2010 Golf Starts Then Dies

smokeyfulton

Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2018
Location
Ohio, USA
TDI
2010 Golf
Yesterday my 2010 Golf TDI went into limp mode and the glow plug light started blinking but since it happened a couple winters ago and was fine the next day I didnt look into it any further. It was around 20 degrees F and the car had sat for a week without being driven. This morning I went out and started it up to allow it to warm up so I could go to work. It started up an I unplugged my block heater (Frost Heater). I did some chores and came back to my car not running anymore. The check engine light was on but it has been for 3 years due to the EGR valve in the exhaust under the car being stuck open. I tried starting it and it would start and immediately die after it fired. I ran the codes and only got P0475 (Exhaust Pressure Control Valve) which is always on as noted before.

After forum searching I checked the battery while cranking and it remained over 10v as it cranked. I checked the fuel filter and pump, it was getting fuel to the filter. I checked the key to make sure it was communicating correctly to the car and it was syncing correctly. I Unhooked the battery for an hour and reconnected it. After doing so it ran for a second and then died and the glow plug light started blinking again. I ran the code and got P0237 (Turbo/Super Charger Boost Sensor "A" Circuit Low) which was the reason for the glow plug light blinking as it did a couple years ago. I never had a problem starting it with the boost sensor fault before so I can't believe it is causing the issue. After this It would not even fire. I reset the code with the scanner and it would start and die a couple times then the boost code came back and wouldn't fire. I started checking the sensors and pushed the car in the garage.

Tomorrow I will check the MAP sensor to see if it is bad and the Boost sensor as noted in a forum...

Is there anything else that anyone would recommend?

Thanks!
 

jetlagmech

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2009
Location
Toledo, WA
TDI
2010 jetta
Exhaust pressure control valve is not an EGR valve. if I'm remembering correctly It is under the car about where the front passenger seat is. This valve regulates back pressure for the turbo and regens.

This valve has had problems, especially in area's that use salt on roads in winter. There is a VW warranty extension on this valve to 110,000 miles, but your probably past that.

You said it was stuck open, but if it moved and is now stuck closed that could be your problem. Many here, myself included, have pulled out, cleaned, and lubed the bushings on this valve and worked it unstuck. Not hard, a little searching will find one of the many posts on doing it. Just be sure to lube it with a high temp lube. something like WD-40 will burn and coke up and you might end up worse than you are now.
 

Mongler98

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Mar 23, 2011
Location
COLORADO (SE of Denver)
TDI
98 Jetta TDI AHU 1.9L (944 TDI swap in progress) I moved so now i got nothing but an AHU in a garage on a pallet.
This morning I went out and started it up to allow it to warm up so I could go to work. It started up an I unplugged my block heater (Frost Heater). I did some chores and came back to my car not running anymore.
Thanks!
First off, don't let your TDI idle for that long. 30 seconds to 1 minute is all you need to have a warm engine to go drive, you will never get to temp with it idle and your wasting fuel and actually doing a small amount of non normal wear to the turbo that over a long time cna and will cause a failure. THis is debateable about the turbo wear but there is science behind it. You have a block heater so there is no reason to even wait 30 seconds in the cold.

I dont think the time sitting has anything to do with this or any problems other than fuel issues. there is a bacteria that love to grow in diesel now due to the low sulfer content and it will clog up your filter over that long possibly. diesel is only good for about 6 months honestly but i have yet to have an issue for 8 to 10 months sitting. 3 years, yea maybe, check your fuel filter!

EGR has nothing to do with the EPCV.

10v when cranking is fine and indication of a healthy battery.

MAP would not cause this, i dont think!

It wont crank right? yea sounds like a sensor but im not sure, sounds like your on the right path so far. keep us updated.
 

smokeyfulton

Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2018
Location
Ohio, USA
TDI
2010 Golf
So I pulled the EPCV off and cleaned it up tonight so it works... for the 3rd time.

I bought a new battery only since they had it in stock and that was of course not the issue so I will bring in back tomorrow.

The only reason I was going to check the MAP was because somewhere I found that someone had a shorted MAP and the P0237 code.
 
Last edited:

smokeyfulton

Member
Joined
Feb 7, 2018
Location
Ohio, USA
TDI
2010 Golf
I tore a bunch of stuff apart so I could check some sensors and grounds. In doing so I pulled the lower intercooler hose off and found the problem... It was full of ice! It's kinda hard to get air to the engine with ice in the lines!
 

jetlagmech

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 1, 2009
Location
Toledo, WA
TDI
2010 jetta
Its called intercooler icing. lots of info on the site here about it. Ice builds up in the intercooler, thaws, drains down into the hose, then the water gets sucked into a cylinder and hydrolocks the engine. It must be re-freezing before running the car again. Building up until it blocked. Actually a good scenario, no engine damage.

some here, myself included, have drilled a very small hole in the lowest point of the intercooler line to let the moisture drain out while driving with turbo pressure. But may not help you much in an area that doesn't thaw. Drill the hard plastic where the hose attaches. Very small like 1/32 or 3/64 drill bit.

Just last week I put a small screw back in mine till next winter since our hard freezing weather might be done and I don't plan on going back across the mountain pass for a month.
 
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