I have a method we have been showing and explaining for years.
With the automatics, it's not a problem, because the flex plate that attaches to the crank is thin and allows access.
It's the manual transmission that turns into the problem. The trick is to turn the crankshaft by using a 19mm 12pt socket from the front crank sprocket bolt and look for a radial slot in the flywheel. It's about 1 1/4" wide.
The screws that are a problem to get out are the two going into the rear main seal. Align the slot with one and now a 10mm 1/4" socket with a wobble extension about 6" long will easily access those two screws and all the other screws except the front passenger side (And as an Englishman once told me, except with a right side steering wheel...), you will have to use a wrench.
When reinstalling, there are two tricks. One is don't let any oil cross the sealing surface when reattaching the pan or you will be doing the job twice. On the transmission side of the back of the block, some oil will pool and if you wipe that out, usually you can get the job done the first time.
Put a thin layer of a high temp RTV onto the oil pan. Don't overdo the RTV, as it's a milled surface to milled surface. Almost all will be pushed out.
Then, use four screws on the sides of the pan to hold it loosely in place. Don't tighten any screw until all are installed.
Btw: it helps if you have a wire wheel to remove all the old RTV from the screws. Also I believe it's a 9/32" drill will remove the RTV from the pan's screw holes. Might be 17/64". Don't cut the holes bigger...just clean out the RTV.
Now, the other trick is the use of a 6" long 5mm ball allen. We use one with a 3/8" drive. The oil pan screws have a 10mm hex and a 5mm allen. By using the allen head, the screw will stick onto the long reach ball allen. Using the slot in the flywheel once again, turn it to each rear main seal screw hole in turn. Note the rear main seal screws are brass inserts, so they are inclined to cross thread and strip. By using the ball allen you can get the angle correct to line them up with the threads. Now you can hand-screw them in quite easily.
Once the two rear main seal screws are in, we return to the 10mm 1/4" drive to put the rest of the screws in.
DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN... 10 ft lbs is all it takes.
Be aware, there is one flywheel which we honestly disdain, made by EuroSpec. The shoulder of the flywheel is absolutely square and you cannot reach the rear main screws unless you remove the transmission or grind an access hole into the flywheel. If the slot method is used, match that cutout on the opposite side so the flywheel balance is not lost. Not that it matters much with that flywheel... that was the worst balanced flywheel we ever worked on... 12.4gr off. The clutch disc was not flat, either. Since we did every other correction on that flywheel, we also cut the proper bevel onto the crank side face, so it could be properly used.
We renamed it, "ChinaSpec".