ALH TDI engine transplant into '84 Vanagon

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Progress status

Andy,
It has been a week since your last post. How are things going?
Thanks for keeping up with the project and asking questions. I take that as encouragement.

Well, I've still not done anything this mont. But, I did acquire some aluminum pieces last week to make a holding bracket for the ECU and other pieces parts related to the electrical.

As you may recall, I am locating the ECU, relays, and main connections (colored connectors) under the back seat. I want this to all be accessible and very neat.

And, as I think I posted, the left side engine Bracket for the motor mount never turned out as I had hoped. So, I have removed it for "re-engineering." It needs reinforced to strengthen it. I used 3/16 inch metal and 5/16 would have been much better. Also, I plan to add a brace from behind the turbo/manifold. The engine block has two threaded bolt holes that can be used for this purpose. I will post photos as soon as I get it going!
 

markward

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2007
Location
Loxahatchee, Florida
TDI
82 Vanagon and 2011 JSW
Andy, it really is a lot of work. Overall it seems simple enough, but the more time you spend with it, the more time you begin to realize it will take. I totally get using an earlier TDI that can utilize more of the stock Diesel Vanagon stuff. I also get considering dumping the electronic and going manual. You will get there. Will be well worth it when you are done. mark
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Project Update

Okay, over the weekend I did find some time to do work on the "wiring central" to hold the ECU, Main Fuse Box, Fuse box, and the Relay Panel.

For those keeping up with this Thread from the beginning, as you may recall, I am staying with the OE wiring schematic. Example, I am using all five of the Colored Connectors even though some of them may only have two or three needed circuits. And, the fuses I use "by number," protect the same circuits as per the Bentley Manual Schematics.

So, as you also may recall, my plan is to locate the ECU, Fuse Panels, and Relays under the back seat.

Anyway, although it is not finished, here are a few photos of what I got done over the weekend.

All comments are at the top of each photo!

This pic is of a pile of parts. I like to take things (pack rat stuff) and fabricate what I need. The objective is to use this "stuff" to fabricate a device to hold the ECU and related items in one central location. The black thingy on the left is a metal case from probably a VCR Tape Deck. The gold metal pieces are from an old blood pressure machine (very old). You can see the TDI ECU and Relay Panel there as well.


In this pic you can see the ECU sitting in the board frames that come out of the old blood pressure machine. I cut off back part of each frame.


This is a close-up of one side of the hold frames that the ECU slides into very nicely.:D


The following photos are different angles of the "almost" finished "Wiring Central Device."
If you look close and are familar with the parts, you can see the Main Fuse box from top of the battery. Yes, I plan to use it as well as the three 30amp fused circuits.


In this pic you can see the aftermarket Fuse Panel on the left and the Main Fuse Panel top center.


In this photo you can see the OE Relay Panel in the foreground. I plan to use 4 slots to hold the 109, the two 53s for the coolant GPs and the starter interlock relay. Also, I plan to mount the 5 Colored connectors permenantly in the nearest slots. There will be wires coming in from the left of the unit and going out under the ECU. And, of course there will be wires going to and from the Fuse Panels.


In this pic you can see under the Main Fuse panel and ECU. The regular fuse panel is to the right and the Relay Panel is in the forground.


This angle shows the regular Fuse Panel. It has spades on the bottom across from those on top.


Reserved .........................Well, I guess the Avatar Photo counts as an Image! So, I guess you got cheated!

Lastly, here is a shot of it sitting under the back seat......


It is my intent to add a piece of aluminum strip along the bottom of the frame next to the carpet for strength. Also, I will need to make a mounting bracket for the GP Relay!
 
Last edited:

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
More Update

This is a photo of the Aftermarket fuse panels. I'm using the one on the left.

Using the Main Fuse Panel also eliminates having to use the other Aftermarket fuse panel there on the right. I only needed to run three circuits through it. So, the three 30amp circuits in the Main Fuse panel will be put to use as well as three of the high amp circuits to provide Power to the Relay 109 via an ignition switch, Glow Plugs and Coolant Glow Plugs and may some other items.



Below is the photo I could not put in the previous post. It shows the ECU out of the holding bracket........adds a little prespective to the device!
 
Last edited:

Growler

Got Soot Vendor
Joined
Nov 24, 2003
Location
Millersport, Ohio
TDI
Schmutz, 2015 Golf Sportwagen DSG & Schnurren, 2001 Golf GL 2 door 5M
Andy, That is some awesome fabrication. Very well thought out design. Cannot wait to see how you route all fo the wires to & from this thing. Keep up the good work.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update

These photos are a follow-up to the last update. Comments are at the top of the photos.

Here I try to show the relative position of a few circuits and how they will look in reality!

Notice the five colored connectors (White, Black, Brown, Blue and Orange). I could cut them off and splice each wire individually. However, the connectors provide a reference in the event a problem should show it's ugly face sometime in the future.

This photo shows the "wiring mess" as it obviously appears to be.

Notice the one 53 Relay. There will be another one just below it. They are for the Coolant GPs.

See the 109 Relay. The Blue Connector is associated with it. The Blue Connector primarily contains the Accelerator circuit!

At the bottom of the photo you can see the one red power wire coming out of the Main Fuse box. It goes to the 109 Relay. The Blue wire comes out of the 109 Relay and goes to the Fuse Panel and will be spliced for three of the fuses (per the Schematics in Bentley)

At the top of the photo is the Glow Plug Relay. Also, the "unwrapped" wires all go to the five colored connectors and the two 53 Relays. I will wrap those wires for easy work and neatness!


In this photo, you can see the colored connectors a little better. The black one is between the white and blue connector (sorry about the focus). Also, the large red wires will be "cut to fit" and installed in the Main Fuse Box per the Schematics in the Bentley.


This is a closer view of Relay 109. Notice the small blue and yellow wire. It comes off the 109 Relay connector and goes "into" the bundle coming off the Blue Connector. The circuit goes back to the Blue Connector to Pin T10h/8 and from there the circuit goes to T121/18 on the ECU .........so, switching on the ignition key activates the 109 Relay as opposed to the other way around.

Also, as stated above, the circuits coming out of the Blue Connector go to the Accelerator at the front of the vehicle. These wires will all be cut and spliced for length as necesssary.


In this pic, you can better see the larger red wires. As previously stated, they will be cut to fit and installed in the black box (Main Fuse Box). Also, there will be a large hot wire from the Starter (yes, Starter) to power the Main Fuse Box. On the Vanagon starter, the main terminal at the Solonoid will receive the ALT Wire and the Big Battery wire, thus the source of power for the Main Fuse Box.

Also, notice the Black connector (with white paint on it) on the Main Fuse Box. There are three circuits there, of which one, normally provides power to the Fan Control Module for the fans and the other two were used for the ABS. Well, I am using them for Fuses 12, 13, and 15 (OBD 16, F47/1[brake switch] & T32/23 [+positive for the Cluster]). Remember, using these three Fuses eliminates the other Aftermarket fuse panel.


Another view of the Relay panel with the Colored Circuit Connectors. The Panel does not hold the conncectors tight enough for "plug-in" purposes. However, they will stay in place once connected. I did consider using epoxy to permenantly secure them, but decided against that idea. I want this thing to stay "plug and play." So, if I need to remove the central mounting unit it will not be a hassle!


Here in this photo is a close-up of the Blue wire coming off the 109 Relay. As previously stated, it will be cut and spliced to provide power to Fuses 32, 34 & 42 (per the schematics in the Bentley).
These three circuits power up the following:

Fuse 32 - At/on the IP, G81, G149, N146 and T121/1 & T121/2 to the ECU
Fuse 34 - N108, G70, N75, N18, & N239
Fuse 43 - F36, F47, N79 and J359 & J360
Now ...........do you better understand the IMPORTANCE of the 109 Relay!


In this pic, you can see the main connectors to the ECU. Also, you can see my finger is on the wire bundle from the Blue Connector which goes to the Accelerator.


This is a closer shot of the Glow Plug Relay. I will fabricate a mounting bracket about where it is laying there.


Of course, the above photos are of the Unit laying on the work bench. However, I do believe working with it in place under the back seat will be quite easy!

Comments welcome, as well as questions.

EDIT: I should make it clear, the wiring bundle for each connector to the ECU has been modified somewhat. I opened them up (unwraped the factory tape) to locate some of the wiring for various branches. I then cut and spliced selected wires giving more length so I could relocate the "branch" in another spot on the bundle. Then, I re-wrapped each bundle with good electrical tape.

At this point, the Wiring all begins to fall in place and I'm beginning to better understand how it will look. I've been thru all the circuits on paper numerous times, checking and re-checking. Looking at it as it begins to take shape brings everything into perspective .....yes, believe me, all those nights until 3:00 in the morning are beginning to pay off!
 
Last edited:

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update

Well, I had an opportunity to work on the project this afternoon/evening. I continued with the electrical wiring to see how things are going to fit in the engine compartment.

I temporarily re-installed the Intake manifold to see if it would be an issue with the vacuum controls. They will be placed on the left side of the engine bay just below the cover lid rim. It looks as if I may have to re-route the big vacuum hose that connects to the vac pump. It's the hose that goes to the front of the vehicle for power brakes.

I also connected the heater hoses and a few other things to see how they would be laying in relation to the wiring harness.

So, it looks like the connector circuit for the N75 valve will need to be cut and lengthened.

I will need to make up a long circuit for the MAF and the Heat Element at the PCV hose.

Oddly, the small ECU connector part of the harness has more wire length than necessary but not so much that it needs to be shortened.

I also made spring support for the AC lines to keep them up off the tranny!

I do have photos to post, but my other PC crashed about two hours ago!

Tomorrow I will be doing a Timing Chain/TB on a 1.8T gasser engine. No doubt, the project will have to wait an day or two!
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update

Here are a few more photos relating to the wiring and ECU location under the back seat.

This is the access hole for routing the two main wiring bundles to the ECU from the Engine. Yes, it is rather large, but the alternative was to cut the bundles, thread the wire thru a smaller hole and then solder them .....heck no! So, once I'm finished with the wiring, lots of silicone chalk:D


In this pic, you can see the rubber gromment.


In this pic, you can see the two main wiring bundles in the hole (temporary at this point)! The circuits that go to the front of the vehicle will also be placed in this hole.
The large Positive wire for power to the main fuse box will be routed thru a separate hole.


In this pic, you can see the wiring and 5 colored connectors (bottom center) as well as the two circuit recepticals for the 53 relays for the coolant GPs (with the red wires).


Now, here you can see the that wiring has been bundled and wraped with electrical tape for each of the 5 colored connectors as well as the Coolant GP circuits.


The regular GP Relay receptical can be seen top center left. It looks to be green inside.

Bundling the wiring makes it much easier to place and secure behind the panel I fabricated for the ECU and fuse panels.
 
Last edited:

jjordan11

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2008
Location
Lehi, UT
TDI
1988 Audi 80 quattro PD130, 1982 Westfalia TDI
It's looking really good Andy, I really like how you have the ecm mounted. One thing to note, I'm sure you have thought about it , but make sure to have a tighter seal around the harness going into the vehicle under the rear seat. It's surprising how much diesel exhaust fumes can migrate, especially with these Vans. I still have a few leaks and can smell the exhaust some. I do love the use of the silicone though.

Jon

Edit: Just noticed the temporary comment too, I'm sure you already have sealing plans :).
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update on wiring schematics

Well, as I have been working with the wiring harness, it has become obvious that I need to improve the "clarity" in my mind as to how everything is going to fall in place. Although I feel really comfortable with how the various circuits will all come into play, grouping the wires together with common terminal points is something I had not considered earlier.

So, I went back to my schematics and tried to color code as best I could without drawing in all the various wires (circuits). Boiling it down to the basics has made it a little more realistic.

Anyway, posted here are the scans of the lastest revisions. I hope they are readable. You can go to my gallery (TDI wiring harness for Vanagon) and click on them to get a close-up view.

The first scan is sheet 1 of 2 and would be on your left (primarily the front of the vehicle). The second scan is sheet 2 of 2 and will be on your right (basically the rear of the vehicle).

The large Green and Blue thingy on the left is the Cluster. The ignition is straight up. To the right of the ignition is the Accelerator and Cruise connectors. The OBD is straight down below. And, lastly, several connectors for various sensors are on the right.


In the scan below, you can see the fuse box at the top. Below it, is the fuse box from the top of the battery. I will use the three circuits at the top of it for fuses 12, 13, and 15 (normally fuses 178, 177, & 179 go there). The other main circuits can been seen with the red representing hot from the starter terminal which is hot from the battery (that's how it's done in the Vanagon). At top right, you can see the Five Colored Connectors which I have previously posted photos of their respective recepticales mounted in the relay panel (making sense now?). The coolant level sensor can be seen also. Bottom right corner is the 14-pin connector.
Also, notice near the center, is Splice 269. It is a common connection for several of the sensors. As you can see, I have drawn in some of the circuits just for illustrative purposes. Also, as per the Bentley Manual, Splices are numbered and have a circle around them.


In this scan below, is the relative position of the Coolant Level Sensor, MAF, PCV heating element (N79) and the 14-pin connector. Also, here you can see the one fuse box and one important Splice, 269. This schematic is necessary to get a grip on how to group and bundle the wiring as it goes forward to the fuse/ECU area as well as those circuits that go on to the front of the vehicle. The blue connection references are for circuits that go to the "blue connector" of the Cluster......green for the other side!


Notice: I have only drawn in a few of the circuits. Where the lines run together doesn't mean those wires are spliced, that's only to indicate they will be grouped and bundled together for routing!

Edit: This is a direct link to my album containing the above photos: http://pics.tdiclub.com/showphoto.php?photo=84311&title=tdi-wiring-schematic&cat=5297
 
Last edited:

Van Wylder

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 8, 2011
Location
SE Ohio
TDI
00 Jetta sedan 5 spd. 03 Jetta wagon 5 spd.
Wow, that's some bit o' work you've been up to. Bet that thing will be more fun than the average Dub Van. The two folks I knew who owned one spent more time tearing them apart and putting them back together than having fun with them.
 
Last edited:

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update

Here is a bit of an update......sorry no photos.

As you may know, I've spent numerious hours deciphering the wiring schematics of the '02 ALH engine and related management components, not only for understanding, but to apply them in my project. I've put together pages and pages on various circuits of the major connectors, sensors, etc.

Well, over the last week, as I found time to work on the project, I've moved those circuit schematics (Ring-binder) to the garage from my study. Until now, I had only worked with the wiring harness in the garage on a simple basis to generalize how things "may" fit, etc.

So, to my surprise, several of the circuits that plug onto the engine harness don't need lengthening to reach the ECU central area. In fact, locating the ECU, fuse panels, etc., under the back seat is working out quite nicely. Example, all wires in the 14-pin connector, as stripped from the car, will reach the fuse panels, etc., under the seat without splicing. And, the harness from the Alternator, which includes the AC circuits, is long enough to reach the fuse panel, etc., under the back seat.

From the junction area under the back seat, I will bundle 13 circuits involving the Cluster for running to the front of the vehicle. Other circuits that will be included in a separate bundle involve the OBD, VSS, ignition circuit(s), brake switch circuits, clutch switch circuits, cruise, accelerator, etc.

Lastly, today, I "roughed-in" the circuits for the PCV Heating element, MAF, and the coolant level sensor. All those circuits originate from the right rear of the vehicle. I also cut and lengthened wiring to the N75 switch/valve.

I'll try to have photos for the next update!
 
Last edited:

cumminsfromthecold

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 27, 2006
Location
HumCo
TDI
'84 Toyota 1Z 4WD x-cab
Re ALH Wiring Schematics

Very nice work, Andy. I admire your attention to detail. Those schematics are invaluable, too.
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update

(6/2014) EDIT: The improvised use of a Fan Control Module "housing" as shown below was abandoned! I also did not use the Ethernet cable. However the concept/idea stayed the same but I used individual 20 and 22 gauge stranded wires with various plug & play non-protected connectors. I also ended up with three cables containing about 40 circuits going to the front.

Update

Well, for the last week or so, I haven't done a lot of hands-on work with the project. But, I have spent a considerable amount of time "tweaking" the electrical schematics so that they are a little more user friendly. Looking at all those diagrams here on the PC and then trying to apply them in the real world (out at the garage) is a challenge.

Okay, here in this post are a few photos of my latest work. As usual, I've made use of available "stuff" either from the project bits or things laying around the garage.

These photos will primarily reflect the wiring for the Accelerator and Cruise Control and their respective place in the central location.

I am trying to make everything as close to "plug and play" as possible while maintaining the circuits that I use per the Bentley schematics.

Anyway, to "improvise" you will see I used the 14-pin connector and "half" of the Fan Control Module (FCM) to provide the "plug and play" aspect of the Accelerator and Cruise Control wiring. (Water was the culprit that destoryed the FCM.)

The Accelerator circuits require 6 wires and the Cruise Control requires 7 wires, of which two are associated with the Brake Switch. So, that totals 13 wires in the 14-pin connector (#12 was a blank, so perfect for my use).

Comments are at the top of each photo.

The photo below is a side shot of the FCM cut in half. You can see the 14-pin connector on the left and the Ethernet cable on the right. Notice the schematics in the background ...........


In this photo, the two ethernet cables have been soldered onto the "guts" of the 14-pin connector.


Here, both ethernet cables are visible. Notice: later, I made the decision to elimate one of the ethernet cables. I determined that the wires may not be large enough to carry the load.


In this photo, you can see that I have eliminated the ethernet cable on the left and replaced it with individual 18 & 20 gauage wires. Also, notice there are three circuits of the one ethernet cable pulled out. Well, those circuits will be used for three connections to the "green" side of the Cluster.


This is a view from the other side of the FCM, opposite of the ethernet cable and individual wires. Notice, these wires are grouped. The group on the right is for the Accelerator connector circuit and the group on the left is for the Cruise Control connector circuit.


This is a side shot that shows the blue connector on the left (accelerator circuits) and the black connector (which contains the cruise control circuits). The purple thingy is where the 109 Relay will sit. Notice the black square piece of plastic laying on top of the ECU. Well, that bit will be secured on the end of the FCM half. Also, the position of the ECU will be more to the right than how it's position there in the photo.


In this photo, you can see the relative position of all five of the colored connectors. As you may recall from previous posts, there will be at least three additional relays in the panel (two for the Coolant GPs and the Starter Interlock Relay (safety).


This is another angle


This shot is from the other end. You can see the wiring bundle is pretty large (13 wires total). Also, the big blue wire on the left under the fuse box is from the 109 Relay. It will be be spliced for three connections to the fuse box. Also, the other wires with tags on them will either go to the fuse box or forward to the dash of the vehicle as necessary! Actually, I've got so deep into the wiring aspect that the "tags" are no longer needed for identification............am I getting good or what?

The wire bundle near the center of the above photo ........^^^ is 10.5 feet long.

As stated, this aspect of the project involves 13 circuits that will go up front to the dash, etc. There will be at least 27 more circuits to complete the wiring to the front...........Wow!
 
Last edited:

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Yeah, as RACKARACKA stated, FCM is the abbreviaton for Fan Control Module which is used on the Jetta (and others). One half of the FCM has a 14-pin connector and the other half has 4-pins (I think). I only needed the 14-pin side of the FCM. Anyway, using that connector and the receptical (half of the FCM) allows me to "bunch" wiring and also keep with the "plug and play" concept.

But ..........................does everyone see the mistake I made?

Go back and look at the photos. I should have reversed the 14-pin connector and receptical.. As it is now will not work for Plug and Play. So, I have to "un-solder" all those wires, flip the FCM half and solder the wires from the Black and Blue Connectors to that end of the FCM. Then the 14-pin conncector wires will be soldered to the "bundle of 13" going to the front...................Geezzz...what was I thinking?

Advice to those considering to strip a car for a conversion project, save all you can. Later, some of that "stuff" you cut off may be needed later.

Radio Shack has a good variety of 24, 22, 20, and 18 gauge stranded wire. Most of the need is 0.35mm which is roughly the same as 22 gauage.

So, I plan to dump the Ethernet wire! Also, I'm thinking a 3/4 inch coated flexible conduit will provide adqueate protection to the wires...........(Squeezing in 36 runs will be a challenge)!
 

markward

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2007
Location
Loxahatchee, Florida
TDI
82 Vanagon and 2011 JSW
Not sure why you would go to the trouble to tie in a fan control module on the Vanagon, when the vangon already has a standalone radiator fan circuit tied to the radiator temp and the factory ac if equiped. It is a straight forward circuit that does not depend on the ECU etc. You also have options of thermostat temps and radiator fan switches. I upgraded to the largest rad fan that came in the vanagon which handles 3 speeds. Low comes on with the AC, Medium is controlled by temp or A/C pressure, High is there as a fail safe.

My radiator fan almost never comes on when the air is off. It takes about 8 miles for the engine to even get to temp. I think the size of the Vanagon cooling system has something to do with this. Going down the highway regardless of ambient, the engine temp runs between 188 F and 192 F. If I come off the highway, and am idling in traffic to get to the service station, I might hear the rad fan click on for maybe a minute or less. Just my 2 cents. mark
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Post #407

Not sure why you would go to the trouble to tie in a fan control module on the Vanagon, when the vangon already has a standalone radiator fan circuit tied to the radiator temp and the factory ac if equiped. It is a straight forward circuit that does not depend on the ECU etc. You also have options of thermostat temps and radiator fan switches. I upgraded to the largest rad fan that came in the vanagon which handles 3 speeds. Low comes on with the AC, Medium is controlled by temp or A/C pressure, High is there as a fail safe.

My radiator fan almost never comes on when the air is off. It takes about 8 miles for the engine to even get to temp. I think the size of the Vanagon cooling system has something to do with this. Going down the highway regardless of ambient, the engine temp runs between 188 F and 192 F. If I come off the highway, and am idling in traffic to get to the service station, I might hear the rad fan click on for maybe a minute or less. Just my 2 cents. mark

Mark, go back and re-read Post #407.

I'm not using the FCM to control the Radiator Fan. The explanation is there for the use of the FCM connector/receptacle in my wiring application!
 

markward

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2007
Location
Loxahatchee, Florida
TDI
82 Vanagon and 2011 JSW
So you are using it as a plug connector. The FCM reference was confusing. I did not have all of the bits you have when I did my conversion. I am using universal relay brackets, inline fuses, and weather pack connectors where needed. Keep up the good work. mark

 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Update

Okay, I have basically reversed the use of the 14-pin connector as set-out in the last update (post #407). It was not exactly "as plug and play" as I intended. In fact, I'm not sure what I was thinking at the time. Also, I have dumped the solid ethernet style wire. Mark put me onto something much better.

So, right now I am waiting for the wire to be delivered.

Here are a few photos that will reflect the change(s) I made.

In this first photo you can see the 14-pin connector there in the center. It has all the labels attached identifiying the circuits. You can also see the grey 109 Relay there on the left with the main blue power circuit coming out and to the fuse panel with two branches off it. The main circuit goes to Fuse 32 with 34 and 43 to the left respectively (this is all per the Bentley Schematics, for future reference)


This shot is of the left side of the unit showing the five colored connectors.
From Right-to-Left: Blue has all the circuits for the Accelerator and one circuit that loops around to the 109 Relay base. Black has five of the six Cruise Control circuits and two for the brake switch. Both the Blue and Black Circuits go thru the 14-pin connector which totals exactly 13 wires. #12 has a blank (that was luck).
The Brown, Orange and White connectors contain 5, 2, and 5 respective wires (circuits) that will be used. The starter Interlock Relay is there to the left of the 109 Relay. The two relays for the coolant GPs will be located further to the left.


This is an angle shot from the other end. This gives a good idea of what the fuse panel will look like as it begins to receive the various circuits.


This side shot shows the circuits as they are leaving the fuse panel on the bottom. The big red wire with black stripe straight down from the big blue wire is the circuit to the ECU pin 1&2 via the Brown Connector at T6/4.


This is another end shot of the colored connectors. Here you can see the rectangle hole I cut out in the base support for routing wires. Those connectors all have receptical that will come in from the bottom.


This is the ECU end of the unit. You can see the rectangle hole cut out on that end.


Here is a bottom shot. As you can see, with the "plug and play" concept, this entire "unit" will be easily removed when necessary.


Well, considering I have been battling Type A flu since last Tuesday, I suppose I made a little progress.
 

markward

Veteran Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2007
Location
Loxahatchee, Florida
TDI
82 Vanagon and 2011 JSW
Andy, looks like you got the correct info for contacting Greaseworks. I had some time last Saturday and did not know what to do with it. Decided to redo the plumbing between the turbo and the intercooler. This is phase 4. It eliminated the connector peice and actually got it up out of the way and from the rear view. The vanagon looks more stealth now. Sorry the one picture is blurry.

In this picture you can see the transistion from the turbo to the larger intercooler pipe.


In this picture you can see how it snakes its way up towards the intercooler inlet. Notice the bracket that attaches it to the carrier bar at the engine mount.



I know you are reclocking your turbo, but this may give you some ideas of how to plumb it. mark
 

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Mark, yes, that appears to have improved your Turbo piping.

Although I have everything relating to my Turbo piping and InterCooler ready for installation, it still needs some tweaking. I need to take the InterCooler back to the welder for at least one more support brace.

My intent is to take several items to the welder and drop them off for later. He does contract welding at his shop for his bacon and bread. So, anything I take him stays on back burner until he can get to it.

These are some things I need to do:
1 - modify the left motor mount bracket
2 - add an extra bracing arm to the left motor mount
3 - add a brace to the InterCooler for mounting
4 - add an additional brace to one of the modified AC adapters
5 - fabricate bracket for the brake an clutch switches
6 - install and support flexible condiut for the wiring circuits. This seems to be working well.
7 - signal stalk modification for the cruise control. I have this about 75% finished and hope to post photos later today
8 - install fuel filter bracket
9 - install the coolant pipes
10 - prepare the manifold for the EGT sensor
11 - finish the wiring layout ...........and, tap into the Vanagon's systems that I need to show-up in the TDI Cluster, such as the signal lights.
12 - I have to either pull the engine or drop the tranny to install the flyhweel, clutch, etc............. I guess it will be the tranny!

..........much more to do.

I'm still scratching my head on the Power Steering systems. I have the rack, lines, reservoir, etc. Locating the reservoir has me buffaloed! It needs to be roughly at the same level as the power steering pump!

Lastly, I am not satisfied with the exhaust, especially the location of the CAT. So, I'm thinking that will probably be near the last thing I finish!
 
Last edited:

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
(1/20/20) EDIT: The solder joints onto the ribbon circuits proved to be problematic. So, I cut the strips off at the switch and using much smaller wire soldered them there. Cruise works really well now.

Over the last few days, I have worked on the Jetta/Vanagon Signal/Cruise stick.

The objective is to "install" the Jetta Signal/Cruise Control Stick on the Vanagon Signal Stick.

The wiring to these circuits is the flat copper strip with coating. I had to do all the work using a magnifying glass as I separated the little copper strips for soldering 22 gauge stranded wire to them. The task was to extend the plug connection down below the steering wheel under the dash.

So, I hope I took enough photos to depict the results.

This is a pic of the "guts" of the Jetta Signal Salk with Curise switch parts. You can see the electrical strip and connector off to the left. That strip will be cut off on each end and lengthened with 22 gauge stranded wire.


Another shot of the "guts" of the stick. The white plastic piece is where the switch operates. You can see the copper strips in the little windows. To the left, you can see that the copper strip is coated with black electrical tape (I suppose that is what the stuff is.).


This is a pic of one of the six electrical strip circuits. Here it is being set-up to be coated with solder. The aluminum foil works well for holding, seeing and reflecting heat. I did all the soldering using a magnifying glass. Notice, that the black coating has been scraped off.


This is a pic of all six wires soldered to the electrical strip circuits. I used clear tape to insulate and secure them. Then, where they were separated with the scalpel, I coated them with liquid tape.....very light. Unfortunately, I did not take any photos of the results. Notice the copper part to the left of the black area. Well, that's the part that had the white piece on it with the windows for the switch contacts.


This is a pic of the electrical connector on the opposite end away from the cruise switch. Here you can see that the electrical strip has been cut off. There are two circuits off to the upper left and four there in the center bottom.


This a pic with all the wires soldered onto the electrical connector.


Here you can see the clear tape and black tape that secures them in place. The wires actually get another round of black tape all the way up and on the connector.


This is a shot of the "hollow" Jetta stick JB Welded to the cut-off Vanagon stick. That is the back side.


This a shot from the back side with the "guts" installed. You can see some of the wires and the "rough" JB Weld. The wire bundle (wraped in black tape) goes off to the left and down the assembly. You can also see masking tape securing everything on a temporary basis.


This shot shows the stick as installed from the front side.


The JB Weld will hold and operate the stick without any concern of breaking. I actually cut the Vanagon stick and inserted into the Jetta stick with JB Weld on both peices and used a C-clamp to hold until it cured.

I do plan to finish and polish for acceptable look.......

While I had the switch apart, I cleaned it and added fresh grease. It works really smooth.
 
Last edited:

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Here is a pic of the Jetta stick JB Welded to the Vanagon stick....looking straight on.
 

JoaoT4

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2010
Location
Portugal
TDI
Eurovan Conversion
I used a straightforward solution. I putted 2 swiths on the dasboard :)



João
 
Last edited:

AndyBees

Top Post Dawg
Joined
May 27, 2003
Location
Southeast Kentucky
TDI
Silver 2003 Jetta TDI, Silver 2000 Jetta TDI (sold), '84 Vanagon with '02 ALH engine
Cruise switches on the dash

I used a straightforward solution. I putted 2 swiths on the dasboard :)



João
Actually, I did give that some thought. And, I may do it later.

I really don't like VW's Cruise Switch. It has the "Off and ON" exactly opposite as it should be, which also affect the use of the Resume and/or + for additional speed. The switch activatioon is in the opposite direction for simple finger use!
 
Top