Power steering rack swap difficulty?

Okay, did a bunch more searching. Consensus… it’s not an easy swap and requires dropping the front subframe. I found a used rack but am unsure about the possible differences in steering racks. Apparently there are different racks for 15”, 16” and 17” wheel’ed cars. Since its 10-20degrees out I might have to pay someone to do this job unless I can figure out another way to troubleshoot the rack.

One idea I had is to disconnect the return line to the reservoir, plug the reservoir, and check to see if there is appreciable fluid returning. If not, there is a plugged line. If the line is plugged, there might be some way to unclog it (backflush maybe) without removing the rack. A few bottles of pentosin would be MUCH cheaper than a rack and labor. Any ideas?

If you do need to replace the rack, it's not near as difficult as a t-belt, clutch or intake manifold. You do need to drop the sub frame, 4 or 6 bolts (can't remember) and disconnect the tie rod ends. I would think it then wants an alignment. You might try bleeding the system first, disconnect the return line at the reservoir and place in a container. Turn the wheel gently to the full travel a couple times (til the fluids clean).

Thanks for the input. I'll give it a try before swapping racks. Do you know if turning the wheel from lock to lock without the car running (front wheels off the ground) will force fluid out the return line? My guess is no, in which case I'll have to start the car when trying this.

I suspect that no fluid will come out the return line at all, as I have no hydraulic assist currently yet the pump is spinning. Sigh...