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Old September 19th, 2019, 22:29   #17
alaskax
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Salem, Wisconsin
Fuel Economy: 43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gforce1108 View Post
A power bleeder is probably the best way to do it. I've seen a how-to that looked a little scary, but apparently works well. They hooked a hose from the clutch slave bleeder to a front caliper bleeder - pumping fluid out the brake and into the clutch created a closed loop and purges out the air. Haven't tried it - but was very temped the last time I had to replace a slave!
The gap I measured was on a Luk setup - didn't catch if that's what you are running or a Sachs. Also - you may have a DMF problem. The second car that came into me with similar issues needed only a DMF (got a whole kit from idparts though). At first I figured 2 98 Beetles with the same symptoms would both have the same problem but nope... The second one would go into gear at a stop by pumping the clutch pedal a few times first. Took it all apart and nothing was worn besides the flywheel.
I've been running a G60 flywheel/VR6 clutch for over 200,000 miles, so I have a SMF. When I pulled it apart I was amazed at how good it looked. Was hoping for an obvious problem, but did not see one. But purchased a ClutchExperts Stage 2 setup (https://www.ebay.com/itm/CLUTCHXPERT...L/172142358960) thinking I might as well put in a beefier clutch since it was apart. I polished the G60 with fine grit sandpaper/block, reusing it since it looked good and I do not want a lighter flywheel. The clutch geometry was wrong however, so I put the old one back in- it looked almost as good as the brand new one that didn't fit. But also used the new stiffer stage 2 pressure plate, so really that is the only new component, along with the new fork, bearing, bullet stud (which I put a spacer washer under). As mentioned, after trying it out, the system acted the same as before, barely releasing the clutch when all the way to the floor. Moreover, this behavior has been going on for at least a year while I've ignored it and just dealt with it. I guess the only hard data I have is the 3/4 inch gap to the fork. Sure wish I would have measured it before I took everything apart, but it makes sense for it to be the same since it's acting the same before/after.
I can't see how forcing brake fluid from the brake bleeder into the clutch slave bleeder is different from me forcing/pumping brake fluid directly into the slave bleeder from my oil can. Assuming I'm interpreting your power bleeding correctly. Would it have something to do with the sheer volume or RATE of fluid flow into the slave?
I feel like I either need to pull the tranny again and put a whole stack of washers under the bullet stud to reduce the 3/4 inch gap to about 1/2 or 1/4 (but this should not be necessary if all the parts are good!) or start installing master and slave cylinders until I get a combo that actually works, even though my current hydraulic system DOES work, just not good enough. And this option seems ridiculous as well.
It's very frustrating, and likely hard for anyone to comment since nothing seems obvious that I have not tried, at least I think. But I'm really bothered with the fact that the new slave is softer than the old one. Can't imagine there is air in it based on how I bled the system, and I did the same thing for both slaves multiple times.
Appreciate the help, still hoping someone has a suggestion I can try. I feel like I've tried the "power bleeding" in reverse pressure bleeding at the slave, and the clutch and brake system are separate in any case even though they use the same fluid. As long as the tube from the reservoir is supplying fluid to the master, the brake and clutch systems are completely independent.
Sigh...
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