Actuator Wire Damaged - Code P2564

golfere · Mar 6, 2019

So my check engine light came on showing code 18996; I checked the actuator connector and it seems there is a slight cut in the wire (see photo) whats the best way to go about this? Assuming this is the problem?

[/url][/IMG]

Any negative effects to driving it this way?

BobnOH · Mar 6, 2019

Not much to work with on the plug end. You can solder in a small section of wire. You can also just cut them right there and dissassemble the plug, if it's long enough just install new Tyco connectors on and slip it back in, not easy.
Won't hurt to drive it.

ToxicDoc · Mar 6, 2019

While corrosion in the wire can trip a fault code, i's intact. You gotta wonder if there's any other places damaged on that wire too.

golfere · Mar 6, 2019

BobnOH said:
Not much to work with on the plug end. You can solder in a small section of wire. You can also just cut them right there and dissassemble the plug, if it's long enough just install new Tyco connectors on and slip it back in, not easy.
Won't hurt to drive it.

Would soldering and filling in the cut be an option?

The car seems to have some "shuddering" when under a load (uphill) So im wondering if this wire could be the cause for this?

golfere · Mar 6, 2019

ToxicDoc said:
While corrosion in the wire can trip a fault code, i's intact. You gotta wonder if there's any other places damaged on that wire too.

Well whatever it is its enough to trip up the CEL constantly right away it comes back up when cleared; I will check again if i find anything else on the wires and let you know

Thanks!

BobnOH · Mar 7, 2019

golfere said:
Would soldering and filling in the cut be an option?

The car seems to have some "shuddering" when under a load (uphill) So im wondering if this wire could be the cause for this?

Thought about that, don't think I could do it. The wires too small, when you put the torch or iron to it, the insulation would melt away leaving you with just strands. Maybe if they made some kind of chemical solution.

Vince Waldon · Mar 7, 2019

SOP is to buy one or more "terminal repair" kits from a dealer...1 foot yellow wires with the right connector factory-installed on each end. You cut them in half (making two terminals), install them in place of any existing terminal with a broken or damaged wire, and then re-terminate the bad leads as required.

Dealer will want to know what connector you are fussing with to make sure you get the right size terminal...IIRC the ones on the position sensor are the small version (probably part of the problem?!)

Sent from my Moto X Play using Tapatalk

BobnOH · Mar 7, 2019

^That's the best repair. You will need to disassemble the plug. Getting the correct terminal will save some trouble.

golfere · Mar 7, 2019

I will look into it and get back to you on what i find; the wires look good the rest of the way so do you really think that little cut causes a CEL? What else could i look into?

ToxicDoc · Mar 7, 2019

golfere said:
I will look into it and get back to you on what i find; the wires look good the rest of the way so do you really think that little cut causes a CEL? What else could i look into?

It depends on how much damage there is to the current transmission. If there's enough resistance from the copper getting corroded yes. However, just based on the appearance, I'm not convinced. Regardless, it needs repair, and you won't know until that's done.

BobnOH · Mar 7, 2019

golfere said:
I will look into it and get back to you on what i find; the wires look good the rest of the way so do you really think that little cut causes a CEL? What else could i look into?

I had that exact nick on one of my wires from IP to ECU. Looked like it came from the factory that way. Passed continuity but threw 2 IP codes and ran bad, intermittent. Took me most of a year to find it.

Tdijarhead · Mar 7, 2019

I just repaired the same wire, for the same code about 2 weeks ago. Fix it the code should go away.

golfere · Mar 7, 2019

Tdijarhead said:
I just repaired the same wire, for the same code about 2 weeks ago. Fix it the code should go away.

Wow thats exciting to hear! How did you go about fixing it?

Did you notice any improvement in driving? (Im still having that shuddering problem and im trying to adjust torsion! From +2.5 to -5.9 nothing seems to fix it so far!)

Tdijarhead · Mar 7, 2019

I didn’t have any shuddering, that I noticed. I found that the wires had been repaired previously and so I just snipped two of them the purple and yellow and butt connected them back together. It was about 15*F out the evening so I just did a temp fix on them. I’m hoping they’ll hold together till warmer weather.

Tdijarhead · Mar 7, 2019

I remember you had a bit of a shudder or stutter. I don’t remember what you’ve done to your car in an attempt to fix it. Adjusting the torsion has not made a difference? Then you should probably set it at or near 0.

If you unplug the egr does it still shudder?

mjydrafter · Mar 8, 2019

golfere said:
Wow thats exciting to hear! How did you go about fixing it?

Did you notice any improvement in driving? (Im still having that shuddering problem and im trying to adjust torsion! From +2.5 to -5.9 nothing seems to fix it so far!)

Mine was rotten (wires) quite a ways up (like up to the top of the firewall). I ended up temporarily making a solder repair under the car, which let go a couple of weeks later.

My final fix was to pull the wire back (to the firewall) and run some new wires. Along with some new corrugated sheathing. Those little wires are no fun, and difficult to repair. I salvaged a connector and some other similar wires from the junkyard.

golfere · Mar 8, 2019

Tdijarhead said:
I remember you had a bit of a shudder or stutter. I don’t remember what you’ve done to your car in an attempt to fix it. Adjusting the torsion has not made a difference? Then you should probably set it at or near 0.

If you unplug the egr does it still shudder?

No when i unplug the EGR it is perfect; however i bought a brand new from dealer EGR and it still shudders; torsion is back at -0.5 but still nothing; i will fix the wire today and get back to you all

Thanks!

JB05 · Mar 8, 2019

Is the bare copper wire exposed? If not you may have a mechanical problem; the actuator itself may not be holding vacuum. VW repair wires would be the best solution if the wire is indeed exposed. There is a listing here somewhere that has the dimensions and part numbers of these repair wires. I recently used up all the ones I had to repair six wires chewed up by a squirrel; both crank and cam sensor connections were damaged beyond repair.

golfere · Mar 8, 2019

Yes the bare copper wire is exposed but it seems to be intact all the way around so why would it trigger a CEL?

Also, i have some insulated butt connectors what if i just cut the plug off and connect the 3 wires individually? Just dont know what ga the wire is...anyone know?

golfere · Mar 8, 2019

Also, the turbo on this car has been replaced so the actuator is holding vacuum

Tdijarhead · Mar 9, 2019

When repairing mine I noticed that it had been previously repaired. I could tell because a new plug with about 4” of wire had been spliced in the new plug had heavier gauge wires than the original light thin gauge. It had been there for almost 200k miles from the previous owner, with no problems.

Bottom line I don’t think the gauge matters as long as you have a good connection.

golfere · Mar 11, 2019

Perfect i will cut the cable connector before the small wire nick and connect it a few inches higher up with butt connectors; hopefully this was the problem!

Tdijarhead · Mar 11, 2019

A friend of mine had an 04 Bug with the same shudder, he would unplug the egr and it would run fine. We felt it was probably the egr so I sent him a spare I have and if I recall correctly it solved the problem. He was going to sell the car anyway so he was just curious if a different egr would help.

Another guy with a PD from Australia had your problem, again unplugging the egr solved the shudder. I don’t know if he ever replaced the egr or not.

You’ve already replaced the egr with new and it didn’t help, correct? Did you purchase the egr from a reputable source? Is it oem or aftermarket?

Actuator Wire Damaged - Code P2564

Veteran Member

not-a-mechanic

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

not-a-mechanic

Top Post Dawg

not-a-mechanic

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

not-a-mechanic

Top Post Dawg

Veteran Member

Top Post Dawg

Top Post Dawg

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Top Post Dawg

Veteran Member

Veteran Member

Top Post Dawg

Veteran Member

Top Post Dawg