The "What did you do to your B4 today" thread...

john.jackson9213

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2007
Location
Miramar, Ca. (Think Top Gun)
TDI
1996 B4V
Got the wagon out of the shop this morning. Both Axel's and all 4 CV joints were replaced AGAIN. Seems to be OK after a couple of hours driving. Shop wants to replace all 3 motor mounts, but I have ZERO confidence in their parts sources.
My total bill was 1645 and I know they didn't make any money. I also paid about $250 for rental car.
We will see what happens next.
 

Stromaluski

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Location
Greenville, SC
TDI
'67 Deluxe Bus, '80 Rabbit Truck, '92 Corrado, '10 Cup Edition
Finally started reassembly on my mk3. Got the head back from Frank on Tuesday. Screwed in the ARP head studs, and put the head on the engine only to find that I don't own a 12 point 14mm socket, which is needed for the ARP nuts. Also can't find what I did with the copper plated nuts used for bolting the exhaust manifold to the head. Good times.
 

97B4TDi

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2007
Location
Wisconsin
TDI
1997 B4 Passat, 2013 Jetta Sportwagen TDI
Gave it a good wash and checked the fluid levels before I head to Chicago tomorrow for the Auto Show.

Love a freshly cleaned car before a road trip!
 

theodore

Active member
Joined
Aug 8, 2017
Location
Spokane, Wa.
TDI
2) 1996 b4 Passat
im rebuilt hding two engines at the same time... this morning i relized i put the 1.6 TIMING
belt in the 1.9 and visa versa, They look same but had different part numbers heads arnt on yet so no big deal to switch 'em. ,
 

quantum_tdi

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2004
Location
Seattle, WA
TDI
R320 CDI, '96 B4V (for sale)
Catching up on last few weeks maintenance- I had to suck it up that Wagon & sedan wouldn't sell as a combined "make an awesome B4V" kit so I'm fixing up to sell separately.

* New master & slave cylinder on sedan clutch
* Buffed lenses on sedan
* Filters, oil, etc.
* Drove cheap VR6 GLX Wagon 120 miles for parts, VR6 locked up 2 miles from home - this is going to be a 24 hours of Lemons car if anyone has a stray VR6 to get rid of...
* New heater core + dash rebuild on wagon
- refelted blend doors
* New (to it) carpet in Wagon
* Swapping GLX interior into wagon
* Collected the many, many extra parts (including interior plastic) that a friend & I have for wagons.
 

iluvmydiesels

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2015
Location
phila area
TDI
AHU
* New heater core + dash rebuild on wagon
- refelted blend doors
i ve had some advice on replacing heater core, was it aluminum was advised, to not put plastic (type)core back in
i dont think felt on blend doors may be the smartest, you dont want later for it to go to bits and pieces, like factory. i thought the best way was the glue i posted in blend door sticky fix, id recommend aluminum tape, around the edges, (whether both doors, or just the vent/blend door is a question) is an edging that was recommended so it eliminates 'whistling' sound. of course all these are in sticky fix post.
the aluminum tape should never fail, or come apart. (under normal conditions).(as the wallymart al tape is rather thin, id double it up, cannt hurt anything, added reinforcement).(use glue spray on both tape layers).
 

quantum_tdi

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2004
Location
Seattle, WA
TDI
R320 CDI, '96 B4V (for sale)
The way more durable felt rather than foam will work well. In addition I've considered aluminum taping all of it. I have not been able to find the aluminum only core though I've seen it advised- the supposed 2003 version still had plastic where I thought aluminum should have replaced it....

i ve had some advice on replacing heater core, was it aluminum was advised, to not put plastic (type)core back in
i dont think felt on blend doors may be the smartest, you dont want later for it to go to bits and pieces, like factory. i thought the best way was the glue i posted in blend door sticky fix, id recommend aluminum tape, around the edges, (whether both doors, or just the vent/blend door is a question) is an edging that was recommended so it eliminates 'whistling' sound. of course all these are in sticky fix post.
the aluminum tape should never fail, or come apart. (under normal conditions).(as the wallymart al tape is rather thin, id double it up, cannt hurt anything, added reinforcement).(use glue spray on both tape layers).
 

97B4TDi

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2007
Location
Wisconsin
TDI
1997 B4 Passat, 2013 Jetta Sportwagen TDI
The B4 was broken into over the weekend through one of the small rear quarter windows. If I were to locate the window in a junk yard are they able to be removed and replaced by an “average joe” or would you just recommend a glass shop take care of it?
 

lisab4

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2013
Location
Belgium
TDI
1996 Passat B4 1.9 TDI
You can do it yourself. Take the plastic trim apart carefully and you can access the screws for the small window. Do not overtighten as they can pop off the glass. A lot of work but not that difficult. Just go slow and be careful.
 

Stromaluski

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Location
Greenville, SC
TDI
'67 Deluxe Bus, '80 Rabbit Truck, '92 Corrado, '10 Cup Edition
When I took my mk3 apart, I found that my Intake Pipe was trashed. Both tabs at the turbo were broken off and the hose was split, as well. Did a google search for the part number and came up with an eBay auction for a replacement from Latvia that didn't *quite* match the part number, but was close enough that I figured I'd give it a shot. Here's what I received as a replacement. The only things different that I notice is that it does not have the CCV Heater, and it does not have the same clearancing on the back side. Hopefully it'll still work for me, though.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Vo...bit-Golf-Cabrio-1E-3A-1H0129654Q/202183457050



 

lisab4

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2013
Location
Belgium
TDI
1996 Passat B4 1.9 TDI
Hi! :) Yup, I'm in Belgium :) I think I'm the only regular here from Belgium.
Still working on the full restoration of my B4. 3 years in now. Hope to start the engine soon but I am so busy with work, little time for the B4 at the moment :( Goal is to drive this summer though!
 

Digital Corpus

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Location
Ontario, California
TDI
'97 B4 w/ 236K mi body, 46K mi soul
About 2 weeks ago our white B4 showed definitive blown head gasket signs. Finishing up the job right now with a bunch of downtime for fixing things while I’m there. Not the least of which is removing the 1/8-1/4” slot crap from the intake ports. I uses a hybrid cleaning method of propane fire and soaking in solvent. They aren’t perfect, but they won’t be indistinguishable from brand new. Had to use a water hose to flush free chunks out. For the record, I have the EGR cooler.

While I was there, I refurbed my MityVac handpump with new lube. I can build 30 PSI again, now. This GT1544 also cracks at 8-9 psi and moves at 10 psi, just like my old one. Looks like the thread pitch on the actuator is ~1 psi/revolution and I upped the pressure to 10.5 just because. Others have reported a much lower fracking pressure, but I’m
Confident that no one has done anything to this turbo. Btw, minimal radial play and no discernible axial play. Blades on the compressor look wonderful.

The head had light scoring from the old HG. The block had *none* whatsoever. I’m going to adjust the tune to drastically reduce/turn off the EGR along the normal driving conditions so I don’t have to burn out the intake manifold again. Speaking of which, burn plus pressure washer *up* the intake ports does clean it fully, unlike the cutaway I posted many years back. Still need to tap the weep hole for a drain. What’s the threading others have used?

Anyhow, fully lubbed 12.9 bolts were used with a thick washer + hardened washer setup as before. Reduced friction for torquing me as greater clamping force at the same torque level, thus the 12.9’s yield a benefit. Along with the sticky Permatex copper gasket stuff. I used a bit of twine to secure the new HG to the head & EM, which worked well since I couldn’t find my 3/8” aluminum rods I’ve previously used for alignment.

Since we have updated nozzles, 520’s I think but I’ll have to check notes, and a cleaned head, and a tad higher opening pressure on the turbo, I’ll probably tweak the boost & N75 maps too while adjusting EGR, after flushing fluids. Don’t want to clean that intake manifold again if I don’t have too and I want this car to have a bit more oommf like mine when it was stock.
 

Steve Addy

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 7, 2002
Location
Iowa
TDI
97 Mk3
When I took my mk3 apart, I found that my Intake Pipe was trashed. Both tabs at the turbo were broken off and the hose was split, as well. Did a google search for the part number and came up with an eBay auction for a replacement from Latvia that didn't *quite* match the part number, but was close enough that I figured I'd give it a shot. Here's what I received as a replacement. The only things different that I notice is that it does not have the CCV Heater, and it does not have the same clearancing on the back side. Hopefully it'll still work for me, though.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Vo...bit-Golf-Cabrio-1E-3A-1H0129654Q/202183457050



Curious as to whether your new part will work. The only thing I can think of that's back there that would create a clearance problem would be the EGR cooler / piping.

It's also possible if it won't fit, to gently heat with heat gun and push in slightly until it does clear.

Also, IDK how the new one is made but I was under the impression that the ccv heater could be removed, so maybe the new one can be removed too? Just a couple thoughts.

Also for my B3V sent MFA cluster to Derek for modification. The cluster was working properly but it should have the two caps replaced and then reprogrammed for 4 cylinder use. I have replaced the caps before but it was just easier to have him do it during the reprogramming. Can't wait to get it back.

Steve
 

Stromaluski

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Location
Greenville, SC
TDI
'67 Deluxe Bus, '80 Rabbit Truck, '92 Corrado, '10 Cup Edition
Curious as to whether your new part will work. The only thing I can think of that's back there that would create a clearance problem would be the EGR cooler / piping.

It's also possible if it won't fit, to gently heat with heat gun and push in slightly until it does clear.

Also, IDK how the new one is made but I was under the impression that the ccv heater could be removed, so maybe the new one can be removed too? Just a couple thoughts.

Also for my B3V sent MFA cluster to Derek for modification. The cluster was working properly but it should have the two caps replaced and then reprogrammed for 4 cylinder use. I have replaced the caps before but it was just easier to have him do it during the reprogramming. Can't wait to get it back.

Steve
I'm in the middle of doing a VNT conversion on my car, using a BHW exhaust manifold/turbo, so I think it's going to work fine for me. I'm not sure whether or not it would work fine on a stock application, though, without the clearancing on the back. I'll look closer at the CCV heater, but am not terribly worried about it. Looked like it may be a good option for somebody with a stock car having trouble finding a replacement, though.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
Pulled the suitcase muffler off the sedan. It dropped about 2 weeks ago and I’ve been avoiding the fix.

Finally put the car on ramps and investigated the situation. After the muffler was in my hands, it was a lot worse than expected. It’s been hissing for a longggg time...

Spent about $20 in some clamps, couplers and a 90° bend and it was a quick fix. I didn’t feel like dragging the welder out for the tubing or to attach the hanger point, in front of the suitcase. A custom piece of 12 ga Romex was pinched under the clamp and looped through the rubber hanger. Seems to work perfectly, but I cut the hanger off the suitcase and tossed it in a hardware bucket, just in case....

-Todd
 

Bob S.

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 17, 2006
Location
Central MD.
TDI
A B4V, some ALHs & BRMs
IP reseal, Diesel Purged, clutched alternator pulley, interior & exterior cleaning & getting ready to return it to use as my daily driver. Next on the list is a suspension refresh. If any one has a decent set of tan leather seats & door cards they are willing to part with, I am interesting in talking.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
Diagnosed a crazy clunking, that occurred while en route to a friend’s house today. Upon getting the car in the air, it appears a portion of the rear shock bushing blew through the upper spring hat.

This is on the wagon, so I’m not looking forward to the interior disassembly.

-Todd
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
I pulled the trim out if the car, to expose the top of the shock. That was the part that I was dreading.

Should have placed a space heater in the car and I ended up breaking 2 clips. I spent a bit of time cleaning, scarring and reattaching them. They’re probably stronger than original and unless you pull the trim, you’d never see the repair.

Anyway, the top if the shock is definitely clunking around. Been a few years since I did rear shocks, so I don’t recall how they’re supposed to be attached. I do recall some type of plastic piece at the top and that’s not there.

Supposed to be snowing tomorrow into Wednesday, so I’ll do some research and revisit later.

-Todd
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
Got back to the clunking rear shock. From the wheel well, this is what I was seeing. Something isn’t right...




Put the car in the air with the Quick Jack. Bought this about 6 months back and I’m still on the fence if I like it. I probably only used it 5 times.





This was the culprit... pulled some spare parts, from a car that I parted.




Wire wheeled the rust off the spring perch and sprayed some paint. There was no dust boot that came off, so I used an old Rabbit bump stop and dust boot. The bump stop is the same length as the B4’s so I don’t foresee any issue.

I understand the concept of the plastic thing at the top, but I wasted more time trying to get it to latch. I ended up reaching in and hand threading the short retaining bolts. It’s not latched, but it’s installed....




Road tested the car and all is good. Reinstalled the plastic trim and cleaned up. Time for a nap.

-Todd
 

Abacus

That helpful B4 guy
Joined
Nov 10, 2007
Location
Relocated from Maine to Dewey, AZ
TDI
Only the B4V left
The plastic thing at the top is just to hold the shock while you start the bolts. If it doesn't line up just remove it, rotate it 90°, and pop it back on.

That quick jack looks handy.

I infrequently use the OEM dust boots since they don't last. I've switched to Rancho or Skyjacker shock boots and just cut them to is length.
 

ToddA1

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Aug 3, 2011
Location
NJ 08002
TDI
'96 B4V, '97 B4 (sold), '97 Jetta (scrapped)
I actually tried a Rancho boot. I didn’t like the fact that I’d need to cut it, to fit the bump stop. The Rabbit boot/cover is hard plastic and will never fail, unless it somehow breaks... it’s probably close to 40 years old.

If I could actually pull into my garage, the Quick Jack would be better, but if I could pull into my garage I’d have a 2 pole lift, Max Jack or something with more lift.

Since I can’t leave it out, it’s not as convenient. Grabbing a standard floor jack is faster, for most tasks.

-Todd
 

Yblocker

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Location
Oakland, CA
TDI
1997 Passat
Finishing up the timing belt job. The old tensioner I removed look like this when I took it off, and I'm still trying to understand how that happened.



I did this job the first time right about 60,000 miles ago when I bought the car, and then again now. The first time I did it I replaced the water pump, the intermediate shaft seal, the cam seal and cleaned the intake. This is my "new" tensioner (actually 13 years old!) installed.



About 20,000 miles ago I had to do the head gasket, so at that time I cleaned the intake again. The intake looks pretty good to me for 20,000 miles. I'll drive the car for a tankful then put it on vagcom to check the timing.

 
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Yblocker

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Location
Oakland, CA
TDI
1997 Passat
So as part of the timing belt job in doing, I wanted to see why my intercooler was leaking oil.



I cleaned it and rigged up a simple test with some stuff I had on hand. I did have to buy the schrader tire valve. I pressured it up to 20 psi and sprayed soap solution on it and found one area that bubbled.



So I decided that before I uncrimp the tank from the core, I would try and give the tabs in the leaky area a squeeze with a pair of channel lock pliers. No more bubbles at 20 psi! I think I'll leave well enough alone for now.

Caution! 20 psi is quite a lot of pressure. More that you think. If you try this, make sure your conections are oil free and tight. DO NOT get in the way of whatever you are using to block off the inlet and outlet when you pressure up. The first try when I did this, I put the side without the schader valve over the house into my upper garden! Be very careful and sneak up on the pressure. 10 psi is probabaly enough anayway for test purposes.
 

Sootyperry

Member
Joined
Apr 18, 2013
Location
NH/VT
TDI
2x 96' b4v, 02 Jetta wagon, 95 6bta dog
Replaced LCA bushings in the Lady's B4V tdi with TT ones and didn't break any captive nuts. My crap wagon B4V tdi got new rear wheel bearings and pads/calipers, woot functional e brake again!
 
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