If you get in your car, turn the key and the engine cranks then stops and will no longer crank when you try again, chances are that the braided wire in between the starter solenoid is toasted, nicely toasted. Mine had a hole in it as if a small explosion went off inside the wire. Without that connection, the starter cannot complete the circuit to ground and you will have a no start.
Go to a hardware store and find a small piece of copper pipe, you have to cut it down one side so you can then hammer it flat. Afterwards cut it using your imagination to fit. Drill a hole in one end to go over the solenoid terminal, the other end you will have to drill through the post thats sticking out and the copper piece as well. You first have to clean up the post, remember there was a wire crimped on there? A dremel works well for that. Use a small screw to secure the two, of which you will grind the end of and then proceed to solder them together with a torch just for extra security and extra amp carrying capacity. I would imagine this can flow just as many amps, if not more. Beats that braided wire no?
NOTE: MAKE SURE TO CLEAN ALL THE ELECTRICAL CONTACT POINTS WITH SOME SANDPAPER, OTHERWISE YOU WILL HAVE POOR CURRENT FLOW AND WHAT WILL SEEM LIKE A WEAK BATTERY. I USED SOME REAR DEFOGGER REPAIR ON THE CONTACT POINTS TO MAKE SURE, ANYTHING HIGHLY CONDUCTIVE WILL WORK THOUGH.
Starts easier than it did before without a doubt
11 JAN 2010 Update: Well into the winter weather, the repair is working flawlessly coupled with a new battery and there are no issues with cranking for a maxium of four seconds (engine always starts).
