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TDI Conversions Discussions on converting non TDIs into TDIS. More general items can be answered better in other sections. This is ideal for issues that don't have an overlap and are very special to swaping engines.

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Old January 16th, 2011, 13:25   #496
cumminsfromthecold
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Default Re. Alternator and AC setups

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Originally Posted by Spulen81 View Post
Glad to see this is still happening! Did you ever figure out anything with the starters?

Also very recently while replacing my waterpump I found a bolt on solution to the alternator/steering shaft clearance issues with a 1Z/AHU. This will save much messing around.

In Canada, possibly in the US you could get a 1Z with no air conditioning. These engines used a totally different alt. bracket and alt. I have one of these setups and bolted it up for kicks. It clears with plenty of room to spare. You can buy these setups brand new.. marketed as ABF alternator setups for gasser 16V.
Thanks for posting this, Spulen81 - incredibly helpful. I plan on deleting the AC now on my 1Z. Looking into that...
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Old March 28th, 2011, 16:51   #497
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Default Toyota driver's side motor mounts

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Originally Posted by e*clipse View Post
The motor is now standing on its own.

Sequence:
>Mark position of new mounts and pull motor out.
>Grind off old motor mounts (see previous post)
>Because the motor mounts are very close to the suspension upper pivots, I had to remove them to weld the mounts in place. The Toyota has torsion rod front springs, so these needed to be detensioned first. One side worked fine, the other side siezed and the tensioning bolt needed to be cut off. May be a good time for new torsion bars...

Here is a shot of the drivers side mount:


Passenger side mount:


Right now the mounts are just tacked in place. Even with just the tack welds, they support the motor. I'll have to remove them & the motor again to do the final welding. Clearance on bottom is ~3/4" > 1" from oil pan to front differential and driver side axle mount. Clearance on top is ~ 1/2" from hood insulation to oil fill cap. (I think I can use a shorter fill inlet)

Clearance issues:
Intercooler oil return line contacts starter. Ideas, anyone?
The industrial motors seem to have the exhaust pipe upside down, with the turbo on top. This would solve the starter-exhaust clearance issue. Can the exhuast manifold simply be turned upside down?
Can the turbo's compressor be rotated? It would help intercooler pipe routing.
Anyone know interchangeability of the thermostat housing? I would like to route in straight down or away from the engine. Not straight back like stock.
The oil drain is definitely an issue. It currently points right at the front differential. The best option will be move it to the back of the oilpan.
Hey e*clipse,
The driver's side motor mounts are something I wonder about. I have seen only your picture but it's dark, so I can't really see where you bolted to the 1Z block. On my 1Z, I see a couple of usable threaded holes right below the oil filter housing/oil cooler, but only two. Is there a third? Has your set-up worked for you?

Does anyone else have a shot of how their driver's side motor mount went in/works?

On my solid axle '84, it's a really different arrangement than a truck with IFS (which is to say, every Toyota truck made after 1985). I am pretty sure the space between my truck's frame rails is a decent bit wider than later IFS models... Oh: I'm using 325i (E30) motor mounts.
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Old March 28th, 2011, 17:38   #498
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There should be 3 threaded holes. I had to use a tap to clean mine out as they were filled with rust and crud.
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Old March 28th, 2011, 22:55   #499
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i will get some pictures for you next time i am down at the shop. i just got done with my motor mounts and they were a little bit of a pain, i ended up using the stock toyota mounts and built my own brackets. its very similar to what Luke Wilson did. I had three holes to use and they were all below the oil filter on the drivers side.
-Sam
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Old March 29th, 2011, 09:58   #500
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There are 4 usable bolts on the passenger side and 3 on the driver's side of the motor. I would never trust two - it's too easy to get some force that exert a side load and bend them off. Remember the vibration issue - design for fatigue.

See my post here for the cad drawing. It's a PDF of the industrial engine, which appears to have the same bolt holes as the 1Z.

http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.ph...awing&cat=3711

Note the bolt holes are not all at the same height. If you look closely are the pics, what I did was make a flat plate with the bolt holes, then weld on some spacers for the correct hole "z" positions. I then had a nice flat surface to weld the motor mount system to.
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Last edited by e*clipse; March 29th, 2011 at 10:07.
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Old March 29th, 2011, 10:03   #501
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Exclamation Value of injector balancing

On a somewhat related note: I changed my nozzles to 0.216's a while back. Being, um, somewhat "budget restricted" , I opted to install them myself and not balance them. - They should be close enough, right?? WRONG!

After driving a few thousand miles, the truck was idling very rough (which rattled everything with my stiff motor mounts) I guessed that the injection quantity was different from injector to injector, resulting in rough idle. Who knows: maybe it was bad under power too, but you couldn't feel it. The really bad thing is if the injectors were badly unbalanced under power, it could be ruining the engine. Remember the ECU only looks at average power, so if one cylinder is running hot and another cold, it won't know. Even if you put on an EGT gauge, you won't know.

I bit the bullet and sent the injectors to DBW. Sure enough, they were unbalanced - but it gets worse. The initial stroke pressure was very low for all the injectors, causing the injectors to overheat at idle. There was thermal damage on all injectors, and the spray pattern for all the injectors was bad.

DBW cleaned them and correctly set the initial and main stroke pop pressures. Fortunately the spray pattern was ok afterward, but I severely reduced the life of the nozzles by not getting them set up properly. High recommendations for DBW if you upgrade nozzles.

After re-installing the injectors, it idles much more smoothly. You certainly feel it, but at least things aren't bouncing around the cab...

If you are planning on upgrading your nozzles, definitely get them balanced. The old nozzles had different hole sizes, and this will result in different pop pressures. According to this article, you should ideally let them settle in for about 500miles before balancing them.
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/1000q/m...nozzle-FAQ.htm

- E*clipse
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Last edited by e*clipse; March 29th, 2011 at 10:09. Reason: warning and title
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Old February 15th, 2012, 15:28   #502
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I just finally got through all 34 pages and I AM IMPRESSED! I'm scrapping the 4Runner project I started with the Mopar 360 V8 and 727 tranny. Now, I'm sourcing a 'donor' car for all parts. I have a solid axle under the front with the stock 4.10 gears. It WAS a V6 5spd, after 2 toyota motors blow I gave up and that's where the V8 was coming in. I was seeing people doing Chevy V8s and since I'm a Dodge guy and wanting to be different I opted for the Dodge V8. I'm sitting on 37" tires and the 4.10s with V8 I was worried. Now I will have to go for I'm thinking at LEAST 4.88s to keep the TDI 'happy'.

I'm going to stick with a 2000-2003 ALH with 5spd, that way I can use the motor for the Toyota 4Runner and the 5spd for the Jetta swap and then part out the rest of the body and recoup some of the costs if not all of it depending on what I pay for a donor.

I certainly have SAVED this thread with all the references, I should have this done in alot less time (knocking on wood) if I learn from your mistakes...which can't was bad...just no need to repeat and 'waste' money in the beginning. This was a learning experience for you and only will teach the rest of us who are inspired.

Looking back, someone mentioned about the PITA it is using the search feature on here, I agree! I stopped and post a new thread to get advice or answers if I don't get anything on Google. I still have more in the way of planning....would you be willing to build a set of motor mounts for me?
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Old February 16th, 2012, 14:24   #503
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I'm running 4.10s and 33's on my truck and 65 mph is about 3000rpm. 2700rpm seems to be the optimal rpm for crusing rpm, so you might try the 4.10's first. If you're running even a slightly modded TDI engine, i doubt it will have a problem pushing it.

The 3.0 V6 was only 177 ft-lbs, its not hard to hit 250+ ft-lbs with turbo, nozzles and a chip.
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Old February 16th, 2012, 16:07   #504
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running 3:59's in my truck and doing 2250 @ 75mph....I like this gear for highway cruising...needs a lower first and second gear for taking off...that's what the r151 will hopefully help out....I think the trucks would be happy with 3:73 gear and a tune
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Old February 16th, 2012, 18:09   #505
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Wow, it would be nice to have those gears available for the older trucks, my understanding is that they are not compatible with the diffs. Any idea if just the gears are swappable, not the entire diffs?

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/#taco_ifs
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Old February 17th, 2012, 04:47   #506
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Why dont you try 35" or maybe one of those odd sizes that turns out to be 34" tires? That should put you right where you want to be
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Old February 17th, 2012, 07:19   #507
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukeWilson View Post
Wow, it would be nice to have those gears available for the older trucks, my understanding is that they are not compatible with the diffs. Any idea if just the gears are swappable, not the entire diffs?

http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/diffs/#taco_ifs
Ha!...if you get me an 8" 3:59 gearset for my E locker rear (sitting on the shop floor)...I'll give you my stock taco rear drum to drum!!...shipping may be a bit much though ....I really don't want to give up my 3:59 gear but I could go up 3:73....
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Old February 17th, 2012, 14:10   #508
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Jim, 3.59's with what size tire?
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Old February 17th, 2012, 16:16   #509
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Jim, 3.59's with what size tire?
265/70x17 or 31.6 tall .....
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Old February 25th, 2012, 17:25   #510
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I haven't heard from e*clipse on how the truck is running. I sent ya a PM as well. How's your fuel mileage been in that truck? I'm curious....
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