Help, 2005 golf stalled and won't start

I have a 2005 golf, 1.9L, 5 speed manual with 140,000 miles. I was driving down the highway at 80mph and my car stalled and the temperature warning light came on. I coasted to a stop and while waiting for it to cool down I noticed my coolant reservoir had ample coolant in it. There was no steam present like in most overheat situations, so I don't know if it actually overheated. The car cranks as normal, but the car still wouldn't start a couple of days later, so I replaced my fuel pump and relay 109. The ASV is open. The timing belt and water pump were replaced about 35,000 miles ago and the belt still appears to be in good condition. Please help me get her running again. Thank you.

Bump for help. Any ideas guys?

unhook the boost pipe from the intake and try cranking

I unhooked boost pipe and mityvaced the return from tandem pump at the T. Had good fuel without bubbles. Still no start.

You have a pump in the tank so you don't need to worry about air in the fuel system. You can remove the line coming out of the filter to the head and turn the key on to see if you get fuel coming out.

You can check for codes.

Does the tach register when cranking the engine?

Fuel comes out after the filter when cranking. I can't check codes until tomorrow, and my tach registers when cranking. I just bought a cheap reader though because I don't have the money for a ross tech right now, so hopefully it will still be able to tell me something

I also get fuel back to the T on the filter when cranking, but not as much that comes out of the filter. I dont know if its restricted inside of the tandem pump or if its supposed to be like that.

check the timing belt . sounds like the water pump seized and shredded the belt

Flakey or faulty crank shaft position sensor might be the culprit.

When a car stalls, a bunch of the warning lights come on. If the coolant warning came on by itself, then I might fear that Dimitri16V above could be correct in his diagnosis. I also agree with JB05 that a bad crank shaft speed sensor will prevent the engine from running (when mine was failing it didn't set any check engine codes).

Ok, my scanner came in today. I have 3 glow plug sensor troubles, which is due to a faulty harness. I have known about this for a while as the new harness is in the garage waiting to be installed. I also have code 17987 which is an immobilizer issue and 19464 cam shaft sensor. Would the cam shaft sensor cause the immobilizer issue? How do I fix it? Also will erasing these codes cause any issues? Also, my timing belt appears to be in good condition.

Cam sensor shouldn't stop the car from starting (Although the crank sensor will).. The Imb fault might the culprit here.

Water pump seized. God willing nothing in the motor is trashed. Pray for no bent valves

I was hoping I was wrong

for the record , who was the water pump manufacturer ?

Seized water pump means teeth stripped off of the belt. Teeth stripped off of the belt means it's probably out of time.

Before pulling anything apart, check the timing relationship of the crank, and cam. If they are more than two teeth off at the cam, you need to pull the head and inspect for valve to piston contact.

Im not sure of the manufacturer. I intend on finding out though. When I do I will post it. I am taking it back to the guru who installed it and did my timing belt this weekend. It was only 40,000 miles ago when he replaced it.

I am not knowledgeable wnough to take on timing isses myself. I will let the guru deal with that and pray for the best outcome.

I bet that was a Saleri pump

since the engine stopped , the pistons hit the valves . send the head to Frank06 for a rebuilt

Around how much to have him rebuild it?

Get in touch with him, he occasionally lurks in here

it won't be cheap , lifters , cam , replacement bolts , valves , guides , the works but he does a good job

Dimitri16V said:

I was hoping I was wrong

for the record , who was the water pump manufacturer ?

Click to expand...

The site that it was purchased from sends out 2 brands. Its either GEBA or HEPU. Both have metal impellers. He is going to let me know wich one it is when he pulls it off.

It is a Geba water pump. The gear pulled off of the shaft. The good news is the valves are fi nm e

sparkyk said:

It is a Geba water pump. The gear pulled off of the shaft. The good news is the valves are fi nm e

Click to expand...

You sure about that?

Valves in TDIs are straight up and down with the pistons so even if you get valve/piston strikes, it doesn't bend the valve. Instead it will mushroom the valve stem a bit which will run OK for about the next 1 - 15k km when the valve head will finally break off and cause Badness to happen.

sparkyk said:

It is a Geba water pump. The gear pulled off of the shaft. The good news is the valves are fi nm e

Click to expand...

How do you know for sure that the valves are OK?

If the cam and crank are far enough out of time that it won't start or even fire at all, you most certainly have had valve and piston contact which means the head HAS to come off for a rebuild. I suspect that when you last tried to start the engine and it failed to start, the crank spun as it normally would but the cam probably didn't turn at all due to timing belt slippage due to loss of tension on the belt from the sprocket falling off the WP shaft. The same thing likely happened when the sprocket came off the wp shaft, causing it to stall out when you were driving it. Bottom line is the head HAS to come off for a rebuild.

Often when failure like this occurs, the owner brings the car to a shop and the mechanic puts a new timing belt on and repairs/replaces whatever else was damaged and the engine appears to run fine again. But since valves got smacked by pistons, the valves are weakened at the base of their stem at the valve head and usually fail shortly afterwards. The result is the engine drops a valve about 2000 miles later or a month or so after the timing belt event and completely trashes the engine.

This is why we are all saying that after there has been valve and piston contact, the head HAS to come off for a rebuild.

Sorry to hear. Good luck.

I am going off what marty bergel, a trusted mechanic, told me. He is the one working on it now. I assume he looked into that, but I will check

not to be rude but if the belt lost a bunch of teeth , there is no way in hell the pistons didn't hit the valves

check the top of the lifters for cracks

check this
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=381325&highlight=timing

Give a good squeeze on the coolant hoses. Do you hear any air rushing inside?

Any white colored smoke from the tailpipe? Coolant color?

How did it stall? How many miles from start of trip?