02M Installation

I just got the 02M kit and am trying to upgrade from 02J. In the past I had a transmission jack but I had to bench press the 02J back in due to the need to rotate etc even after removing output drivers. Now I see the 02M is heavier than the 02J. As I said I have a trans jack but it is not that good when needing to rotate tranmission into position and then it is just in the way. Does anybody have a good trick for getting the 02M into position?

Pull the engine as forward as you can once the dog bone and rear trans mount are out. I bench the 02ms in the same way but they are alot heavier. Put the differential side up in the hole first is how I do them. It also helps to remove the axle flange next to the bell housing its makes life easier. Drain the fluid first so you dont take a bath in it.

Thanks for the tip.

Last time I did one, the car was on a 2 post lift at head height and it took three of us (two of them were the mechanics) to accurately pick-up and wobble the gearbox into place. I would hate to have to do something like that solo.

Thanks! You are right. I think ideally you need 2 people to bench press the thing (at least my with my upper body strength ) and a third to pop the bolt in. Unfortunately there are no tdiclub folks around here and I still dont know the golf4.de guys too well.

ah yes, looking back I do think three people lifted it initially, then once at shoulder height the guy doing the main mechanical work took a role of wobbling and getting bolts in. From what I remember, it wasn't easy even for two of us to keep the 02M box supported. It weighs an absolute ton!

Ed, I've got it.

Build yourself a Herm-o-hanger for the transmission!

My first TB change I built myself a Herm-o-hanger for the motor because I only had one jack. It worked like a charm for holding the whole motor up, so I'm sure it would work for installing a transmission.

I can't find a picture of the herm-o-hanger, because Herm built it so long ago. But it's quite simple... just buy a 2x6 and a 4x4 crossbeam to make a engine hoist out of. Drill a hole where the transmission needs to be lifted and install all-thread, washers, and bolts. All you need to do to raise the transmission is tighten the bolt on top of your new hoist. The hoist rests securely on the part of the front fenders that bolt to the frame. So, it will take the weight rather safely.

Now install some kind of safe bolt and hook at the end of your all-thread that can hold the weight of the transmission and can turn without falling off the end of the thread. Tie some strong nylon straps around the bottom of your transmission, and start turning the nut at the top of the hoist you built to raise up the transmission.

Alternatively, I may have seen a metal engine hoist in your garage in NY? If you still have that, perhaps you can use it to help you get the transmission up into place?

Best,

Mike

AHA, Aaron (Growler) has a longitudinal herm-o-hanger that seems to work pretty well for him. Perhaps you can rig up something like this to help you out?

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=297043

I used a method similar to what MT is describing, but with a Harbor Freight engine support. I dropped a chain from the support to one of the bolt holes on the top of the transmission, toward the rear. I used a floor jack under the trans to support most of the weight, and cranked up on the threaded hook on the engine support. This pulled the rear of the trans up so it was pointed vertically. With a combination of lifting with the chain and the jack it rotated right in to place, no bench pressing required. Piece of cake, didn't even need to remove the output flanges.

I did it by myself. I used a floor jack, a couple of ratcheting straps, and a harbor freight engine support beam. Hardest part was getting the old 01M into the back of my truck to ship out.

A handy tool which helped with lowering the 02M, but refitting needed people to lift it due to being a bit awkward.

Thanks VWDAVID, MT, JBE, hunter, KanPanic and Devon for your responses. I think JBE's comments hit the bulls eye. Others also alluded to this approach. I have the harbor freight beam and various jacks. I have always had the HB beam across engine bay on clutch jobs, so no prob there. I think the key as JBE pointed out is the combo of the jack and the chain from above. I had thought of the suspending from top method and the jack method, but they wont work on their own. The combo is needed to get the additional degrees of freedom i.e. the rotate rear vertically through the opening and then rotate back down to get in position. JBE's experience of not even removing flanges is remarkable, given every guru says you need to remove them, although I prob will remove them just in case (at least the pass side one). thanks! ~ed

I use a motorcycle or low pro transmission jack to put 02m's in. Remove the drive flanges. The key is to stand it straight up on end as others have said. Once it's up in the "hole", turn it 90* and one or two people should be able to jiggle it onto the motor. Works like a charm every time. No heavy benching, minimal french, and quick.

Well I got the job done. I got 3000rpm at 180kmh in 6th on the Autobahn today.

Was a pretty brutal job though to do alone, at least for me. Managed to drop the diff output flange on my face and needed stitches in eye brow area.

Thanks for all the tips, especially Boetje. He gives detailed instructions that are spot on. This forum has phenomenal people. Thanks to Ryan for getting the 02M DRW to the common man and for his advice too.

I ended up using the tranny jack and a simple winch from above. Winch suspended from Harbor Freight Engine Support. Basically I had the tranny strapped in regular horizontal orientation and winched up slowly, until just below subframe. At that point used the jack and some elbow grease to rotate and get it over subframe. After that the thing begins to fall into place as you winch some more. Just remember to put the pass side diff flange back in the last stages so that it will meet the drive axle head to head. For driver side i left flange in but had to remove control arm and sway bar link to put in the other axle.

I used the old clutch line, bent it around the tranny mount and used bolt stud on mount to make an Al strap holder. For the Power steering there is bolt receiver on the side of the tran near side skirt to secure another holder. Used a stand off there. Then used the old holder below starter motor. Both together hold power steering line pretty good. Once I bent the clutch line around the mount it pretty much lines up with the clutch slave entrance without rubbing anything else.

Dieselgeek has a video procedure for calibrating the shifter cables.

Well I was relieved to get everything done and test drive it to see it is doing what it was supposed to. lol.

The only thing I notice is the shifting is a bit rougher/notchy than the 02J. You sort of feel as if the the synchro rings going in. I put in 2.4 litre of the g 052 171 a2 fluid. Not sure if this shifting is normal or I have the wrong amount of fluid. Can too much be bad too? I noticed the shifter weight and shift distance on top of tranny is smaller, maybe that makes it more work?

The car feels a bit different with additional weight. 02M defintely gives different character to car for sure.

eddie_1 said:

Well I got the job done. I got 3000rpm at 180kmh in 6th on the Autobahn today.

Was a pretty brutal job though to do alone, at least for me. Managed to drop the diff output flange on my face and needed stitches in eye brow area.

Thanks for all the tips, especially Boertje. He gives detailed instructions that are spot on. This forum has phenomenal people. Thanks to Ryan for getting the 02M DRW to the common man and for his advice too.

I ended up using the tranny jack and a simple winch from above. Winch suspended from Harbor Freight Engine Support. Basically I had the tranny strapped in regular horizontal orientation and winched up slowly, until just below subframe. At that point used the jack and some elbow grease to rotate and get it over subframe. After that the thing begins to fall into place as you winch some more. Just remember to put the pass side diff flange back in the last stages so that it will meet the drive axle head to head. For driver side i left flange in but had to remove control arm and sway bar link to put in the other axle.

I used the old clutch line, bent it around the tranny mount and used bolt stud on mount to make an Al strap holder. For the Power steering there is bolt receiver on the side of the tran near side skirt to secure another holder. Used a stand off there. Then used the old holder below starter motor. Both together hold power steering line pretty good. Once I bent the clutch line around the mount it pretty much lines up with the clutch slave entrance without rubbing anything else.
Exactly!

Dieselgeek has a video procedure for calibrating the shifter cables.

Well I was relieved to get everything done and test drive it to see it is doing what it was supposed to. lol.

The only thing I notice is the shifting is a bit rougher/notchy than the 02J. You sort of feel as if the the synchro rings going in. I put in 2.4 litre of the g 052 171 a2 fluid. Not sure if this shifting is normal or I have the wrong amount of fluid. Can too much be bad too? I noticed the shifter weight and shift distance on top of tranny is smaller, maybe that makes it more work?

I think I put in a little more than you did since my car was on jack stands. I don't think you have too much.
I found the shifting better than the 5 speed that I had in my bug.

The car feels a bit different with additional weight. 02M defintely gives different character to car for sure.

Click to expand...

Eddie
Glad you got it finished. What, no pics of the stitches?

Thanks Jack! I added another ~0.4 litre on ramps until it started overflowing and the shifting got much better.

One more point I wanted to add for others is that as I brought the tranny into final position, I noticed there was not enough room to clear the subframe completely and mate to engine. Doh! It was because the engine was lowered eariler to remove the trans mount bolts from the side.

I know this is completed already but I've always done clutches/diffs/trans swaps on the mk4s almost completely from a top working position. I still drop it down obviously but you can get a much better picture of how it needs to rotate and what is blocking it if you are lifting it up vs pushing it up.

It can be hard to reach the trans on the ground from over the fender so just put it on a brick or even a floor jack to get it up higher, but once you can reach it just pull it up and twist until it clears then put it on. A lot less stressful not being under it too

I set it on a trans jack and also put a rope around it to have my helper pull it up as I jack it into place and position it...that is if I have a helper .
I also found that pushing the engine forward is most useful in clearing the sub frame.
Hey Eddie, I'm going to do a 5 to 6 speed swap on a bug Saturday. Get over here and help me!

Man, I wish I could just jet over to Idaho. Would be more than happy to help out. Have been to Idaho couple of times, have great memories.

eddie_1 said:

Well I got the job done. I got 3000rpm at 180kmh in 6th on the Autobahn today.

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Just to let you know, you should be capable of about 255km/h in 6th at around 4000rpm....

Just letting you know....

MrVermin

Nice work! What clutch did you go with?

mrvermin said:

Just to let you know, you should be capable of about 255km/h in 6th at around 4000rpm....

Just letting you know....

MrVermin

Click to expand...

Thanks, I'll have to check it out, when there is less traffic.

dieselpower04 said:

Nice work! What clutch did you go with?

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The DMF, Pressure Plate were the basic Sachs ARL type setup. The Clutch had some type of kevlar upgrade. Ryan got it for me. No problem holding my power though.

Thought I'd upload some basic diagrams of the 6speed, which I found interesting. Basically all cogs are in contact with all cogs on drive side (red) and driven sides (blue and grey). The ratio is set by the green ring which you push in to select the gear. This locks 1 of the output shafts (blue or grey) with the input shaft and both output shafts are in contact with output gear (Stirnrad - green).

6 speed


Shift Components:



Neutral



Synchronization Step:



In Gear:

eddie_1 said:

The DMF, Pressure Plate were the basic Sachs ARL type setup. The Clutch had some type of kevlar upgrade. Ryan got it for me. No problem holding my power though.

Click to expand...

Not worried the DMF will explode? I thought most things over-stock could cause that?

dieselpower04 said:

Not worried the DMF will explode? I thought most things over-stock could cause that?

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I ran a DMF in my 600+hp A3 for close to 40K miles (after it already had 40k miles on it). I only took it out since I got a clutch and flywheel from a friend after another parts deal went through so it was there when I pulled the engine for something else. It was flawless when it came out with over 80K on it.

Like failures of most clutch related parts it isn't a total power output that kills it is how that extra power is applied that is a problem.

dieselpower04 said:

Not worried the DMF will explode? I thought most things over-stock could cause that?

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Apparently not all DMFs have a bad track record. The ARL/ASZ DMF apparently did not have an issue. One guy said he used it for racing upto 220WHP no problem. He also said in Germany the Sachs DMFs have done better than the Luk. Apparently Luk had most of the DMF issues. But I'm sure someone else could chime in better than me.

Check out this link for the Sachs catalogue.

eddie_1 said:

Apparently not all DMFs have a bad track record. The ARL/ASZ DMF apparently did not have an issue. One guy said he used it for racing upto 220WHP no problem. He also said in Germany the Sachs DMFs have done better than the Luk. Apparently Luk had most of the DMF issues. But I'm sure someone else could chime in better than me.

Check out this link for the Sachs catalogue.

Click to expand...

Seems to be the opposite here in the 'states. The LUK in the early mk4s seemed to be the stronger, longer-lasting DMF setup, whereas the Sachs has more failures and less clamping force.

I have a LUK in my golf that came from Ryan (i think its for the PD115) and another LUK in my Jetta that came from a local vendor which is supposed to be for the 1.8T. Finally I have the Sachs for the PD150 that I got from Ryan new. It is by far the smoothest and strongest clutch of the bunch. In fact I ordered another new one from him as a spare.

Sorry to hear about your eyebrow , yeah it would be tough without a hoist and alone...Hut ab, Eddie We usually just lift it in with 2 guys and skyack ofcourse up in the air on the hoist.Cant imagine doing one on the floor , yeah hoists spoil you...