ignition switch replacement

sfierz

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2001
Location
Rockford, Illinois
TDI
1996 Tornado Red Passat
For those of you who have replaced a faulty ignition switch on a Passat, is it possible just to replace the electrical portion of the switch, not the whole assembly. What I am talking about replacing is:

http://www.impexfap.com/partlist.cfm?get...y=4300#part6136

There seems to be some confusion on this. Some people have replaced the whole assembly (removing the steering wheel), others may have just replaced this part. I would like to be able just to pull this part and replace. This would not necesitate removing the steering wheel, just pulling the lock. Can this be done effectively?
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
sfierz, you'll need to pull it all apart anyways, the screw that holds the electrical portion in is underneath it all.

You'll need a couple special puller tools to get the collar off of the upper steering column.

If you like, you could make a trip down my way (Union, Missouri) some weekend and I can help you out. That is a pretty long trip, as I remember Dekalb is near Chicago.
 

BKmetz

Administrator, Member #10
Staff member
Joined
Sep 25, 1997
Location
Illinois
TDI
2015 Passat, titanium beige, 6MT
I just went through ignition switch hell on my Passat a few weeks ago.

You have to remove the whole steering column lock assembly from the steering column to get the ignition switch off the back. The hard way is to pull the collar off. The easy way is to buy a new collar and cut the old one off with a Dremel tool. Then just install the new collar during assembly.

I was having ignition switch problems almost two years ago. At that time I ordered a new ignition switch and tried to get the collar off the steering column. No luck. Every type of puller I tried couldn't grip the collar enough to budge it. I did the Gofaster WD-40 fix until I could find a better puller. That worked for almost two years. In the meantime I bought a new key lock too. My key was getting really sloppy in the lock. So the plan was to wait for the ignition switch to act up again and replace everything while I had it all apart.

Well, the ignition switch did start acting up again. The WD-40 fix no longer worked. But this time I was better prepared. I had the new collar as a back-up if I couldn't pull the old one off. A new collar is less than $10 from the dealer.

I spent over an hour messing around trying to get a puller to fit, and then using large C-clamps to hold the fingers of the puller tight. No matter, it always slipped. I then used the Dremel tool to cut slots on two sides of the collar so the puller would have more area to grab on to. All I did was strip the edge of the collar off where I cut the slots. I was beginning to think the damn collar was friction welded to the steering column from the factory.

New plan: death to the old collar. I cut a slit down the length of the collar about 1 inch long, almost cutting into the steering column. The slit took about 45 seconds to cut with the Dremel tool. Then I took an old screwdriver and pounded it into the slit. When the screwdriver was wedged in the slit tightly I wigged it back and fourth until it worked loose. I repeated this step a few times until the collar stretched, became loose, and almost fell off the steering column. I was worried the spring would pop off the collar and hit me or part of the car. This did not happen.

Time spent trying to pull the collar off with several types of pullers: at least two hours, with no success. Time spent cutting and spreading the collar: in about five minutes that collar was off the steering column.

After the collar and spring is off it takes about 1 minute to get the metal steering lock assembly off the column. Remove one Allen-head bolt and unplug the ignition switch. Then simply slide the whole assembly off the steering column.

It takes about 2 minutes to swap out the ignition switches. To help the new ignition switch line up and seat correctly in the lock housing and with the cam on the back of the key-lock, put the key in and turn it. The switch and key-lock do not automatically line up.

Putting it all back together is the opposite of how you took it apart. To get the switch/lock assembly to slide down the steering column easier, insert the key and turn it while sliding back down. This is to get the steel locking pin to retract. Otherwise the pin is in the way.

Special extra instructions if you plan to install a new key-lock. When you buy a new key-lock you will get new keys. This means you will have one set of keys to lock/unlock your car and another set to start it. I found this unacceptable. I found a locksmith who could take the lock apart and change the tumblers to match my original keys. This took a week and cost me about $35.

To remove the lock from the aluminum steering column lock/switch assembly, you have to drill a hole in it. After you drill the hole you insert some small tool to push in a spring that is holding the lock in. This spring is built into the key-lock. The drill bit you just used will work fine, I used a thin awl. The Bentley manual has an illustration as to where the hole is to be drilled. The illustration is vague, you might get the hole right the first time, you might not. After you get the old lock out, the new one slides right back in. Then you procede to install the new igition switch.

Sorry I didn't have a digital camera with me. A picture is really worth a thousand words with this job.

Brian, 97 Passat TDI
 

Metalnerd

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Nov 14, 2000
Location
Greensburg, PA, USA
TDI
96 Passat TDI Storm Grey
No, we don't have a tool for that yet but I used a large, curved jaw, pair of vice grips to grab (lightly) behind the collar. Then I used a large 2 arm puller to grab the perimeter of the vice grip jaws.

There is not enough lip to use the pullers in the normal fashion but with the vice grips provide enough edges to grab the collar.
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
A bearing splitter works PERFECT for holding the collar, then I use a simple puller on the splitter. I've done dozens of VW ignition switches this way, works great.
 

sassyrel

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2003
Location
aplington,iowa
TDI
passat,96,black-metalic
hey oilhammer--ive got a splitter for my press that is 8 x 8 in closed --spose this is big enough????? /images/graemlins/grin.gif /images/graemlins/grin.gif /images/graemlins/grin.gif
 

oilhammer

Certified Volkswagen Nut & Vendor
Joined
Dec 11, 2001
Location
outside St Louis, MO
TDI
There are just too many to list....
[ QUOTE ]
hey oilhammer--ive got a splitter for my press that is 8 x 8 in closed --spose this is big enough????? /images/graemlins/grin.gif /images/graemlins/grin.gif /images/graemlins/grin.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /images/graemlins/eek.gif
 

N2TOH

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2003
Location
Chester County, PA
TDI
none currently
The switch and lock were replaced already when I bought my Passat.

Does anyone know a locksmith that can rekey the lock cylinder to my original key? I worked as a locksmith, and every other company I have contacted in New Jersey can not get the parts.
/images/graemlins/mad.gif


[ QUOTE ]
For those of you who have replaced a faulty ignition switch on a Passat, is it possible just to replace the electrical portion of the switch, not the whole assembly. What I am talking about replacing is:

http://www.impexfap.com/partlist.cfm?get...y=4300#part6136

There seems to be some confusion on this. Some people have replaced the whole assembly (removing the steering wheel), others may have just replaced this part. I would like to be able just to pull this part and replace. This would not necesitate removing the steering wheel, just pulling the lock. Can this be done effectively?

[/ QUOTE ]
 

BKmetz

Administrator, Member #10
Staff member
Joined
Sep 25, 1997
Location
Illinois
TDI
2015 Passat, titanium beige, 6MT
The tumblers in the lock can be changed to work with your original keys. I found a local locksmith who did it. However, you have to remove the lock from the steering column lock assembly. The tumblers cannot be changed with the lock in the car. That means pulling everything off the steering column again. You have to drill one small hole in the steering column lock assembly to get the lock to come out.

If you are willing to go through the trouble of removing the steering column lock assembly and remove the lock from it, I'll email you the name, address, and phone number of the locksmith who changed my tumblers to work with my original keys.

Brian, 97 Passat TDI
 

N2TOH

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2003
Location
Chester County, PA
TDI
none currently
[ QUOTE ]

The tumblers in the lock can be changed to work with your original keys. I found a local locksmith who did it. However, you have to remove the lock from the steering column lock assembly. The tumblers cannot be changed with the lock in the car. That means pulling everything off the steering column again. You have to drill one small hole in the steering column lock assembly to get the lock to come out.

If you are willing to go through the trouble of removing the steering column lock assembly and remove the lock from it, I'll email you the name, address, and phone number of the locksmith who changed my tumblers to work with my original keys.

Brian, 97 Passat TDI

[/ QUOTE ]

The hole has already been drilled, It takes me about 2 min to remove the cylinder. All I need to do it is a ballpoint pen and a screwdriver.
/images/graemlins/tongue.gif
 

BKmetz

Administrator, Member #10
Staff member
Joined
Sep 25, 1997
Location
Illinois
TDI
2015 Passat, titanium beige, 6MT
Oh, OK. With the little hole already drilled then it would only take about 2 minutes to get the lock out.

The black metal bezel ring around the key hole is pressed into lock/tumbler assembly. It is ruined when it comes off, and it has to come off to change the tumblers. The locksmith has to order a new bezel ring. This made my wait about 5 days. Once the locksmith has the new bezel ring, he only needs a few hours to change out the tumblers.

So if you can spare your car being down for a week, I know a guy that can change your tumblers.

Brian, 97 Passat TDI
 

chudzikb

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 28, 1999
Location
Lancaster, PA, USA
TDI
05.5 Jetta 03 Golf 2 door
I read this and when my Indy said at inspection on Thursday that it needed a switch, I said absolutely intall it and bill me! Way less pain. Now if I could only bread down and take him the door....

BEC
 

sfierz

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2001
Location
Rockford, Illinois
TDI
1996 Tornado Red Passat
That may be what I end up doing as well. I don't really want to have to go to the trouble of ordering the part, having all those special tools, and freezing out in the garage for and hour just to remove/install it. I do have an OK setup of basic tools, but I don't have a Dremel tool and I don't want to have to drill anything out. On the good side, now that the weather is warmer, the switch is behaving normally again. It seems like it starts acting up when the temp is below 20F. I might be able to milk it for a few more months.--Steve
 

N2TOH

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2003
Location
Chester County, PA
TDI
none currently
[ QUOTE ]

Oh, OK. With the little hole already drilled then it would only take about 2 minutes to get the lock out.

The black metal bezel ring around the key hole is pressed into lock/tumbler assembly. It is ruined when it comes off, and it has to come off to change the tumblers. The locksmith has to order a new bezel ring. This made my wait about 5 days. Once the locksmith has the new bezel ring, he only needs a few hours to change out the tumblers.

So if you can spare your car being down for a week, I know a guy that can change your tumblers.

Brian, 97 Passat TDI

[/ QUOTE ]

Ah reminds me of my Fraturinty party parking duty days. /images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

With the cylinder out I'll just use a screwdriver.
 

Andrei Rinea

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2002
Location
Europe, Romania, Bucharest
TDI
VW Tiguan 4Motion 2.0 TDI 170HP (engine CBBB)
How do you install the new collar? What dremel tool exactly did you use? What I think you are reffering to is called in my country "flex", but that's kind of a nickname.
 

BioDiesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2001
Location
CT
TDI
'98 Jetta
Hi Andrei,

The collar was installed by slipping it onto the shaft, then tightening the steering wheel nut to push it down the shaft. I think.

A 'dremel' tool is a high speed cutting disk, made of some synthetic material. It custs metal easily. Without out it, I can't think of a common tool that would work as fast.
And there is a real risk of scratching the column. That would worry me.

Another poster said they just used a pair of large Vice-Grips ( locking pliers) behind the collar. It would perform like the split collar clamp I used. It gives you a bigger surface to pull on with the gear puller. The big problem with the collar is that it is so thin. Only a few millimeters where the gear puller can grab.

A machine shop might have a 25 millimeter split collar to lend you. Your English is so good, I didn't realize you were in Romania.
 

Andrei Rinea

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2002
Location
Europe, Romania, Bucharest
TDI
VW Tiguan 4Motion 2.0 TDI 170HP (engine CBBB)
Ok, so I got a dremel tool then. I had one but didn't know it was called that way. I think I will try with my mechanic to take it out though and not use the dremel (flex we call it) tool yet and leave that as the last option we have.
My big problem is that I don't know if replacing this part (ignition switch 6N0 ... ...) will fix my problem and I'm trying to do some troubleshooting first.
Thank you for appreciating my English but I wish I could trade some of my English for some mechanical skills. Although both are useful.
 

BKmetz

Administrator, Member #10
Staff member
Joined
Sep 25, 1997
Location
Illinois
TDI
2015 Passat, titanium beige, 6MT
Hi Andrei. I got your email & PMs but I'll post everything here as there are probably others who want to know how I cut the collar off the steering column.

Dremel is a brand name of a small high-speed drill. Dremel's web site There are many different manufacturers of similar drills that will work just as well. Here is a photo of a Dremel brand drill.



The cutting wheel I used has a fiberglass mesh in it so the wheel does not shatter. This cutting wheel is Dremel part 426.



After I removed everything off the steering column, I draped some damp cloths over the gauges and dash to prevent the grinding debris and sparks from getting all over the dash. The metal and cutting wheel debris sticks very well to the damp cloth. I cut a small hole through the cloth for the steering column to poke through.

If your are holding the Dremel drill tool in your right hand, the cutting wheel is turning clockwise. You want to hold the Dremel tool in your left had so the wheel is turning counter-clockwise. This is important. You want to hold the drill so the sparks and cutting debris spin away from you and into the damp cloth. Please wear some sort of eye protection as some cutting debris will still come back at you.

I cut a slit about half the length of the collar. Then I took a thin chisel and pounded it into the slit until the collar expanded and fell off. The collar cannot be reused. The collars are cheap, less than $20 USd. Some photos of my old collar after I abused it with the Dremel drill and a chisel.





I have actually broken screwdrivers using them as chisels doing this. So if you have to, grind the slit wider if needed to fit your spreading tool of choice. It helps the job go faster if you grind the slit on the collar as far as you can without touching the spring. Don't worry if you grind a small scar on the steering column, there is plenty of steel there. I put a small amount of anti-seize compound on the steering column splines before I installed the new collar so next time the collar will come off much easier.

To install the new collar make sure the ignition switch-lock assembly is as far down the steering column as you can get it. Then you start the 24mm nut by hand. This is tricky as you have to compress the spring a bit to get it started. Tighten the 24mm nut as far as you can. If done right the collar will be seated correctly. Remove the nut and assemble the switches and steering wheel. Then install the 24mm nut again. If the horns work correctly, then you have the collar on correctly. If the collar is NOT on all the way, the horn contact on the back of the steering wheel will not touch the contact ring on the switch assembly and the steering wheel might feel loose.

I hope this helps.

Brian, 97 Passat TDI
 
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Andrei Rinea

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2002
Location
Europe, Romania, Bucharest
TDI
VW Tiguan 4Motion 2.0 TDI 170HP (engine CBBB)
Well, that is great! I will install the new ignition switch in 1 or 2 days (still have some exams) but I will first ask at Porsche (main vw dealer here) for a collar - at least if they have some in their depot. Maybe, maaaaaybe the collar will be popped out using some vice-grips and/or split-collar around it and a multi-arm puller and/or some other tools that I might find at my mechanic. I had to collect as much info as I could on this before my mechanic and me start working on it.

Thank you again all of you who helped me (OilBurner, Metalnerd, BKmetz, BioDiesel, BeetleBat, OilHammer and many others) in gathering all the logistic info on this op.

I will post again on my thread ("Got suckered it wasn't relay 109") only after I change this ignition switch of mine AND TEST THE CAR.
 

poolfrog

Member
Joined
Mar 1, 2007
Location
California
TDI
98 Jetta TDI
I have a 98 Jetta. I have benefited from 2 years worth of lurking around this site and want to say thank you to the community for such great information. It has been a factor in me getting a TDI.
I just replaced my ignition switch by cutting the collar method. The dealer wanted $40. for the collar but sold it to me for $30. I am not a stud mechanic like many here and was a bit intimidated while replacing this switch. Pulling the connector out from behind the airbag took more force than I expected. My connector was yellow not red as described in another post. When this is removed from the back of the airbag there won't be any wire left attached to the airbag.
I cut a slight vee shaped slot in the collar and used a chisel (for metal) to help spread it. I grabbed the collar with some very large channel locks and hit the channel lock jaws with a hammer, (I'm always embarrassed to use a hammer on a car), I still had a tough time getting it off. It's hard to see when I started to cut into the steering shaft, doh!
There is a sheer bolt to remove which clamps the ignition lock housing to the steering column. I used the Dremel tool to make a little slot so I unscrew it by banging it with a screwdriver. It's recommended to replace this sheer bolt with a new one, I didn't.
 

rsd

Veteran Member
Joined
May 4, 2005
Location
Montreal, Quebec
TDI
97 Passat Wagon TDI
VWannabe said:
Here is another method of replacing the ignition switch. It does not involve pulling the adapter collar off but instead removes the steering shaft.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=105906
I used this method last week on my B4, worked great, a little fiddling puting the shaft back in but no sweet really. Took me about 30 minutes once I got through all the cover and plastic dash bits. ( I had them out already for other reasons). I cleaned up the contacts on the all the steering wheel switches and use some dielectric grease and now my cruise in no longer intermittent. Thanks for the great how-to.
 
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