hevster1
Vendor
The tools do come with the kit from DG. The 2 I have done I did on a lift. I refuse to hump out a trans on my back anymore.
You are supposed to pull the oil pan when the seal is replaced (a really easy procedure if you've just removed the transmission) so that you can properly apply new sealent between the oil pan and main seal.clintontull said:wow, not looking forward to the clutch at all. also is the rear seal easy to change at that time too or do you have to pull the oil pan and crank?
You are not supposed to take the oil pan off. It goes in no problem and you do not have to apply gasket maker on the bottom as it has a rubber gasket built in (the seal that is).Chemboy said:You are supposed to pull the oil pan when the seal is replaced (a really easy procedure if you've just removed the transmission) so that you can properly apply new sealent between the oil pan and main seal.
If you need a rear seal, send me a PM - I bought one for just in case when I replaced my clutch, but ended up not needing it.
--Andy
Actually, you are supposed to. Review the service manual again.Doc_Oc said:You are not supposed to take the oil pan off. It goes in no problem and you do not have to apply gasket maker on the bottom as it has a rubber gasket built in (the seal that is).
You don't need to take the half shaft out...but with the driver side one out...it is a breaze to get the tranny back up. Well worth the spilled oil and the 3 minutes to take it out.
I look at the service manuals like I look at the speed limits. SUGESTIONS, just sugestions.Chemboy said:Actually, you are supposed to. Review the service manual again.
--Andy
I second this remark. I had no help and finally gave up after not being able to get the transaxle back up to mate with the engine. Dropped the sub frame after removing the 4 steering rack bolts. There are only 4 large bolts needed to drop the sub frame. Replacing the subframe takes a jack on one side. Line it up and screw in one bolt finger tight. Do one on the other side. Now you can replace the last 2 bolts, and tighten everything together. These large bolts are even much easier to stretch (the last "+ 90 " turn after reaching torque) than the short flywheel bolts were.hevster1 said:The easiest way so far I have found is to remove the x-member completely. You gain so much room both on disassembly and reassembly. ...
OK. So the pressure plate bolts are reusable then? Could someone tell me what the torque should be on these? (I won't be able to get a manual before the parts arrive). I'm guessing they might be a bit different from a gasser Cabriolet2footbraker said:Flywheel bolts are all you really should replace but yes, there are some stretch bolts it wouldn't hurt to replace. When I did mine, I replaced the tranny mount bolts, dogbone mount bolts, the gear selector bolt and the inner CV bolts. If I was to do it again I probably wouldn't even bother replacing them though.
Nope... Bentley says "always replace"...Richy_T said:OK. So the pressure plate bolts are reusable then?
For pressure plate bolts my CD Bentley says:ymz said:Nope... Bentley says "always replace"...
On Dual Mass Flywheels, they're tightened to 22 NM
On Single Mass Flywheels, they're tightened to 20 NM
So does my book version (data closed April 15, 2003)visionlogic said:For pressure plate bolts my CD Bentley says:
On two-part flywheel: 13 Nm
On single piece flywheel: 20 Nm
Just downloaded a newer update... now it's back to 13 NM...ymz said:So does my book version (data closed April 15, 2003)
My more recent CD version (updated last October) gives the 22 and 20 NM figures...
Interesting...
They changed the torque value on the engine mount big bolts as well, at some point, too--no more "plus 90 degrees" turn, but with a higher single torque value.ymz said:So does my book version (data closed April 15, 2003)
My more recent CD version (updated last October) gives the 22 and 20 NM figures...
Interesting...
Yuri.