stanadyne fm-100 5 micron install w/mann pre-filter - installed :)

burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
just the other day i completed my install of the stanadyne fm-100 fuel filter with 5-micron 6" filter and mann inline pre-filter (~150-micron), similar to how SUNRG installed his (as found in http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=125520, and http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=60614). i wasn't able to have my digital camera on me at the time, so i couldn't take step-by-step pics of the install, but will post pics of the completed setup in the next week.

the optional items i installed were the side-load heater and clear water separation bowl. i would eventually like to get the fuel restriction gauge.

i mounted the fm-100 head/filter just in front and to the right of the oil filter, just behind the big radiator fan. the mann pre-filter i anchored in the empty area previously used by the stock fuel filter. the send/return lines to the pre-filter i routed around the outside of the coolant expansion tank. to mount the fm-100 head in that location, you need to grind away a bit of the metal lip near the hood latch to accomodate a two washers. (sorry for no pics at this time). drill two holes slightly larger than 1/4" - i used a 1/4" bit and rubbed the edges a bit to get some leeway room - to extend the fm-100 out far enough from the radiator fan, i simply tightened up 5 hex nuts along the bolt, as that was the cheapest and easiest solution (and seems to be totally solid and free of vibration after a few test runs).

here's the price breakdown, as i installed this setup.

fm-100 and components, ordered from http://www.reliableindustries.com :
-3/8" port head: $30 + shipping
-side-load heater: $40 + shipping
-clear bowl water separator: $27 + shipping
-5-micron filter: $14 + shipping
(total shipping for me was about $16)

clear blue biodiesel resistant fuel line hose from http://www.procycle.us/main/fuel_hose.htm :
-5/16" ID hose: $27+shipping for 25ft (i bought leftovers from SUNRG, enough for 2 installs). 25ft should be enough for 3 installs, so price for one: ~$10
if you only have one car to do, you can probably sell your leftovers somewhere along the line. i love the clear hose...

mann inline pre-filters from http://dieselgiant.com (tdiclub member Russell Parr):
-10 pack: ~$25 + shipping (these should last you a long, long time)

from the local hardware store or junk drawer:
-two 1/4" bolts, about 3" long, 6 washers, and 12 nuts: ~$3

from auto parts store:
-6 fuel hose clips : ~$2

from wherever (http://www.eldonjames.com located in CO iirc, sent me some free samples - as they have a minimum order of 50 :eek: - black nylon rated for any reasonable temp, like -50F to 250F iirc, should be fine for biodiesel):
-two 3/8" -> 5/16" NPT hose barbs
-zero, one or two 3/8" plugs (i only needed one, since the side-load heater took up the other port - you don't need any if you install heater and
restriction gauge)


total intial cost, wo/options: ~$105
total intial cost, w/options: ~$172

this may seem high, however, this includes ~$30 for 10 pre-filters, which i'm guessing should practically last a lifetime, and $40 + $27 for the two optional pieces. side-load heater though i would recommend for colder climates, based on what i know, though you probably could easily get by without it. i'm up in northern MN enough to want to have the reassurance, even if i do use anti-gel additives.

pitfalls i encountered:

- i initially installed the side-load heater in the outgoing port, not the incoming port. after realizing this (before priming), i swapped positions with the 3/8" plug. however, the side-load heater thread is metal, which when taken out, left little bits of ground off paint/tiny metal shavings in the fm-100 port threads! :eek: i did my best to carefully swab them out with a paper towel lightly soaked with power service. i think i got 95% of the particles, but my main worry of course, was contaminating the clean line!

- the 3/8" clips i got didn't fight real tight along a few of the connections, especially the outgoing tube from the mann pre-filter (the others being the clean/return to the engine). when priming using the PD lift pump, i had a decent leak going on here which i didn't notice right away. probably a few tablespoons... :( i fixed this connection with a screw-tight clip.

- i accidentally forgot to secure the clear-bowl water separator 100% before priming with the lift pump leading to a bunch of diesel spilling out from the bottom and onto my skidplate. not quite sure how much. but at least a few tablespoons... guessing about 5 before i realized :( so that's why the filter took so long to prime :eek: the reason why i had loosened the clear bowl water separator was because i read in the instruction sheet that you should apply a dab of oil to the thread which screws it on. but then i couldn't find my instruction sheet, said screw it, and then forgot i had loosened it. duh.

- to mount the fm-100 in that location, in order to get it to sit 100% vertical, you need to bend the metal that you attach it too. i used a paper towel (to minimize scraping) and a pair of larger pliers to bend it downward a bit.

- with the PD in-tank lift-pump, priming was easy. i ended up cycling the igntion about 40 times :O - unfortunately because of the leaks i didn't catch in time, it took longer than expected. i didn't cycle 40 times in a row, of course - didn't want to overheat anything if that is possible, so i took my time. my guess is that if you do it right (hopefuly my pitfalls will help eliminate this), it shouldn't take more than 30 cycles, probably more like 20ish. i was paranoid about air in the tandem pump, but turns out from pics i've seen, the tandem pump can accomodate for air bubbles, so i think you're safe as long as you prime it enough to have only a few small bubbles in the clean line, and something is coming out of the return line. i was overly paranoid, hence the many cycles. but even though i couldn't get all bubbles eliminated it still started up right away (perhaps 1/4 second longer than usual).

updates, things i forgot to mention, and pics to come soon...

edit - made some little edits/addtions. sorry for no pics at the time. but if you look at SUNRG's MANN prefilter thread you get the general idea. also, thanks to SUNRG and HermTDI for help on doing this.
 
Last edited:

whitedog

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Location
Bend, Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta that I fill by myself
I have another water separator bowl like I have mentioned earlier. It's already in the box and ready for an address. Would anyone like this one? Only reply Via PM. First come, first serve.
 

burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
update! i finally got my pics onto my computer, or some of them at least (will have a few more later):

here's a pic of under my hood, showing the entire stanadyne fm-100 fuel filter setup and mann pre-filter:


close up of the filter head:



close up of the mann pre-filter:






after 1500 miles or so, i have just now started to see little flecks being caught in the pre-filter. 2 small dust-sized particles, probably dust/dirt particles introduced when fueling, like a piece of dirt that was on the diesel pump.

i haven't hooked up my side-load heater yet. i want to tap into power that is on when the car key is turned to on or the car is running.
 

JohnyRRR

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2006
Location
michigan
TDI
2003 tdi wagon
burpod, why the side load heater. are you going to run any wvo in it? how much heat is it supposed to add. did you know there is a fuel cooler under your car? i really like your set-up.:)
 

burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
johny, i am in northern MN and winter can get very cold. it's just a pre-cautionary measure and to help get the fuel warmed up faster when it's blistering cold out :) yes, i know i have a fuel cooler :) this side-load heater i believe is thermostatically controlled - but i am not sure what at what temp it shuts off at.

i also have a 1000W zero start frost heater that i will use in the winter when it's real cold out. (mostly installed to relieve some of the stress on the engine of cold starts) i have thought about splicing the fm100 heater into the frost heater power supply, so that if i think it's cold enough to warrant using the frost heate, the side-load heater will be activated as well...
 

burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
wow. lots of interest in this thread.... can some of the guys continually posting on the oil war threads add some input here? :rolleyes:

i kinda thought such a complete writeup may have brought out some more responses, ideas, etc... :eek:
 

JohnyRRR

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2006
Location
michigan
TDI
2003 tdi wagon
is ther a way to override the thermastat so you can switch the heater to be on all the time. like if you are using for WVO?:)
 

GCMarx

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2004
Location
Slumerville, Taxachusetts
TDI
Shoes, the bus, the T
If you mean the zerostart, then no -- you're not supposed to run that while you're driving, plus it runs off of a wall plug. :) If you mean the side-load, you'd probably have to pop open the control module and wire around the thermostat, which could be anything from child's play to impossible.
 

JohnyRRR

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 29, 2006
Location
michigan
TDI
2003 tdi wagon
GCMarx said:
If you mean the zerostart, then no -- you're not supposed to run that while you're driving, plus it runs off of a wall plug. :) If you mean the side-load, you'd probably have to pop open the control module and wire around the thermostat, which could be anything from child's play to impossible.
i meant over riding the heater in the head of the filter unit. i have a zerostart and...nevermind.:)
 

burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
this side-load heater would not be appropriate for heating WVO, it's rather localized
 

homebrewtdi

Active member
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Location
Marquette, MI
TDI
2003 Jetta Wagon TDI
Wiring

Hi,
I've been searching around trying to find ways that people wired up their heater with a switch in the cabin. Have any of you wired yours with a switch inside, or have you figured out a way to wire it to turn on when you turn the ignition on? Please advise....

Thanks,
Matt
 

Herm TDI

Vendor
Joined
Nov 21, 2001
Location
Richmond, Maine...The far side of Witsend
TDI
2002 Golf GLS Malone Stage 3, P+520 nozzles, 11MM Inj pump, Sachs VR6 clutch, Stelth Race Pipe, Immo Deleat, EGR Deleat
homebrewtdi said:
Hi,
...Have you figured out a way to wire it to turn on when you turn the ignition on? Please advise....
Thanks,
Matt
The way I wired my FM-100 heater was to use a vacumm switch tapped into the vacumm system and also used an in-line fuse. This way the FM-100 fuel heater was only powered when the engine was operating. Once the engine is shut off the vacumm switch would shut off the FM-100. This methid is simple and there is no need to hack into the car's electrical system or the fuse/relay panel. The electrical power (to the FM-100) comes directly from the battery via the vacumm switch and a simple in-line fuse.
 

whitedog

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 12, 2004
Location
Bend, Oregon
TDI
2004 Jetta that I fill by myself
Herm TDI said:
The way I wired my FM-100 heater was to use a vacumm switch tapped into the vacumm system and also used an in-line fuse. This way the FM-100 fuel heater was only powered when the engine was operating. Once the engine is shut off the vacumm switch would shut off the FM-100. This methid is simple and there is no need to hack into the car's electrical system or the fuse/relay panel. The electrical power (to the FM-100) comes directly from the battery via the vacumm switch and a simple in-line fuse.
Other possiblities would be to hook into the charge indicator circuit, but that's probably not a good idea.

Tap into the shut-off solenoid circuit with a relay, but that would be adding a draw to that circuit and may cause reliabilty issues with the solenoid shutting off.

Those are the only two that I can think of for sure, but I wonder if there are unused plugs among the car wiring that would be hot when the car is running. To me, that would be ideal.

But the vacuum switch is pretty easy as well.

Anyway... Herm, if you want a water separator bowl, let me know.
 

homebrewtdi

Active member
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Location
Marquette, MI
TDI
2003 Jetta Wagon TDI
Herm TDI said:
The way I wired my FM-100 heater was to use a vacumm switch tapped into the vacumm system and also used an in-line fuse. This way the FM-100 fuel heater was only powered when the engine was operating. Once the engine is shut off the vacumm switch would shut off the FM-100. This methid is simple and there is no need to hack into the car's electrical system or the fuse/relay panel. The electrical power (to the FM-100) comes directly from the battery via the vacumm switch and a simple in-line fuse.
Hi,
This is a good idea, but after further thought I think that the way to go for me is to have a switch that I can just flip on 10 minutes, or however long is necessary before I drive to liquify my Bio. If I cannot figure out a clean place to mount such a switch, then I think that the vacuum switch is going to be the way to go.

Thanks!
Matt
 

burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
fm100 installed on the golf now

i just installed the same setup in my golf at 21500 miles. it went a lot smoother second time around.

the mann pre-filter doesn't have any nubs on it, and the smallest spring clamp i've found doesn't clamp hard enough i think. it leaked on my jetta. the smallest screw clamps i found got all ovally when tightened to that small diameter and also caused leaks. so for the golf install i wrapped the end of the hoses going into the pre-filter with electrical tape to add diameter and used the screw clamps there - works perfect and no leaks.

i also got the teflon tape done better for the NPT bards and side-load heater going into the fm100 head. first time i did it, i wrapped the tape the wrong way so as i screwed them in the tape starting bunching up, and would be a little leaky.

as for wiring up the heater, i think now i will mount a little switch under the steering wheel column with a relay to the battery. previously i thought of wiring it with a relay to the battery to the city lights in the eruoswitch or the window defroster or the FUNK switch (as the golf, being an auto tranny, has no ESP button).

here's a few pics of the install in the golf; the larger images can be viewed in my photo section. been almost about a week now and no signs of any leakage.

edit: i used 1/4" bolts, and the reason for the one large washer and then the thick smaller washer is because the holes for the head mount are too large for 1/4" bolts, so you need the larger washers to get a firm fit and not bend the washers at the same time. and there isn't really enough metal in that mounting spot to use any bolts larger than 1/4" IMO.

filing and holes for the fm100 head mount:



the combination of bolts, washers, nuts i used (stainless steel except the 2 thick washers are zinc plated):



the whole setup:



close-up of the pre-filter:



and another pic of the head:

 
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weasel

Deactivated Member Account
Joined
Sep 12, 2000
TDI
None.
Are you not worried about the filter plugging in the winter ?? I only ask because there does not seem to be any provision for warmed fuel to be returned to the filter ( like the thermostatic tee did on the OEM filter ). On my setup, I managed to plumb in a tee into the suction side of the filter so some fuel would return to the filter, but most would go back to the tank.
 

burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
Nov 27, 2004
Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
if the fuel has already gelled, the T-valve isn't going to help. the fm100 has a side-load heater option to heat the fuel in the filter when it's cold out. as far as i know, the Mk5's did away with the T-valve altogether...
 

weasel

Deactivated Member Account
Joined
Sep 12, 2000
TDI
None.
I wasn't worried about gelling, I was worried about clogging due to fuel clouding. Maybe I am just worried for nothing, but at the temps either of us could experience, I thought it prudent to circulate some warmed fuel back through the filter.
 

weasel

Deactivated Member Account
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Sep 12, 2000
TDI
None.
I just realised that you are using a 5u filter, I am using a 2u. Might be an issue for me and not you. Electric heater might be nice though. Would remove all doubt if you ever thought there was a gelling issue. Just turn it on and wait. Might avoid a trip to a heated garage ! Hmmmm, wonder if I can get a heater in mine ...
 

burpod

teh stallionz!!1
Joined
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Location
cape cod, ma
TDI
82 rabbit vnt ahu, 98 jetta vnt ahu, 05 parts car, 88 scirocco.. :/
the 5u filter i think is the better, less restrictive option. the 5u filter filters out 92-93% of 2u particles according to stanadynes papers... what size filter are you using? i'm using the larger 6". SUNRG did some tests as well as HermTDI and they felt the 2u filter was too restrictive... i personally have no data...
 

SUNRG

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Location
Roanoke, VA
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None currently. Previously owned 04 Golf TDI & 05 Passat GLS Wagon TDI
burpod said:
the 5u filter i think is the better, less restrictive option. the 5u filter filters out 92-93% of 2u particles according to stanadynes papers... what size filter are you using? i'm using the larger 6". SUNRG did some tests as well as HermTDI and they felt the 2u filter was too restrictive... i personally have no data...
2u is more restrictive, but probably not too restrictive. the 6" 2u is probably less restrictive than the 4.3" 5u, but i concur, IMHO the 6" 5u is probably the best FM100 option for TDIs.

cheers!
 

weasel

Deactivated Member Account
Joined
Sep 12, 2000
TDI
None.
Mine is a 2u Perma-Cool filter setup. I can't remember the size, but has to be near 6". The outer case of the filter seems to be near identical in size to the oil filter I use on my Mustang ( FL-1A, PH-8A etc ... )
 

saepak77

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May 1, 2006
Location
Austin, Tx
TDI
'05.5 Jetta TDI, DSP, Graphite Blue
Thanks for the info. I'll probably be doing me a FM-100 and a Mann Pre-Filter with in the next month or so. I'm not going to need to go with the heater since i'm down here in Houston, Tx. About how much room does the FM100 need? I'll be doing this in a 05.5 Jetta, so will try to take pics and post what i come up with for those that are thinking about it for the new design.
 

SUNRG

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Location
Roanoke, VA
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saepak77 said:
Thanks for the info. I'll probably be doing me a FM-100 and a Mann Pre-Filter with in the next month or so. I'm not going to need to go with the heater since i'm down here in Houston, Tx. About how much room does the FM100 need? I'll be doing this in a 05.5 Jetta, so will try to take pics and post what i come up with for those that are thinking about it for the new design.
i do NOT recommend doing this on an A5. this is a replacement upgrade to an A4 filter which only filters to 58% @ 3-5 microns. the A5 features a new very upgraded filtration media that is over 95% efficient at 3-5 microns - and IMHO this excellent filter should not be replaced.

in your other thread you talked about adding a pre-filter / water-seperator before the OEM A5 filter and that seems reasonable in concept.

again, if it were my A5 i would NOT remove and replace the OEM fuel filter.
 

milehighassassin

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Mar 18, 2005
Location
Fort Collins, CO
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2005 Golf TDi PD, Reflex Silver
SUNRG

Is it possible to put a MK V filter on a MK IV? I already on an FM100 on my PD (MK IV) but would that be an easy upgrade for others?


I was thinking about trying to wire my heater up to my rear defrost switch.
 

SUNRG

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milehighassassin said:
SUNRG

Is it possible to put a MK V filter on a MK IV? I already on an FM100 on my PD (MK IV) but would that be an easy upgrade for others?


I was thinking about trying to wire my heater up to my rear defrost switch.
it's possible, but IMHO the FM100 is an easier upgrade, less expensive and probably even a little better filter. but since the A5 OEM and the FM100 are so close in filtration efficiency, IMHO it doesn't make sense to go from A5 to FM100 or from FM100 to A5.
 

MrErlo

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Apr 25, 2006
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Omaha, NE
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2003 Golf 4dr 5sp
3/8" flared or MPT??

quick question about the hose barb and the port plug.

i was just down at the hardware store, and no surprise... they didn't have the 3/8" - 5/16" hose barb i was looking for. so i guess my small local Ace Hardware didn't come thru for me, i'll have to do to Home Depot or Lowes. the question is, while i was there i tried both a 3/8" flared piece, and a 3/8th" MPT (which i assume meant male pipe type) piece. the flared piece seemed to loose, even if i were to apply some tape. the MPT seemed too tight, after about 3 complete turns it became much more difficult to turn and when removed appeared to have scratched a couple flecks of paint away from the inside of the FM-100 thread.

which of these fittings do you recommend? will the 3/8" MPT fit with just an appropriate amount more force?

hopefully Lowes will have that 3/8" -> 5/16" barb piece, and the 3/8" plugs...
 
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