Old Navy
Top Post Dawg
If they do this one will be gone fast.and if the US auto makers got off their high horse, that would be a DIESEL T&C you would be driving, getting 30ish + MPG all day long. .
oh well, , ,
If they do this one will be gone fast.and if the US auto makers got off their high horse, that would be a DIESEL T&C you would be driving, getting 30ish + MPG all day long. .
oh well, , ,
I don't understand why almost all of the 320CDIs are light colors on light colors. Grey on grey, white on grey, etc. It's rare to see one that's a dark exterior color.
White on black, pano roof 55k mi rocketchipped...I like rare and I wouldn't take anything less than $5k over perfect market value.
The first (front) fuel injector on my CDI leaked and blew a hole in the valve cover gasket ($$$). It needed a new injector, had to order the valve cover from Germany, and it was OK after that. Wouldn't fool around with this - just have it completely fixed with new components. The fuel injection system is modular so its relatively easy to fix and maintain. It is high pressure with the common rail direct injection system, so any leak is liable to cause a fire from accumulated diesel residue, etc. These cars can go for a long time if you keep up with them and just replace components. The E is used as a taxi in Europe and I believe it can easily go a million miles with the right care and a diesel engine.
My CDI has a couple of problems:
The first one is really not a problem because I have the 'fix' for it and when I have the second more serous problem corrected, I will have the the first one repaired at the same time.
The minor problem is a failed thermostate and I have a new one complete
in a new housing with a new temperature sender and gasket.
The other more serious problem is a leaking fuel injector. It leaks diesel exhaust fumes from where the injector goes into the cylinder head, and there are very strong diesel fumes coming into the cabin.
Even though I recirculate the air within the cabin, that system will only stay activated for five minutes, and then the system shuts off automatically and starts bringing outside air into the interior and of course, those smelly fumes with it.
So every five minutes, when that light goes out, I must reactivate
the recirculating air. Has anyone ever heard of such a system?
I have new copper washers which are supposed to seal the injectors, but I am not sure that
I have the correct parts. It seems like the washers should be larger somehow?
Has anyone here had experience with their fuel injectors leaking in this manner?
Thanks for any and all help or suggestions.
Derrel
I dont want to imagine the discomfort of shooting a 357 magnum on the titanium j frame. especially if it was a snub nose. my old snub nose aluminum charter arms 38 special with +P ammo was bad enough. I have since gotten rid if it. Terrible gun the charter was.I has a S&W titanium in a J frame 357 that killed on both ends and sold to a guy who is some years younger them me, that still carries it as his duty gun. Said he had a sore hand for a week after qualifying with the gun.
No, no success with trying to clear the service codes.
Going to check on MB diesel forum this weekend and see if anyone there can help, but I'm thinking MB has me by the short hairs.
That S&W had titanium cylinder also with a 3" barre and only weighed 13.5 ounces. Think I shot one cylinder of 357 and couple days later dried 38 special and not much difference so I sold him the gun. Says he only shoots the gun for qual's and that it's still tight and only one other detective carrying one. I'll stick with my 10mm 1911's, 2 Colt's and a Dan Wesson.I dont want to imagine the discomfort of shooting a 357 magnum on the titanium j frame. especially if it was a snub nose. my old snub nose aluminum charter arms 38 special with +P ammo was bad enough. I have since gotten rid if it. Terrible gun the charter was.
Yeah, I don't know what book you're looking at. 65k clean 05/06 CDI does not sell for 16 or 17k in this country. I've been in market for over 4 months now. I've come close on a couple examples. You might be able to find 100k+ miles version for that money (not that there's anything wrong with that).
Tony, there is a white one listed within 65 miles of my location.
The trouble with it is, he's pricing it higher ($23.5K!) than what the book says they're worth!
He is about six to seven grand overpriced IMHO.
That's the trick, to find one that is clean and has been well cared for at a reasonable price.
To do that, you must locate one before it has fallen into the hands of a dealer.
You want to buy it for what the dealer pays for it, not what they mark it up to!
I'm sure that the local dealer close to the seller that had mine would not allow
him in trade what I paid him for it! He was buying a new (White) one.
That is why this seller sold his privately, even though the dealer knew the
car well as he'd had it serviced regularly there for almost seven years.
The CDIs are not as plentiful here in California because all of them that are here now were
brought into California and registered as 'used' cars because of the
stricter smog rules in force for me diesels in 2005-2006.
All had to have 7,500 miles on their odometers before being brought into California as used.
Most entered just as mine did, and had their required 7,500 miles done on the way
here and within California before being registered here as used cars.
Do an 'Autotrader' search with no distance limitations and there are plenty available, but
you want to find one that had not been where salt is used on the roads during the winter.
Therefore, you are limited to cars that are and have been all of their lives in Texas, Arizona,
California, New Mexxico, Oregon, and Washington States to name a few locations.
To that add your color choice and finding a reasonably priced car,
and you are correct, it will be hard to find.
Good luck with your search. I felt I got lucky for a change!
D
how is your fuel economy? i heard you could only get 22-23 on the highway with those trucks.I have an om642 powered Jeep CRD. I want in the club. Currently I'm pondering new 2011 335d vs the new passat tdi.
Interesting comparison.I have an om642 powered Jeep CRD. It has been a fun toy, I replaced the rear axle with one that had a 3.07 ratio to now average around 25.5 mpg.(up 2.5 from the 3.73) Now it is boring me. Currently I'm pondering new 2011 335d vs the new passat tdi.
To some extent if you are buying new, the way to avoid the drawbacks of engine compromising emission controls is the urea injection route. It will add cost and future maintenance (perhaps) but the engine is a bit more free of some of the more severe compromises to performance and longevity that come from smog regulations since the urea injection helps clean up the exhaust after it leaves the engine, allowing for the diesel to be free to "power up" more in its tuning.My main concerns for both are :1. What kind of reliability will it have? 2. What are the engine flaws?I've always wanted a bmw 3 with a manual transmission. On the other hand, I really enjoyed my Passat tdi but it I was extremely lucky to have sold it before all the information about the balance shaft/camshafts came about. So I definitely have some trust issues with volkswagen, knowingly doing some of the things that they do.
With knowledge of that I figured the mercedes engine would be perfect. It had more power and reputation of mercedes diesels with it. Unfortunately, I have found it is quirky as well. I have to run a road draft tube for the pcv just to keep the swirl flaps clean. The intake design is a joke. If you change the oil incorrectly, you can permanently damage the motor! I find all that to be ridiculous and I'm worried BMW will have the same things going on. Dpf's and cats are strangling the competitive edge of the diesel in performance and fuel economy. Probably I am looking at removing them on the om642 if I find the right tune to go with it.
Diesels are great, I love them for their engine characteristics and performance. Why should we have to reverse engineer them just to get natural advantages? Anyway, I'd love to hear someone give me the true rundown of these two cars or point me in the right direction.
Once you are past the free service, which is 4 years, 50,000 miles, it shouldn't be a stretch for you to do the basic service like oil/filter changes and such things as brakes and even glow plugs, especially with a proper OBDII meter with specific code capabilities for this model.I am set on doing my own services(Filters, oil, glow plugs etc, diagnostics, etc.). Is this doable on the 335d?
I bought my '05 Passat tdi in Dec '04, and I traded it last Friday for an '05 E320 CDI. I also have a '85 300SD with 307k on the clock that runs great. Lets see if the photos work. The cdi has 96k miles and I paid $18k for it. I have been searching for 3 months for one of these to pop up close enough to Saint Louis and this one appeared at a local dealer.
Of course I have already ordered a new thermostat because it is stuck open and running at 60C or lower. I love this car, it is a rocket ship on the highway.
I took off the dealer plate frame and put on my TDICLUB.com plate frame on the rear. Meanwhile the 300sd marks its territory really well.
I bought my '05 Passat tdi in Dec '04, and I traded it last Friday for an '05 E320 CDI. I also have a '85 300SD with 307k on the clock that runs great. Lets see if the photos work. The cdi has 96k miles and I paid $18k for it. I have been searching for 3 months for one of these to pop up close enough to Saint Louis and this one appeared at a local dealer.
Of course I have already ordered a new thermostat because it is stuck open and running at 60C or lower. I love this car, it is a rocket ship on the highway.
I took off the dealer plate frame and put on my TDICLUB.com plate frame on the rear. Meanwhile the 300sd marks its territory really well.