Mk4 Rear Axle Beam Bushing Replacement Procedure

UhOh

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
TDI
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
That's confusing:confused:

Lemforder doesn't make Cupra R axle bushings that I'm aware of. And everything that I've ever read says that the Cupras are solid (it's the orientation of voids in the others that requires special alignment). I've installed two sets of the Cupras and neither set came with any information, no orientation noted. I did, however, line up the aluminum ears on the bolt sleeve such that they pointed at the magic points on the axle beam.
 

gmenounos

Vendor
Joined
Jun 26, 2003
Location
Watertown, MA, USA
TDI
'99.5 Golf GLS, '01 Jetta GLX Wagon (TDI conversion)
The Lemforder photo was just to show the orientation of the center line with the axle. The first photo shows the center line and the supposed voids. In the interest of science, someone should cut one of the Cupra bushings open to see what it looks like inside.
 

UhOh

Top Post Dawg
Joined
Dec 24, 2014
Location
PNW
TDI
2000 & 2003 Golf GLS (2005 Mercedes E320 CDI)
The Lemforder photo was just to show the orientation of the center line with the axle. The first photo shows the center line and the supposed voids. In the interest of science, someone should cut one of the Cupra bushings open to see what it looks like inside.
Why not use a photo from one of the bushings in question?

From https://www.cascadegerman.com/product/6ll501541-set/

Solid rear axle beam bushing set from the SEAT Ibiza Cupra R. Much stiffer than the OEM bushing, this is a great upgrade to make your car smoother over rough terrain. [emphasis added]
 

Gothmolly

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2005
Location
Providence, RI
TDI
2002 Golf
Bumping thread.
My car is really "stiff" in the back, like when I hit a bump the whole car bounces. In the past, when I've done shocks and replaced the springs, when I undid the bolts the axle wouldn't drop enough for me to get the spring out/in, I had to have someone basically stand on the axle to get enough clearance. It's like the rear axle isn't moving up and down - hence the massive bumps transmitted to the car.

Could this be bad bushings? Car has 230K.
 
Last edited:

Yourbuddysatin

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2016
Location
Pennsylvania
TDI
2013 Jetta tdi
The bushings are probably seized to the bolts. I recommend poly bushings from ecstuning. Easy to install and stiffin up the beam.. The bouncing sounds like bad struts though.
 

Gothmolly

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2005
Location
Providence, RI
TDI
2002 Golf
The bushings are probably seized to the bolts. I recommend poly bushings from ecstuning. Easy to install and stiffin up the beam.. The bouncing sounds like bad struts though.
Thanks - the shocks/struts/springs are about 50k old - and I replaced them because the back was so stuff on bumps.

When you say "seized to the bolts", do you mean that they're supposed to pivot on the bolts themselves, vs. the rubber part of the bushing rotating/deforming within the mounts on impact?
 

Yourbuddysatin

Veteran Member
Joined
Oct 28, 2016
Location
Pennsylvania
TDI
2013 Jetta tdi
The center section of the stock bushings are actually aluminum from what I remember. Then the bolts are coated steel. That is the pivot point.
 

SilverGhost

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Location
Back in So Flo - St Lucie
TDI
'05 Golf - totaled :(, wife's '13 Beetle - buy back, TDIless
Just to clarify a couple things.

Long bolt through trailing arm bushings must be tightened at load level - weight of the car on suspension. Bushings do not pivot around the bolt in service, but will pivot around bolt when loosened. Also notice the bushings are not perfectly parallel to each other - they will bind a little as the trailing arm swings down.

Stiff suspension shouldn't bounce. Or do you mean it bounces like it has no suspension and just the tires are bouncing with bumps? Worn shocks will allow continuous bouncing or pogo'ing. Seized/frozen bolts will limit suspension movement - sounds like this is what you meant?

Also a thought - have the springs been replaced before? Possible that "towing springs" were installed and made rear end stiff? What parts source did you use when you replaced suspension? I have some standard Bilstien shock/struts that have not impressed me. Also possible that the rear have failed or are too stiff for your application?

Just running ideas out.

Jason
 

Gothmolly

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2005
Location
Providence, RI
TDI
2002 Golf
Just to clarify a couple things.

Long bolt through trailing arm bushings must be tightened at load level - weight of the car on suspension. Bushings do not pivot around the bolt in service, but will pivot around bolt when loosened. Also notice the bushings are not perfectly parallel to each other - they will bind a little as the trailing arm swings down.

Stiff suspension shouldn't bounce. Or do you mean it bounces like it has no suspension and just the tires are bouncing with bumps? Worn shocks will allow continuous bouncing or pogo'ing. Seized/frozen bolts will limit suspension movement - sounds like this is what you meant?

Also a thought - have the springs been replaced before? Possible that "towing springs" were installed and made rear end stiff? What parts source did you use when you replaced suspension? I have some standard Bilstien shock/struts that have not impressed me. Also possible that the rear have failed or are too stiff for your application?

Just running ideas out.

Jason
Thanks, I guess mean it's stiff - the car does not continue to bounce up and down, but if you hit a bump when the rear wheels hit it, the car bounces so hard you'll spill coffee. Given that when I undid the shocks the rear axle wouldn't lower enough to get the springs out, it feels like everything's frozen.

IIRC I used standard idparts.com springs for an A4 Golf. Not sure what was in there before, but both springs were broken.
 

SilverGhost

Veteran Member
Joined
Mar 25, 2005
Location
Back in So Flo - St Lucie
TDI
'05 Golf - totaled :(, wife's '13 Beetle - buy back, TDIless
When you "undid" the shocks, did you also loosen the long bolt through the rubber mounts? Will the bolt turn after you remove the nut? If it's seized into the mount then that could be why the arm won't droop enough to replace the springs.

Being up in RI and already having broken springs, I would guess you also need to replace the mounts and bolts. FYI - depending on which version you have, this is a PAIN IN THE ARSE job to get the old ones out. First time, and as rusty as your explanations imply, this would be a job to have a shop do. Or at least the help of someone who has the tools and has done the job before.

I have a rust free Jetta, work as a dealer, and I'm still putting it off because the job sucks!

Jason
 

Gothmolly

Veteran Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2005
Location
Providence, RI
TDI
2002 Golf
When you "undid" the shocks, did you also loosen the long bolt through the rubber mounts? Will the bolt turn after you remove the nut? If it's seized into the mount then that could be why the arm won't droop enough to replace the springs.

Being up in RI and already having broken springs, I would guess you also need to replace the mounts and bolts. FYI - depending on which version you have, this is a PAIN IN THE ARSE job to get the old ones out. First time, and as rusty as your explanations imply, this would be a job to have a shop do. Or at least the help of someone who has the tools and has done the job before.

I have a rust free Jetta, work as a dealer, and I'm still putting it off because the job sucks!

Jason
I never touched the mounts, because I didn't want to get into a project where I don't have a driveway, or spare car, for the inevitable rusted bolt that shears off vs. unbolting.

But thanks all for confirming how the setup is supposed to work - I wont waste money on new shocks or springs! So many things are broken on this car, what's one more? At this point it's 1 blown turbo or clutch replacement away from the scrapyard.
 

PakProtector

Veteran Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2014
Location
AnnArbor, MI
TDI
Mk.4's and the Cummins
Have mentioned this elsewhere, but an Ajax A906 bushing splitter chisel( or a 964 if you have a big air hammer that takes .498 chisels) makes short work of the bushing removal.
cheers,
Douglas
 
Top