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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > VW TDI Discussion Areas > TDI Power Enhancements

TDI Power Enhancements Discussions about increasing the power of your TDI engine. i.e. chips, injectors, powerboxes, clutches, etc. Handling, suspensions, wheels, type discussion should be put into the "Upgrades (non TDI Engine related)" forum. Non TDI vehicle related postings will be moved or removed. Please note the Performance Disclaimer.

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Old December 24th, 2011, 11:52   #121
Fix_Until_Broke
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Originally Posted by manual_tranny View Post
I guess it's too late now, but I thought I would see someone suggest to bore and stroke to 2.1 liters to get more power from 1000-2000? I've been dreaming about putting together a 2.1 ALH with an increased compression ratio and big heavy flywheel. Big IP, BIG injectors, extra-short duration injection. TORQUE.
See thread title...
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Old December 28th, 2011, 13:47   #122
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Great thread.

Still looking for a hone? I have an extra BRM 83mm flex hone all boxed up and ready to ship. Can't remember the grit right now but it was basically the finest I could find.
Let me know.
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Old December 28th, 2011, 13:55   #123
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Thanks for the offer, I have one borrowed along with a ring compressor from another member here.

Just waiting for rosten rods to get here, the pistons to get back from ceramic coating, and me to decide if the whole engine is coming out or if I'll do it in the car.
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Old December 29th, 2011, 06:42   #124
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Did you stick with the PD150 pistons? I'm surprised you went above and beyond to go with the ceramic coating.
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Old December 29th, 2011, 07:00   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keebler145 View Post
Did you stick with the PD150 pistons? I'm surprised you went above and beyond to go with the ceramic coating.
I guess when you've cracked a piston top, you take every precaution not to again.
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Old December 29th, 2011, 07:36   #126
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PD150 ARL pistons with "Gold Coat Ceramic Armor" coating on the tops from Swain Tech.

Rosten Rods, 12.9 main cap bolts, ARP head studs, will probably do some mild porting on the cylinder head while it's off, PD134 oil cooler, Oil pressure/temp gauge, Valve guides and seals, all the bearings, timing belt kit, engine mounts, front and rear main seal, Tie Rod Ends, Ball Joints, Springs, Shocks & Struts & Mounts, E-Code Headlights & Bulbs, Cabin blower motor, antenna base, glow plug harness and probably 20 other things that I'll find as I tear into it all.
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Old December 29th, 2011, 08:20   #127
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Now THAT is a tune-up!!! Nice list..
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Old December 29th, 2011, 08:29   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fix_Until_Broke View Post
PD150 ARL pistons with "Gold Coat Ceramic Armor" coating on the tops from Swain Tech.

Rosten Rods, 12.9 main cap bolts, ARP head studs, will probably do some mild porting on the cylinder head while it's off, PD134 oil cooler, Oil pressure/temp gauge, Valve guides and seals, all the bearings, timing belt kit, engine mounts, front and rear main seal, Tie Rod Ends, Ball Joints, Springs, Shocks & Struts & Mounts, E-Code Headlights & Bulbs, Cabin blower motor, antenna base, glow plug harness and probably 20 other things that I'll find as I tear into it all.
Lol. Guess you found out where to stop.
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Old December 29th, 2011, 18:40   #129
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What about pump seals?
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Old December 30th, 2011, 16:37   #130
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dear God, just pull the motor man! Have it hot tanked and painted pepto bismal (sp?) pink!

I would have put up with the whining motor till it quit running, not worth the headache of changing it *shrugs*
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Old January 4th, 2012, 21:42   #131
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Most all of the parts are either here or are on their way here finally. One more item to resolve, but otherwise, more/less ready to go.

I've been working on the cylinder head, it more/less needs everything. Not having the specific VAG tools called out in the bentley manual, I improvised and made my own. They worked well for me so far.

Guide Removal Tool - Just pound with a hammer from the valve side and out the guides come without damaging the guide bores.










Installing the new guides was pretty high tech as well . A little lube on the guides makes them slide in easier





Very specialized tool... - 3/8" Drive, 3/8" 12 Point Deep Well Socket with the end ground square/flat.




The head has some cracks between the injector hole and both valve seats - I seem to remember reading somewhere that this is normal and not a cause for concern. I hope so.
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Old January 4th, 2012, 21:51   #132
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The cam and lifters show some wear - they're going back in at least for a little while to get it back running again.










One thing I noticed was that there were similar dark spots on the surface of the head in each cylinder - they don't scrub off, almost like it's stained. Anyone else seen anything like this before?

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Old January 4th, 2012, 22:05   #133
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I've also started doing some head porting. Don't know if it's going to do any good or not, nor do I have a way to measure it. Just seemed like the right thing to do.

I'm not really touching the intake port at all. Cleaning up any casting flash at the core parting line and smoothing the transition from the port to the seat. That's really about it on the intake side. I figure that any attempt I can make to make the port larger without having a flow bench and swirl meter (and a spare head to practice on)will slow the airflow down reducing swirl and tumble in the cylinder and generally make things worse for low RPM power.

The intake gaskets match the ports almost perfectly, the exhaust, not so much.


Here's an unported intake port looking in from the cylinder


Here's the "porting" that I did - Just smoothed the transition to the seat and blended it down into the port



Here's another angle looking more down the port

Unported


"ported"


It's subtle, but shouldn't hurt anything flow wise.
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Old January 4th, 2012, 22:28   #134
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The exhaust ports have a lot of material that can be removed just to match the gasket (outside of red line is insdie of gasket)

Unported






Ported - 90% complete - still a little clean up to do, but generally the shape/size I'm going for.






The pictures make it hard to see what really changed in the port. You really have to spend a lot of time doing it by feel. Stare at the wall and run your finger in/out of the port in the area you're working on and then compare to the stock port - back and forth and back and forth to "see" where the material is coming out. Same thing for repeating what you just did on the other 3 ports. All done by feel and comparison.

Generally, there's lots of material on the top of the port. I removed a lot of material from there while keeping the shape similar and retaining the fin off of the valve guide (just making the valleys deeper so as not to loose the fin all together).

The short side radius and floor of the port got trimmed significantly as well.

The side walls I tried to make parallel - there's a lot of material to remove right down before it turns down to the valve. Stock port hourglasses there and I made it tangent to the "bowl" area between the valve seat and valve stem.

The above mentioned "bowl" area seen in the 2nd and 5th pictures was also smoothed and enlarged. From the seat the stock port gets smaller and then maintains that smaller diameter all the way up to the guide for the ~180 degrees opposite the runner. I enlarged this area all the way down to the guide so it's the ID of the seat and transitions well into the sides of the fin behind the guide.

I've got a bit of an edge on the short side radius that I can't get to with the carbide bits, sanding rolls, etc - may have to use some long strips of emery cloth and smooth it out.

I took a lot of material out of the exahust side as I felt that it had the most room for improvement and there wasn't much risk in doing so (as opposed to the intake port).
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Old January 5th, 2012, 00:12   #135
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you *did* check gasket-to-manifold matching on the exhaust side before starting, yes?
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