Manual transmission fluid change how-to with pics

TomJD

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 9, 2010
Location
St. Louis
TDI
2000 Jetta TDI GLS, 2015 Golf TDI
Thanks Yuri!

Well I recently rolled over 200,000 miles and I believe now is a good time to change it, although I am not really having any shifting issues. Maybe I should just leave it as it is?
 

Judson

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 18, 2001
Location
Cheyenne, WY
TDI
2001 Jetta
I thought I would post an update: fluid was changed to G70.
I'm not sure if this was the ONLY difference, but since I brought
it in last, it has improved to the point where the problem is
completely gone. Rarely do I get an issue attempting to get
into reverse - and I just need to be patient there.

ALL of the problems with downshifting are gone.

I was told two different stories by the owner of the shop
(not the mechanic who did the work): first, that the oil
that came out was like tar, then the second time I visited
he said it was just fine. Recently, the owner retired and
sold it to a good guy of whom I have a lot more faith.

So, while I can't be 100% sure, the only real variable here
is the tranny oil change.

As for driving her, what a relief I tell you not to have to
deal with the fear of grinding a gear.
 

ronmcor

New member
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Location
fla
TDI
1999vw beetle tdi
Looking at this thread

reading this thread was very good information, especially about using the 17 mm lug nut off a tire for the fill plug. That same set at autozone went from $8 when this thread was done to todays low price of $29. :(
 

MoCoBabs

Member
Joined
Nov 26, 2008
Location
Bloomington, IN
TDI
2003 Jetta
Read through the post and it's very informative, thank you to all the posters. My question; I have roughly 165,900 miles on the clutch and really no prior problems shifting. Now all of a sudden my clutch pedal is not working properly. Sat down in drivers seat to start the car only to find the pedal already depressed. Could manually pull it back in place, but obviously something is not right as when I pushed the pedal down it wants to stay down. I'm now planning to change my tranny oil, but does any one any other ideas that maybe causing my problem with the clutch pedal?
 

kennethsime

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 29, 2010
Location
California
TDI
2004 Jetta Wagon GL TDI 5-Speed Baltic Green
Thanks Yuri!

Well I recently rolled over 200,000 miles and I believe now is a good time to change it, although I am not really having any shifting issues. Maybe I should just leave it as it is?
I'm at 210 as we speak, I changed my tranny oil about 2k ago. I didn't really have any shifting problems either, but it now shifts noticeably smoother. I also found some smallish metal particulates (not bad for 200k miles), but overall the fluid was pretty clean. In short, worth it. :)

Read through the post and it's very informative, thank you to all the posters. My question; I have roughly 165,900 miles on the clutch and really no prior problems shifting. Now all of a sudden my clutch pedal is not working properly. Sat down in drivers seat to start the car only to find the pedal already depressed. Could manually pull it back in place, but obviously something is not right as when I pushed the pedal down it wants to stay down. I'm now planning to change my tranny oil, but does any one any other ideas that maybe causing my problem with the clutch pedal?
MoCab, changing your transmission oil will not help your problem (although it's not a bad idea). Your clutch is part of a hydraulic system which also includes your brakes (your clutch fluid and brake fluid are the same thing and use the same master cylinder I believe). For one reason or another, the hydraulic system is malfunctioning and not pushing your clutch back out as it should.
 

Thirstyturtle328

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2011
Location
Eastern NC
TDI
2002 Golf GLS TDI
Thank you so much for the great write-up!

I changed mine this weekend @ 195k miles because, to my knowledge, it was the original fluid. But the shifting was perfectly acceptable, buttery smooth in my opinion.

However, since the change, the shifter is now pretty difficult to move left and right and I am constantly having to try twice to get it into 1st gear and hitting a wall on 3rd. Like I'll be sitting at a light, it turns green, I push it into 1st and it just stops, so I have to pull back to neutral and try again. NEVER had that problem before. What's the deal?!

The old fluid was dirty, and had metal shavings in it. I used VW G070 fluid to replace it with, slightly over 1.5 liters...

Any ideas about why this is happening? I've never regretted a fluid change until now...
 

BlankThis

Veteran Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2012
Location
Montreal, QC
TDI
2002 Golf GLS TDI
I use GM Synchromesh in mine... No complaints.
I've heard good things from the Honda community about this stuff. Are you using the normal stuff or with friction modifiers? I'm scared of what's going to come out of my drain plug :S

Second has been grinding from 1st to 2nd until the engine warms up. 1st won't engage easily at all under the same conditions. 3rd feels a little crunchy too.
 

Yblocker

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 1, 2010
Location
Oakland, CA
TDI
1997 Passat
Is the clutch engagement point the same as before? Reverse grinding too? It almost sounds like a coincidental clutch problem.
 

Thirstyturtle328

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 15, 2011
Location
Eastern NC
TDI
2002 Golf GLS TDI
Is the clutch engagement point the same as before? Reverse grinding too? It almost sounds like a coincidental clutch problem.
I'm assuming this was directed at me. Clutch engagement is the same, no reverse grinding, just difficult to get into reverse sometimes because the shifter just stops.

Here's what I posted in a new thread:

Well the first day or so of the change everything was okay although I definitely didn't think the shifting was any better. Well now it's been 5 or 6 days and the shifting is getting TERRIBLE. Moving the shifter left and right is genuinely difficult...so much so that if I push it all the way left or right it STAYS IN PLACE (see pictures). Also, pretty much every time I stop the vehicle, when I go to start again, it won't go into first (like it hits a wall), and I have to pull it back down into neutral and try again, usually takes 2 times, sometimes 3 or 4. Same deal when shifting into 3rd sometimes, it just stops and I have to pull it back into neutral and try again.

The only other thing I changed this weekend is my motor oil so I'm 100% sure that all of these symptoms are being caused by the transmission fluid change...but why?!?! Maybe the G070 is WAY thicker than whatever was in there before? I'm so upset about it because I've been honked at multiple times at lights because I'm unable to get it into gear :0(

Picture of shifter "stuck" to the left:


Picture of shifter "stuck" to the right:


Please help me guys! I'm assuming the answer is to change the fluid to something different but I really don't think G070 should be causing this much of an issue!

Link to new thread for any responses so we don't clog up the "How To":
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=377172
 

Snipely

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 7, 2003
Location
Chicago
TDI
2003 Jetta TDI Wagon, Indigo
Just completed the fluid change

At 151K I decided to do a manual transmission oil change on my 2003 with factory G070. The drain/fill plugs came out more easily than I expected. I used the PepBoys bottle adapter/tube setup with the twist valve. It worked pretty well for this, but the tube is too soft and kept kinking, making it hard for the fluid to flow in. Got better flow by punching a small hole in the bottom of the bottle. Rather than checking the proper fill level by waiting for it to overflow on a level car, I instead jacked up the front of the car, measured the volume of fluid that drained out, and put the same amount of new fluid back in. In my case this was 1.7 liters (1.8 quarts). Loosening the power steering line nut is a great tip, impossible to get a wrench on the fill plug otherwise, and getting a 1/2" drive torque wrench in there is dicy even with that line loosened up.
 

79TA7.6

Veteran Member
Joined
May 8, 2006
Location
Live: Wilbur/Creston; Work: Moses Lake Washington
TDI
2003 TDI Jetta, 2002 TDI Golf, 2005 TDI Golf
I just replaced the G060 that I had put in about 75K miles ago. It came out light brown colored. In went Lubro Moly gear oil. Starting out of the blue today shifting into first I am getting a bad grind. It only seems to do it at higher RPMs. I will report back tomorrow after getting some time on this new oil.
 

tongsli

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 31, 2000
Location
Baltimore, MD
TDI
2000 Jetta TDI, 2004, Jetta Wagon TDI PD
I changed my gear oil the other day to G-060-726-A2 (VW) and I forgot what a difference it makes with shifting.

I had changed it once before in the 13 years I've owned the car but can't remember how long I had this current batch in there. It was much darker than what I put back inside.

Very happy with the difference. Shifting improved greatly. Next time, I won't wait so long between changes.
 

tongsli

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 31, 2000
Location
Baltimore, MD
TDI
2000 Jetta TDI, 2004, Jetta Wagon TDI PD
I'm assuming this was directed at me. Clutch engagement is the same, no reverse grinding, just difficult to get into reverse sometimes because the shifter just stops.

Here's what I posted in a new thread:

Well the first day or so of the change everything was okay although I definitely didn't think the shifting was any better. Well now it's been 5 or 6 days and the shifting is getting TERRIBLE. Moving the shifter left and right is genuinely difficult...so much so that if I push it all the way left or right it STAYS IN PLACE (see pictures). Also, pretty much every time I stop the vehicle, when I go to start again, it won't go into first (like it hits a wall), and I have to pull it back down into neutral and try again, usually takes 2 times, sometimes 3 or 4. Same deal when shifting into 3rd sometimes, it just stops and I have to pull it back into neutral and try again.

The only other thing I changed this weekend is my motor oil so I'm 100% sure that all of these symptoms are being caused by the transmission fluid change...but why?!?! Maybe the G070 is WAY thicker than whatever was in there before? I'm so upset about it because I've been honked at multiple times at lights because I'm unable to get it into gear :0(

Picture of shifter "stuck" to the left:


Picture of shifter "stuck" to the right:


Please help me guys! I'm assuming the answer is to change the fluid to something different but I really don't think G070 should be causing this much of an issue!

Link to new thread for any responses so we don't clog up the "How To":
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=377172
Did you resolve this?
 

Frag85

New member
Joined
Aug 13, 2013
Location
CT
TDI
None :( (MKIV Jetta 1.8t)
Been a long time lurker, I don't own a TDI but this site has been great for general MKIV Jetta info and I finally registered so share my experiences. I needed to replace a leaky pivot pin o-ring, so I needed to drain the trains.

After no definitive answer from many VW forums I visited the dealer. The dealer told me G060 for the 02J, which is the updated G052 part number. This confirms the Bentley, TSB and VWparts saying G052 as original and the updated being G060, so I went with that rather than the G070 which appears to be designed for the newer trans. The service manager told me they keep bottles of G060 (and plan to always have it) on hand for these transmissions because G070 is not specified for them (but can be used). I was surprised that the dealer only charged $13 something per liter.

The fluid that came out looked dark amber in color like a nice beer, not the blackness of a stout like Guinness, but not as light in color as a light beer. More like a dark Ale. I could almost see through it in a 2 litre soda bottle, and no metal shavings or junk came out so I was happy about that. The trans has always shifted nicely so I knew it should come out looking good. The fill and drain plug had a slight coating on them slightly darker in color, it reminded me of the varnishes you see in a gas engine formed by the oil. Other than that it looked just fine. I only needed to change it to replace a pivot pin o-ring that has been weeping.

The new G060 fluid shifts just like the old. No complaints. No grinds. No hums. No notchiness. If anything going into 1st and R is slightly smoother, but that is probably me looking for a positive effect. With how thin this oil is at ambient temperature I'm surprised the shifting had a little more resistance in the winter when its below freezing. The stuff is like juice at 75F. Def not what I was expecting for trans/gear oil. It was effortless to fill the trans. No need to try and pump the stuff out of the bottle, it just flowed like water.



TL: DR
To make a long story short, there was no O-Ring on the pivot pin.... The dealer did not replace it, let alone put the old one back in when they must have drained the trans to replaced my clutch a while ago. If the trans oil has to be drained to do the clutch that was done at around 68/70k miles, about 6 or 7 years ago, then that is what happened.

Ever since a month or so after the clutch was replaced I had complained to the dealer about an oil drip the car was leaving. It wasn't much, but every once in awhile there was a fresh drip under the car. The bottom of the trans and part of the motor oil pan was coated in the oil within a week or so of wiping everything down, the dogbone engine mount and the subframe were also coated in oil. At least my subframe and inside parts of the driver side LCA hasn't rusted because of this, haha.

Thinking it was oil running from when the valve cover I kind of ignored it. The motor and trans oil were always at the proper level and It wasn't dripping everywhere so I never worried about it. It didn't smell like motor oil, and didn't quite smell like gear oil (I was thinking 75w90 and 75w140 that goes in axles and truck manual gear boxes).

About a year ago it started to leave a small drip every time I parked. I still couldn't find the leak after wiping things down. Trans/motor were full. Last week I found it when I had the car jacked up to check wheel speed sensors and lube my caliper guide pins. It was the pivot pin on the bottom of the case. After wiping everything down, it took about 30 minutes for the oil to seep to the edges of the tab on the pin that bolts it to the case. I was very surprised and a little annoyed (at the dealer) when I pulled the pin out and there was no o-ring there.... Not the first time I had a problem after having the dealer service the vehicle and then finding a problem... I seriously doubt the o-ring would have rotted out, dissolved, fallen apart because its not exposed to the elements and is completely covered up by the tab on the pivot pin. Any ideas?
 
Last edited:

tdi90hp

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2002
Location
Canuckland
TDI
2011 Golf TDI 6 speed(gone but NEVER forgotten)
what is current up to date spec on a CR 2011 manual golf for the trans oil.....seems to be lots of different oils being used from redline to GM synchromesh to G052 etc....
 

hskrdu

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 17, 2003
Location
Maryland and New England
TDI
2003 Golf GLS 4D 5M, 2015 GSW SE 6M
I used frugal's terrific how-to to change the trans oil on my Golf at 100k mi. I'm getting ready to change the oil in her Jetta, and I wanted to check to see if anyone can recall the thread about oil starvation/shortage to the 5th gear area: Specifically, can we add anything to this thread about draining the oil from the 5th gear area (02J), or filling the transmission a little extra to ensure oil is getting to 5th gear? Other good thoughts/comments appreciated, as always.
 

jobdonkey

New member
Joined
Jul 11, 2014
Location
Houston
TDI
2005 VW New Beetle
I changed mine last Saturday. Old one looked clean. I used Red Line MT-90 GL-4 and drove 200 miles in the morning without problem.
 

Holly Money

Well-known member
Joined
May 22, 2013
Location
Duvall, WA (near Seattle)
TDI
MKIV golf gls
I have a manual trans and I'm approaching 200,000 miles in the next month. I'm at 198,850 and am taking a toad trip almost 1200 miles. I will be towing 2000lbs and my car will also be full. I'm wondering should I change the transmission fluid now or do it the day I get to my destination? Car shifts fine now but sometimes makes a loud noise when shifting from neutral to reverse, and usually that's only right when I turn my car on, not halfway through a drive. I live in California where the weather is 70*F year round.

Also do I need to remove the bottom engine cover to do this?
 

vanbcguy

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 22, 2013
Location
Vancouver, BC
TDI
'93 Passat - AHU mTDI with GTB1756VK
New fluid won't really change how your transmission is behaving. The main thing affected by old fluid is the synchros, but if you aren't noticing shifting problems now then you probably won't notice much difference with new fluid either.

It is a good idea to change it since it gets metal filings in it over time but you aren't going to hurt it by going on a long drive.

Change it when it is convenient to you, keeping in mind that old fluid does cause the synchros to wear more.

The only exception to this is if you believe it might be seeping out. Running low on fluid will do a lot of damage, starting with 5th gear.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
My tranny looks different. Can anyone confirm if I've got the drain/fill plugs right?

The fill plug/hole is obviously correct.

The drain hole looks to be in a slightly different spot for your '13 model. However, if you do not see any other 17mm drain plug on the bottom, you've got it nailed down.

BTW, VW has been using the 17mm drain plug for as long as I can remember...... so, it should be quite obvious!
 
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