++ 2011 JSW 6MT Build ++

evolDiesel

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Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Location
PACIFIC NW
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2011 JSW 6MT (and several others in the past)
Build Thread

Update:
My DieselGate buyback appointment is Jan 11th, 2017. I'm going to be sad to see her go. Here's one of the last photos of her:




This is my 4th TDI, 2nd Sportwagen, 7th diesel, and the 6th that I've built up. I've never done a thread like this but always wanted to.

2011 JSW TDI 6MT, stock as can be.


Paid $18,600 with 67,400 miles. It was very challenging to find a black one with 6MT.

Brief history:

This was my Stage 2 2011 DSG that I sold a year ago after brief and shameful foray into Subaru for the sake of AWD (I tried very hard to buy this back from the new owner but he's in love with it).



Before that I had a MKV Stage 1+ 5MT. This was a very, very fun car that I sold to get into a wagen (family growing).
 
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evolDiesel

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Feb 15, 2011
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PACIFIC NW
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2011 JSW 6MT (and several others in the past)
Date: APR 17, 2015
State: Baseline Stock
Location: P.R.E. Portland, OR

138Hp / 231Lb-Ft



Malone states 133Hp/225Lb-Ft for "stock", so I'm +5Hp and +8Tq but on 3 dyno pulls the graphs were very consistent. I'm anxious to see what I have after Stage 2.

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Date: JUL 24, 2015
State: Malone Stage 2 + All Deletes
Location: P.R.E. Portland, OR

171Hp / 317Lb-Ft



I'm impressed +33/+86. Feels every bit of it too ;).


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I'm predicting this based off my dyno results and Malone's figures. Beware .. math involved...

Date: TBD 2016
State: CR170 Malone Stage 3
Location: P.R.E. Portland, OR

193Hp / 335Lb-Ft
 
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evolDiesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Location
PACIFIC NW
TDI
2011 JSW 6MT (and several others in the past)
For (2) reasons I went with wheels/cosmetic upgrades first over performance:

1. Still can't seem to bring myself to a decision on Malone Stage 1.5 or 2.
2. I need an alignment and wheel balancing and we're traveling to Seattle for Thanksgiving.

So my very, very first upgrade was to color match the side markers. I really liked the improvement on my white car (in post #1).

Here's what I sourced:


Also, my wheels are currently off the car and at my buddy's shop for painting. I did this exact same thing last year with my VW 17" Goals (Also see the white car in post #1 and the white X5d on the left in the photo below). They will be done in satin black as I've been really pleased with the first 2 sets I ran through him.



On the way up to Seattle for the holiday we'll stop by Achtuning for a pair of H&R DRA 20mm spacers:



This too is just a cosmetic thing for me. Last time I did it I didn't really notice any significant change in driving.
 
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evolDiesel

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Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Location
PACIFIC NW
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2011 JSW 6MT (and several others in the past)


It's good to know someone at the only company that makes gauges in the USA.
 

evolDiesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Location
PACIFIC NW
TDI
2011 JSW 6MT (and several others in the past)
In my Stage 2 JSW DSG I had an OBDII bluetooth sender and the Torque app on my smart phone. I remember there being very few times in 'normal' even 'normal spirited' driving where I could run WOT long enough to see the ECU cutting off fuel due to EGT. I do remember getting up to 1600F but not very often. Anyway... we'll see :)
 
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evolDiesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Location
PACIFIC NW
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2011 JSW 6MT (and several others in the past)


The 27mm Hotchkiss RSB is much beefier than stock :cool:

Also: There's a point I want to make and it's the type of information that motivated me to do this build thread in the first place.

Point 1: On my first CR140 JSW I bought a nice Ferrari red RSB from APR. I was running around saying it was the best $300 I spent on the wagen as it really shored up the horrible understeer. Anyway... it turns out APR just gets these from Hotchkiss, paint red and rebrand to say "APR" and charge $300 bones for them. The original Hotchkiss can be had for $200 & free shipping from Amazon. Even if you like the red color of the APR, the truth is you'll never see it as it's too far tucked up under the car. So, the point is buy the Hotchkiss one, not APR. I personally attest they are exactly the same besides the color, branding, and damage to your wallet.
 

relegate

Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2014
Location
Radnor, PA
TDI
2014 Sportwagen
I noticed your 20mm spacer grab. What wheel/tire specs are you going to run? I have 18x8 +37 wheels with 235/40/18 and they rub with stock suspension. I'll pull and roll when I lower it, but curious...
 

evolDiesel

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Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Location
PACIFIC NW
TDI
2011 JSW 6MT (and several others in the past)
I'm just running the stock 17" LeMans. There appears to be tons of room. So much so I've considered moving the 20mm spacers from the rear to the front and getting 25mm or even 30mm for the rear. Obviously these wheels aren't super wide and I'm growing concerned about grip. Grip has been the #1 problem with my first 3 TDI's... even the 1.9PD Stage 1+ with wide TSW 18'S and new rubber. If I get bored enough at the end of all this there's a good chance I'll sell off the satin black LeMans for a set of VMR's or similar. An LSD is of interest too but I haven't priced it out yet.
 
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evolDiesel

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Feb 15, 2011
Location
PACIFIC NW
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2011 JSW 6MT (and several others in the past)
Just a quick update:

I've decided to go Malone Stage 2 with EGR delete and GDM 2.5" turbo-back exhaust with EGR delete race/test pipe :).

Due to this decission I decided to hold off on installing the ISSPRO gauges until after I have the exhaust and can weld in the themocouple bung. However I have the guages and the NewSouth column pod test fitted and ready to go :cool:.

Lastly, because this is such a big chunk to bite off AND we're right in the middle of the holidays I've decided to push this phase into February. So there will be a small pause in the action but I'll be back. I'm hoping to get in for a baseline dyno run at PSI in January.
 

Paulinski

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Joined
Apr 14, 2013
Location
Brantford, Ontaro
TDI
09 Jetta Wagon Highline
New Diesel Dubs outfit.

OP

Looks like you scored last of their exhaust kits and from the rumour floating here they are using Rawtek now.

I have 3" Rawtek turbo back and quality is amazing.
 

BleachedBora

Vendor , w/Business number
Joined
Oct 16, 2003
Location
Gresham, Oregon
TDI
'81 DMC-12, '15 GL350 CDI 275 hp/448 tq - '81 Caddy CJAA, '05 E320 CDI 250hp/450 tq, '23 ID4 AWD Pro S Plus
Looking forward to seeing how it shapes up! Let us know if we can help at all :)
Cheers!
-BB
 

evolDiesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Location
PACIFIC NW
TDI
2011 JSW 6MT (and several others in the past)
It wasn’t until my 4th TDI that I finally got my very own P2015 code for intake flapper valve failure. For those that haven’t had the pleasure yet of getting this CEL code, it really boils down to the V157 motor reporting an out-of-range condition. It is the result of the V157 motor arm traveling too far and out of range. My local VW dealership did a quick scan for the condition and quoted me $880 in parts and labor; and apparently this is common!



I got hooked up with Jim Royston at Dieselgeek during their development of a P2015 repair kit (click link for Dieselgeek’s product page) which is essentially a simple 3-piece assembly consisting of a CNC’d aluminum bracket, precision top plate and a T30/6mm screw. This assembly bolts up to the V157 motor with the existing bottom V157 flapper motor bolt and limits the extent the motor can travel which prevents the out-of-range condition.



The assembly takes about 10 minutes to install. It’s a very simple yet clever design that would appear to eliminate the possibility of getting the out-of-range condition by providing a backstop for the V157 motor arm to rest on. Since the P2015 fix bracket is aluminum and not plastic like the intake manifold linkage assembly, it will not wear out.



We had some additional troubleshooting on my car for other related fault codes and the guys at Dieselgeek really bent over backwards by sending me not one but two different V157’s to sort out the issue. They responded to emails at odd hours of the night due to our 2 hour time difference and worked with me for the better part of a couple months as I was traveling for work or caught up with family life (my garage time is often limited to after 8pm PST).

I can’t say enough good things about Dieselgeek and the service they provide. I’m excited to try their Sigma 6 Speed Short Shifter next.
 
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evolDiesel

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Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Location
PACIFIC NW
TDI
2011 JSW 6MT (and several others in the past)
So, I've been too busy with troubleshooting & repairs to do much. I've had 3 so far in just a matter of months... and knock on wood, I dodged the bullet on all of them.

1. Trip to Arizona for family vacation, get back to PDX airport and the wagen is electrically dead. I was convinced it would be more than a corroded negative cable and a bad battery. Well, that's all it was! Got lucky. $150.

2. Air intake manifold? Nope. Dodged that with a DieselGeek P2015 kit (previous post above). $65.

3. Panoramic roof for $2,418? See next post for stunning conclusion and why you should always question the dealer.
 

evolDiesel

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Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Location
PACIFIC NW
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2011 JSW 6MT (and several others in the past)
Repair #3:
Took a turn at lunch and a stream of water came out of the light switch and got my co-worker all wet. Well, that can't be good. 2 weeks later I go to open my panoroof on a nice day and it's dead.

The first thing I'm thinking is the switch is toast as nothing works on it, including the curtain. So I buy a used switch off ebay for $27. No luck. At this point I fear the worst.

Here we go... thousands of dollars, right? I took it in to the dealer and here's what I got:

Yes, $2,418! You read that right.

This word is not in my vocabulary but it's the only one that comes to mind: I was flabbergasted. Needless to say, I just took the car home. I could not believe the cost!

So, like any dude I start seaching google and forums and what I find is that these JSW's are notorious for leaking panoramic roofs; even to the extent of a classaction lawsuit! Wow.

Apparently the drains get clogged &/or disconnected. Based on where the leak came from, and no stains in the headliner my initial theory is the front drain(s) got clogged resulting in a backup of water which on a turn ran from one corner to the center of the roof frame and down into the control panel. Also, I thought it was strange that the curtain was unresponsive too. I dig into that and find a diagram that shows their are 2 indentical motors. 1 in the front for the glass, 1 in the rear for the curtain. However, the rear is piggyback-powered off the front motor. So, at this point, knowing the switch is fine, my attention focuses to the front motor and I assume it has shorted out &/or seized from water damage.

So, I take apart the entire roof control console. There are like 6 or so torx screws and several plugs to disconnect before you get to the motor. Also, I realize right away that a VW design engineer screwed up. There is a plastic support member that runs right though the middle of the cavity, blocking access to the pano-glass motor. Now, they were smart enough to have a hole in the center where you could run the worm gear manually but access to the 3 torx screws that secure the motor to the frame are all but impossible to remove. No big deal, just carefully temporarily relocate the ribbon cable that is lightly adhered to the plastic member, make some pilot marks, wedge a small peice of wood in there to protect things and drill away. I drilled 2 holes for accessing the last 2 motor mounting screws.

Once I got the motor pulled I noticed the stripped screws that the shop foreman wrote up.



I can't help but think he tried to remove them without drilling holes which would have the torx driver at an angle and, yes, you would marr the torx heads pretty good. I mean, is he trying to get me to believe the screws were stripped when VW assembled this car together? I doubt it. Verdict: GUILTY.

So, I'm having a hard time turning the worm gear manually. I open the motor.



Its obvious how full of water this was. The circuit board is corroded and crusty. There's evidence of rust everywhere.



I go back out to the car with a multi-meter and so some testing.

1. Harness has power.
2. Hook harness up to motor circuit board and get nothing at the 2 motor leads.

So, its really pointing to the motor circuit board getting fried.

To really put an end to the debate of what the repair is, I cleaned and WD40'd the motor gearing and got it to spin. Remounted the motor, got my Allen wrench and manually ran the worm gear.



Roof opens just fine. No squeaks or creaks. There appears to be nothing mechanically wrong with the roof.

So, I find and order a used motor off German ebay for $36. Takes almost 3 weeks to get here so in the meantime I research cleaning the drains. Sounds like weed wacker line is the way to go.



The driver's side is pretty clean. The passenger side is disgusting. But eventually I get confident enough to pour water down the drains for a test. We're all good! Water all over the garage lol.

An eternity later I get the motor. First things first. Make sure the roof was closed before you hook up the motor. Then go through the motor travel reset procedure to make sure the motor thinks its closed. Hook up the connections and turn the switch: Open, Close, Raise, Close.

Now, remount the motor and cross fingers:



Victory!

Now go back to the top of this post and read the dealer shop foreman's diagnostic and think about how ridiculous that was. Now, consider that a regular guy who's not a service tech, let alone the Shop Foreman, just did some online research, logical troubleshooting and fixed it for less than $100. I don't want to be a dealer-hater but between the P2015 repair and this one I could have spent over $3,000 at the dealer. Instead it was less than a couple hundred bucks and it could have been cheaper if I didn't buy a switch I didn't need ($27) and the used motor shipping from Germany ($46).
 
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evolDiesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Location
PACIFIC NW
TDI
2011 JSW 6MT (and several others in the past)
As my Stage 2 and associated equipment continues to get covered in garage dust I make matters worse by finding a DNS-811 head unit for sale on VWVortex. $400 shipped



http://www.audiosources.net/prod_view.aspx?TypeId=50001&Id=213&FId=t3:50001:3

I couldn't pass it up as I had the earlier model ANS-810 in my last car and there was a lot to like about it. This new one is much improved and I'm excited to get it installed. Too bad it will probably push off Stage 2 another month lol.
 
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canux

Veteran Member
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Mar 4, 2010
Location
Toronto
TDI
2013 Beetle TDI
I am REALLY interested in how the DNS811 works for you. I've been looking for a way to get Waze integrated into the dash and this looks like it would fit the bill. Please keep us posted on the integration!
 

evolDiesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Location
PACIFIC NW
TDI
2011 JSW 6MT (and several others in the past)
I've been looking for a way to get Waze integrated...
Not sure how well that is going to work. The unit comes with a different nav than Waze and as far as running it off my smart device, well, I have no interest in keeping my phone somewhere visible to GPS satelites and controlling the DNS with my phone screen.
Is that head unit PnP?
Plug and Play? Yup - totally.

['bragging'] Getting it for $400 shipped :rolleyes:.

Also RS4's are mounted. Just need nice new tires to wrap them in. Speaking of... anyone local to PDX, OR should know that Armstrong VW dealer will be doing buy 3 tires get 4th for free in April. So, I'm hoping to get tires next week. Still debating heavily between 215-40's & 225-40 as I'll be dropping 1.5" with H&R sports soon and don't want any or hardly any rubbing if I can help it. RS4's are 18x8.
 

amstel78

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Joined
Jan 24, 2012
Location
Shohola, PA
TDI
2012 Golf TDI [buyback completed 14/1/2017] 2006 S65 AMG
Subscribed! Great thread; I'm going to follow your progress.

Question though - I've never cleaned the drains in my Golf's standard (not pano) sunroof. It still functions fine... at least last time I checked in the summer. My Golf is garaged during the day and at night and was wondering if yours was too? If so, I wonder how the crud accumulated in the drain holes. To be on the safe side however, I think I'm going to run some weed trimmer line down there once the weather gets warmer.

P.S. if that DNS811 is truly plug and play, I'm assuming you have to install a separate BT module for those of us with RNS315s with integrated BT?
 

evolDiesel

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2011
Location
PACIFIC NW
TDI
2011 JSW 6MT (and several others in the past)
Subscribed! Great thread; I'm going to follow your progress.

Question though - I've never cleaned the drains in my Golf's standard (not pano) sunroof. It still functions fine... at least last time I checked in the summer. My Golf is garaged during the day and at night and was wondering if yours was too? If so, I wonder how the crud accumulated in the drain holes. To be on the safe side however, I think I'm going to run some weed trimmer line down there once the weather gets warmer.

P.S. if that DNS811 is truly plug and play, I'm assuming you have to install a separate BT module for those of us with RNS315s with integrated BT?
Thanks, dude!

I suggest cleaning the drains once a year. The front drains are pretty easy using weed wacker line. What's in there is fine sediment; perfect for clogging. How does it get there? I'm not sure. Oh, I park outside.

I have integrated bluetooth and if the DNS is anything like the ANS you just use the head unit for all things bluetooth. Allegedly there is better integration from the H.U. to the MFD, but I don't think it's that much better. Hopefully I'll know first thing next week.
 
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