Gasser VWs are always welcome here.
I do not sure what exact stuff the Bentley shows, may not have a bunch of color pictures. But really it is not too bad of a job.
Remove the grill (you gotta remove the secondary hood release rod).
Remove the front bumper skin (gotta disconnect the side marker and fog lamp connectors as you pull it off).
Loosen the charge air hoses from both sides of the crossover pipe.
If it is an autobox, I find it easier to remove the ATF cooler lines (cap them off).
Remove the air inlet tube going to the air cleaner from the front carrier.
Remove the PS fluid reservoir cover, and unclip/unplug the wire connectors there, and unplug both headlamp harness connectors.
Drain the coolant (drain is exposed after bumper cover is removed).
Hang loose the PS cooler pipe, horns, and radiator upper hose.
Remove the 7 Torx bolts holding the lock carrier assembly in place, replacing one on each side temporarily with an extra long 8mm x 1.25 bolt and slide the entire lock carrier assembly forward.
Remove the clutch-driven fan (if euipped, some AWMs have them, some do not). Remove the accessory belts.
Remove the upper timing belt cover (you will need to move a vacuum hose and small coolant hose out of the way to gain clearance.
Set #1 DTC by lining up mark on cam sprocket with mark on valve cover (straight up) and the mark on the crank pulley with mark on lower cover.
Remove the crank pulley and lower cover.
Remove the timing belt, the tensioner, damper, and the water pump.
Install the new water pump, loosely install the timing belt on the crank sprocket, then put the lower cover and crank pulley back in place.
Line the crank mark back up, put the new tensioner on, while putting the belt over the cam sprocket and sliding the damper assembly in from the side (it sorta only fits one way, with a little tab that slides under the front flange seal down low). Then put both the bolts in place. You will need to hold the tensioner pulley up as you slide the damper under its little 'foot' (you'll see what I mean, study it before you take it apart).
Once all in place, check your marks, make sure the belt's slack is all to the pass. side where the tensioner is. Pretension the belt, use a 6mm Allen as a spacer (the manual will have a pic of this). Once all said and done, pull the little clip off the damper and it will come out and hold pressure.
Rotate the engine around once by hand and double check your marks.
Then reassemble everything else, taking care to line the lock carrier back up with the marks from the 7 bolts' washers.
Bleeding the cooling system can be tricky, but I have found patience and heat cycles above all else does the trick. The bleed port in the heater hose I have found does not do as much as you'd think.
Much of the procedure is similar to the BHW, and some of that (with pics) can be found on this side regarding the BS upgrade.