Rickstah said:
So I guess the question is, should I be concerned about the rings getting worse after larger nozzles go in and I begin pushing it harder? Thanks for the info.
The issue is not larger nozzles, but rather age and mileage. Its safe to say that cylinder leakage and oil control will not improve after 144K, and will eventually get worse. But having said that, with diligent maintenance and favorable operating conditions, you might go another 144K before compression and oil control are reduced.
Have your mechanic measure cylinder bore taper and roundness. Proper technique is to use a dial bore gauge or inside/outside mic., not just feeling the ring ridge. Taper will probably be minimal, but make sure its checked because if it is significant, re-ringing would be a waste of time...and oversize pistons would be the correct solution. Again, pretty unlikely at your mileage.
The concern I have about re-ringing with the block remaining in the car is the preparation. Re-ringing requires breaking cylinder wall glaze and removing the ring ridge, if any. Both of these procedures require carefully sealing the bottom of the cylinder so that abrasive (from the glaze-breaking honing mandrel or Flex-hone), metal, lubricant, solvent, and soap & water don't enter the crankcase. Needless to say, the whole process should be done meticulously.
Cylinders honed in a honing machine (block out of the car) are brushed with solvent, then washed with soap & water and bore brush TWICE, and sometimes there is still imbedded micro grit remaining in the "cross-hatching" of the cylinder wall. A white paper towel wiped throughout the cleaned and dried cylinder shouldn't show the slightest trace of brown. Light glaze-breaking honing with block in the car produces much less grit, but impeccable cleaning (and cylinder bottom sealing) is still a must.