Tdijarhead
Top Post Dawg
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2013
- Location
- Lawrenceville PA
- TDI
- 2003 TDI Jetta Daughters Car, 2001 TDI Beetle, Wife’s car, 2005 Golf TDI Mine, all 5 spds
2001 Beetle 201k mikes 5 spd.
My daughter called today, her car had quit on the side of the road. Fortunately it was a secondary road so very little traffic. She was coming around a curve and heard a metal noise and the car shut off. It would start but has a “knock” that is far from normal.
I had it towed home and into my garage. I have inspected the belt, no missing teeth, I had that happen once. I set the engine at TDC. The crank is locked, I have a metalnerd long reach cam lock so I have not removed the valve cover at this point.
The long reach cam lock won’t quite fit into the cam slot, I’m talking maybe the thickness of a piece of paper or two. I can get it to fit if I jiggle it and loosen the two cam lock bolts a bit. So I think the cam and crank are close, real close just not exact.
The tensioner is tight the tang still in the hole, if anything the stub is a bit past the slot but that may be because the engine has not fully cooled yet.
After getting the crank and cam at TDC I went to put the tool in the ip hole and it’s nowhere to be found. I can find what I assume is the infamous “sucker hole” at approximately the 6 o’clock position. So I think the ip is several teeth off.
Will the ip being out of time cause a knocking noise? I was sure when I first backed it into the garage that the belt would be missing several teeth and severely out of time. The current belt was done in March of 2017, by me, it has almost exactly 60k miles on a 100k mile belt kit from a known quality club supporting vendor.
Any theory’s on how the ip could jump time? I’ve done some searching and previously the thought seems to have been that the tensioner was at fault either installed wrong or a prothe part.
I checked the 3 bolts holding the ip pulley and they are tight and show no signs of movement being roughly centered in the oval holes.
I have not loosened the tensioner yet or spun the pulleys or water pump, they look ok but as we all know looks can be deceiving.
My daughter was adamant that she didn’t do anything stupid or unusual when this all occurred. How could an ip jump time? Do I have other problems that led to this happening or that will result because of it?
One further bit of information, I ran vcds and it has a 16687 code, that’s the only code other than a door and a couple of heated mirror codes. ( 16687 cylinder 3 misfire detected.)
My daughter called today, her car had quit on the side of the road. Fortunately it was a secondary road so very little traffic. She was coming around a curve and heard a metal noise and the car shut off. It would start but has a “knock” that is far from normal.
I had it towed home and into my garage. I have inspected the belt, no missing teeth, I had that happen once. I set the engine at TDC. The crank is locked, I have a metalnerd long reach cam lock so I have not removed the valve cover at this point.
The long reach cam lock won’t quite fit into the cam slot, I’m talking maybe the thickness of a piece of paper or two. I can get it to fit if I jiggle it and loosen the two cam lock bolts a bit. So I think the cam and crank are close, real close just not exact.
The tensioner is tight the tang still in the hole, if anything the stub is a bit past the slot but that may be because the engine has not fully cooled yet.
After getting the crank and cam at TDC I went to put the tool in the ip hole and it’s nowhere to be found. I can find what I assume is the infamous “sucker hole” at approximately the 6 o’clock position. So I think the ip is several teeth off.
Will the ip being out of time cause a knocking noise? I was sure when I first backed it into the garage that the belt would be missing several teeth and severely out of time. The current belt was done in March of 2017, by me, it has almost exactly 60k miles on a 100k mile belt kit from a known quality club supporting vendor.
Any theory’s on how the ip could jump time? I’ve done some searching and previously the thought seems to have been that the tensioner was at fault either installed wrong or a prothe part.
I checked the 3 bolts holding the ip pulley and they are tight and show no signs of movement being roughly centered in the oval holes.
I have not loosened the tensioner yet or spun the pulleys or water pump, they look ok but as we all know looks can be deceiving.
My daughter was adamant that she didn’t do anything stupid or unusual when this all occurred. How could an ip jump time? Do I have other problems that led to this happening or that will result because of it?
One further bit of information, I ran vcds and it has a 16687 code, that’s the only code other than a door and a couple of heated mirror codes. ( 16687 cylinder 3 misfire detected.)
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