Poor man's cam seal replacement

JettaTDIBlack

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2016
Location
Brandon, FL
TDI
2002 Jetta TDI Automatic Sedan
Is there a way to replace the cam seal without the cam lock and timing belt tools?

I don't know anyone locally that has the necessary tools and I have $1.50 to my name.

dubrs.com
 

Genesis

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 26, 2003
Location
Sevier County TN
TDI
'03 Jetta Wagon
Not without severe risk.

You have to remove the cam pulley. It's not keyed. There's no possible way to put it back on in the EXACT correct location without those tools.
 

[486]

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Location
MN
TDI
02 golf ALH
you don't need any actual tools to do the job, just set the injection pump by eye, set the flywheel on TDC and then to lock the camshaft take the valve cover, vacuum pump and the rear cam cap off. You'll notice that the slot in the cam is parallel to the top of the cylinder head. My cam lock is a piece of 3/16" flat bar stock, but I have used a flat file or the shank of a screwdriver in the past. Just anything that fits in there snug and is flat.

Use a vise grip on the camshaft between the lobes to counterhold while torquing the cam pulley back on.
 

Genesis

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 26, 2003
Location
Sevier County TN
TDI
'03 Jetta Wagon
Please don't do that.

If you don't have the tools and can't find someone with them then:

1. A drill bit will work for the pump lock.

2. The crank doesn't have to be locked (although a flat screwdriver jammed in the bellhousing against the flywheel works quite well), but you DO have to make sure the engine is at TDC both when you take it apart and when you're done, BEFORE you rotate the engine.

3. You DO need to pop the cam sprocket off, and you NEED a gear puller or similar to do it. A tool made for that is better, but a gear puller will work IF you're careful and use it near the hub. Autozone loans them.

4. You DO need to relieve the tension on the belt at the tensioner and you DO need a means to rotate the tensioner (e.g. a pin-spanner tool or similar) to re-set it once the cam sprocket is back on. You also need to loosen the three IP bolts so when you reset the tensioner you do not side-load the belt's nubs on either the cam or IP sprocket. That's IMPORTANT.

5. As noted anything flat that will fit will work for the cam lock BUT it's VERY IMPORTANT that the slot be EXACTLY true to the flats on the head and it's also VERY important that whatever you use is NOT used for a counterhold -- you WILL break the tail end of the cam. The error margin on the crank and cam is SEVEN DEGREES of crank rotation. More than that and you hit valves, but MUCH less than that and you will have performance problems. You only have a ~1-2 degree window before things go downhill in terms of how the engine runs; it's that tight.

You can counterhold the sprocket on its webs when re-torquing the bolt with vice-grips or similar -- the torque spec is NOT very high. The nose of the cam and the sprocket MUST BE COMPLETELY CLEAN AND FREE OF OIL AND CONTAMINANTS when you put it back together. If they're not the sprocket can slip down the road and over-torquing the bolt can break the nose. Clean the taper on both sprocket and cam nose REAL WELL. Note that for this specific bolt (and the cam cap, if you remove it to do the seal) it's VERY IMPORTANT that you use a torque wrench. That's NOT optional.

Hint: It's MUCH easier to replace the seal if you unbolt the front cam journal cap. You're welcome.
 

JettaTDIBlack

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2016
Location
Brandon, FL
TDI
2002 Jetta TDI Automatic Sedan
Please don't do that.

If you don't have the tools and can't find someone with them then:

1. A drill bit will work for the pump lock.

2. The crank doesn't have to be locked (although a flat screwdriver jammed in the bellhousing against the flywheel works quite well), but you DO have to make sure the engine is at TDC both when you take it apart and when you're done, BEFORE you rotate the engine.

3. You DO need to pop the cam sprocket off, and you NEED a gear puller or similar to do it. A tool made for that is better, but a gear puller will work IF you're careful and use it near the hub. Autozone loans them.

4. You DO need to relieve the tension on the belt at the tensioner and you DO need a means to rotate the tensioner (e.g. a pin-spanner tool or similar) to re-set it once the cam sprocket is back on. You also need to loosen the three IP bolts so when you reset the tensioner you do not side-load the belt's nubs on either the cam or IP sprocket. That's IMPORTANT.

5. As noted anything flat that will fit will work for the cam lock BUT it's VERY IMPORTANT that the slot be EXACTLY true to the flats on the head and it's also VERY important that whatever you use is NOT used for a counterhold -- you WILL break the tail end of the cam. The error margin on the crank and cam is SEVEN DEGREES of crank rotation. More than that and you hit valves, but MUCH less than that and you will have performance problems. You only have a ~1-2 degree window before things go downhill in terms of how the engine runs; it's that tight.

You can counterhold the sprocket on its webs when re-torquing the bolt with vice-grips or similar -- the torque spec is NOT very high. The nose of the cam and the sprocket MUST BE COMPLETELY CLEAN AND FREE OF OIL AND CONTAMINANTS when you put it back together. If they're not the sprocket can slip down the road and over-torquing the bolt can break the nose. Clean the taper on both sprocket and cam nose REAL WELL. Note that for this specific bolt (and the cam cap, if you remove it to do the seal) it's VERY IMPORTANT that you use a torque wrench. That's NOT optional.

Hint: It's MUCH easier to replace the seal if you unbolt the front cam journal cap. You're welcome.
Hi Genesis, which post are you telling me not to do?

dubrs.com
 

Nero Morg

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 19, 2017
Location
OR
TDI
2014 A6 TDI, 2001 Jetta TDI, 2014 Passat TDI
I think he's referring to the vice grip trick. I've done it, but I still wouldn't recommend it.
 

JettaTDIBlack

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2016
Location
Brandon, FL
TDI
2002 Jetta TDI Automatic Sedan
Just want to make sure that we're all on the same page. It looks to me like there is a small oil leak coming from behind here.


dubrs.com
 

Genesis

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Feb 26, 2003
Location
Sevier County TN
TDI
'03 Jetta Wagon
I'm saying don't do things by eye. There's no need to; the pump lock is easily improvised with the shank end of a drill bit.

You can't "pry" the cam pulley off without risking breaking the web. The "real deal" tool goes over the webs on the cam pulley but a gear puller will do the job IF you're careful with it (don't try to use the outside; you risk damaging or even breaking the pulley. Put the jaws on the webs.) You CAN try to pop it off with a punch or similar from the rear but I'd use a gear puller instead since they're easily borrowed from the auto-parts places. Loosen but DO NOT REMOVE the cam bolt; don't try to use a puller on the nose of the cam, use it against the bolt head.

The crank position is easy since you can see the TDC mark and a screwdriver jammed in the bellhousing will lock it. The tricky part, without the proper tools, is the cam. In addition to the slot having to be EXACTLY aligned with the cylinder head when you put it back together (1) you CANNOT use that slot to counterhold or the odds of breaking the rear of the cam are VERY high and (2) you do not want to counterhold the cam anyway, you want to counterhold the *pulley* or you risk the pulley moving on you while you're torquing it and then you get to start over or worse, you have the alignment off and when you check it won't line up.

Oh, by the way, there's another gotcha -- if you don't replace the vacuum pump seal whenever that thing is removed it will probably leak oil a bit. They're notorious for doing that if the seal is re-used and you have to get the head and groove scrupulously clean before putting the pump back on (or it leaks) as well. That's not a catastrophic problem but it's quite annoying if it starts leaking.

The other trick is that when you have the cam pulley off you'll find it quite hard to get it back on with the belt; the pulley will not want to go over the nose of the cam. The easy way to cheat is to remove the *top* roller. Put the pulley and belt back on and then before you torque the cam pulley bolt or set the tensioner put the roller back in.

It's pretty easy to make a cam sprocket counter-hold tool from a couple pieces of flat aluminum stock (or even a couple pieces of flat wood stock), bolts, nuts and washers. IMHO it's worth doing although if you can find a wrench (e.g. a small pipe wrench, etc.) that will get good purchase on the sprocket web down near the hub that would probably work too. The torque you're counter-holding against is not very high.

There's one -- and only one -- correct way to set everything. This is it:

1. Cam at TDC (Cyl 1 lobes up, slot EXACTLY parallel and locked); Crank at TDC, pump hub pinned, three bolts on IP sprocket loose but inserted. Cam nose and sprocket are clean and dry -- VERY IMPORTANT -- and sprocket and belt are back on and the roller (if you removed it) back on as well.

2. With CRANK LOCKED (screwdriver jammed in bellhousing is fine), IP pinned but sprocket bolts loose and cam sprocket on but bolt NOT torqued (just screwed in with your fingers) set the tensioner. Snap ring pliers work for this if you don't have the tool. Tighten the tensioner bolt. You will see the cam sprocket and IP sprocket move slightly when you tension the belt. That is what you want to see; it makes sure there is no side-load on the belt nubs since there is only ONE fixed reference (the crank pulley.)

3. Counterhold the cam SPROCKET (NOT the cam) and torque the cam bolt. I REMOVE the cam lock when doing this (if you screw up and torque the lock you will break the rear of the cam.) Put the lock back in -- it should go back in. If it doesn't you screwed up and moved it.

4. Torque the 3 IP bolts.

5. Re-check crank TDC. It should still be bang-on; you now have all three set properly.

6. Remove cam lock, IP pin and screwdriver in bellhousing.

6. Bar the engine over TWO FULL REVOLUTIONS by hand in the direction of rotation from the CRANK bolt (NOT the cam) and make sure you feel nothing but compression resistance. Return to crank TDC. The cam lock and IP pin MUST go back in. If the IP pin does not it's not the end of the world as long as it's close (it LOOKS like it should go in with an inspection mirror, but doesn't), but if the cam lock doesn't go back in then you screwed up -- go back and do it over. Check the tensioner; the pin should still be aligned with the slot.

If everything lines up EXACTLY you not only did it right but odds are good your static timing, when checked with VCDS, will be dead-balls on the centerline.
 
Last edited:

[486]

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 1, 2014
Location
MN
TDI
02 golf ALH
1. A drill bit will work for the pump lock..
it is very hard to get the IP off by 1 tooth, there is no need at all to lock the injection pump
you should adjust the timing eventually even if you do use the lock tool

3. You DO need to pop the cam sprocket off, and you NEED a gear puller or similar to do it. A tool made for that is better, but a gear puller will work IF you're careful and use it near the hub. Autozone loans them..
hammer and punch from valve cover side, give the hub a good hard rap and it pops loose from the cam
Some people drill a hole in the plastic to use a round punch, I just take the two bolts out of the timing cover and use a chisel that fits down in there well enough
4. You DO need to relieve the tension on the belt at the tensioner and you DO need a means to rotate the tensioner (e.g. a pin-spanner tool or similar) to re-set it once the cam sprocket is back on.
90 degree snap ring pliers
 

WildChild80

Veteran Member
Joined
May 30, 2016
Location
Nashville, AR
TDI
2001 Jetta TDI 2000 Jetta TDI 2000 New Beetle TDI ALL 5 speeds
The hammer and punch are probably the safest bet without a good puller and I bought some snap ring pliers just for the tensioner. I found that our when I couldn't use my tensioner tool with the motor mount bracket bolted up...also used channel locks with the nut slightly tight but wouldn't suggest that at all

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

WildChild80

Veteran Member
Joined
May 30, 2016
Location
Nashville, AR
TDI
2001 Jetta TDI 2000 Jetta TDI 2000 New Beetle TDI ALL 5 speeds
There's a few videos out there on alternative tools to change a timing belt but proper tools are hard to beat, when I bought my first TDI, I could afford some of the proper tools and vcds, now I'm making a quarter of what I used to make, tools are an investment

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

Windex

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Location
Cambridge
TDI
05 B5V 01E FRF
I made my cam lock tool out of $.15 worth of steel angle iron.

I believe that is within your budget?
 

jmodge

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Location
Greenville, MI
TDI
2001 alh Jetta, RC2 w/.205's 5speed daily summer commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/.216's winter cruiser, 1996 Tacoma ALh
I believe "486" meant 5/16" metal for the cam lock tool. If you use a punch to remove the pulley make sure you hit it in the center of the spoke base as close to the hub of the sprocket you can. You can melt a small hole in the plastic inner cover and plug it later with a hole plug from the CAM SIDE. There are drawings online for DYI tools for this also.
 

leafs

Veteran Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Location
canada
TDI
alh
for the timing belt tensioner tool you can use a piece of appropriate size flat metal. couple of drill holes of correct width, couple of approprate size machine screws and accompanying washer and nuts, bada boom bada bing you got a ghetto timing belt tensioner tool.
 

jmodge

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Location
Greenville, MI
TDI
2001 alh Jetta, RC2 w/.205's 5speed daily summer commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/.216's winter cruiser, 1996 Tacoma ALh
no, the slot in the cam is 8mm, but it is bisected by the top of the head, thus 3/16"
Your right, about .010 under. An "A" drill locks the pump, and pins for the cam tensioner are 1/8"dia at 23/32" spacing. I welded drill bits on an open end wrench.

About 5 years ago I found a print someone posted on the internet and made tools from it. I looked but could not find it again
 

JettaTDIBlack

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2016
Location
Brandon, FL
TDI
2002 Jetta TDI Automatic Sedan
Is the camshaft bolt, a regular or stretch bolt?

Also, I was thinking my universal steering wheel puller could be used to pull the camshaft pulley?

dubrs.com
 

leafs

Veteran Member
Joined
May 28, 2018
Location
canada
TDI
alh
Is the camshaft bolt, a regular or stretch bolt?

Also, I was thinking my universal steering wheel puller could be used to pull the camshaft pulley?

dubrs.com
re-use cam bolt and I think it's easier to drill a small hole in the t-belt cover and giving it one good wack with a hammer and punch to remove the cam sprocket. I had to go in multiple times lol so yeah that was the easiest way to knock off the sprocket... comes off easily.
 
Last edited:

JettaTDIBlack

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2016
Location
Brandon, FL
TDI
2002 Jetta TDI Automatic Sedan
Is the seal the front one near the camshaft sprocket? I only ask because there are two seals listed. Part number 038103085E and 038103085C.

dubrs.com
 

WildChild80

Veteran Member
Joined
May 30, 2016
Location
Nashville, AR
TDI
2001 Jetta TDI 2000 Jetta TDI 2000 New Beetle TDI ALL 5 speeds
I found a puller on Amazon, 2, 3 or 4 jaw puller, they slide on to the screw jack, works great...I'll see if I can find it

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

WildChild80

Veteran Member
Joined
May 30, 2016
Location
Nashville, AR
TDI
2001 Jetta TDI 2000 Jetta TDI 2000 New Beetle TDI ALL 5 speeds
I tried the one from harbor freight and there's not enough shoulder to grab, if the jaws were twisted it'd work

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

JettaTDIBlack

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2016
Location
Brandon, FL
TDI
2002 Jetta TDI Automatic Sedan
Just want to make sure that we're all on the same page. It looks to me like there is a small oil leak coming from behind here.



Could an improperly sealed oil pan have enough oil pressure to spray the oil this high? Also there is a large puddle of oil on the right side of the pan (and where the belt and the two seals are) on the ground.
 

WildChild80

Veteran Member
Joined
May 30, 2016
Location
Nashville, AR
TDI
2001 Jetta TDI 2000 Jetta TDI 2000 New Beetle TDI ALL 5 speeds
Could be cam or crank seal...hope for the first option...crank seal is a super pita

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

JettaTDIBlack

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2016
Location
Brandon, FL
TDI
2002 Jetta TDI Automatic Sedan
Could be cam or crank seal...hope for the first option...crank seal is a super pita

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
So, no chance of the oil pan not being sealed properly on that side? There seems to be a lot of oil on the floor of my garage.

Sent from my LGMP260 using Tapatalk
 

WildChild80

Veteran Member
Joined
May 30, 2016
Location
Nashville, AR
TDI
2001 Jetta TDI 2000 Jetta TDI 2000 New Beetle TDI ALL 5 speeds
I wouldn't think it very likely that a leaking pan would show oil up that high and on the inside of the cover

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 
Top