I'm saying don't do things by eye. There's no need to; the pump lock is easily improvised with the shank end of a drill bit.
You can't "pry" the cam pulley off without risking breaking the web. The "real deal" tool goes over the webs on the cam pulley but a gear puller will do the job IF you're careful with it (don't try to use the outside; you risk damaging or even breaking the pulley. Put the jaws on the webs.) You CAN try to pop it off with a punch or similar from the rear but I'd use a gear puller instead since they're easily borrowed from the auto-parts places. Loosen but DO NOT REMOVE the cam bolt; don't try to use a puller on the nose of the cam, use it against the bolt head.
The crank position is easy since you can see the TDC mark and a screwdriver jammed in the bellhousing will lock it. The tricky part, without the proper tools, is the cam. In addition to the slot having to be EXACTLY aligned with the cylinder head when you put it back together (1) you CANNOT use that slot to counterhold or the odds of breaking the rear of the cam are VERY high and (2) you do not want to counterhold the cam anyway, you want to counterhold the *pulley* or you risk the pulley moving on you while you're torquing it and then you get to start over or worse, you have the alignment off and when you check it won't line up.
Oh, by the way, there's another gotcha -- if you don't replace the vacuum pump seal whenever that thing is removed it will probably leak oil a bit. They're notorious for doing that if the seal is re-used and you have to get the head and groove scrupulously clean before putting the pump back on (or it leaks) as well. That's not a catastrophic problem but it's quite annoying if it starts leaking.
The other trick is that when you have the cam pulley off you'll find it quite hard to get it back on with the belt; the pulley will not want to go over the nose of the cam. The easy way to cheat is to remove the *top* roller. Put the pulley and belt back on and then before you torque the cam pulley bolt or set the tensioner put the roller back in.
It's pretty easy to make a cam sprocket counter-hold tool from a couple pieces of flat aluminum stock (or even a couple pieces of flat wood stock), bolts, nuts and washers. IMHO it's worth doing although if you can find a wrench (e.g. a small pipe wrench, etc.) that will get good purchase on the sprocket web down near the hub that would probably work too. The torque you're counter-holding against is not very high.
There's one -- and only one -- correct way to set everything. This is it:
1. Cam at TDC (Cyl 1 lobes up, slot EXACTLY parallel and locked); Crank at TDC, pump hub pinned, three bolts on IP sprocket loose but inserted. Cam nose and sprocket are clean and dry -- VERY IMPORTANT -- and sprocket and belt are back on and the roller (if you removed it) back on as well.
2. With CRANK LOCKED (screwdriver jammed in bellhousing is fine), IP pinned but sprocket bolts loose and cam sprocket on but bolt NOT torqued (just screwed in with your fingers) set the tensioner. Snap ring pliers work for this if you don't have the tool. Tighten the tensioner bolt. You will see the cam sprocket and IP sprocket move slightly when you tension the belt. That is what you want to see; it makes sure there is no side-load on the belt nubs since there is only ONE fixed reference (the crank pulley.)
3. Counterhold the cam SPROCKET (NOT the cam) and torque the cam bolt. I REMOVE the cam lock when doing this (if you screw up and torque the lock you will break the rear of the cam.) Put the lock back in -- it should go back in. If it doesn't you screwed up and moved it.
4. Torque the 3 IP bolts.
5. Re-check crank TDC. It should still be bang-on; you now have all three set properly.
6. Remove cam lock, IP pin and screwdriver in bellhousing.
6. Bar the engine over TWO FULL REVOLUTIONS by hand in the direction of rotation from the CRANK bolt (NOT the cam) and make sure you feel nothing but compression resistance. Return to crank TDC. The cam lock and IP pin MUST go back in. If the IP pin does not it's not the end of the world as long as it's close (it LOOKS like it should go in with an inspection mirror, but doesn't), but if the cam lock doesn't go back in then you screwed up -- go back and do it over. Check the tensioner; the pin should still be aligned with the slot.
If everything lines up EXACTLY you not only did it right but odds are good your static timing, when checked with VCDS, will be dead-balls on the centerline.