1949 Chevy Pickup. Hybrid Electric/Diesel

Hey guys. A friend referred me here for some advice. I am a graduate student in mechanical engineering at Michigan Tech. I am working on a project to convert a 1949 Chevy 3100 pickup into a diesel/electric throughshaft parallel hybrid. Automated T5 transmission, RWD, the whole deal.
Anyway, our engine currently is a 1.3l CDTI from a Vauxhall Corsa D. However, we are having some issues getting around the immobilizer and what not. Although we haven't given that engine up yet, it's time to get a good backup plan. Which, I think is a VW engine (like I've been telling the team for 2 years now). Our 1.3L was rated at around 89hp and 140 ft-lbs. We would like something similar. Our electric motor is where most of the power comes from anyway.
My questions for you guys are:
1) What TDI would you recommend? My thought was a 1.9L from mid 2000s. I've found you can unlock them for cheap. So all we would need is the engine, ECU, and wiring harness correct?

2) Next question I have is regarding the clutch on the 1.9L. Anyone have a rough size off the top of their head?

3) Number two leads into this question. Anyone have any drawings on the bellhousing bolt pattern for a 1.9L or who I might contact about getting such a thing? We have a bellhousing CNC milled from a 6" thick billet chunk of Aluminum for our 1.3L and I'm hoping we can simply adapt that to the 1.9L with a plate rather than spend another $1000 on material for that.

Would a 1.9L from an 06 be unlockable? And does ~ $2300 seem like a fair price for engine, harness, and ECU?

Any of the ecus can be unlocked. Its easier on the 99-06 tdi's from what i understand. Imo delete is comon my cars ecu has it done. Depending on miles on the engine the ecu is worth 300-400 used so thats not bad. Check the cam in the motor they go bad often.

Ask, and ye shall recieve:
http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/TDI/tdi_engine_cad_drawing_small.pdf

The 99-03 motors are ve, rotary pump motors. The 04+ are pump deuse, utilizing some sort of electronic injection that I still don't understand. Anyways, if I'm not mistaken, at least on the 04's, and probably 05's, they have problems with the cams or lifters going bad if you use the wrong type of oil. Somebody please correct me, but it is along the lines of that.

Use an AHU

Hi there!

Everyone around here seems to "forget" the little 4cyl that started it all LOL.

Use an AHU. MK3 Jettas (1997-1999) B4 Passats (1996-1997) (NOTE: the 1Z also came in some of these early cars. they are an earlier build engine, externally and functionally identical in most respects to the AHU; some internal differences like pistons/rings etc, no egr etc...) It is a distributor pump engine.

As for Immo, you really only run into that starting with the ALH, found in MK4 cars (1999 up New beetle, 1999.5-2003 Jetta, 2000-2003 Golf.) this is also a distributor pump engine. same power/torque spec from factory as AHU. uses a vnt turbo, and a different block architecture. these are the "it" car for TDi aficionados, as the overall general opinion is that their combination of reliability, drivability, economy and bang for the buck is unmatched by the others.

2004 up mk4 uses Pumpe Duse ("unit injector") engines; like Samuraitd says, they have cam wear issues, though certainly not insurmountable. And they produce some serious power/torque for their size. I'm considering one for my next swap. No distributor pump, vnt turbo. same 1.9 displacement, though 2.0 variants exist.

the AHU/1Z wiring is very simple (as a matter of fact, they ALL can be, they're just time consuming LOL) and uses no IMMO. It sets up stand alone very easily, once removed form its native home. Parts are easy and cheap, the engine is a reliable workhorse. It can also be modded JUST like an ALH can. And it gets 40+ MPG/US in my Sidekick. And its hella fun. 2300 lbs or so soaking wet, a step up in nozzles and an RC tune... well, it scoots

Bell housing patterns are VERY readily available on the 'net, as the pattern is common to ALL 4 cylinder watercooled gas AND diesel engines, all the way back to the '70's. there are certain generational changes along the way, that affect block mounting points, accessory drive locations, etc, but the BELL pattern remains the same.

If you're looking for the SIMPLEST engine to meet the power torque specs you listed in your first posts, the AHU is your best bet. No immo, 90hp 155tq stock, wastegate turbo. Simple, reliable, bulletproof. I'm CERTAINLY NOT stating that the other TDi's aren't relaible, they just get more complex as you go along the model years. IMHO, If you want great road manners, VNT turbo and the like, and a newer architecture engine, ALH is your game. If you want newer still, all out power and torque. go with the later PD.

Remember, I'm just talking what I know of the ENGINES, not the cars they came in, as we're not interested in THOSE in this forum LOL!

Best of luck to you... Sounds like a FASCINATING project. Keep us updated!

Cheers

samuraitd said:

Ask, and ye shall recieve:
http://www.haywood-sullivan.com/vanagon/TDI/tdi_engine_cad_drawing_small.pdf

Click to expand...

Just remember that the ring gear diameter shown on that drawing is 287mm, but any ring gear you might find on a TDI car is 280mm. Ask me how I know..

If you have solidworks, I have a model of the ALH based off that drawing and some measurements. I also have a STL mesh of the engine if you want that.

superman22x said:

3) Number two leads into this question. Anyone have any drawings on the bellhousing bolt pattern for a 1.9L or who I might contact about getting such a thing? We have a bellhousing CNC milled from a 6" thick billet chunk of Aluminum for our 1.3L and I'm hoping we can simply adapt that to the 1.9L with a plate rather than spend another $1000 on material for that.

Click to expand...

Call Marshall Industrial and ask about their bellhousings - one of their cast aluminum units shipped from england would probably cost about the same as the aluminum billet you carved up.

http://www.mi-uk.com/
+44 (0)1491 834666

Use an 1z with harness and ECU removed from a 97 passat.

Its the easiest way to do a TDI swap as the harness is the closest this to a "standalone" harness as you can get. You will also be able to get the car the cheapest also.

Talk to member Franz about the immo on the vauxhall. If it can be flashed he could probably do it or knows someone who can. He's a great vendor in Amsterdam. Lots of people have used him on this forum and he has a good reputation. Sounds like your into the vaux pretty deep with the aluminum billet and all the time you've put into it. Franz might be able to help salvage it. Worth a try anyway.

Member greenphantom (Nico) is doing a similar build. Very different vehicle but same driveline idea. He's imported stuff that's hard to get here and had amazing technical knowledge in this area. Might pm/email him to see if he might help, and has some ideas for you to make life easier.

Please keep us updated. Very cool build. Godspeed--

Andrew

Interesting project. I have a 1950:


With some pretty ambitious plans:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=435302

onlyn8v said:

Use an 1z with harness and ECU removed from a 97 passat.

Its the easiest way to do a TDI swap as the harness is the closest this to a "standalone" harness as you can get. You will also be able to get the car the cheapest also.

Click to expand...

I second that. you can get a whole donor car for 2-3K in good condition at this point. no immobilizer, straight forward wiring, and it's been swapped into all kinds of cars and trucks 1000 times!

Thanks for all the info guys! Looking like the possibility of a VW engine as I would like is diminishing. GM sponsored project, people are shaking their heads when I brought up the idea... Oh well. If it were my money, I would put in a VW TDI. After reading about them, I'm tempted to do a future project of my own with one.