BEW Turbo Actuator Replacement Found and Installed!

kballtdi

Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2010
Location
Plymouth, MA
TDI
2000 G, 2003 NB, 2004 JW, 2010 JSW, 2015 GSW
Hi There,

I have a success story that I hope will offer some relief to all of the folks out there that have a VW with a BEW TDI motor. If someone else has already come up with this solution, please add this as another data point. I spent weeks searching forums for solutions and came up with only one answer: replace the turbo.

This can also be found here:
http://www.myturbodiesel.com/forum/f5/2004-bew-limp-mode-boost-issue-6175/

Sorry for cross posting but it is not clear how many people frequent both sites. I also can't seem figure out how to post a picture on this forum without accessing an external photo hosting site. Pictures can be found at the link above.

Summary:

I was able to successfully replace the stock turbo vacuum actuator for the Borg Warner KP39 turbocharger (standard equipment on the BEW motor) with a Garret Smart Actuator (typically found on Garret VNT17 replacement turbochargers). The Garret Smart Actuator has the same stroke and sensor output as the Borg Warner unit since the VNT17 is meant to be a bolt on replacement for the KP39.

The Details:

1. Garret Smart Actuators can be found at the usual places (i.e. idparts, kermatdi etc.) for ~$120.
2. The Garret unit mounts with (2) M6x1 studs to a mounting plate.
3. The Garret unit uses a ball and socket mechanism to attach to the vane lever on the VNT17. This can be removed and an extension rod can be fabricated to attach to the Borg Warner vane lever.

The Solution:

1. The key to making this swap is getting the (2) bolts that hold the actuator bracket onto the turbo housing out. If you break them you will either need to come up with a clever mounting bracket to mount the actuator to the exhaust down pipe studs or remove and disassemble the turbo. There is not enough clearance (i.e. a straight drill path) to drill and tap the holes. Use lots of penetrating oil and be patient. It does not take a lot of force to snap an M6 bolt. I know this from experience.
2. Once the (2) bolts are removed, remove the 10mm nut on the top of the actuator rod.
3. Remove the actuator/actuator bracket assembly from the car.
4. The actuator is tack welded in (4) holes located on tom of the actuator. Drill these out. Gently use a small chisel to separate the bracket from the actuator body. To drill out the welds I had to bend the actuator rod out of the way.
5. The bracket is made of (2) pieces (the actual bracket that holds the actuator and heat shield) that are riveted together. To make machining easier drill out the rivets to separate the bracket pieces.
6. Drill (2) 0.25" holes in the actuator bracket with a center to center spacing of 1.3". These holes will most likely run into the existing holes. The center line between these holes should be parallel with the flange on the bracket such that when the actuator is attached the connector and vacuum port points towards to passenger side of the car.
7. Drill and tap the rivet holes for a 10-32 screw.
8. Mount the Garret actuator the actuator bracket using (2) M6x1 flanged nuts.
9. Reattach the heat shield to the actuator bracket using a couple 10-32 screws and lock washers.
10. Install rod extension onto Garret actuator rod.
11. Install M6x1 nut on actuator rod (lower stop nut).
12. Reinstall actuator assembly in car.
13. Draw a vacuum of 20in on the actuator.
14. Adjust the nuts on the actuator rod such that the vane lever is at the mechanical stop at 20in vacuum.
15. Install M6x1 nut on top of actuator lever (upper stop nut).
16. Verify that movement of lever starts at 3-5in and stops at 20in. This took me a couple times to get right.
17. Reattach vacuum line from N75 and position sensor connector.
17. Hook up VCDS and go for a test drive.
18. From Bentley you need the car to be at operating temperature and under load. A good long hill lugging in 4th gear at 1500 RPM make for a good plot.
19 Go to measuring block 11 and use the VC Scope to plot the RPM, specified Boost and Actual boost. These should closely match as detailed in the 1000q testing section. Testing with no load will not produce obvious results. You must be under load. Overshoots and undershoots are expected but in general they should track with each other.

Conclusion:

If I may rant for a moment... Although I can sort of understand why making someone replace an entire good turbo ($1000) just because the actuator ($120) is bad (and are known far and wide to go bad) is a lucrative business for the turbo manufacturer, it is a poor design decision which may result is many customers moving to a different brand. I am very disappointed that VW let this one slip by.

What would this cost the average person: $1000+ for parts and $1000+ for labor? $2000+ Really?? Simply unacceptable. I solved the problem for $120 and a day in the shop.

Please see that attached picture of the retrofitted assembly. If enough people are interested I was thinking of making a bunch of actuator extension rods, putting together a hardware kit and maybe some more detailed instructions (i.e. with pictures etc). I probably could put it all together for maybe $20-$25 a kit.

Let me know if you would be interested.

Keenan
 

cevans

TDIClub Enthusiast, TDI Parts Ninja Vendor , w/Bus
Joined
Sep 24, 2002
Location
Hingham, MA
TDI
2015 Beetle Conv. TDI 6-Speed & 2006 E320 CDI
Wow, nice work.

This fix is very labor intensive - I don't understand the decision to rivet the bracket on there. Post some photos - I wonder if a bracket could be made up for the Garret Actuator.

The bracket itself isn't riveted onto the turbo at all is it?
 

kballtdi

Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2010
Location
Plymouth, MA
TDI
2000 G, 2003 NB, 2004 JW, 2010 JSW, 2015 GSW
The stock bracket is (2) pieces rivet together. Borg Warner's decision not mine. The stock bracket is bolted with (2) M6 bolts to the turbo housing. The stock actuator is welded in (4) places to the stock bracket.

As stated above I drilled out the welds to remove the old actuator, then drilled holes in the bracket to accept the Garret actuator.

To easily drill the holes to mount the Garret it is necessary to drill out the rivets and separate the (2) bracket parts. I suppose if you had a very long drill bit you could skip the drilling of the rivets. Another issue is that the diameter of the Garret unit is larger than the Borg. I was initially concerned that I wouldn't be able to fit the Garret on the bracket with the heatshield installed. Hence the drilling of the rivets began.

Overall not very labor intensive. Remove some bolts, drill some holes and rivets, fabricate an extender rod (or buy one), then reassemble. It sounds worse than it really is.

I would post more photos here if I didn't have to upload the pictures to a third party site. If there is another way to do it I would be grateful to learn.
 

kballtdi

Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2010
Location
Plymouth, MA
TDI
2000 G, 2003 NB, 2004 JW, 2010 JSW, 2015 GSW
.... Yes. If a supplier (like idparts...hint hint since I just bought the actuator from idparts) were to sell a kit to replace the Borg Warner actuator with the Garret actuator the best method would be to sell the following:

(1) Garret Smart Actuator
(1) Replacement bracket (with or without heat shield).
(1) Actuator extender rod
(1) M6 nuts (to replace nuts on actuator rod)
(2) M6 bolts (to replace bolts that mount unit to turbo housing)
(1) set of instructions.
(2m) of 5mm vacuum line (as a bonus)

Since this kit didn't exist anywhere as such (though new turbo assemblies can be had everywhere for $1000), my solution was to use what was there. I had considered fabricating a bracket. However, what is there as stock a can be modified with a little extra work. Making a custom bracket would have definitely been more labor intensive.

So does idparts want to distribute the actuator rod? I can have as many made as needed. Just say the word.
 

cevans

TDIClub Enthusiast, TDI Parts Ninja Vendor , w/Bus
Joined
Sep 24, 2002
Location
Hingham, MA
TDI
2015 Beetle Conv. TDI 6-Speed & 2006 E320 CDI
.... Yes. If a supplier (like idparts...hint hint since I just bought the actuator from idparts) were to sell a kit to replace the Borg Warner actuator with the Garret actuator the best method would be to sell the following:

(1) Garret Smart Actuator
(1) Replacement bracket (with or without heat shield).
(1) Actuator extender rod
(1) M6 nuts (to replace nuts on actuator rod)
(2) M6 bolts (to replace bolts that mount unit to turbo housing)
(1) set of instructions.
(2m) of 5mm vacuum line (as a bonus)

Since this kit didn't exist anywhere as such (though new turbo assemblies can be had everywhere for $1000), my solution was to use what was there. I had considered fabricating a bracket. However, what is there as stock a can be modified with a little extra work. Making a custom bracket would have definitely been more labor intensive.

So does idparts want to distribute the actuator rod? I can have as many made as needed. Just say the word.
Haha, I wasn't suggesting the riveting was your idea! Trying to agree with your assessment of BW's decisions...I could have phrased that more clearly.

I'll need to get my hands on a bracket first thing - I don't have a blown OE BEW turbo here to take one off of. Then I can see we can fabricate one ourselves.

Extender and nuts aren't a problem.
 

Dimitri16V

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 30, 2005
Location
DE
TDI
01 Golf, 04 Golf
use a 12 point round 10mm key on that nut , anything else will strip it or snap it

the borgwarner turbo actuator is made by Tyco , i am sure it can be sourced individiually but only in big orders
 
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kballtdi

Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2010
Location
Plymouth, MA
TDI
2000 G, 2003 NB, 2004 JW, 2010 JSW, 2015 GSW
Dimitri16V: Actually, it is worth the small investment to get a 6 point 10mm box end wrench. That is what I used since I feared the 12 point would round the bolt. There really is no messing around with those two bolts. If the break the only way to repair is to disassemble the turbo or fabricate a bracket that mounts elsewhere.

dunerking: count is up to (2). Put a miti-vac on the actuator and observe when the movement starts (5in), stops, (20in), and if it holds pressure.
 

Jetta4Jeff

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 16, 2005
Location
Village of Arizona, Manitoba, Canada
TDI
'04 Jetta PD M5
Is this kit a reality yet? My car is always going into 'limp mode' and throwing a P2564 code at start-up. My mechanic (steelbro) and I are looking at replacing the KP-39 with a VNT-17. This 'kit' would be a money saver as I don't think replacing a good turbo is a good idea.
 
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xlch1920

New member
Joined
Mar 12, 2010
Location
Philadelphia
TDI
04 Golf
Thanks kballtdi for a well documented and well written set of repair / conversion instructions.
I just did this conversion after having the second Turbo Failure on my 2004 Mk4. Actually this is the second VNT Actuator failure. I could not understand why the failure appeared intermittent this time until I cut one of the actuators apart. It would appear that the rubberized fabric deteriorates. It also appears that the rust that builds up in the actuator crumbles and fills the cracks in the diaphragm, slowing down the vacuum leakage. There is my intermittent failure. I might mention that Id Parts is not my favorite source. I ordered a smart Garrett actuator, but they sent a standard Garrett actuator. You would think that they could overnight one for the inconvenience but no. I really didn’t like their indifferent attitude and questioning my use of the part. This added to my frustration on any levels.
 

Sharmon

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2011
Location
Canada
TDI
2004 NB 1.9 TDI
I successfully removed the actuator and bracket , is there a way to see if the vanes are stuck ? The connector has about 3/8" travel in it. I don't want to go though the expense and effort to have the turbo itself the problem.

Thank you for any help.
 

pedroYUL

Veteran Member
Joined
Sep 8, 2011
Location
MI, USA
TDI
2015 Passat CVCA; 2015 GSW CRUA; 2012 wagon CJAA; 2004 wagon BEW
Yep the vanes connector doesn't move that much at all
 

Sharmon

Member
Joined
Jun 14, 2011
Location
Canada
TDI
2004 NB 1.9 TDI
I just ordered the Garret Smart Actuator from Kermit and I will be sure to post a follow up as soon as I install it , thanks for the fast reply @Pedro :) $234 plus $46 2 day Fedex was the cost The fun part is going to be drilling out the holes for the new actuator. There is still a piece of rotten old actuator riveted on the bracket and the pins are hard as glass.
 
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piotrush

Member
Joined
Aug 21, 2013
Location
CT
TDI
2004 Jetta Wagon
I think I'm finding myself in a similar situation. Can we get an update from the OP on how this fix is holding up after 2 years?

Peter
 

kballtdi

Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2010
Location
Plymouth, MA
TDI
2000 G, 2003 NB, 2004 JW, 2010 JSW, 2015 GSW
We are still going strong with the actuator replacement on our 04 Jetta wagon. Glad to hear this solution helped some folks.
 

tongsli

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jan 31, 2000
Location
Baltimore, MD
TDI
2000 Jetta TDI, 2004, Jetta Wagon TDI PD
I removed the threaded adjustment knob from the "dumb-style" actuator


Lock nut and JB Weld


Ready for the extension. I used every bit of the OEM threaded rod.


Ready for install I'm not sure I need the lock nuts but added them just in case.


I removed the heat shield in order to cut the old actuator. Here's what it looked like inside


I drilled the OEM bracket for the new studs on the new actuator, reattached the heat shield and installed in the car. Hopefully, this will last for the life of this turbo.

It's so nice to have boost again, life is good
 
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acestor

Active member
Joined
May 27, 2008
Location
Lincoln, VT
TDI
2005 Jetta Wagon
Metric coupler nuts hard to find

After driving around for a day visiting area hardware stores, I gave up trying to find a metric coupler nut, and decided to see about improvising. I ended up taking the same route as tongsli, and freed the thumb adjuster from the Garrett rod attachment piece (the part with the ball socket on the end that came with the new actuator I bought). Once removed, this was exactly what I needed. Since I also had a hard time finding metric threaded rod, I just cut the old rod off the old actuator.

I'm thinking that threadlocker should be sufficient to keep the coupler from spinning apart, particularly since that seems to be what was used at the factory for securing the adjustment nuts to the rod.

The old actuator was decidedly rotten... it just about crumbled in my hands when I took the mounting bracket off, and the sides of the upper housing were rusting through. I'm truly amazed it worked at all (basic settings test showed it working as expected, but I couldn't pull a vacuum at all with a hand pump).

Many thanks to the OP for discovering this, I sure am happy to not be replacing the turbo!

Cheers.
 

kballtdi

Member
Joined
Apr 3, 2010
Location
Plymouth, MA
TDI
2000 G, 2003 NB, 2004 JW, 2010 JSW, 2015 GSW
Glad to hear this fix is still working for folks.

McMaster Carr almost certainly will have metric threaded rod and coupling nuts.
 

dugslug

Active member
Joined
Oct 9, 2011
Location
Seaside, OR
TDI
2004 jetta wagon, manual, 250K miles
Anyone know the size of metric threading used on the rod? I'd like to order the pieces from McMaster before I start in on the project.

Thank you!
 

PakProtector

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2014
Location
AnnArbor, MI
TDI
Mk.4's and the Cummins
Just a word to youse; those nuts in the above pic are prevailing torque types, due to a bit of nylon that binds up the threads. They might as well be plain nuts as it does not take much heat at all to soften up the nylon and remove the prevailing torque performance.
cheers,
Douglas
 

jmodge

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Location
Greenville, MI
TDI
2001 alh Jetta, RC2 w/.205's 5speed daily summer commuter and 2000 alh Jetta 5spd swap, 2" lift, hitch, stage 3 TDtuning w/.216's winter cruiser, 1996 Tacoma ALh
FYI, Stover nuts have a fully metallic lock
 

JB05

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Oct 20, 2005
Location
Il.USA
TDI
Golf,2005,anthracite blue
I took a 1/4 20 rod and retapped it with a 6mm die. I later found a 6mm coupling at Menards. After two years my Garrett smart actuator is still going strong. I had Malone do a VNT delete to rid the CEL.
 
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