05 Passat Possible Blown Turbo?

^^^^somebody needs to get lxxd

I live in Canada, have been driving a deleted B5.5 for three years, through three cycles of winters down to -30.

While the car is annoying when it's that cold, the vibes become much less annoying after only a few minutes once the engine and mounts are warmed up.

In the summer, I don't even notice.

OP is in LA - odds are he'll never notice the difference.

Stop being an alarmist poopy-head. Go fling insults about "getting Lxxd" over at the vortex kiddo.

I think it feels fine to me.

Click to expand...

Based on what the original poster said I think vibration is a closed issue for him.

afarfalla

Would you be kind enough to share which Audi models one can get a geared BSM from. I was not aware of any other models here in the US.

When i got the car in late Feb our cold was over for the season more or less. In March it got down in the 30's a few times. And now morning lows are in the 80's. Typically we might see 2 or three freezes in winter, and then only to about upper 20s/low 30s. About every 5 yrs or so we may get down to the low 20s or upper teens. Only once in all my 45 yrs have gotten down to single digits and that was 30 yrs ago. So down here along the Gulf Coast our winters are very tame compared to alot of you guys. We will NEVER see -30 down there way. And I dont wanna see it either. So for me, in the limited "cold" weather that ive driven so far and knowing how it is right now, and how our winters are, i dont think it will be an issue for me. Thanks for the input though. If i ever go that far north to see those kind of temps ill keep this in mind, but not likely.


While im thinking of it, does this engine have a block heater? Does it need one for what i just described? I know my 7.3 powerstroke doesnt like the cold below 25 or so. It definitely loves the block heater when that cold.

I'm in northern Virginia, park outside, and don't have a heater. I've never had any problems starting. It does rattle quite a bit around 0F. Latest plug and ecu flash along with the OH/MoGolf 94R battery upgrade.

A block heater is not available for the BHW since there is no place in the block for it. There is a frostheater setup available that ties into the oil cooler coolant hoses.

OK, back to the turbo...... im at the point where im ready to stab the turbo back on the car. The kit that came with the turbo has gasket for the oil return line, copper nuts (4), intake gasket, and downpipe gasket. But I cant seem to find a gasket for where the turbo bolts to the exhaust manifold. I cant seem to find the old one either , nor can i recall removing an old gasket. Is there a gasket in this spot? Surely there has to be a gasket, i wouldnt think it would be a metal to metal fit. Cant be. Has to have a gasket, but i be damned if i can find one in my kit nor an old one. Also, why 4 copper nuts? Why not 3 or why not 6?

Hmmmm... learn something new every day. Thats a first for me on something like that to not have a gasket.

Ok, got back at it. Since i only had 4 pinch nuts instead the 6 i think i needed, i just put two of the new nuts on each flange connection and one of the old nuts on each connection. Torqued everything down to spec. Finished installing everything else. Filled engine with oil. Left the oil supply line to turbo disconnected, disconnected injector wiring, then with the oil supply line into a container I spun the engine over in an attempt to flush the line with oil thinking there may have been a few shavings where i had to re-tap the hole for thread on other end. I was surprised how long it took to oil to come out of the other end. I cranked on the key for several seconds until i got an emissions light come on then stopped. I did this like 7 or 8 times before i got anything to come out of the supply line. But it did eventually come out. Then filled the inlet fitting to turbo with the assembly lube that came with the turbo and dumped the rest down the supply line and reconnected.


Then looked up how to bleed and prime the tandem pump (new pump that i replaced because i broke old one). Got my vacuum pump and primed. Reconnected all lines and injector connections. Attempted to start the engine. Crank, crank, crank, nothing. Cranked until dash light said to stop. Did this about 7 or 8 times. Was thinking damn it should be good by now. Then battery went dead. Get charger and charge up battery for about 30 min or so. Then i cycled the key on/off about 7-8 times. Crank it, nothing. Crank and put foot on go pedal a little bit, maybe halfway down, and it sputtered. Then i cranked it again and it fired up. Purring like a kitten. Finallly. Oil pressure showing about 50# on cold oil.


As long as the engine was cold, there was no smoke coming from the tail pipe. Let the engine idle for about 5 min then i started to slowly increase the rpms. Now that the engine is semi warmed up and revved up it starts to smoke. Let it idle some more then cut it off and take a break. About an hour or so later go back and crank it up, purring like a kitten and while cold, no smoke. Didnt run it long as i didnt want to get the engine warm/hot while i still some things to reassemble. Was in the process of putting the front bumper and intake box back on when a thunderstorm has driven me inside for a bit.


I completely washed and rinsed/flushed out all the intake components except for the cross tube. One, it was nasty, and two figured with it all cleaned up it would reduce the smoking upon start up. Which i guess it did until the engine warmed up. Given the steps i took to clean the intake and given that it doesnt smoke until warmed up, is this normal behavior after this type of job? Havent gone a test drive yet, probably tomorrow as it looks like the rain has set in. But was wondering just how much smoke is normal? One thing that has me leery is that before i bolted the intake manifold back on i took a look inside the head intake. At first glance i wanted to clean all the soot that was caked up on the walls. But didnt want any big chunks of anything falling into the cylinder. But what caught my eye was that on the #2 cylinder the valve stem was wet with oil. The rest of the intake valve stems were bone dry, but the #2 was wet. Im a parts changer, not an engine guy, what does this indicate? Is this a problem? Or is it just normal for a high mileage engine?


See below for pics of the dry stem and the wet stem...

Once upon a time, my grandfather worked for GM building motors on the line. He was 15 or 16. They didnt use exhaust manifold gaskets. If it leaked it wasnt right. He lied about his age to join the navy after pearl harbor and was in the South Pacific on a destroyer just a few months after that to give you an idea of how long ago this was. American made motors (especially the LS motors) have come a long way but they were once built to last with very tight precision specs. The checker cabs were just GM inline 6 motors that were balanced and blue printed, not uncommon to get near a million miles on them.

Got everything buttoned back up and took her for a lil spin today. Not saying that i put every bolt back into its proper place, but i put em all somewhere and only had a few nuts leftover, some from replacing the pinch nuts and some from a small support bracket for something that i couldnt remember where it went. Other than that , no parts left over, and im damn sure impressed with myself on that considering how much of this car i had apart. It took me right at a month from when it happened to research, ask questions, order parts, break parts, order more parts, curse, curse, and curse some more until i got it going again. I think ive got 8 days that i worked on it, not 8 full days, but 8 days that i did something on it. Probably if added all time up its more like 5 working days ive got in it for a first time go around. God forbid that i would have to do it again but i bet i could cut that time almost in half the next time. This was the first time that something had me so flustered that i was ready to give up, but glad i cooled off and changed my mind. It was a good lil project for sure.

Dang it sure is nerve wracking to just drive and drive with all this smoke coming out the back end. But drive it i did. Figured it was gonna work or it wasnt. Then the rain started. Couldnt tell what was smoke, what was rain drops on window/mirrors, or what was road mist coming up off the road. And in order to burn the all the oil out of exhaust i need heat, meaning need to work it good to get egts up. But with the rain and what seemed like everybody and the mother out for a sunday drive i just couldnt get much going. But, could tell that the further i drove it the more the smoke would lessen up. At about 30 miles it was still smoking pretty good, then at 50 it was faint, but still visible. It wasnt until i got between 70-80 miles that it was getting difficult to see any smoke. I drove a total of 98 miles by time i returned home and i cant tell if its smoking or not. I think i got a puff on a restart, but thats about it. Good thing is that i basically went 100 miles and didnt need a rescue. The entire back side of the car was black with oil though when i got back home. She definitely needed a bath.

Well, i think i had read this before, there is the EMISSIONS WORKSHOP alert that displays after the key is turned on. I guess this is because of the oil in the exhaust that the computer doesnt like what it smells. And the check engine light is on of course. Im sure ill have to either find someone or some shop to view it and clear any codes for me. I think there is a guy at work that has the program to do that, ill have to ask him tomorrow.

Anyway, thanks for all the help and guidance offered, it was all appreciated. And ive had some friends and family ask me why im doing this to a 13 yr car with 233k on the clock, well, because the car is in damned good shape. If it was all trashed out, i probably would have just sucked up my losses and moved on. But it is a clean and good looking lil car that gets 35-40 mpg depending on my foot. I gotta keep her around a lil longer.

Good to hear you got it back together. I know how you feel. Mine with 210k still drives better than most of the rental cars I drive quite often. If you still have an Emissions Workshop message I'd scan it. It's better to know why. Yours look to be in very good shape. It's nice to see these being well cared for.

Stopped by Oreillys today and had them scan it. There were 7 codes and they all seemed related to all the sensors that i disconnected and reconnected. Injector wire circuit, egr, maf, etc etc etc. Guy at work is bringing his vag-com software to work tomorrow and will look at it again and probably clear it out and see if anything returns.
Car drives fine. No issues other than light and its looking like that is just side effect of working on everything.

Ok, i borrowed a coworkers cable for diagnostic connection. Im sure that either this cable isnt compatible, different software release that not compatible, or just that I am doing something wrong. Probably all three are probable. I downloaded the latest version of the vag software, release 18.2.1, The cable that he has registered to him for when he had his 2011 VW Passat is a Micro-Can dongle cable. I plugged everything in and it appears that it sees the connection, but that apparently it is not compatible judging from the message that i received after performing the TEST after connection and IGN ON.





Any suggestions on how to make it work? Or is it just not a compatible product and i need something else?

The micro-CAN is not compatible with 3B chassis. http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/old-interfaces/uC.php

Seems that ive picked a bastard of a little car for myself. Can find all kinds of stuff for other vehicles, just not this particular one... greaaattttt.... lol



Managed to get just a scanner and found the following:
P0200 Injector Circuit
P0102 Mass Air Flow
P2102 Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit Low
P2413 Exhaust Gas Recirculation
P2100 Throttle Actuator Control Motor Circuit Open
P2196 Oxygen Sensor Signal Biased Stuck Rich Bank 1 Sensor 1
P2196 Oxygen Sensor Signal Biased Stuck Rich Bank 1 Sensor 1


I had no codes before the mishap, heck, not even during the mishap did any CEL come on or Emissions alert or nothing. But these all appear to be related to everything that was disconnected to perform the work that was done with changing the turbo. I cleared these codes with the reader and drove about 60 miles with several start/stops on my way home. None of the codes reappeared. So hopefully im in the clear now and this job/project is complete.