Alh turbo on mk1 1.6 n/a

I've been restoring an mk1 rabbit I picked up a few months ago. It's an n/a 1.6

I've also got an extra vnt15 laying around. Now im almost positive it will bolt up. But does anyone have any idea on how to make the wastegate function properly? I'm well aware of the engine not being able to handle much boost. Seeing if this adventure is anything possible

It's a VNT vein not a waste gate. It's actuated by vacuum.
More vacuum, more boost.

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I would not attempt that.

Couple reasons:

First, if your 1.6L is the early one, the headgaskets are hard to keep bolted down already. If it is the later one, that is better, but still not ideal

If you get an even later 1.6L, the hydraulic one, you can at least upgrade to the MLS headgasket from an AAZ engine.

However, the factory 1.6L turbo engines had a far more turbo-friendly compression ratio (different pistons) as well as piston cooling jets and an oil cooler (your current engine has none of those items).

You would be better off finding a factory turbo 1.6L, but these were not super common even when new. They were only found in some Audi 4000s, Quantums, a handful of later A1 Rabbits and Jettas, and a handful of early A2 Jettas. I think the whole model year span was something like 1983 to 1986. The ECOdiesel Jetta, which came out mid-91 through 92, was also a turbo, but a very light pressure low emission unit with only a wee bit (7) more HP than the non-turbo version.

Once you realize how unobtainium those early TDs are, not to mention parts for them (as well as parts for the NA version for that matter) are quickly going away or are already gone, you may consider just converting it to a TDI engine. These are more readily available, the early TDIs (B4 Passat, A3 Jetta) are the same engine family as what you have, so they will bolt right in, and those engines easily outlast the rust-prone A3 bodies. You can also convert them to "M-TDI" meaning to run without any electronic controls if you wish. They are a simple wastegated turbo (the VNT is not) so can be easily controlled by what is already there.

I have been looking for a 1.6 turbo for a while and have found zero that were under a grand. I had considered doing a Tdi swap. But again I'm having a time finding anything reasonably priced that's under a few hrs away. Sounds like if I can't find something i like price wise, I will keep it n/a. As it will only be a weekend cruiser

There may be some info here .... http://vwdiesel.net/forum/

Also, seems there is another site for the IDI engines.

Sell your 1.6tdad well as the vnt and use the money to buy an AHU, a k14 turbo from an AAZ motor and an MTDI pump. I had this setup in a b3 passat it was a great motor.

1.6TD are hard to find, I've had one from a 1988 Canadian Jetta sitting on an engine stand for 18 years still haven't managed to get it done. It was supposed to go in my 86 Golf D, then it was going to be changed to longitudinal and wedged into my Fox 2dr sedan, which never happened because the 1.6NA in that car ran good and someone wanted to buy the Fox real bad.


Steve

I could sell the engine. But in my area people are struggling to sell them at $200. The cheapest I've found an ahu in my area is $1200. And almost a grand for an aaz

you can set up the actuator with a normal boost actuator can, then screw in the stop screw until your EMP at unloaded cruise is tolerable

you however should be aware that with the mechanical governor you have zero torque control, so you're really only doing it for altitude compensation and EGT control when loading it more harshly than it'd typically see. If you turn the fuel screw up too much you'll push the head gasket out real fast.

a much better suited mod for an NA IDI is to bump up the max speed governor so you still get full fuel past 1500 RPM, you would do well to wire up a rev limiter to the shutoff solenoid though.

9755 said:

I've been restoring an mk1 rabbit I picked up a few months ago. It's an n/a 1.6



I've also got an extra vnt15 laying around. Now im almost positive it will bolt up. But does anyone have any idea on how to make the wastegate function properly? I'm well aware of the engine not being able to handle much boost. Seeing if this adventure is anything possible

Click to expand...

I had done 2 of this 1.6 n/a to diesel with a vnt turbo and honestly i did put a choke cable ran it to inside the cabin. And I moved the vanes manually.
Yes i moved manually but I found out the turbo on small side it builds way passing 35psi. And thats just passing 1500 rpm so what i did was only to set the turbo at bigger side and taking off it lagging for a couple seconds but from there i have turbo all the time and it doesn’t build boost as the vanes set to small side so I ended just removing the choke cable for the vanes and leave the vanes rod at open turbo vanes and after 5 years the i did it. the car still working fine [emoji2369]


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I also contemplated leaving the vnt actuator and screwing it in or out until I find a moderate boost level. Id assume it would be full boost from the get go. Not exactly what I'm looking for. But I do have a lead on an ahu and trans. Hoping it pans out

That or just look online for a small external waste-gate and weld it into the egr exhoust coming from the turbo manifold i did that also and i can have more control of the turbo. (Check my build at instagram tacovw)
And man you should hear the sound of that external from my diesel black smoke from under the hood lol

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I also had considered cutting the turbo from the manifold and welding a plate to mount a different turbo on. I'm in zero rush so I'm open to other options and opinions. And if I can piece things together over this winter thats fine with me. This will only be a nice day/weekend cruiser. The only reason I'm looking to add the turbo is because my ol lady drove it the other day around the block after doing breaks. And it being about as fast as our lawnmower has her concerned for when we actually do drive it.

Mmm manifold is cast iron i don’t think it will hold man. But hey you can try [emoji2369]


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Cast isn't hard to weld to. Just need to heat it up and weld with nickel rod. But I haven't welded steel to it. I could also make a manifold and go from there. Still depends on if I can work out a deal with a guy that has an ahu

Im mot saying is hard to weld. I meant it cracks after welding it is what i mean. I have done it before tig welded and still cracks do to heat and cold changes


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A lot of guys here just MIG weld them, they seem to hold up ok

Taco8v said:

Mmm manifold is cast iron i don’t think it will hold man. But hey you can try

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good thing they're cast steel and not gray iron

run a boring bar into one, can peel an actual chip instead of the dust that iron makes

Cast is cast man cold and hot will fatigue the metal and crack It happens to me before [emoji2369] but hey you can try. Theres nothing the not one can stop you to do it bud.


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Here is what you need: https://www.hansautoparts.com/ROT906021A-Turbo-Controller.aspx
The supplier is questionable, I wouldnt purchase anything from this dude unless it was piddly stuff like this. And I would definitely hook up a cheap boost gauge to make sure it was working how you want.

brady rogers said:

Here is what you need: https://www.hansautoparts.com/ROT906021A-Turbo-Controller.aspx
The supplier is questionable, I wouldnt purchase anything from this dude unless it was piddly stuff like this. And I would definitely hook up a cheap boost gauge to make sure it was working how you want.

Click to expand...

Im not selling anything to him dude


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Taco8v said:

Cast is cast man cold and hot will fatigue the metal and crack It happens to me before [emoji2369] but hey you can try. Theres nothing the not one can stop you to do it bud.

Click to expand...

uh bud you think that yourself

plenty of superduty 60 knuckles got steering kits welded on them and you don't hear of many failures

wastegate on my 1749v also ain't fallen off despite being welded on there

Lol dude i work as a mechanic i was giving him an advice. Cold and hot temperature cracks even a metal the is not being weld it. Also im not a sales part i was just trying to give hime a tip.



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brady rogers said:

Here is what you need: https://www.hansautoparts.com/ROT906021A-Turbo-Controller.aspx
The supplier is questionable, I wouldnt purchase anything from this dude unless it was piddly stuff like this. And I would definitely hook up a cheap boost gauge to make sure it was working how you want.

Click to expand...

So you're saying if I were to get something like this, I could run the vnt15 and be able to control it easier?

Yes, buy that and either find any junker alh tdi you can pull the n75 valve and map sensor off of and your set. If you wanted to spend money or didn't have a junker tdi floating around, you could just buy a new n75 valve and map sensor.

You will also need a bit of vacuum line as well to run from your vaccuum pump to your n75 valve and then from your n75 valve to your turbo.

You will have to figure out where to put your map sensor in the charge air pipe somewhere as well. One of these will help: https://www.ebay.com/itm/REV9-INTER...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I used one on my jetta when i plumbed in my fmic. I dont have an aluminum welder so I jb welded mine. After about 3 months of oily intake air at 30psi it had enough and blew off hard enough to pop a nice little dent in my hood. I then bugged my friend to get it welded for me.



Only other thing would be where you would want to put it in your car because it has an adjustable knob to set you max boost. That, and wiring it up to a switched 12v power wire. Im assuming it requires 12volts to run.

Im going to buy one of these when I put an extra vnt15 on my rabbit.

In my mind this would be perfect for a 1.6 because of the weak headgaskets and such. You can easily control your max boost with the turn of a knob. Honestly if it were mine I would watch my boost gauge and set the knob to where it would max out at 12psi on hard pulls and leave it there.

This very well could be the way I go. I have an extra n75 and map sensor

Sounds like a plan man! I think there are a lot of people who have this same problem controlling a vnt accurately w/out the wiring harness. Let us know how it works.