Nero Morg
Top Post Dawg
He's probably not in at the moment lol but if you're looking for a bit more go juice, you'd probably be happy with DLC520's and either a stage 1 or 2 tune.
Nozzle and clutch upgrade: need guidance
- Thread starter BakoTDI
- Start date
BakoTDI
Veteran Member
Their kit comes with .230s
Stage 4 Malone
VNT17 or Borgwarner upgrade
And VR6 clutch kit
3-bar map sensor
Kyle at Malone mentioned that it’s all in the tuning. Don’t really need to be at 150HP! Just want my car to feel like it should again. I am waiting for my VAG-COM cable to come in this week. Any particular things I should look at before even jumping the gun on these upgrades!?!!
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Rrusse11
Veteran Member
It's a simple equation, more fuel=more performance, all things being
equal. There's no free lunch!
Depends on what you're after, and budget.
Then there's the factors of your right foot and conditions you drive in,
and the individual car you have, they are different.
Want 50+mpg?, drive like a little old lady and keep it stock, a basic
tune may improve efficiency.
Personally I've sacrificed FE for performance, I can give GTIs a run for
their money, for about half the fuel costs. What's not to like? {;o)
equal. There's no free lunch!
Depends on what you're after, and budget.
Then there's the factors of your right foot and conditions you drive in,
and the individual car you have, they are different.
Want 50+mpg?, drive like a little old lady and keep it stock, a basic
tune may improve efficiency.
Personally I've sacrificed FE for performance, I can give GTIs a run for
their money, for about half the fuel costs. What's not to like? {;o)
IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Well, sort of. My Wagon currently makes about 140/260 at the wheels. Took a road trip this weekend with snows on, running at 78-80 most of the time. Ran through two full tanks of fuel and got 47.15. Not terrible this time of year (temps between 5 and 25F). In Summer I'd see right around 50. Improved timing and breathing can help minimize the impact of more fueling.
IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
Those are all highway. Here's a tank from a couple weeks ago with commuting, some traffic, fair amount of low speed suburban driving:
That one was 47.2.
I forgot a tank from the weekend. Average was actually 46 even. I had one bad tank driving 80 MPH into 30 MPH headwinds. And driving around downtown Madison WI in the snow. That tank was right around 44.
That one was 47.2.
I forgot a tank from the weekend. Average was actually 46 even. I had one bad tank driving 80 MPH into 30 MPH headwinds. And driving around downtown Madison WI in the snow. That tank was right around 44.
Rrusse11
Veteran Member
I get 35mpg drivin' like a cabbie. (Which I did for years, {
))40ish hwy. Butt dyno says in the neighborhood of 165/260.
"Improved timin" IBW
So where are you on the "dynamic timing graph"?
I've been wondering about adjusting mine, currently about
halfway between the blue and top limit line, 58.
And what about the SOI reading?
Cheers!
IndigoBlueWagon
TDIClub Enthusiast, Principal IDParts, Vendor , w/
This isn't timing in the graph, at idle. I'm talking about timing advance written into the tune. Think of tuning as having three components, fuel, boost and timing. You can increase fuel and boost, and advance timing to lengthen combustion time. Jeff (RC) usually adjusts timing in VCDS to coordinate with the tune, but I honestly don't know what he does there. Since I'm not going to change what he chooses I don't pay attention.
I always have my timing at idle set at 65-70, or right near the top of the graph. Although that is only really valid until 1600 RPM. More revs than that and the timing is controlled by the ECU. Setting it high at idle helps starting but also ensures that the full range of pump timing is available to the ECU.
I always have my timing at idle set at 65-70, or right near the top of the graph. Although that is only really valid until 1600 RPM. More revs than that and the timing is controlled by the ECU. Setting it high at idle helps starting but also ensures that the full range of pump timing is available to the ECU.
Rrusse11
Veteran Member
IBW,
Mine's starting so nice at the moment, I'm loathe to touch it.
Jeff has let slip a couple of tips on his tunes, it's hard to get him loquacious, but I'm not cognizant enough to understand the finer
points he's passing on. He did allow that it's all adaptive according
to conditions and revs. The deeper I get the more I can appreciate
how complicated a good tune is. Dropped the IQ half a point this afternoon, no smoke, noticeable performance bump.
We discussed my rear end, and how good the beam is for towing vs
the independent rear suspension. I've been amazed how solid the car is with the camper.
I do feel that the EGR delete and catch can are having an affect on
keeping the turbo cleaner. Upping the rear brakes to 256x22 rotors
should help reining her in, and more braking for towing.
All good fun.
Mine's starting so nice at the moment, I'm loathe to touch it.
Jeff has let slip a couple of tips on his tunes, it's hard to get him loquacious, but I'm not cognizant enough to understand the finer
points he's passing on. He did allow that it's all adaptive according
to conditions and revs. The deeper I get the more I can appreciate
how complicated a good tune is. Dropped the IQ half a point this afternoon, no smoke, noticeable performance bump.
We discussed my rear end, and how good the beam is for towing vs
the independent rear suspension. I've been amazed how solid the car is with the camper.
I do feel that the EGR delete and catch can are having an affect on
keeping the turbo cleaner. Upping the rear brakes to 256x22 rotors
should help reining her in, and more braking for towing.
All good fun.