Head gasket only lasted 6000 Miles

Hello Everyone,

I’m just looking for a bit of advice. My car is a 2004 Jetta with a bew. It has a Garret turbo, straight 2.5” exhaust and a cold air intake. Boost peaks at around 24 psi. The PO installed everything and had it tuned. I just (6000 miles ago) finished putting the motor back together after the cam and lifters self-destructed. I took the head to a buddy who pressure tested it, milled it flat and installed new valves guides. I reassembled the head and put the motor back together, and now 6k later the head gasket is blown.
What do you guys think might have happened?
Are there some common mistakes I might have made putting this thing back together?
Could the increase in boost pressure have anything to do with it?
Where does everyone get their parts? Is it possible that I just received a junk gasket?
Anyone else had a similar experience?
Any help with this is really appreciated.

Did you use new head bolts and torque them correctly, and in the correct pattern?

First stage, 30 lb-ft
Second stage, 44 lb-ft
Third stage, turn 90 degrees
Fourth stage, turn 90 degrees

Was the correct thickness gasket selected based on piston protrusion?

Hmm. Could be the HG at fault or possible installation error on your part

Got to ask; did you install new head bolts? Was it correctly torqued to spec?
Was the block checked for flatness?


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Did the headgasket blow for sure? What are the symtoms? Where did you get the parts? Did you replace the bolts? Blow the holes before assembly?



Many many variables to conclude anything at this point.

Thanks for the responses guys I really appreciate it.

I did use new head bolts, I used the tightening pattern in my manual and torqued them according to the instructions. The deck of the block was also well within spec as far as flatness goes, but I didn't prep it in any other way except for giving it a good cleaning. is there something else I should have done to help the gasket seal better?

Other than making sure the head and block are clean and flat, and the bolts are torqued according to specifications, there's not much else to it.

If you're sure the head gasket has failed, I guess the only thing to do now is pull the head off and have a look.

"Was the correct thickness gasket selected based on piston protrusion?"

No, I just matched the gasket thickness from the old gasket. Ill be sure to take that into account when I order parts for round two. Thank you

"Did the head gasket blow for sure? What are the symptoms?"

I’m sure the gasket is done. Initially I just noticed that the boost was way down, I thought it was probably a blown hose, but when I popped the hood I noticed the coolant was black instead of red, then I noticed a bit of oil seepage between the head and the block, then I had my wife sit in the car and rev it bit and found that exhaust and boost are also escaping between the block and the gasket. Miraculously it doesn’t look like there is any coolant in the oil but jury is still out on that.

"Where did you get the parts?"

I bought a cheap gasket kit with bolts off of eBay. But the head gasket itself I bought from another reputable online dealer. (I hesitate to name names because this could have very well been user error.) It came in a VW box so I assume it was oem.
Maybe the cheap bolts are to blame?

"Blow the holes before assembly?"

I ran a tap down each hole to make sure there were not any buggered threads and then I did indeed blow the holes out before assembly.

There are a lot of sub standard torque to yield bolts out there. I think you found your problem. You're running 10 PSI more than stock boost. I would only use OE VW head bolts in this case.

If this happened to me I would probably buy the ARP's the second time around.

Thats funny I was just looking for some arp head studs.

I assume your buddy is skilled at skimming a TDI head.
I would check it again and make sure he didn't take off so much that the valves
are now out of spec for extending past the head. It's something like 1.0 mm.
You didn't deck the block so just match the factory gasket's # of holes.

No genuine ARP studs for PDs.

flee said:

I assume your buddy is skilled at skimming a TDI head.
I would check it again and make sure he didn't take off so much that the valves
are now out of spec for extending past the head. It's something like 1.0 mm.
You didn't deck the block so just match the factory gasket's # of holes.

Click to expand...

Thanks I'll check when I pull it apart again. I didn't even check when I assembled the head the first time. My buddy has been doing head work since he was 13 and hes in his 40's now. So I usually just take his word for when he tells me its good to go.
The original gasket was a 2 hole so Ill order another one. Is the factory gasket okay for a higher boost motor or should I be looking for something else?

Kerma has arp headstuds for the pd engine. They are pricey though

drexer13 said:

Thanks I'll check when I pull it apart again. I didn't even check when I assembled the head the first time. My buddy has been doing head work since he was 13 and hes in his 40's now. So I usually just take his word for when he tells me its good to go.

The original gasket was a 2 hole so Ill order another one. Is the factory gasket okay for a higher boost motor or should I be looking for something else?

Click to expand...

Make sure to post some pics of the pulled HG.


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ktmkris said:

Kerma has arp headstuds for the pd engine. They are pricey though

Click to expand...

Wow, those are spendy,
What about these from Whitbread Performance.

https://whitbreadperformance.com/co...brm-bhw-arp-head-stud-kit?variant=46561805386

when you put all the effort to put everything together on an engine the last thing I do is to go cheap on head gasket, used the old stretch bolt and so on, anything that requires more involvement of labor, I try to avoid taking apart long consuming hrs of work,,, you need to go with oem or any other good brand, and if Im changing and a head I buy the arp head bolts, head gasket oem, if the cthe only exception would be if the car is stock I would order oem streched head bolts.

First, Drexer13, excuse my 'inbox' becoming full. I have made the 'inbox' room.

You may contact me below, if you wish.

The #1 reason for a blown head gasket is a warped cylinder head. Although it's hard to measure, you can usually see the damage on the head gasket itself. There will be trails of soot, usually toward the manifold side of the head and most commonly, in cylinders 2 and 3.

The reason for the warp can often be pinned to overheat. Before you say, "It never overheated", you must realize what a liar the temperature gauge in your car is...

You cannot expect your temperature gauge to accurately show true engine temperature. I'd rather have an 'idiot light' that an 'idiot gauge'. The temp gauge, if measured by actual engine temp, either taken in the overflow tank or read on the temperature sensor will usually show the cluster gauge at 190 when the sensor shows 175f (roughly 80c). The gauge does not move until the engine's actual temperature is a minimum of 210f to 220f (100c-105c). Our melt-out plug we install on rebuilt heads melts at 230 degrees. When the overheat light goes off, it's really the 'you just warped your head' Light,as the overheat light usually goes off at 230f (110c).

The other issue, which is exacerbated by ARP studs, is that the block warps opposite of the head. The block will 'valley' with the low places being each point between the cylinders, or as we call them, the 'webs'. Striking a flat bastard file across the head will show if the block is flat. Or you can place a machinist's block across the webs and the bolts, front to back, and shine a light behind the machinist's block. If you see daylight, your block needs to be flattened. That is a bit of a trick in itself.

The reason we say ARP's increase the issue is the block, although it is cast iron, still will become 'plastic' and the line of bolts on either side of the pistons will literally 'pull' the metal high on the sides of the block. It is not a unique issue with VW, but seems to be quite common, especially with overheated cylinder heads.

So, we get asked what gauges you need in your modified engine... The temperature gauge is high on our list.

Also, check your thermostat. Every single thermostat we sell or install is checked in boiling water for opening and closing temp. Out of a dozen, we usually find 1-2 that we return to our supplier. They end up going to somebody else.

Please feel free to contact us.

Franko6 said:

............................ Out of a dozen, we usually find 1-2 that we return to our supplier. They end up going to somebody else.

Please feel free to contact us.

Click to expand...

ebay and amazon stock in trade.
Great post Frank, OP had the head trued up. so that narrows it down some.
It's nice when we get posts based on actual experience.

Hi Bob. Hope you are well. We do the best we can...

Realizing this is a PD... There are PD 150 head bolts, which in my opinion, are much cheaper and may be as effective as ARP's, given the engine's limitations. Some would say, well, the ARP's are reusable, but with the cost difference, how many times you expect to remove the cylinder head? 10x??

By the time you consider the cost and the purpose 1) ARP's are not a 'bandaid' to fix a warped block/ cylinder head. 2) By the time you have the physical need for the ARP's, and an engine hp that would require them, you are into a destructive, non-maintainable engine performance mode.

The single biggest issue can be duly noted by the 'bandaid' VW put into each PD cylinder head. There is a large potential for cracking in the injector bore against the intake seat. The more you stress it, the worse it gets. The crack is so well-known to VW that they made a 'bandaid' thickening in the middle of what should be a swirl chamber, at the point that the crack usually develops; in line with the intake seat/ injector port. This extra bulge is placed in the hopes to forestall any advancing crack into the injector port; some of which can advance all the way to the injector seat. So, for a stock engine, it generally seems to work, but the harder you push the engine, the more likely the crack. Crack to the injector seat or blown out under the intake valve seat...That makes for a ruined head.

My suggestion: Draw between the lines. A more conservative build that you can maintain will give you years of great economy and durability. Get a Scan Gauge or temp gauge. Figure ways to drop cylinder head temps. We make lcustom valve guides that are longer and close-fitting for better heat transfer. There are some other tricks, but that is a good one.

The BEW has historically shown to be very durable, where the BRM, which is very similar, but 10 more stock hp, have much quicker cam failure. It's all about stepping too close the cliff's edge.

For big horsepower, we like the Challenger, Mustang or anything with an LS engine in it.

Keep one car for big power... another as a gas-sipper. Know your limits.

Was the cooling system well bled on initial startup? Not that it overheated due to lack of coolant till the thermostat opened?

Thanks for posting here Frank, I appreciate your insight. I pm'd you before looking for some advice about what head bolts to buy. I know you sell reusable bolts for cam caps and such so I knew you would know what head bolts would be best. I'm intrigued with the PD 150 head bolts you mentioned above. Do they have the same torque specs?
The car doesn't have a factory boost gauge so I've been using my phone and the torgue app to monitor boost levels and engine temp. The temperature ranged between 180* and 215*.

Hopefully Ill have a chance to pull the head off tonight. Ill post pictures of the gasket After it comes off.

drexer13 said:

Hopefully Ill have a chance to pull the head off tonight. Ill post pictures of the gasket After it comes off.

Click to expand...

[emoji106]


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Anyone know the best place to get pd 150 bolts? Preferably a seller that is in the states.

I will have the head bolts this week. Been a lot to keep the order from happening, but we get them at a very good price.

So I finally got the head torn off and had a look at the gasket. The entire gasket was an oil soaked mess. I didn't see any obvious breaks or damage to the gasket so Im fairly confident it wasn't the problem. The head bolts on the other had are suspect. I remember when pulling off the first set I needed a breaker bar to get them loose, but this set came off fairly easily with a half inch wrench. The head is at the machinists (again) getting pressure tested and checked for flatness. I'll check the block again tonight.
Thanks for getting back to me Frank I appreciate it, but I already picked up a set of pd 150 bolts from Cascade and a Reinz head gasket from FCP. Hopefully the head comes back straight and I can get it back together.