How to replace your MkIV's front wheel bearings

PDJetta

Top Post Dawg
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I wonder if I can use the Harbor Freight bearing removal kit AND a hydraulic press. I have a HF 12-ton hydraulic press, but no implements to use with the press to remove the bearings from the hubs. That would sure make it easy if I could.

I too have a Firestone lifetime alignment on the Jetta, so this would be a no brainer if it works.

--Nate
 

scurvy

Good Ol' Boy
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Chicago IL USA
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2006 Golf
I wonder if I can use the Harbor Freight bearing removal kit AND a hydraulic press. I have a HF 12-ton hydraulic press, but no implements to use with the press to remove the bearings from the hubs. That would sure make it easy if I could.
Sure, the discs what come with the HF kit are appropriately sized to push the bearing out of the hub. You could use one of the discs to push the new bearing back into the hub but the old bearing is already the correct size. I wouldn't buy the kit just to get the right size discs, you could probably find some big sockets the correct size that would be much cheaper than buying the whole kit.

The bigger issue is how to stabilize the steering knuckle while pushing the bearing out... IIRC there's no large flat, coplanar surfaces of the knuckle to set it on platens that would make it easy. Check bgg's post above for a picture on how he did it.
 

turbocharged798

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99.5 black ALH Jetta;09 Gasser Jetta
I think the 99.5 has a bad passenger side front wheel bearing because it howls when you hit the brakes and the 04 needs a drivers side bearing as well.

After reading here, I think I am just going to get the harbor freight press and be done with it. I have a 20% off coupon so it should be around $100 or so for the 10 ton.

Edit: scurvy's post now has me double thinking my plan...
 

PDJetta

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Sure, the discs what come with the HF kit are appropriately sized to push the bearing out of the hub. You could use one of the discs to push the new bearing back into the hub but the old bearing is already the correct size. I wouldn't buy the kit just to get the right size discs, you could probably find some big sockets the correct size that would be much cheaper than buying the whole kit.

The bigger issue is how to stabilize the steering knuckle while pushing the bearing out... IIRC there's no large flat, coplanar surfaces of the knuckle to set it on platens that would make it easy. Check bgg's post above for a picture on how he did it.
Thanks! That's the ticket.

--Nate
 

PDJetta

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I think the 99.5 has a bad passenger side front wheel bearing because it howls when you hit the brakes and the 04 needs a drivers side bearing as well.

After reading here, I think I am just going to get the harbor freight press and be done with it. I have a 20% off coupon so it should be around $100 or so for the 10 ton.

Edit: scurvy's post now has me double thinking my plan...
And using it to press out and in control arm bushings is as slick as snot on a doorknob!

--Nate
 

Thirstyturtle328

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2002 Golf GLS TDI
Hey guys, I've read this entire thread 4 or 5 times in preparation for replacing my right front bearing. I bought all the tools and parts I would need and got started earlier today.

Got the axle nut, wheel, caliper, and rotor off pretty easily. Now I'm at the point of pushing the axle out through the hub. Used some 3-jaw pullers from Harbor Freight...broke the 8", then the 6", then the 4". Rode my bike (I only have one car) a few miles to Autozone and they had rented out their 3-jaw pullers so I bought a beefy set of 2-jaw (they didn't have any 3-jaw to buy). These things are legit, WAY better built than the HF ones. Anyways, I have the puller around the hub and driving on the axle, I have a 25" breaker bar on the puller and I've gotten to the point where I'm using nearly all my strength to turn the thing and nothing has budged. I sprayed some penetrating oil on the splines a couple hours ago and I'm still not getting this thing out. I could go further but I'm afraid I'll break something other than just the puller. Plus at this point if the puller breaks it's going to be pretty catastrophic I feel like (shrapnel anyone?)

I feel like this part of the process isn't supposed to be very hard, any tips? I removed the 3 bolts on the bottom of the control arm and I've removed the dust shield. I don't have a lot of play though in the whole assembly and I'm worried I'm just jamming the axle into the differential. Can anyone help me out here? I'm sort of at an impasse currently, the quicker the response the better, I want this done so I can go to the beach tomorrow!!!
 

ymz

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Between Toronto & Montreal
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My rotor came right off after I took the caliper off...no nut or bolt removal necessary...strange?
Normally there's a little Philips-head screw holding the rotor to the hub, but it's often left off either because a replacement rotor comes with the wrong-length screw or because the old one broke off in the hub... It's not really needed except for keeping the lug bolt holes aligned when replacing the wheel...

Yuri
 

Thirstyturtle328

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Oct 15, 2011
Location
Eastern NC
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2002 Golf GLS TDI
Hey guys, I've read this entire thread 4 or 5 times in preparation for replacing my right front bearing. I bought all the tools and parts I would need and got started earlier today.

Got the axle nut, wheel, caliper, and rotor off pretty easily. Now I'm at the point of pushing the axle out through the hub. Used some 3-jaw pullers from Harbor Freight...broke the 8", then the 6", then the 4". Rode my bike (I only have one car) a few miles to Autozone and they had rented out their 3-jaw pullers so I bought a beefy set of 2-jaw (they didn't have any 3-jaw to buy). These things are legit, WAY better built than the HF ones. Anyways, I have the puller around the hub and driving on the axle, I have a 25" breaker bar on the puller and I've gotten to the point where I'm using nearly all my strength to turn the thing and nothing has budged. I sprayed some penetrating oil on the splines a couple hours ago and I'm still not getting this thing out. I could go further but I'm afraid I'll break something other than just the puller. Plus at this point if the puller breaks it's going to be pretty catastrophic I feel like (shrapnel anyone?)

I feel like this part of the process isn't supposed to be very hard, any tips? I removed the 3 bolts on the bottom of the control arm and I've removed the dust shield. I don't have a lot of play though in the whole assembly and I'm worried I'm just jamming the axle into the differential. Can anyone help me out here? I'm sort of at an impasse currently, the quicker the response the better, I want this done so I can go to the beach tomorrow!!!
Well I just broke the super beefy/strong jaw puller...I guess I'm going to put the axle nut partially on and slam on it with a BFH (Big Fu***** Hammer) until the dang spline comes out. I feel like it's the only option at this point, no puller is going to push the spline out I don't think...

Any advice is welcomed!
 

PDJetta

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No man, don't do that! You could ruin the differiential bearings and the CV joints by beating on the drive axle. I take it you are sure you were with the puller, pushing in on the axle (outter CV joint end) with the center of the puller with its fingers pulling against the hub. Odd it did not come out. I would use PB Blaster and soak anything the outter CV joint is in contact with in relation to the wheel bearing and hub. Let it soak over night. And then I would try again.

Also, to give you more room to pull the hub and drive axle apart, turn the steering wheel so the tie rod moves out, i.e., turn the steering wheel left (counterclockwise) if you are working on the right wheel.

I just removed the outter CV joints from the hubs last week to replace my ball joints and control arm bushings. At the advice of someone on this list, I bought this:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=OTC+7208A+Front+Hub+Installer

Its a little tight getting the lug bolts started, but it sure did the trick in pushing the drive axle out of the hub!

And you can also use this puller with a slide hammer screwed into it to pull the hub out of the bearing.

--Nate
 
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Thirstyturtle328

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Eastern NC
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2002 Golf GLS TDI
No man, don't do that! You could ruin the differiential bearings and the CV joints by beating on the drive axle. I take it you are sure you were with the puller, pushing in on the axle (outter CV joint end) with the center of the puller with its fingers pulling against the hub. Odd it did not come out. I would use PB Blaster and soak anything the outter CV joint is in contact with in relation to the wheel bearing and hub. Let it soak over night. And then I would try again.

Also, to give you more room to pull the hub and drive axle apart, turn the steering wheel so the tie rod moves out, i.e., turn the steering wheel left (counterclockwise) if you are working on the right wheel.

I just removed the outter CV joints from the hubs last week to replace my ball joints and control arm bushings. At the advice of someone on this list, I bought this:


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRF6C/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

Its a little tight getting the lug bolts started, but it sure did the trick!

--Nate
Thanks for the help! From your suggestion and some other reading online I'm a little nervous to beat on it with a hammer (although it seems to work for a lot of people). I'm thinking about getting the 5-ton hydraulic puller from HF. A lot of people seem to have had success with it. I've seen something similar to what you have there at HF but I'm pretty sure it can't pull any harder than the puller I already broke...

Thoughts on the hydraulic puller?
 

ymz

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Between Toronto & Montreal
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That's the one I bought a few years ago... handy for pulling out rear hubs also... (we all know the "official" VW tool is a bit more refined, but...$$$)

Yuri
 

PDJetta

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When I removed the drive axles from the hubs (as mentioned in my previous post) I noticed the bearing was leaking grease on the passenger side. The outter CV joint (drive axle) splines were covered with thin, oily grease. Looks like it had been leaking for a while. Does this mean its grease seal failed and that this bearing is on its way out? Almost 150,000 trouble-free miles on both front bearings so far.

The driver's side was totally grease/leak free.

--Nate
 
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Thirstyturtle328

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Eastern NC
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2002 Golf GLS TDI
That's the one I bought a few years ago... handy for pulling out rear hubs also... (we all know the "official" VW tool is a bit more refined, but...$$$)

Yuri
Well either I have a defective unit or 5 tons isn't enough! It extends the piston maybe a half inch and gets very difficult to pump and then makes a little air sound and it pumps sort of freely. What do you guys think? Defective? Or have I just reached the limit of the puller?

Ugh surely I don't need 12 tons for this...
 

ymz

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Sorry... I was replying to PDjetta, but you posted ahead of me, so it appears as if I was replying to you...:(

Good luck,

Yuri
 

Thirstyturtle328

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2002 Golf GLS TDI
Sorry... I was replying to PDjetta, but you posted ahead of me, so it appears as if I was replying to you...:(

Good luck,

Yuri
No worries!!

I think I'm just giving up at this point. I'm going to return all my Harbor Freight tools tomorrow and just take it somewhere next week. Don't really care how much it costs, I have a 1,000+ miles trip next weekend and the weekend after that and then another one two weekends after that and no time to mess with it except for this weekend and I just want to go to the beach and hang with my wife and dog, not be stuck in the garage. I'm truly disappointed in myself though, it's just that damn axle is STUCK!! I can't even take the whole assembly off and take it somewhere because of the axle being stuck. I'm not trying to undo the axle from the differential or anything.

Anyways, goodnight fellas...
 

Thirstyturtle328

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2002 Golf GLS TDI
Stupid question - did you unbolt the balljoint plate on the bottom of the control arm to let the steering knuckle swing out?
Not a stupid question!! Although I wouldn't be surprised if I made a mistake like that, it's not the case. I did in fact unbolt the plate to allow some wiggle room for removing the axle.

I packed it in guys. Put everything back together (luckily I didn't damage anything), replaced my pads and rotors as planned (she's braking so smooth now!) and I'm going to return my HF tools and take it to a shop this week and let them deal with it I reckon.

I really appreciate all the help but at the end of the day I just don't have the right tools to unfuse the axle splines from the hub.

Good luck to everyone who tries this, I think mine was particularly rusty and that is/was the problem.
 

PDJetta

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When you get the car back, ask them how they got the drive axle out. That is an odd occurance.

--Nate
 

Thirstyturtle328

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2002 Golf GLS TDI
Well just ran to the farmer's market downtown and I noticed a lack of wheel bearing noise...strange.

I went to a parking lot and did some typical maneuvers that ALWAYS caused the noise and it's gone...yay?

I think I'll just wait for it to come back and then take it to a shop to have it fixed. I know it's the front passenger wheel though because you can shake the wheel a decent amount when grabbed on two sides and when the wheel was off the hub was somewhat loose. Anyways, I'll keep people updated I guess.

PS_I torqued the axle nut as hard as I could with a 25" breaker bar (I'm guessing about 260 ft-lbs) is that enough?
 

Thirstyturtle328

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2002 Golf GLS TDI
Called around today and got some quotes for doing my wheel bearing. Dropped it off at German Speed Merchants who quoted me $200 (labor only, I have the parts).

Well I gotta tell you, I spent $200 in tools at Harbor Freight. Most people on this thread stated $400 and $500 for the repair which really put me off but $200 isn't bad if you only have 1 to replace. I realize if you have to replace another one in the future then the savings add up but I'm honestly kind of happy it didn't work out for me.

BUT, well see if they get my axle out of my hub, that's the rub. May end you being more than $200 at the end of the day.
 

turbocharged798

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99.5 black ALH Jetta;09 Gasser Jetta
Well, I just successfully replaced the passenger side wheel bearing on the 99.5. Bought the Harbor Freight 12ton press and had a 20% off coupon so the whole thing only cost me ~$100.

Like its been mentioned above, its a little tricky because there is no flat spots on the knuckle to press on. I used a 4x4 and 2x4 wood blocks to support the knuckle and it worked like a champ! Man, was that bearing race TIGHT! I thought I was going to break the press, but it finally popped free. I can't imagine trying to do this on the car with a threaded puller.

It was pretty easy to pull the whole knuckle off too. Top strut nut, tie rod, three ball joint bolts, ABS sensor and the whole thing comes right off.

Now for the good/bad news, my noise is still there, but it seems much quieter now. I inspected the races and there was some very small pitting starting on the inner one. Nothing like the one pictured above though.

I think I am going to do the drivers side bearing and see if it totally eliminates the sound. I hate doing the same job again.
 

79TA7.6

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I did my drivers side this weekend with a home made tool that I had one of the guys in our fab shop make up for me. Total cost, 1/5 bottle of whiskey. Took me about 4 hours to do. Once I had the axle out I decided to give the hub a spin. It sounded like it had no grease in it what so ever. When it came out there was still lots of grease in it. I need to take the other race off and see what the bearings look like. The side that came with the hub looked good. Started to do the passenger side, mainly because I had no idea which one was bad, but decided to check to see what it sounded like with the axle out of the hub. It was nice a quiet. My ride in to work this morning was nice and quiet, no howling or growling.

Thanks Scurvy
 

Wksg

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Ann Arbor MI
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I've got three quote so far (one more coming) to replace both front wheel bearings on my '03 wagon:

- stealership: $688
- import auto place: $670 (including alignment which they said was necessary)
- fav muffler/brake shop: $290

Still waiting for my favorite mechanic, who usually only works on domestic cars, but said a wheel bearing is a wheel bearing.

But the muffler/brake place is obviously at the top of the list. They're not a chain, local owned place for 40 yrs, good reputation and I've had a lot of stuff done there with no problems. They were $70 for wheel bearing kit and $75 for labor per side. I think they underestimated labor, but you couldn't beat that, if the work was done well.

I do not have the impression that an alignment would be required. The import auto shop mentioned taking off the tie rods or some other suspension component and I don't remember that as a part of scurvy's write-up.
 

scurvy

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Chicago IL USA
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I did my drivers side this weekend with a home made tool that I had one of the guys in our fab shop make up for me. Total cost, 1/5 bottle of whiskey.
...
Thanks Scurvy
No problem. I'll be glad to take any donations of whiskey as well. ;)

(edit: but I'd like the entire bottle!)
 
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scurvy

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I do not have the impression that an alignment would be required. The import auto shop mentioned taking off the tie rods or some other suspension component and I don't remember that as a part of scurvy's write-up.
I haven't aligned my car since I did both front wheel bearings and my tires have worn very evenly for the past 97k km. The tires will be getting replaced before winter and I will get an alignment at that time.

The import shop may opt to remove whatever they want, especially if they're realigning it afterwards.
 

Thirstyturtle328

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2002 Golf GLS TDI
Had a local shop replace my front right bearing for $212 (labor only). I was certain it was the right aide because the sound came from that side, happened when turning left, and I jacked you each side and shook the wheel, left side tight, right side wobbled. However, the sound is still there and it's definitely coming from the right side.

What could it be other than the wheel bearing? I've never ever noticed the noise at high speeds. Only when turning sharply to the left and only when accelerating.
 

P2B

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To be certain which one is bad, put the front end of the car up on jackstands. Put parking brake on. With car idling, put it in 5th gear and let the clutch out. The side with the bad bearing should be making that gawdawful racket.
I'm not sure how reliable this test is. I think I can hear bearing noise on the passenger side only if I have my ear in the wheel well while the car is idling in 6th, but it's not very loud, certainly not as loud as it is in the cabin driving down the road at the same speed.

When the noise first started about 20K ago it was only audible in 6th on smooth pavement and would stop when turning left, which convinced me it must be a front wheel bearing. It has slowly gotten worse and is now audible in the lower gears and doesn't change when cornering. It sounds to me like it's passenger side, but I'm still not completely convinced.

Simon
 

PDJetta

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Turbocharged798 wrote, "Well, I just successfully replaced the passenger side wheel bearing on the 99.5. Bought the Harbor Freight 12ton press and had a 20% off coupon so the whole thing only cost me ~$100."

I have the same press. What did you use to interface between the press rod and bearing? I'd like to work this out ahead of time and have whatever press pieces I need on hand.

Do you push out the old bearing and the inner hub (the thing the ABS ring is on) at the same time? Also, How do you get the old inner race off the inner hub so you can use the hub over?

Thanks.

--Nate
 
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