... My advice is mostly the same as "puter's"...
Also track down any current leaks using an ammeter.
First test across the neg terminal on the battery, if you see a higher than expected draw there then test across each fuse to identify where it is coming from.
btw, CE here as well, nice to know I'm not the only one on here
And IF you don't have a "Ammeter" you could use a cheap test light one that does not burn too brightly when connected straight across a fresh battery.
Hooked between a disconnected negative cable and the battery post...
this is a good way to see IF you have a significant drain.
IF you have a drain, the bulb lights up and then you can watch it as you remove fuses to help pin point what circuit is the source of the drain.
You must temper this some with experience for on these highly electronic cars, there are always circuits that draw some current...
but these will cause the bulb to only dimly light up!
But "puter" is right on... invest in an Ammeter and learn to quantify what is a normal drain for the entire car...
and quantify what is normal drain for those few circuits that normally cause such drain.
IF the total car darin is more amps than normal, then you do try to osolate the circuite by pulling fuses one at at time...
but
DO NOT PUT ANY FUSE BACK UNTIL YOU HAVE FINALLY reduced the drain to
ZERO...
and this will tell you the last circuit you pulled the fuse on is a (& maybe the only) source of the drain... for certain...
or in analyzing this circuit you might find that the drain you found is so small that it's entirely normal.
Be systematic and you'll find it... for there might be more than one source of your drain... and/or
you might have two circuits that interact with one another when a part has failed!
With your electronics background, you can eventually find the source...
and in the process be sure to keep good notes as to the drains you do find...
and how much is normal for each!
Best regards,
Sam Ross