This was my experience this weekend:
Yes, next time will be quite a bit faster. I have replaced several timing belts before (including an ALH TDI and the 1.6 liter IDI VW diesel), but the PD had me scratching my head a little. Especially figuring out the tensioner (triangular handled little) pin and how to insert it into the tensioner and wind up the tensioner (this is not used on the ALH engine). Initally I was also looking at the center of the tensioner and trying to align up something there to indicate the proper tension (this is where the tension indicator is on the ALH tensioner), and finally I saw the correct window and pointer off of the tensioner wheel and had a "DUH!" moment!
I used both the MoGolf writeup and the Bentley procedure. I totally misunderstood in Bently the item of lining up the camshaft sprocket with its timing mark on the back belt cover. I initally installed the belt on the cam, two cogs off, and could not get it to tension because it was out of adjustment on the cam. I thought I was one cog off. I then re-installed it and it was one cog off (I did not know it at the time) and everything locked down properly and was timed properly, but the cam sprocket adjustment was at the end of the bolt slots. I have no idea why the procedure says to rotate the cam CCW (to the left) fully in the adjustment slots. This is what caused my problems, causing me to be 2 teeth off.
I then figured out the perfect way to install it (after the tensioner has been properly pined and rotated clockwise): Lock the crank and cam, make sure the cam sprocket is indexed on its timing mark on the cover, install the belt on the crank, tensioner and waterpump. Next pull out the cam lock pin (the cam will not move) and completely remove the three cam pulley bolts and remove the pulley off of its hub (it will fall right off). Slip the pully into the belt and install it on the cam, belt in the grooves, with the pulley indexed against its marks on the back cover. Install the cam pulley bolts finger tight and reinstall the cam lock pin to make shure the cam did not move. You can not be off any belt teeth on the cam installing the belt this way and you will not have to wrestle the belt onto any of the pullys. Its so easy! The adjustment will be in the center of the cam bolt slots.
Next tension the tensioner properly and torque its nut and then tighten down the cam pulley bolts. Rotate the engine 2 times and recheck the timing. Adjust per the procedure if off.
I also discovered what Bently meant by you must only instert the crank lock by rotating the engine clockwise (it does work both ways, but it will be off if rotating CCW). If you pass TDC, do not try to insert the crank lock while backing up the crankshaft. The timing will be off. Back up the crank (turn CCW) a very small amount to BTDC and try again, nudging the crank CW while trying to engage the crank lock pin into the hole on the seal cover. If you engage the lock pin when rotating backwards, the play in the timing belt system will cause the timing to be off, since the normal engine rotation is CW.
After you do it, changing the PD timing belt is really easy! There is one less sprocket and idler to deal with than on the ALH engine. I learned from the ALH engine NOT TO REMOVE THE ENGINE MOUNT after its completely unbolted. Do not fight with it. I just worked around it this time, and after I pulled the water pump, I used the extra clearance from the WP hole in the block to thread the new belt around the motor mount.
I could not imagine changing the PD timing belt without the special tools. Spend the $85. Its great insurance.
--Nate