Jeep Wrangler JKU build

bwk9087

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2016
Location
MI
TDI
2007 Jeep JKU 1.9 ALH
I also knocked the big check ball out of the tank inlet. It may not have been one of my problems but anything that will restrict the diesel and cause it to foam is bad.
I think in the end the 1 1/2" fill and new vent were the solution.
I like your vent fitting, what is it?
The vent fitting is a standard tipover valve, with vent line, bought at most any speed shop, I got it at speedway motors. I will keep the big check ball for now, as I will be offroading on occasion, also, and might need some of these safeties.
 

samuraitd

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Jan 26, 2013
Location
Provo, UT
TDI
ahu mtdi samurai swap, 1991 jetta ecodiesel
I like your gauges. Care to share a little more info on how you built them?
 

bwk9087

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2016
Location
MI
TDI
2007 Jeep JKU 1.9 ALH
I like your gauges. Care to share a little more info on how you built them?
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=473229&highlight=arduino+guages&page=3
this is where I started my guage journey, right from this forum. Each guage is run by a single arduino nano. You don't have to do it this way, I like it for simplicity, if 1 component fails, the others keep working, like a standard guage. The displays I use are a 1.8" tft screen that interfaces to the arduinos. I have had this done for some time, so I don't remember everything I did off the top of my head, except for the egt uses a max6675 interface board, and a k type thermocouple that is 5" long, long enough to get into main exhaust path from egr port. The oil temp is using a standard GM coolant sensor 12146312,and the boost is using mpx5700gp sensor, the oil pressure I am using a generic pressure sensor off ebay, 0-500 psi, I think. I will be using the same gm sensor to control the output to the coolant glow plugs also.
 

samuraitd

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Joined
Jan 26, 2013
Location
Provo, UT
TDI
ahu mtdi samurai swap, 1991 jetta ecodiesel
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=473229&highlight=arduino+guages&page=3
this is where I started my guage journey, right from this forum. Each guage is run by a single arduino nano. You don't have to do it this way, I like it for simplicity, if 1 component fails, the others keep working, like a standard guage. The displays I use are a 1.8" tft screen that interfaces to the arduinos. I have had this done for some time, so I don't remember everything I did off the top of my head, except for the egt uses a max6675 interface board, and a k type thermocouple that is 5" long, long enough to get into main exhaust path from egr port. The oil temp is using a standard GM coolant sensor 12146312,and the boost is using mpx5700gp sensor, the oil pressure I am using a generic pressure sensor off ebay, 0-500 psi, I think. I will be using the same gm sensor to control the output to the coolant glow plugs also.
Awesome! I'll do some reading up on it!
 

RollingCoal11

Well-known member
Joined
May 31, 2012
Location
Las Vegas
TDI
2006 Jetta
I found the late model JKU airbox has a better outlet angle for the turbo inlet and they are cheap when guys change to CAI. The stock airbox should flow lots for the TDI.

Were you able to keep all of your factory gauges to work? I would be interested in how you did that? I been looking at a JKU or a FJ40 conversion. I prefer the JKU for moving the family around.

Also if you turned up the BEW to 200hp range, how well it move with 35's or 37's with proper gearing.

Chris
 

evguy1

Vendor
Joined
Feb 8, 2014
Location
Erington, BC, Canada
TDI
2000 Jeep Cherokee TDI, 2008 Jeep JKU TDI
I don't want to hijack this cool build thread.
Mine is here: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=475261&highlight=JKU
On all the swaps I do I leave the original ECU in place to run the dash and other systems like ABS. So many systems are all interconnected on modern vehicles. If you remove one part of the system then often the other parts stop working as well.
I installed the oil pressure and water temp senders from the Jeep into the TDI and it all works. The tach also requires a cam sensor input but most often you can just take the crank sensor output, run it through a Digital Dakota box and its close enough to fire up the tach. It does not use the cam sensor to run the tach so it does not have to be accurate. I think it just uses the cam signal to confirm the engine is running??
I don't have the tach working on my JKU swap yet as I have not had the Jeep back long enough from my kid to install the DD box. ;>)
 

bwk9087

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2016
Location
MI
TDI
2007 Jeep JKU 1.9 ALH
I don't want to hijack this cool build thread.
Mine is here: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=475261&highlight=JKU
On all the swaps I do I leave the original ECU in place to run the dash and other systems like ABS. So many systems are all interconnected on modern vehicles. If you remove one part of the system then often the other parts stop working as well.
I installed the oil pressure and water temp senders from the Jeep into the TDI and it all works. The tach also requires a cam sensor input but most often you can just take the crank sensor output, run it through a Digital Dakota box and its close enough to fire up the tach. It does not use the cam sensor to run the tach so it does not have to be accurate. I think it just uses the cam signal to confirm the engine is running??
I don't have the tach working on my JKU swap yet as I have not had the Jeep back long enough from my kid to install the DD box. ;>)
This is the way I am going also, so I should be able to report on this soon. I mounted the actual cam sensor, it was easy enough. We will see. I don't know if I consider it hijacking, when I am gaining knowledge from you, that helps me out!
 

evguy1

Vendor
Joined
Feb 8, 2014
Location
Erington, BC, Canada
TDI
2000 Jeep Cherokee TDI, 2008 Jeep JKU TDI
I'm interested if that does it. I'm just assuming that's the only thing stopping my tach from working at this point.
I did something similar on a Ranger swap when I needed a crank signal to shift the automatic. I did not have the original crank sprocket and made one out of a chain sprocket with the correct number of teeth and just milled the tops of the teeth flat and removed two teeth for the TDC signal.
Its bolted to the PS pump pulley.
Yes there is actually quite a bit of room between the crank pulley and the sensor. ;>)
 

bwk9087

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2016
Location
MI
TDI
2007 Jeep JKU 1.9 ALH
I'm interested if that does it. I'm just assuming that's the only thing stopping my tach from working at this point.
I did something similar on a Ranger swap when I needed a crank signal to shift the automatic. I did not have the original crank sprocket and made one out of a chain sprocket with the correct number of teeth and just milled the tops of the teeth flat and removed two teeth for the TDC signal.
Its bolted to the PS pump pulley.
Yes there is actually quite a bit of room between the crank pulley and the sensor. ;>)

Nice, that is what I have for a backup, a tone ring from a camaro, I think it is, that I removed two teeth, and welded up two teeth to replicate the jeep ring.
 

Hasenwerk

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Nov 28, 2003
Location
Quesnel, BC
TDI
1982 Cabriolet (BEW|VNT17|Stage4), 1989 VW TriStar Syncro soon-to-be CR TDI (CBEA), 2001 Ford Ranger Edge 4x4 (ALH|VNT17|R520|Stage4)
Question: Why run a hall sensor like this for the tachometer signal? On the BEW/BHW T94/28 is the tachometer signal output.
 

bwk9087

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Joined
Mar 23, 2016
Location
MI
TDI
2007 Jeep JKU 1.9 ALH
got some things done, going good so far.
got coolant lines run, added coolant glow plugs inline with a coolant sensor for Arduino control. Factory jeep coolant sensor is on other hose.
[url=http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=127140&title=2018-03-16-09-56-03&cat=500][/URL]
downpipe and exhaust is all done.
[url=http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=127143&title=2018-03-17-13-35-09&cat=500][/URL]
map sensor bung welded on intercooler pipe.
[url=http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=127156&title=2018-03-23-10-11-47&cat=500][/URL]
Intercooler mounted, it is a 20 x 7 x 2.5 universal.
[url=http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=127160&title=2018-03-24-09-55-58&cat=500][/URL]
 

bwk9087

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2016
Location
MI
TDI
2007 Jeep JKU 1.9 ALH
front end back on

intake and intercooler piping done. Had to go back to fishbowl, since jeep overflow was in way of intercooler piping. N75 is on, and all vacuum plumbed.
[url=http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=127164&title=2018-03-24-17-46-46&cat=500][/URL]
was able to keep factory air filter setup, tight fit under it for the one intercooler pipe, but was able to maintain the 2.5" piping.
[url=http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=127181&title=2018-03-25-12-34-15&cat=500][/URL]
that is is for now.
 

Motohead1

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Joined
Jul 16, 2016
Location
charlotte
TDI
2002 bug+telephone pole
Lookin good. Where exactly is that map sensor in the intercooler piping? Interested to see how you like the GTB1756VK.
 

bwk9087

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2016
Location
MI
TDI
2007 Jeep JKU 1.9 ALH
Lookin good. Where exactly is that map sensor in the intercooler piping? Interested to see how you like the GTB1756VK.
on the right (driver side) coming out of the intercooler. I don't have a pic of that yet.
 

bwk9087

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Joined
Mar 23, 2016
Location
MI
TDI
2007 Jeep JKU 1.9 ALH
Well I still have not figured out what that top fitting is for, hooked up the fishbowl to the one below it, the 5/16", and it bled the coolant system. I have got it started, and running. All guages work, getting a starter whine after start, like it is too close, trying to figure what to do there, buy gonna try a manual starter button first to make sure jeep ecu isn't holding it in, without a crank signal. Adjusted static pump timing to the upper portion of graph like DBW wants, according to paperwork. My fueling is software limited, so I ordered the security bit to adjust pump, waiting on that. Coolant is leaking a little while running, out of the water pump, didn't do that a year ago, when running the jetta, rusted up on seal? Waiting on timing belt kit from Idparts. Can't get a tach signal using the Dakota Digital box, so, working on the trigger wheel to mount to front of harmonic balancer, like a lot of the people swapping ls motors in the jk jeeps do. Alternator charges, but without the crank signal, I don't get smart charging, I guess, and thus the battery light in dash. Had coolant leak, in the block I made, so I removed it for now. Still cold here in Michigan, and snow on ground, but it should be soon, where we have good weather. It moves, pulled it out, and turned it around, to bring back into garage, so I can run with exhaust out the door. That is is for now.
 

Motohead1

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Jul 16, 2016
Location
charlotte
TDI
2002 bug+telephone pole
Try a 16th inch washer under the starter flange bolt holes to push it away from the flywheel and see if the noise goes away. I had a similar issue and there was a design change to the flange to fix it. Turns out the starter drive dimensions changed ever so slightly in a batch. Contact Randy and he can get you the revised starter flange if that is the case.
 
Last edited:

bwk9087

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Joined
Mar 23, 2016
Location
MI
TDI
2007 Jeep JKU 1.9 ALH
Try a 16th inch washer under the starter flange bolt holes to push it away from the flywheel and see if the noise goes away. I had a similar issue and there was a design change to the flange to fix it. Turns out the starter drive dimensions changed ever so slightly in a batch. Contact Randy and he can get you the revised starter flange if that is the case.

I would like it more if it were this easy. I used the HPA adapter, and a starter from 2005 passat, which is face mounted, so, not a good way I can see to move it away, without a little machining, or grinding. I still am thinking, or hoping, it is being held in, by Jeep ecu, because I don't have my two sensors working, ckp, and cmp, as I have balancer off, and have not tried the remote switch to verify this.
 

Motohead1

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Joined
Jul 16, 2016
Location
charlotte
TDI
2002 bug+telephone pole
Ahhh my fault. Thought you where using the tdconversion adapter. Lots of builds going on. yea sounds like a bump switch will be the best bet to find out whats going on.
 

bwk9087

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Joined
Mar 23, 2016
Location
MI
TDI
2007 Jeep JKU 1.9 ALH
Alright, got my bit to adjust fueling, did that, set to 4.8-5, in range dbw recommended. Got tach working, by adding tone ring to harmonic balancer, and using jeep crank sensor.
[url=http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=127546&title=2018-04-14-11-48-54&cat=500][/URL]
Everything seemed to be ok ,so I took it out for a drive. Had severe boost leaks, and limp mode. I was only able to get up to 12 psi . Everything seems to work. Went and grabbed some pvc fitting to put inline and test my boost piping, with regulated air.
[url=http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=127533&title=2018-04-13-13-39-51&cat=500][/URL]
I couldn't get over 5 psi without leaking. It was more my noobness with doing this, as I now realize you have to crank the clamps down really hard, and I had a leak at my map bung weld. I eventually was able to test all the way up to 40 psi, even though my tune should only go to 28. Starting it back up, my brand new n75 valve failed, so I put in the original from Jetta, and it seems much better. My coolant leak from water pump is bad now, so I will be moving to timing belt change now, before any more drives, once my back feels better, since I just tweaked it wrestling my 4r70w trans to put in my mustang, because 1 project is not challenging enough. I do have a start and run video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFl9lLR1wdg
 

evguy1

Vendor
Joined
Feb 8, 2014
Location
Erington, BC, Canada
TDI
2000 Jeep Cherokee TDI, 2008 Jeep JKU TDI
OK, now I'm curious.
What is the tone ring from? Is the crank sensor the one that was normally reading the flywheel?
Did you do anything with the cam sensor?
I have the stock flywheel and sensor but tach does not work. :confused:
 

bwk9087

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Joined
Mar 23, 2016
Location
MI
TDI
2007 Jeep JKU 1.9 ALH
OK, now I'm curious.
What is the tone ring from? Is the crank sensor the one that was normally reading the flywheel?
Did you do anything with the cam sensor?
I have the stock flywheel and sensor but tach does not work. :confused:
Ok, I already had the factory jeep cam sensor mounted reading the factory 3.8 cam ring off the motor, modified to fit on the power steering pulley. The tone ring for crank I used is this one.
[url=http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=127581&title=tone-ring&cat=500][/URL]
It does not work the way it comes, I had to make it match the original, like this, off another forum, showing correct rotation, and teeth. So I cut out teeth, and welded up two to make it look like the ones in picture below.
[url=http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=127580&title=jk-tone-ring&cat=500][/URL]
I tried it, with just the original jeep crank sensor, with cam sensor backed off, no go. Once I moved the cam sensor into position, tach came alive.
 

evguy1

Vendor
Joined
Feb 8, 2014
Location
Erington, BC, Canada
TDI
2000 Jeep Cherokee TDI, 2008 Jeep JKU TDI
I sort of thought it was a cam sensor issue as I have run into that on other swaps. I have tried a Digital Dakota box to try and fake it but maybe I need a cam sensor like you did. Really glad you tried with the cam sensor backed off, proves the theory. :)
So your original crank sensor was not on the flywheel like my 08?
 

bwk9087

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Joined
Mar 23, 2016
Location
MI
TDI
2007 Jeep JKU 1.9 ALH
I sort of thought it was a cam sensor issue as I have run into that on other swaps. I have tried a Digital Dakota box to try and fake it but maybe I need a cam sensor like you did. Really glad you tried with the cam sensor backed off, proves the theory. :)
So your original crank sensor was not on the flywheel like my 08?
Yes, it was, but the hpa design removes the tone ring, and the starter is placed in the position where the crank sensor was, so no option there. I would have bought your design, sounds easier to me!
 

Hasenwerk

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Nov 28, 2003
Location
Quesnel, BC
TDI
1982 Cabriolet (BEW|VNT17|Stage4), 1989 VW TriStar Syncro soon-to-be CR TDI (CBEA), 2001 Ford Ranger Edge 4x4 (ALH|VNT17|R520|Stage4)
I'm confused, why not use the ECU's tachometer signal?
 

Motohead1

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Jul 16, 2016
Location
charlotte
TDI
2002 bug+telephone pole
From what I have learned, the computer has to see that specific crank pattern on the crank sensor to activate the tach.
So looks like they used the 32-1 wheel for the crank? what did the cam wheel look like? is it asymmetrical?

I ask as my dodge was looking for a 16-1 crank signal and a asymmetric cam signal. (you can make the tach fire up by just touching the cam signal randomly to ground a few times to wake up the tach) I ended up using a dakota digital tach box that had just enough resolution to spit out the crank signal and also had a port to half that signal that I used for the cam all fed from the VW ecu output.

If the cam signal is similar on your setup a dakota digital box would work but you would need the speedo box as it would have enough resolution for the 32-1

But again the tone ring setup will work just fine also and be accurate. My setup is about 80rpm low.
 

bwk9087

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Joined
Mar 23, 2016
Location
MI
TDI
2007 Jeep JKU 1.9 ALH
So looks like they used the 32-1 wheel for the crank? what did the cam wheel look like? is it asymmetrical?
I ask as my dodge was looking for a 16-1 crank signal and a asymmetric cam signal. (you can make the tach fire up by just touching the cam signal randomly to ground a few times to wake up the tach) I ended up using a dakota digital tach box that had just enough resolution to spit out the crank signal and also had a port to half that signal that I used for the cam all fed from the VW ecu output.
If the cam signal is similar on your setup a dakota digital box would work but you would need the speedo box as it would have enough resolution for the 32-1
But again the tone ring setup will work just fine also and be accurate. My setup is about 80rpm low.
The cam ring is a 3 1 2 3 2 1 pattern. I tried while running to back off on the cam sensor, and tach stops, so I guess I need it. I tried the dsl-1e box, but could not get it to work for crank either. Oh well, this works, and is done.
 

Motohead1

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Joined
Jul 16, 2016
Location
charlotte
TDI
2002 bug+telephone pole
The cam ring is a 3 1 2 3 2 1 pattern. I tried while running to back off on the cam sensor, and tach stops, so I guess I need it. I tried the dsl-1e box, but could not get it to work for crank either. Oh well, this works, and is done.

Yea the 1e box only has enough resolution to do a 16-1 signal at a 4cyl output. anything with more teeth the speedo box they have is needed. I spent a good amount of time with them on the phone to figure it out.

Awesome you got it worked out. Thats the great thing about solving these problems as there is usually more than 1 way to get it working.
 
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