator fan switches. I upgraded to the largest rad fan that came in the vanagon which handles 3 speeds. Low comes on with the AC, Medium is controlled by temp or A/C pressure, High is there as a fail safe.

My radiator fan almost never comes on when the air is off. It takes about 8 miles for the engine to even get to temp. I think the size of the Vanagon cooling system has something to do with this. Going down the highway regardless of ambient, the engine temp runs between 188 F and 192 F. If I come off the highway, and am idling in traffic to get to the service station, I might hear the rad fan click on for maybe a minute or less. Just my 2 cents. mark

Mark, go back and re-read Post #407.

I'm not using the FCM to control the Radiator Fan. The explanation is there for the use of the FCM connector/receptacle in my wiring application!
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'84 Vanagon ALH TDI engine (32 mpg) Malone Stage 1 tune, Polaris Diesel ATV, Allegro Bay RV 5.9 cummins, VWs 41 years, VW diesels 34 years, ALH TDIs 12 years
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Old February 29th, 2012, 07:28   #413
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So you are using it as a plug connector. The FCM reference was confusing. I did not have all of the bits you have when I did my conversion. I am using universal relay brackets, inline fuses, and weather pack connectors where needed. Keep up the good work. mark

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Old March 11th, 2012, 20:18   #414
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Update

Okay, I have basically reversed the use of the 14-pin connector as set-out in the last update (post #407). It was not exactly "as plug and play" as I intended. In fact, I'm not sure what I was thinking at the time. Also, I have dumped the solid ethernet style wire. Mark put me onto something much better.

So, right now I am waiting for the wire to be delivered.

Here are a few photos that will reflect the change(s) I made.

In this first photo you can see the 14-pin connector there in the center. It has all the labels attached identifiying the circuits. You can also see the grey 109 Relay there on the left with the main blue power circuit coming out and to the fuse panel with two branches off it. The main circuit goes to Fuse 32 with 34 and 43 to the left respectively (this is all per the Bentley Schematics, for future reference)


This shot is of the left side of the unit showing the five colored connectors.
From Right-to-Left: Blue has all the circuits for the Accelerator and one circuit that loops around to the 109 Relay base. Black has five of the six Cruise Control circuits and two for the brake switch. Both the Blue and Black Circuits go thru the 14-pin connector which totals exactly 13 wires. #12 has a blank (that was luck).
The Brown, Orange and White connectors contain 5, 2, and 5 respective wires (circuits) that will be used. The starter Interlock Relay is there to the left of the 109 Relay. The two relays for the coolant GPs will be located further to the left.


This is an angle shot from the other end. This gives a good idea of what the fuse panel will look like as it begins to receive the various circuits.


This side shot shows the circuits as they are leaving the fuse panel on the bottom. The big red wire with black stripe straight down from the big blue wire is the circuit to the ECU pin 1&2 via the Brown Connector at T6/4.


This is another end shot of the colored connectors. Here you can see the rectangle hole I cut out in the base support for routing wires. Those connectors all have receptical that will come in from the bottom.


This is the ECU end of the unit. You can see the rectangle hole cut out on that end.


Here is a bottom shot. As you can see, with the "plug and play" concept, this entire "unit" will be easily removed when necessary.


Well, considering I have been battling Type A flu since last Tuesday, I suppose I made a little progress.
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2000 Jetta TDI, 50+ overall average (no tune)
300k mile mark on 12/28/11
456 fill-ups, in Excel spreadsheet, 345k miles...
'84 Vanagon ALH TDI engine (32 mpg) Malone Stage 1 tune, Polaris Diesel ATV, Allegro Bay RV 5.9 cummins, VWs 41 years, VW diesels 34 years, ALH TDIs 12 years
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Old March 14th, 2012, 08:55   #415
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Andy, looks like you got the correct info for contacting Greaseworks. I had some time last Saturday and did not know what to do with it. Decided to redo the plumbing between the turbo and the intercooler. This is phase 4. It eliminated the connector peice and actually got it up out of the way and from the rear view. The vanagon looks more stealth now. Sorry the one picture is blurry.

In this picture you can see the transistion from the turbo to the larger intercooler pipe.


In this picture you can see how it snakes its way up towards the intercooler inlet. Notice the bracket that attaches it to the carrier bar at the engine mount.



I know you are reclocking your turbo, but this may give you some ideas of how to plumb it. mark
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Old March 14th, 2012, 13:13   #416
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Mark, yes, that appears to have improved your Turbo piping.

Although I have everything relating to my Turbo piping and InterCooler ready for installation, it still needs some tweaking. I need to take the InterCooler back to the welder for at least one more support brace.

My intent is to take several items to the welder and drop them off for later. He does contract welding at his shop for his bacon and bread. So, anything I take him stays on back burner until he can get to it.

These are some things I need to do:
1 - modify the left motor mount bracket
2 - add an extra bracing arm to the left motor mount
3 - add a brace to the InterCooler for mounting
4 - add an additional brace to one of the modified AC adapters
5 - fabricate bracket for the brake an clutch switches
6 - install and support flexible condiut for the wiring circuits. This seems to be working well.
7 - signal stalk modification for the cruise control. I have this about 75% finished and hope to post photos later today
8 - install fuel filter bracket
9 - install the coolant pipes
10 - prepare the manifold for the EGT sensor
11 - finish the wiring layout ...........and, tap into the Vanagon's systems that I need to show-up in the TDI Cluster, such as the signal lights.
12 - I have to either pull the engine or drop the tranny to install the flyhweel, clutch, etc............. I guess it will be the tranny!

..........much more to do.

I'm still scratching my head on the Power Steering systems. I have the rack, lines, reservoir, etc. Locating the reservoir has me buffaloed! It needs to be roughly at the same level as the power steering pump!

Lastly, I am not satisfied with the exhaust, especially the location of the CAT. So, I'm thinking that will probably be near the last thing I finish!
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2000 Jetta TDI, 50+ overall average (no tune)
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456 fill-ups, in Excel spreadsheet, 345k miles...
'84 Vanagon ALH TDI engine (32 mpg) Malone Stage 1 tune, Polaris Diesel ATV, Allegro Bay RV 5.9 cummins, VWs 41 years, VW diesels 34 years, ALH TDIs 12 years

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Old March 14th, 2012, 21:32   #417
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Update

Over the last few days, I have worked on the Jetta/Vanagon Signal/Cruise stick.

The objective is to "install" the Jetta Signal/Cruise Control Stick on the Vanagon Signal Stick.

The wiring to these circuits is the flat copper strip with coating. I had to do all the work using a magnifying glass as I separated the little copper strips for soldering 22 gauge stranded wire to them. The task was to extend the plug connection down below the steering wheel under the dash.

So, I hope I took enough photos to depict the results.

This is a pic of the "guts" of the Jetta Signal Salk with Curise switch parts. You can see the electrical strip and connector off to the left. That strip will be cut off on each end and lengthened with 22 gauge stranded wire.


Another shot of the "guts" of the stick. The white plastic piece is where the switch operates. You can see the copper strips in the little windows. To the left, you can see that the copper strip is coated with black electrical tape (I suppose that is what the stuff is.).


This is a pic of one of the six electrical strip circuits. Here it is being set-up to be coated with solder. The aluminum foil works well for holding, seeing and reflecting heat. I did all the soldering using a magnifying glass. Notice, that the black coating has been scraped off.


This is a pic of all six wires soldered to the electrical strip circuits. I used clear tape to insulate and secure them. Then, where they were separated with the scalpel, I coated them with liquid tape.....very light. Unfortunately, I did not take any photos of the results. Notice the copper part to the left of the black area. Well, that's the part that had the white piece on it with the windows for the switch contacts.


This is a pic of the electrical connector on the opposite end away from the cruise switch. Here you can see that the electrical strip has been cut off. There are two circuits off to the upper left and four there in the center bottom.


This a pic with all the wires soldered onto the electrical connector.


Here you can see the clear tape and black tape that secures them in place. The wires actually get another round of black tape all the way up and on the connector.


This is a shot of the "hollow" Jetta stick JB Welded to the cut-off Vanagon stick. That is the back side.


This a shot from the back side with the "guts" installed. You can see some of the wires and the "rough" JB Weld. The wire bundle (wraped in black tape) goes off to the left and down the assembly. You can also see masking tape securing everything on a temporary basis.


This shot shows the stick as installed from the front side.


The JB Weld will hold and operate the stick without any concern of breaking. I actually cut the Vanagon stick and inserted into the Jetta stick with JB Weld on both peices and used a C-clamp to hold until it cured.

I do plan to finish and polish for acceptable look.......

While I had the switch apart, I cleaned it and added fresh grease. It works really smooth.
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2000 Jetta TDI, 50+ overall average (no tune)
300k mile mark on 12/28/11
456 fill-ups, in Excel spreadsheet, 345k miles...
'84 Vanagon ALH TDI engine (32 mpg) Malone Stage 1 tune, Polaris Diesel ATV, Allegro Bay RV 5.9 cummins, VWs 41 years, VW diesels 34 years, ALH TDIs 12 years

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Old March 14th, 2012, 21:40   #418
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Here is a pic of the Jetta stick JB Welded to the Vanagon stick....looking straight on.
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456 fill-ups, in Excel spreadsheet, 345k miles...
'84 Vanagon ALH TDI engine (32 mpg) Malone Stage 1 tune, Polaris Diesel ATV, Allegro Bay RV 5.9 cummins, VWs 41 years, VW diesels 34 years, ALH TDIs 12 years
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Old March 16th, 2012, 08:28   #419
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I used a straightforward solution. I putted 2 swiths on the dasboard



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Old March 16th, 2012, 13:18   #420
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Quote:
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I used a straightforward solution. I putted 2 swiths on the dasboard



Joćo
Actually, I did give that some thought. And, I may do it later.

I really don't like VW's Cruise Switch. It has the "Off and ON" exactly opposite as it should be, which also affect the use of the Resume and/or + for additional speed. The switch activatioon is in the opposite direction for simple finger use!
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2000 Jetta TDI, 50+ overall average (no tune)
300k mile mark on 12/28/11
456 fill-ups, in Excel spreadsheet, 345k miles...
'84 Vanagon ALH TDI engine (32 mpg) Malone Stage 1 tune, Polaris Diesel ATV, Allegro Bay RV 5.9 cummins, VWs 41 years, VW diesels 34 years, ALH TDIs 12 years
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