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Go Back   TDIClub Forums > TDI Model Specific Discussions Areas > VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD)

VW MKIV-A4 TDIs (VE and PD) This is a general discussion about A4/MkIV Jetta (99.5-~2005), Golf(99.5-2006), and New Beetle(98-2006). Both VE and PD engines are covered here.

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Old November 28th, 2002, 06:54   #1
dqa
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Fuel Economy: 52/45/38
Default Parking brake cable replacement, step by step

Today I'm replacing the parking brake cable on my Golf. Reason: the rubber boot at the tail end cracked, and the water that leaks inside freezes the brake in place in cold weather, . A simple whack with a long screwdriver frees it, but I have no wish to do this every time I use the parking brake in sub-freezing weather.

I was reviewing the Bentley manual instructions, which seem pretty straightforward. The one exception is removing the center console extension. This procedure is detailed in 68 Body Interior Equipment. Sadly, my edition of the book goes from 66 to 69.

I found a helpful post from MOGolf answering a question about the front portion:
Quote:
1. remove the caps over the screws attaching the center console (the part nearest the dash) to the center console extension.
2. remove the screws
3. unclip shifter boot and pull up
4. pull out ashtray insert and remove screw
5. slide ashtray forward (toward dash - away from shifter), close lid and pull out (up) until it is possible to disconnect cigarette lighter connector
6. remove screws (at forward sides of console) and pull center console upward over shift lever to remove
Will this technique also work for what I need to do, or are there additional tricks? I'd like to know exactly what steps are required before I go out in the 30 weather.

Thanks.

[ November 28, 2002, 18:33: Message edited by: dqa ]

Last edited by dqa; November 24th, 2005 at 10:00.
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Old November 28th, 2002, 18:32   #2
dqa
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Default Re: Parking brake cable replacement, step by step

I can't say enough about the person who posted this insightful question.

I myself recently completed exactly this task. Let me paraphrase and clarify the Bentley manual here.

Items needed: [see note about part numbers in MOGolf's post below]
  • Brake cable 1J0 609 721 E
  • Retaining clip for rear axle 1H0 609 734 C
  • Torx 15 screwdriver
  • 10mm wrench, preferably ratcheting (socket won't work, except hollow center)
  • Flat head screwdriver
  • Diagonal shears
  • Pliers
  • Long-nose Vise Grips or similar
  • Jack, stands, chocks
1. Center console extension - the plastic part between the two seats. There are four Torx 15 screws, one each under covers on both driver and passenger side front bottom corners, and two which can be seen through holes in the rear ashtray, after the ashtray itself is removed. The rear drink holders, if present, also need to be opened out of the way. Upon removal of the four screws, the plastic console extension can be pivoted forward and wrestled free of the plastic lip where it meets the gear shift lever housing, thus exposing the adjustment nut and the ends of the parking brake cables.

2. Release parking brake, and loosen the adjustment nut as shown in Bentley figure N46-0179. This is best done with a 9x10mm offset ratcheting wrench, only $6.99 at Sears (or a whole set for ~$10 at Harbor Freight). Unfortunately, Sears was closed today, so using an adjustable wrench and fingers had to do.

3. Raise rear wheel, remove parking brake retaining clip, and free caliper end of brake cable.

4. Remove parking brake from retainer hooks, and note where these are for rehanging the new cable later. With luck and a screwdriver, you may be able to pry off the rear axle retaining clip, arrow A in Bentley figure N46-0180. This part is also known as Clip 15 in ETKA figure 615-60. Otherwise, Dremel or bad-ass diagonal shears may be needed to remove (destroy) it.

5. Compare to new brake cable, and determine where the permanent guide tube ends not far from the final curve of the old cable's course. Grab hold of the tube with pliers to stabilize it, and try to pull the entire brake cable free of it. If it doesn't come out, the shears can be used to cut the metal crimp on the cable, making it slightly more flexible.

6. Slide new cable into guide tube, and observe interior to make sure the end has come through. It doesn't seem to firmly seat in the guide tube, but so long as it's lined up, tension during use should do the trick.

7. Hook opposite end of cable onto lever by caliper, using Vise Grips if necessary to compress lever. Reinstall retaining clip.

8. Line up cable crimp ring in center of retainer clip for rear axle, and secure it in place like the previous one, on the two protruding bolt threads. Attach cable to the two other retaining hooks.

9. Hook the end of the brake cable to the compensator, and start to retighten the 10mm nut.

10. Press brake pedal once firmly, and pull lever to fourth notch. At this point it wouldn't hurt to have the other rear wheel off the ground, so the compensator will be evenly adjusted.

11. Tighten the nut until both rear wheels are difficult to turn by hand.

12. Lower vehicle, reinstall plastic console extension, and replace ashtray.

Total repair time was a little over 2 hours, but with the proper tools and preparation this should take less than half that.

I also spent time poring over the Bentley manual inside the car, or running inside for additional tools, but I might not have felt the need had the outside temperature been higher than 40.

Last edited by dqa; November 24th, 2005 at 09:53.
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Old December 11th, 2002, 16:47   #3
dqa
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Default Re: Parking brake cable replacement, step by step

Follow-up: At the time I did this job, I didn't have a replacement retaining clip to go on the rear axle. I used a bread loaf twistie to tie it in place, but when I finally got around to installing the clip a week later, the cable had rubbed a little on the tire, and worn away some of the rubber sheathing down to the metal ribs.

I wasn't sure what to do to protect this. Paint would eventually crack, wasn't sure how well silicone would stick. Eventually decided on Grip & Guard rubber coating, used to dip the handles of wrenches and screwdrivers and so forth. Just dabbed it on and smoothed it with a latex glove (didn't have a brush handy).

The coating is still intact after a year or so. My only regret is that it's red: I can just see a curious mechanic picking away at the spot.

Last edited by dqa; November 24th, 2005 at 09:53.
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Old October 14th, 2003, 19:02   #4
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Default Re: Parking brake cable replacement, step by step

Just a note about the part numbers above.

Before replacing the cables, check to see what cables you have on your car. Don't even let them be ordered according to the VIN of your car. I had a car here a few weeks ago for e-brake cable replacement and it came with the 'E' cables though it should have had 1J0 609 721 K cables.

Other cable numbers are the 1J0 609 721 K, and 1J0 609 721 AC. These latter two are interchangeable with 'AC' superceding 'K'. They are slightly different length than the 'E' cable and have a different "ball" end at the caliper end.

The clip mentioned above is 1H0 609 734 F on newer editions. These are interchangeable with the 'C' part number mentioned above.
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Old September 9th, 2006, 18:21   #5
mainframe
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Default Parking Brake Cable Adjustment Question

I had my cables replaced about a year and a half ago, and for some reason the Stealership that did the work, set one side slightly tighter, so it doesn't release all the way to the stop, it's a small gap that up until yesterday never caused any trouble.

So what I want to know is, based on the info in this thread, can I just loosen the one cable back a half centimeter??

This would save me replacing the entire cable that I'm pretty certain is in perfect condition.
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Old September 10th, 2006, 19:02   #6
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by mainframe
I had my cables replaced about a year and a half ago, and for some reason the Stealership that did the work, set one side slightly tighter, so it doesn't release all the way to the stop, it's a small gap that up until yesterday never caused any trouble.

So what I want to know is, based on the info in this thread, can I just loosen the one cable back a half centimeter??

This would save me replacing the entire cable that I'm pretty certain is in perfect condition.
Yes, you can adjust both sides independently. No reason why you could not back up the cable that is too tight.
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Old August 3rd, 2007, 12:46   #7
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You definitely can't go by the VIN for the cable type. I ordered a set from tdiparts.com and got a pair of 1J0609721AC, which isn't the right cable, but I'll just add it to my parts inventory for when they go on my 2003 Jetta. I need to replace the cables on a 2000 Jetta, and even though the VIN is about 4000 units past the supposed split point, it still has the old style cables.

Also, try to stay away from the dealer for these parts, at least if you're in Southern Maine. I called Clair VW in Saco, and they want $26.40 each for 1J0 609 721E cables. I also called Morong VW in Falmouth and they want $39.96 EACH! I had to clarify with the parts guy, I thought it was $40 for two, but no. I guess I'll just order the parts online and do it next weekend instead!
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Old August 3rd, 2007, 18:07   #8
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And to update part numbers, as of this posting, AC is superceded by AP.
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Old July 29th, 2008, 07:34   #9
ozeire
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Default Bit of help needed .

Hi there

I'm trying to source brake cables for my 98 Mk4 Golf TDI . I was wondenering if the cables should have a treaded end on them becasue all the suppliers are telling me their cables don't

I'm sure that one end of the cable should tread into a bracket at the handbrake and thighten with a nut .

Regards

Alan .
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Old July 29th, 2008, 18:56   #10
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No, they don't have threads on either end.
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Old December 29th, 2008, 06:32   #11
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Did the PB cables on my wife's MK4 Jetta yesterday. It went very smoothly and I would have to say the most "difficult" part was dismantling the console and turning the 10mm nut on the cable yoke (tight quarters meant for a lot of little turns with an open end wrench).
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Old March 15th, 2009, 18:54   #12
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Default Some pictures...

I had these parking brake cables from MetalManParts.com sitting in my garage all winter.


I had been using zip ties to hold the brake cable ends into the autocompensator to keep the left one from slipping out.


I was able to re-use the "C"-shaped clip from both calipers.


I carefully removed for re-use the rear axle clip on each side.




Axle clip close up.


At this point the cable just slips out of the chassis tube, well the left side did anyway, the right side required extra twisting it eventually popped out. The metal thing just before the silver tube looks like a nut but it is not, there is no thread inside the tube.


With the new cables installed my autocompensator is now copacetic.
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Old August 8th, 2009, 16:35   #13
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Just replaced my right side one. Even a seven year old thread proves useful on TDIclub!
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Old December 6th, 2009, 14:53   #14
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Yesterday my parking brake on 00' NB quit working. I wasn't driving, well parking- so I'm not sure if there were any symptoms - noises etc. that went along with it. All I know is now you can pull the PB all the way up and there is no resistance what so ever ( the brake light does come on though).

Is it possible for this cable to break/snap etc.? Is it something serious or can I just put it in 1st when I turn the car off, and avoid parking on hills until the holidays when I have access to my dad and a hoist?
Thanks!
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Old January 16th, 2010, 11:48   #15
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I have an old-style (1J0609721E) cable and I'm going to replace both the cable and the caliper. Do I need to buy the newer style cable (1J0609721AC) to match the new caliper or does any cable work with any caliper?

Thanks!
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