Injector pump not leaking... pouring!

Son of a bisket Ive had a very small intermitent leak of fuel coming from underneath the IP on my 2001 Jetta. Well its not intermitent anymore. Front end of the engine is COVERED with fuel from the base of the IP to the plastic "skid plate" Anyone make gasket sets for the Base??? Ive seen them ( YES by searching) for the top end and middle but nothing for the base... Or am I just screwed

TD, I'd bet your IP is leaking from the o-ring that seals the main pump body to the distributor body (the rusty iron end of the pump where the steel injector lines bolt in).

Mine's leaking here - well, not leaking, not dripping, not pouring...it's SQUIRTING out the bottom from this joint...drove 2 miles yesterday, used about a GALLON of fuel!

When it leaks here, it looks like it's coming straight out the bottom of the IP. This o-ring is included in Bosch seal kit # 2-467-010-003. Kit is available from Bosch or diesel injection shops - not VW.

The distributor body slides off the main pump body after you remove the injector lines and several allen-head bolts.

I'm sure you know, but just a caution: don't get even the TINIEST bit of dirt in the IP when you pull it open - get everything spotlessly clean before taking anything apart.

So no, you're not screwed - just got a little work ahead of you

Woah horsey! It aint just that simple, if you just pull the head off the end of the pump you're gonna be picking bits of IP off the ground/ skidplate for ages...
Read up on distributor head removal before you attempt it!

Indeed - I know full well what a delicate process distributor-body removal is. No implication of "easy" was meant, but I can see how it could've been interpreted that way by the unwary, so good clarification DPM.

The important thing TD, is that the fix is a whole lot easier & cheaper than a whole new pump, so whether you feel up to doing it yourself, or find a TDI expert to do it for you, you'll save $1000+ over the dealer's "solution"

Let us know what happens.

you can order the seal(s) from www.dieselgeek.com

here is a direct link:
http://www.dieselgeek.com/Categories.bok

He's also got the o-ring for the dist head, couldn't find it on the web.

-rob

Thanks for the info guys! Im sending this link to the expert Im gonna have do this and see if its an option. cross your fingers.

Hey guys, I have a leaking, or dripping IP also. Mine is on a 96 Passat. The mechanic I took it too want $650.00 to re- seal it. I would like to do it my self. The mechanic said something about a computer, and a specialist needs to do it. Is that the Vag- com that people are refuring too? What manual do you recomend I have with me if I attempt it, and do you feel a pretty handy person should attempt something like this?

It depends on where it is leaking. If it is at the top cover plate, you can do it no problem. If it is the middle horizontal section, you'll need to be sure and set it back down exactly where it was before (and you will need VAG COM to verify that you've done so)

If it is at the large o-ring around the dist head it gets complicated. Most steps for replacing this seal are obvious, but one thing I have discovered is that jacking up the drivers side as high as you can will help keep the cam plate and rollers where they are. and make sure you re-install the lower drivers side pump mounting bolt before attempting to start the engine.

I just did another 96 passat the other day (non-biodiesel user). I guess these just start leaking after 10 years.

Me thinks it's the ULSD kicking in and seals are retreating now that everyone is buying ULSD, even the red dye is now ULSD. No or very low aromatics from the hydortreat process of the fuel is not causing shrinkage as much as it's now reducing the over swelling of the seals from highly aromatic high sulfur fuel in the past?

I hope DG has a lot of o-ring kits in stock! Looks like we're gonna need 'em.


http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=147828

CaJones said:

Me thinks it's the ULSD kicking in and seals are retreating now that everyone is buying ULSD, even the red dye is now ULSD. No or very low aromatics from the hydortreat process of the fuel is not causing shrinkage as much as it's now reducing the over swelling of the seals from highly aromatic high sulfur fuel in the past?

Click to expand...

This is exactly what went through my mind when I started to read about the leaks . I went through this on several injection pumps in 92 & 93 after the first fuel change over . I am hoping you are wrong about the non-highway being ULSD .

I just added the Viton pump head o-ring seals to my site under "TDI Injection". I also included the measurement so that anyone stuck with a shop that doesn't use outside-supplied parts can at least get the correct Buna o-ring in a pinch. 60mm x 2.5mm is the correct size.

I removed the dist. head, and have run into problems described in a few previous posts: several of the internal parts have fallen out of place. Can I properly replace everything without removing the whole IP? The pump has been working just fine. I was needing to replace the seal on he dist. head. Your help is appreciated!

Try Runonbeer's suggestion below first. If it doesn't work for you then I would remove the pump to ensure all of the parts make it back in correctly. Gravity is not your friend when little parts fall out. This exact thing happened to me when I tried the o-ring swap for the first (only) time and I pulled the pump to get everything back in correctly. Runonbeer was there and it was his first time replacing the o-ring as well. He has since figured out how to change the pump head seal while the pump is in the car. We may get the procedure down in bits and bytes and post it to either his site or mine soon.

Jack up the drivers side of the car as high as you can get it to go (this will get gravity at least somewhat on your side). Stand on the passenger side of the engine and reach over and into the pump to re-insert the rollers in their guides (take note of the orientation of the outer washer face). cut a coat hanger into a 5" section and bend it into a boxed "U" shape. this will allow you to hold the cam plate to re-insert it after you get the rollers back in; don't try and use a magnet to hold it, you'll just end up pulling all the rollers out everytime (I know this)

formal write up with pictures to come.

Leaking 96 Diesel Injection Pump (Jetta TD)

Runonbeer ,since I'm about to attempt to change o-rig seal in my IP your guide with pictures would be worth more than tousand words or $.
I'm waiting patiently.
Thanks so much

To be honest I've got a lot of things ahead of the write up but I'll get too it as soon as I can. 5 cars this week plus fuel runs (and for some reason I'm reading like 3 different books right now )

I think there are enough parts to do the trick! The kit is for A3 and A4 pumps.

http://www.worldimpex.com/item_detail.html?sku=552404

I would have liked to have had the pump rebuilt with vitton gaskets and seals but the turnaround time for a rebuild was just gonna be too long for me. I got lucky and Charley (kerma) just happened to get an 11mm pump in the day I called. Its in the car now. Had John at Eurojet install it. Im like a mile from him. So... Here's my question. After spending so much to replace the pump can I expect to be doing this on a regular basis with the crap fuel there putting out?

I would look at the fuel changes (ULSD and/or Biodiesel) like a minor mid life crisis for your TDI if you believe in such things. My gut is that we will see a decent number of seeping pumps pop up in the next couple of years. I think everyone should prepare themselves mentally for the possibility of a mid-life pump seal change. Don't fear the seeper! (I do amuse myself sometimes...)

As far as leaks go, my personal opinion is that if you run a certain chemical past a rubber seal for a long time and then switch that chemical and/or shock it with super cold temps then it will lose it's adhesion to the mating surface and start leaking, especially if it is nearing the end of its service life anyway. These seals were never meant to last forever. It's nothing to fear and I don't think it will be anything other than possiblly one seal change in 200K.

This is only my opinion and I could be wrong...

The quantity adjuster and top seal are pretty easy as long as you have a VAG-COM and are mindfull about dirt and contaminates. I haven't done the dist. head seal yet but I would recommend that if the T-belt is anywhere near it's time, I would say just pull the pump and swap the o-ring with the pump vertical. Is this a safe assumption?

Vertical does make it easier though we're hoping to get the in-car procedure down in web form in the next coupla months.

Just bought a 91 "ECO" diesel Jetta, 195,000mi, car was parked because of massive fuel leak, owner (a very perky blonde) was quoted $900. + labor for the repair...so she sold it for $300. I'm still a Peugeot diesel nut, sort of, and remembered this French site's procedure, illustrated, that is a godsend for resealing the VE pump, or trying to fit "spilled" components back in their respective positions. Check it out!

http://www.forum-auto.com/sqlforum/section12/sujet293129.htm

The above picture show is in French but Google does a nice job of translating it to English.

wrench hound said:

Just bought a 91 "ECO" diesel Jetta, 195,000mi, car was parked because of massive fuel leak, owner (a very perky blonde) was quoted $900. + labor for the repair...so she sold it for $300. I'm still a Peugeot diesel nut, sort of, and remembered this French site's procedure, illustrated, that is a godsend for resealing the VE pump, or trying to fit "spilled" components back in their respective positions. Check it out!

http://www.forum-auto.com/sqlforum/section12/sujet293129.htm

Click to expand...

Darn. I thought you had a picture of the perky blond...

(C'mon, you guys were all thinking the same thing.)

Lito,

Thanks for the heads-up on the pump seal kit above. I've ordered one from Impex.

If you're monitoring this thread, do you or corradoTDI (or anyone else) know of a diagram(s) for location of/installation of the seals?

Thanks for any info.

Mel

Diagram

In the process of rebuilding ip waiting for seals. I found a diagram on the web that might help you http://www.zexel.com/distributor_pumps_ve_exp.htm
zexel is the company that makes bosch rebuild parts I hope this helps

Thanks gotcha... and good luck!

Mel

Wow, that's an amazing site (the french one).

What materials are the seals from impex made out of? If I got it I'd like it to be viton instead of buna-n, obviously.

If there were a how to on replacing the seals that leak externally I would be very grateful. Perhaps another video DVD?

Leaks when cold-starting on ULSD

My problem of late has been when I use the ULSD for a couple of tank fills, and
have not filled using any Bio. The see-thru portion of the fuel intake line (between
filter and IP) is all air. While trying to crank, after a while the fuel dribbles down
an intercooler pipe shroud, onto the AC compressor, and down to the belly pan and
around it.

Once the car gets running for the day, it starts fine and runs fine until it has cooled
off for several hours or more. Vehicle is a 2002 Jetta TDI wagon, 103k miles.
When I put some (a few gallons) of B99 into the tank, splashed onto the existing
(ULSD) contents, the air no longer gets into the line and it starts and runs fine,
almost no bubbles are visible. I tried to take some pictures yesterday which were
lousy, then spray-cleaned the areas. Today I took some which were somewhat
better. Most areas were clean, for example all return lines and hoses, fuel cutoff
solenoid etc.

I'm a rookie about the FIP; does it look like my leak could be inside the distributor
head, and/or the seal between the head and the main pump housing? Thanks; Larry.

1. Distributor at right, main pump body is at top:

2. Distributor end of IFP ... fuel seems to have run down from the round plug at center,
around the lowest fuel output line: